Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 51 to 100 of 177

Thread: Fat Bike FAQ's

  1. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    421

    Bureau of Weights & Measures, Fatbike Division

    Rolling Darryl rim, in Surly's limited edition lime green finish: 870g

  2. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    9

    What the heck is it and where can I get one?

    The other day I was riding in Caspers on Westridge and a guy came through the gate from Coto De Caza on a crazy looking bike with tires that were about 12" wide and only about 2/3's the height of a normal tire. they looked like tires off a dune buggy.
    The fat tire bikes I see on the forum have much taller wheels that aren't as wide.
    What the heck is this bike? Where can I get one or at least learn more about them?

  3. #53
    will rant for food
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,637
    Anaerobic, I believe you're thinking of a Hanebrink.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  4. #54
    Rednose/Greenback
    Reputation: apbtlvr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    295
    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    Anaerobic, I believe you're thinking of a Hanebrink.
    Pretty cool

    Gallery - Fortune Hanebrink

  5. #55
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    9
    Yes, that is what it looked like as far as the tires and wheels, but does that mean it was an electric bike? The bike I saw was a rigid frame, no suspension. Do they make a non-electric version?

  6. #56
    will rant for food
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,637
    Couldn't tell ya. I think you want the Fat Bike History thread, or put in an inquiry to the current company.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  7. #57
    CS2
    CS2 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CS2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,733
    Quote Originally Posted by Wildfire View Post
    While it's doubtful that you will see Lance riding one in the Tour de France the things roll pretty darn good on softer surfaces. And surprisingly well on hard surfaces too (but I still swap out with 29er wheels in the summer)
    Isn't the OLD longer on a fat bike rear than standard MTB wheel?
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  8. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    18
    what are pros and cons of aluminum, steel, and titanium frames for fatbikes? Which is best for snow and sand riding?

  9. #59
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Smallfurry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Isn't the OLD longer on a fat bike rear than standard MTB wheel?
    If you have a non-offset frame. You can build a 29er wheelset, with the wider hubs.
    A big boy did it, and ran away.
    62*28'

  10. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    36
    I have a 2011 White Pugs that came standard with Large Marges on Deore hus. Anyone know which front gear style cog we are suppose to use for it? Fixed or Freewheel only?

    I bought a 22t Surly fixed cog but after installing it, realized that there is no reverse thread for a locknut.

  11. #61
    mtbr member
    Reputation: maxus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    95
    Innova Spider:

    80-82 mm on doubletrack
    approx. 96 on sheba.

  12. #62
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by griplimited View Post
    I have a 2011 White Pugs that came standard with Large Marges on Deore hus. Anyone know which front gear style cog we are suppose to use for it? Fixed or Freewheel only?

    I bought a 22t Surly fixed cog but after installing it, realized that there is no reverse thread for a locknut.
    Anyone.

  13. #63
    ebnash
    Guest
    How come no one seems to run Hydraulic Brakes on Fat Bikes???

  14. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Smallfurry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by ebnash View Post
    How come no one seems to run Hydraulic Brakes on Fat Bikes???
    Those using their fatbike as a snowbike. Might be using the bike in temperatures cold enough to thicken the fluid. Hydraulics use two different oils. One of which thickens at a far lower temperature, DOT4. Hope tech use DOT4, and I'm planning on running them. In theory mechanical discs can be effected by ice build-up too. So there's no silver bullet.



    Freezing point for DOT 4 is -75F(-59C)

    Freezing point for mineral oil: -30F(-22C)
    A big boy did it, and ran away.
    62*28'

  15. #65
    A Surly Maverick
    Reputation: Dr Feelygood !'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2,573
    I killed a pair of Hayes brakes due to beach riding, the pistons seized solid

    'Generally' cable discs are less prone to these problems, but YMMV
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  16. #66
    Chronic Underachiever
    Reputation: MauricioB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    569
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Feelygood ! View Post
    I killed a pair of Hayes brakes due to beach riding, the pistons seized solid
    I had a similar experience last winter with the pistons on my Hayes MAG XC not wanting to retract after being exposed to road salt. I've since rebuilt them and put them on a different (non-winter) bike and they're back to their old bombproof selves.

    Trying out some BB5 calipers on the snow bike this year...

  17. #67
    locked - time out
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    165
    Neither system is completely foolproof in all conditions. I've used both and returned to BB7's for ease of adjustment. I'd rather use a 60/wheel brake in freeze/thaw/salt/ice/sand than trash a pretty set of expensive hydros.

    The upside with mechanical brakes is trail side service if/when something happens.

    Sure, you may have to pull the cable and warm up over your stove or with a lighter (you do have an E kit with you don't you?) to remove ice. You can also slide the warm cable into the housing to melt any buildup and then blow out the water.

    Also, you can find brake cables and housing almost anywhere if you absolutely need to replace.

  18. #68
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    542
    Quote Originally Posted by ebnash View Post
    How come no one seems to run Hydraulic Brakes on Fat Bikes???
    I ran some old Hayes hydraulics last year as I had them kicking around and they had an extra long Goodridge hose on the rear brake, which was needed for my Mukluk due to the long run for the rear brake. I was riding in snow and temps down as low as -30. No issues with the fluid, though the front piston seized, I suspect from road salt from carrying the bike on a roof rack.

    This year I have installed some Formula K18's, had DOT5 put in them and installed Goodridge lines again. They are bomber so far but we've been riding is temps between zero and +10 degrees C so far. I'll also be transporting the bike inside my vehicle this year as well as I found the road salt from road spray did cause some corrosion inside my shifters which I think caused an early death for the first one.

  19. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    421

    Holiday Fat

    Larry 3.8 with white "120 tpi" sidewall markings- 1630g (+200g from an earlier Larry 3.8/120)

    three Surly 26x3.0-4.0" inner tubes, 1.3mm thickness- 450/450/470g

  20. #70
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3,343
    A friend of mine rides his Pugsley year round. He street sessions, trail rides and even occasionally rolls thru the skate park. I rode his Pug and found it to be a problem...Now I highly desire one!
    He says the Pug being a single speed makes you strong fast.

  21. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Smallfurry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    413
    Whats the external diameter of a BFL on a 80mm rim?

    Calcs say its approaching 800mm. But that doesnt sound right.
    A big boy did it, and ran away.
    62*28'

  22. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    221

    Frame / Pack Pump

    I'm looking for a frame / pack pump to carry with me. Any suggestions? The one I've always used for my mtb doesn't work to well with the Larry's and Nate's

  23. #73
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3,343
    Quote Originally Posted by bobkorn View Post
    I'm looking for a frame / pack pump to carry with me. Any suggestions? The one I've always used for my mtb doesn't work to well with the Larry's and Nate's
    Don't know if this will help, but I use a Topeak Mtn Morph on 2.4 & 2.7.
    I realize they are nothing like Larry's or Nate's tho' you are going low pressure!

    BTI | products matching "pump" (page 9)

    Hope this helps!

  24. #74
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    221
    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Don't know if this will help, but I use a Topeak Mtn Morph on 2.4 & 2.7.
    I realize they are nothing like Larry's or Nate's tho' you are going low pressure!


    Hope this helps!
    THANKS! Just ordered one.

  25. #75
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3,343
    No worries, I hope it serves you well. I have had mine several years now and still going strong.
    I run 2.7 at 18-28 psi. Its nice to be a beanpole.

    Btw how's the fatbike ride?

  26. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    221
    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    No worries, I hope it serves you well. I have had mine several years now and still going strong.
    I run 2.7 at 18-28 psi. Its nice to be a beanpole.

    Btw how's the fatbike ride?
    It's a stock Pugsley and it's the best thing ever! I've been riding a 22 lb Ted Wojcik hard tail for 16 years and I am faster and climb just as well on the Pugsley. Can't say enough good things about it. I'd say once you go FAT, you'll never go back.

  27. #77
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3,343
    Sweet. I am torn between a Mukluk & a Pug. The other thing is sorting out the financial aspect.
    Lbs (Gear Exchane) aka the Soul Shop has both.
    Nothing like sorting it out!

    Tahnks

  28. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    221
    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Sweet. I am torn between a Mukluk & a Pug. The other thing is sorting out the financial aspect.
    Lbs (Gear Exchane) aka the Soul Shop has both.
    Nothing like sorting it out!

    Tahnks
    From what I've read, most feel the Pug handles more like a mtb, I agree and I think it looks better too. As they say about the money, "you're already a thousand over budget, so what's the big deal."

  29. #79
    Rippin da fAt
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    3,343
    So much for hitting the budget!
    I am considering micro drive single speed. I need to test ride on single track as well as urban.
    I will go to the snow insurance agency and buy a policy before I test ride. Er uh wash my vehicle.
    Only then will we get some snow!

  30. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    16
    Hi all, read a lot around here but this is first post, and can't post a new thread, so may be asking a few silly question.
    Is there a horizontal dropout 170 fat bike frame out there?
    I just had a brainwave if there was, I could symmetric lace a 100mm rim to a centred (custom spacers) 135 alfine 8 IGH centering.
    Would this give equal spoke tension, the only potential benefit? (ignoring 29er use potential)
    If there's benefit in it, and no frame like that, I'm thinking a 9zero7 170 aluminium frame with QR dropouts cut and shut with custom horiztonal dropouts.
    My goal is a relatively simple/resilient fat bike on the outside, obstacle protection of a single speed, and road/trail speed range benefit of an internal geared hub.
    I'm also unsure about the right frame size (S) that matches my other bikes in measurements, or the bar pushing walking bike in deep sand testicle room of the XS standover height with extra 1.3" (135mm).

  31. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation: druidh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    673
    For a 170mm frame you'd need to replace the Alfine axle

    What's wrong with the 135mm frame?

  32. #82
    will rant for food
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    3,637
    For a 170mm + Alfine setup - which hasn't been done yet - you'd also need some additional mechanical solution for the chain line, which is a very skinny 47mm with cog flipped outward.

    Hey so how does this thread get managed anyway? I'm guilty of this too, but the relevance of FAQ-quality questions has really gone downhill over the length of it.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  33. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    16

    cheap entry IGH options available now

    Thanks, axle length obviously critical for the IGH to fit, doh!
    170 only reason/benefit seems to be idealistic symmetry for spoke life beating wheels in all terrain, and 29er swaps.
    For horizontal dropout and IGH, forgetting 29ers, I've since looked wider than 9zero7 and Fatback to find the heavier 26x4" budget entry level fat sand bikes more from beach cruiser approach than MTB, with horizontal dropouts, IGH.

    Origin8 has a Nuvinci hub offering (not my pref), related brand Sun Spider with beach cruiser styling Sturmey Archer kickback coaster brake single speed rear hub both same 4" Deton8er tyres. My pick for the apparent longer wheelbase and Nexus/Alfine options is the Fat Sand Bikes by TommiSea.
    Sun Spider seems best bang for buck cheap entry, $700 to try a fat bike, and a couple of ratios. I've come off a single speed commuter that I wanted that hub in, before the bike was decommissioned, so am a fan all over.
    Fat Sand Bikes have fixed and single speed versions with Fixi/Cruiser levels of budget entry appointments (or lack of) front brakes optional. They do a $3k Titanium Alfine 11 version too.
    Heavier and lower spec than the Surly/Salsa alternative front runners like Fatback and 9zero7.

    This is all in other threads but hopefully a digest in this reply is a helpful summary to cheap entry "IGH now off the shelf" folks. Anyone know other options?

  34. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    4
    This may be a silly question however I can't find the answer... Is it possible to use a standard mountain bike frame to build a fat tire bike? If not then what do I need to do to build this awesome creation... I'm new to the fat bike community. The plan is for a fully rigid fat bike. Thanks!

  35. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    6,209
    Quote Originally Posted by Twitchbone View Post
    ... Is it possible to use a standard mountain bike frame to build a fat tire bike?...
    No. There is not enough width or height in a standard frame for a tyre that may be between 88mmm - 110mmm.

    You could go half-fat though. This is done by putting a fat front fork and fat wheel on a standard bike. This is better done to a 29er frame because it does not change the geometry so much (but that depends on your frame).

    There's been a lot of half-fat builds on this forum, so a search may give you a few different ideas.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  36. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    4
    Thanks velobike... I figured it had to be a bigger frame just wasn't sure...

  37. #87
    Has been wantabe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    10
    What gearing do you run on a single speed fat bike and what kind of terrain do you use it on? I want a SS fat bike but need info on gearing.

    richardh

  38. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drofluf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    369
    Quote Originally Posted by rich-hud View Post
    What gearing do you run on a single speed fat bike and what kind of terrain do you use it on? I want a SS fat bike but need info on gearing.

    richardh
    I asked that very question here earlier this week
    If you need me I'll be at the bar

  39. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    6,209
    Seeing as this is the FAQ, I'll put my opinion in here as well.

    If you are already running a SS29er and will be riding the same tracks, you can use the same gearing if you are on the Larry or Endo. If you put Nates on, then you'll feel the extra grip in the form of resistance so a lower gear may be necessary, but you'll love them on soft stuff. I can't speak for the HDs because I haven't got any yet.

    If you put Floyds on, then you can raise your gearing IMO almost to where you'd have it on a SS cyclocross bike - with the same limitations on grip as the cx bike - but with more comfort and better ability to steamroller over rocks. (Floyds + fatbike = replacement for what I use my cx bike for).

    If you drop your tyre pressures below norm then again lower ratios help.

    However, the big advantage of fat tyres is the ability to go into places you couldn't ride with your normal bikes. That equals lower gearing, and often radically lower. Once you're riding like that, the next step is the BFLs for more flotation/steamroller effect and venturing into even odder places, and you are looking at crawler type ratios.

    When you have very low gearing then you have a problem with the rest of your riding, eg when you're not on the soft stuff your legs will be spinning like mad. Most of us can maintain a decent hardpack speed on 32/18, but it's difficult on 22/22, and yes, you'll want that gear if you exploit your fatty properly.

    Like many dedicated SSers I have found that the simplest thing is to fit a hub gear for a bike that is going to be used for bog bashing.

    There are options though.

    I would still prefer to be riding a SS, one less cable, and less to go wrong, so at the moment I'm trying to make a dinglespeed.

    Basically 2 sets of SS ratios, no gear change mechanism (other than a latex glove ), and when a different ratio is needed, drop the wheel and manually switch them over.

    I will have a 32/22 ratio, and a 22/32 ratio which means no chain length differences. The 22/32 is for crawler stuff and won't see much use mileage wise, but when there's bog, I'll love it. For those new to the concept, you only use the cogs directly in line with each other, you don't be run from the 32 front to the 32 rear for example - that would need a different chain length. It may sound like a lot of hassle, but it preserves the simplicity and reliability of a single speed transmission. I'll post mine up when it's done - I'm first trying to bodge a way to use a proper 32 tooth chainring on the rear rather than the flimsy derailleur types.

    Something like a SRAM Torpedo hub would be an ideal way to do this so the lower ratio could be optionally be ridden fixed for greater control (not possible at the moment because no brake mounts and narrow OLD).

    The ultimate is probably a tringlespeed, ie 3 on the front, 3 on the rear 38/32/22 going to 16/22/32.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  40. #90
    Has been wantabe
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    10
    Thanks for the info.
    richardh

  41. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    70
    Here's another newb Q:

    What is the max tire pressure for the BFL?

    Has anyone been trying to get a real high average speed on the Moonlander (or other fat bike) on flat tarmac/terrain? Is an average speed of say 17/18 mph (28km/u) possible on a 19 mile (30 km) flat Tarmac loop for a trained cyclist (medium performer not hotshot)
    Am wondering what is possible with this machine

    Thanks,

    Erik.

  42. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    16
    I'd think no problem for you Erik. I managed ~27kph cruise before pedestrian obstacles for a short 5km trip home from beach yesterday on my first test ride of my Fat Sand Bike yesterday. Successful ride along the beach with low pressure, still like uphill work if no choice, the erroneous rear Presta valve meant I could only get back to max 40psi in front tyre of the 4" Kenda from local fuel station. Lots of hand./foot pumping to go from near flat for the sand, to a couple hundred pumps later 10psi in the rear.

    re: Gearing, it has a Nexus8 hub, great all round, has

  43. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by deepfraught View Post
    I'd think no problem for you Erik. I managed ~27kph cruise before pedestrian obstacles for a short 5km trip home from beach yesterday on my first test ride of my Fat Sand Bike yesterday. Successful ride along the beach with low pressure, still like uphill work if no choice, the erroneous rear Presta valve meant I could only get back to max 40psi in front tyre of the 4" Kenda from local fuel station. Lots of hand./foot pumping to go from near flat for the sand, to a couple hundred pumps later 10psi in the rear.

    re: Gearing, it has a Nexus8 hub, great all round, has
    Thanks!!

    Anyone know if Big Fat Larry's are also capable of handling 40psi? Guess inflating the tires to this amount of pressure by hand is a workout all of it's own

    Others who are willing to share experiences with maximum and/or average speeds on their fat bikes on flat tarmac or paved roads??

  44. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    16
    I read some research on weight and tri/track cycle times to be very low percentage differences when hills and braking/accelerations were a minimum. <4% I recall... but point is it's not major.
    So if you can sustain 35kph+ on that flat tarmac 30km circuit with your lightest road race bike, take off 10% and you're still above the 28kph target average. You'll be in the ball park in any case. On a ride the greater time isn't the 1 or 2kph avg. speed difference from conditions or fitness, but all the ordinary logistical things you do either side of it. Good or bad routine can make more difference.

    About pressure, I found anything above 20psi seems to have a similar contact patch and not change radically until it's halved once and twice again. Chronic masturbation disorder would do well as training for in field inflating a fat bike to be able to avoid passing out from fatigue before reaching the climax road tyre pressure =D
    I'll be looking for a full size floor pump with folding handle/feet. The MTB single foot and handle folder has been large for road/MTB so far, pumping against ground, with hose, but just not enough volume in fat bike world. Takes about 200 pumps on the full size to get from near flat for sand to 40psi. 0-20psi the most, and 20-40psi not as much it seems.

  45. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    463
    Craft, I pump larry's up to 3 bar for road only trips, is on a 47 mm rim, until 2 bar you notice a big difference in rolling resistance, between 2 and 3 bar the difference is rather small.
    30 km/h on flat works but you take much more wind and accelerating costs more energy!
    Me hartrate is 10 beats higher whithout to much wind!

  46. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by Nothing's impossible View Post
    Craft, I pump larry's up to 3 bar for road only trips, is on a 47 mm rim, until 2 bar you notice a big difference in rolling resistance, between 2 and 3 bar the difference is rather small.
    30 km/h on flat works but you take much more wind and accelerating costs more energy!
    Me hartrate is 10 beats higher whithout to much wind!
    Thanks Much

    Since I can't pm you (post count is not enough here's my reply in Dutch

    Hallo N I,

    Bedankt voor je reply op het MTBR forum!!

    Lijkt me best leuk om op een Fatbike straks met 3 bar in de banden te kijken hoe het gaat met (gemiddelde) snelheid.

    Gisteren is de fatbike besteld en nu 4 wkn wachten....het wordt een Surly Moonlander.

    Ik heb sinds ik geïnteresseerd ben geraakt in een fatbike al enkele filmpjes van je gezien op Youtube en moet zeggen Respect met hoofdletter R. Prachtig hoe je met jouw Sandman de wielersport bedrijft! Een mooie inspiratie voor de hartpatiënt die ik ben ;-)

    Bedankt!

    Erik.

  47. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    463
    Bedankt, trouwens, ik spreek over een larry op een 47 mm velg, een big fat larry op een 80 mm heeft mogelijk helemaal geen 3 bar nodig!

  48. #98
    Ock
    Ock is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1

    Best Fat Bike Wheels For Heavy Riders...?

    Hello Everyone! My name is Ock and I am a very heavy rider. I am 5'11", and 290lbs . In the past I rode dual suspension Cannondales before the heavy weight. My last bike was a Kona Hoss which was made for heavy riders. When I spotted FatBikes online I loved them instantly. i am having one custom made for me. Hope you can help me choose the right wheels and tires for my weight and application.
    First, I really want wheels that are silver / stainless steel color / chrome look. Any recommendations for this?
    Second, I love the drilled look but the concern is my weight. Would undrilled be better for my weight?
    Third, which wheels would work best for a heavy rider. I am looking at Daryls and LArge Marge.
    Lastly, tires. The bike will be used on rocky dirt trails. Lots of sharp rocks and sharp vegetation. Im thinking Nate because of tread, and use goo. Origin8 Devastator is a choice due to its kevlar and its beefier.
    SO GUYS let me know what you think... The best wheels and tires for my specs and application.
    If you have any commments on componants for heavy riders on a fat bike please share.
    Thanks So Much! I will share whats created!
    OCK

  49. #99
    A Surly Maverick
    Reputation: Dr Feelygood !'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2,573
    Quote Originally Posted by Ock View Post
    Hello Everyone! My name is Ock and I am a very heavy rider. I am 5'11", and 290lbs . In the past I rode dual suspension Cannondales before the heavy weight. My last bike was a Kona Hoss which was made for heavy riders. When I spotted FatBikes online I loved them instantly. i am having one custom made for me. Hope you can help me choose the right wheels and tires for my weight and application.
    First, I really want wheels that are silver / stainless steel color / chrome look. Any recommendations for this?
    Second, I love the drilled look but the concern is my weight. Would undrilled be better for my weight?
    Third, which wheels would work best for a heavy rider. I am looking at Daryls and LArge Marge.
    Lastly, tires. The bike will be used on rocky dirt trails. Lots of sharp rocks and sharp vegetation. Im thinking Nate because of tread, and use goo. Origin8 Devastator is a choice due to its kevlar and its beefier.
    SO GUYS let me know what you think... The best wheels and tires for my specs and application.
    If you have any commments on componants for heavy riders on a fat bike please share.
    Thanks So Much! I will share whats created!
    OCK

    Hi Ock and Welcome

    I'm 265lbs so not too far south of you.

    If you are going to use the bike for rocky dirt trails I would recommend UNDRILLED Large Marges. They are totally bombproof.

    If you want the silver look, just have the black anodizing stripped before you have the wheels built.

    I have no experience of the Devist8er, but Nate is a very impressive tyre in both volume and grip

    Cheers,
    Dr FG
    A Fatback'd Lefty for who life IS a Beach

  50. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Weinerts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    282

    Left Turn

    Folks,

    I built a Jabberwockey with a fat front and I noticed that it likes to turn left. If I take my hands off of the bars... it will just roll to the left..

    No clue.. I have been around bikes forever, but this is the first Fat anything... is this normal for the Larry?

    Steve
    (I will post image later)
    My bike is heavier than yours - it does not have Carbon or Titanium parts - I love it!

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •