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  1. #1
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    E13, Surly MWOD, or Race Face Turbine for Mukluk 2??

    I'm buying my first fat bike, a Salsa Mukluk 2, and am having a hard time choosing between the 3 cranksets that my LBS offers for the build. They offer the E13, Surly MWOD, and Race Face Turbine all as options for no difference in price. Any Muk (or any fatbike) riders have a preference, or good/bad experience with these 3 options to share?? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    You have to ask yourself what is the largest rim/tire combo you want to be able to run.

  3. #3
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    The rim/tire combo I'm purchasing is the Surly Rolling Darryl and Surly Nate tires. For now, I'm going to assume this is the combo I will be using for quite some time.

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    Chilly H20: Pm sent Those nates are a wide tire You will need the widest chainline you can get The mukluk factory build comes with the E13 crankset and nate tires but you cant buy the crankset by itself only available on built bikes. The Raceface doesnt have enough either unless you want to remove a gear in the rear or have slight chain rub. I guess that leaves the MWOD.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatracer View Post
    Chilly H20: Pm sent Those nates are a wide tire You will need the widest chainline you can get The mukluk factory build comes with the E13 crankset and nate tires but you cant buy the crankset by itself only available on built bikes. The Raceface doesnt have enough either unless you want to remove a gear in the rear or have slight chain rub. I guess that leaves the MWOD.
    What makes you think the raceface doesn't have enough? I believe it has the same chain line as the e.13, 67.5.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatracer View Post
    Chilly H20: Pm sent Those nates are a wide tire You will need the widest chainline you can get The mukluk factory build comes with the E13 crankset and nate tires but you cant buy the crankset by itself only available on built bikes. The Raceface doesnt have enough either unless you want to remove a gear in the rear or have slight chain rub. I guess that leaves the MWOD.
    The build kit I'm buying from my LBS allows me to choose the E13. The guy who is selling me the bike rides a race face crankset with Nate tires. So, let's say they all fit, and are all available to me, do you have a preference between the 3.

  7. #7
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    race face FTW

  8. #8
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    I had nothing but problem with e.13 and now have the new RaceFace Turbines.

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    Quote Originally Posted by woody_8_5 View Post
    I had nothing but problem with e.13 and now have the new RaceFace Turbines.
    What kind of problems?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilly H2O View Post
    What kind of problems?
    I have a new set of PW bearings on order to replace the failing original set in my E -13 BB. They allow water to penetrate the bottom shell and contaminate the bearings. I have been pulling them apart and greasing them on a regular basis. I also have a bad creaking coming from the bottom bracket, which I think is caused from a loose fit on the crank spindle and the BB bearing inner race. The spindle is actually beginning to show signs of wear at the point of contact with the bearings. I'm really hoping the PW bearings have a better fit.
    2010 Intense Spider 2
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  11. #11
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    I had nothing but problems with last years e.13 crank set. BB issues that was fixed by putting in a Enduro BB and after fixing the BB problem a few months later the non drive side crank arm started to develop play on the spindle. I sent the crank set back to e.13 for warranty replacement and they sent a new crank set back after inspection, good customer service with e.13. I ended up selling the new e.13 cranks and this ended up paying for the new Turbines. I had a chance to look at the new e.13 double crank set out of this years Muk2 and was not impressed, especially with the plastic bearing pre load system. The RaceFace cranks look very solid and well made so it will be interesting to see how they hold up compared to the experiences I had with e.13.

  12. #12
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    Turbines are great. Not sure on fit. Good to know the chain line number posted above. Anyone got info on the fatback FSA chain line? Not in your list, but they claim an extra 2.5mm. Wondering where that puts them.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Widget View Post
    Turbines are great. Not sure on fit. Good to know the chain line number posted above. Anyone got info on the fatback FSA chain line? Not in your list, but they claim an extra 2.5mm. Wondering where that puts them.
    2.5 mm wider chainline (claimed) , 15mm wider Q-factor.

  14. #14
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    FWIW, the RaceFace Atlas/RD/Nate combination works fine on my 907. I can't see why it wouldn't also work on a Mukluk.

  15. #15
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    I have a 2012 907 and Used the Raceface Ride crank along with Nates and the chain contacted the tire ever so slightly. I contacted Raceface and spoke directly to an engineer and the widest chainline they make is 67mm +-
    I also contacted e13 knowing the muk 2 comes with there crank and Nates (publicized no chain contact) and that bike uses the same width rear hub as 907 They will not sell you that exact crankset unless you buy a built muk 2 it is a custom build.
    I have converted to Clownshoes and BFLs and now installing a surly MWOD.

    I am far from a bike expert just passing along the research I have done

  16. #16
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    I was wondering if the OP is being offered the two or three ring e-thirteen crankset by their shop. I have had a relatively good experience with the three ring version. I think I have the newer e13 bearings. I revised the original spacer setup to one aluminum NDS an two aluminum DS. I drilled a drain hole in the bottom of the BB shell. I added an additional (worked for me, YMMV) thin plastic BB30 plastic preload "washer" to take up the side to side crank arm wiggle. I changed chain rings to used Shimano XT 9-spd. The stock chainring set seemed to wear fast and a chipped tooth, sealed the set's fate. No chain suck now with this setup.

    That setup has been working great since August. Before that, I had what I chalk up to mechanic error (me), the NDS crank came loose, not enough torque. Aluminum chainring bolts came loose. That was due to not checking the original setup from the LBS. I swapped out to blue loctite Aluminum hex head bolts, as the originals were torx. If I have trouble again, I will go stainless steel like I have to use on my SS.

    As for tire rub, there is some with Hüsker Dü's on the Rolling Darryl.

  17. #17
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    Thanks for sharing your experiences and recommendations guys!! Definitely helped to make my decision easier. After conferring w you guys, my LBS, and reading tons of threads, I've decided to go with a Race Face Turbine, as the E13 doesn't seem as durable as I'd like, and the MWOD seems to be way heavier than I will need if I'm just running a 4" tire. Once I decided on the Turbine, my LBS informed me that they only have it in a color that really wouldn't look good at all, so I guess I'll just choose a different RF crank. Any other RF crank recs?

    I'm also thinking about switching the wheels/tires from Darryl/Nate to Marge Lite. Any of you guys have experience with running this tire combo?? It appears as if it would save 3/4 lb. on just the rims alone. Any reason not to do this? Would I be compromising any performance/float by doing this. Thanks in advance!

  18. #18
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    Thanks again!!

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilly H2O View Post
    Once I decided on the Turbine, my LBS informed me that they only have it in a color that really wouldn't look good at all, so I guess I'll just choose a different RF crank. Any other RF crank recs?
    the Atlas

    I'm also thinking about switching the wheels/tires from Darryl/Nate to Marge Lite. Any of you guys have experience with running this tire combo?? It appears as if it would save 3/4 lb. on just the rims alone. Any reason not to do this? Would I be compromising any performance/float by doing this. Thanks in advance!
    the ML's are highly sought after for weight reduction over most others and no it will not effect the perf or float factor.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilly H2O View Post
    I'm also thinking about switching the wheels/tires from Darryl/Nate to Marge Lite. Any of you guys have experience with running this tire combo?? It appears as if it would save 3/4 lb. on just the rims alone. Any reason not to do this? Would I be compromising any performance/float by doing this. Thanks in advance!
    If you drill out an undrilled set of Darryls with 1.5" holes the weight per rim comes in at about 750 grams so not much more than Marge Lites at ( I think) 690 ish. Also you will lose some float going from an 80mm rim to a 65mm rim. That may or may not be a big deal depending on what your riding conditions are.
    Latitude 61

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Also you will lose some float going from an 80mm rim to a 65mm rim. That may or may not be a big deal depending on what your riding conditions are.
    akkkk me forgot about the diff, would it be noticable using the same tire on each?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    If you drill out an undrilled set of Darryls with 1.5" holes the weight per rim comes in at about 750 grams so not much more than Marge Lites at ( I think) 690 ish. Also you will lose some float going from an 80mm rim to a 65mm rim. That may or may not be a big deal depending on what your riding conditions are.
    The Rolling Darryls I'm looking at are drilled have a published weight of 860g.
    The Marge Lites have a published weight of 690.
    That's a total weight savings of 340g, or 3/4 of a pound for both rims.

    Is losing the float worth the weight savings?? That seems like a lot of rotational weight to save. Significant float loss??

    I live in Maine and plan on using it for all types of winter riding, as well as in the shoulder seasons when it's too sloppy for my 29er. Thanks!!

  24. #24
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    Chilly, I pm'ed you back but it's not showing in my sent folder. If you didn't get it just email me.
    Last edited by GTR2ebike; 12-13-2012 at 03:10 PM.

  25. #25
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    Passing on a data point on the raceface turbine crank. I have dillingers, rolling Darryls and a SRAM 10 speed setup on a fatback and still have 5mm of clearance between the tire and the chain. I believe it could be adjusted for more clearance but I'm not 100% sure on that.

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