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  1. #1
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    E13 snow crank concern

    I'm thinking about buying a E13 crank (double with bashguard) but with many people having chainrub issues I'm hesisant.I have a stock Mukluck 3(Endomorph 3.7,Rolling Daryl rims,34/11 shimano cassette).Would it be possible to use the triple without bashgaurd or will this make smooth operation questionable?

  2. #2
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    It comes stock on a Muk2.....and there are no problems ( unless you install it incorrectly)

  3. #3
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    Ditto. No issues with the E-13 cranks. The Muk 3s have a Truvativ Hussfelt that some have had issues with chain line on.

  4. #4
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    Thanks.

  5. #5
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    For what it's worth, I have issues on a Mukluk 2 with an e13 crank when in the little chainring and the upper end of the cassette when using the typical 2:1 spacer setup. I can go to a 3:0 spacer setup and eliminate the rub, but then I get a slight ticking sound from the cup when pedaling hard.

    I do not believe this to be a crankset issue, but just simply an issue with the way a fatbike fits together and compromises that must be made to fit parts around the large tire.

  6. #6
    Nuts
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    If you ever decide to go to a BFL I am very impressed with the Fatback crank and its a lot cheaper to boot.
    And I love beer!!

  7. #7
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    E-13 comes stock with a triple on the Mukluk 2. That's what I run.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrkgstiff View Post
    Can you add a third chainring in place of the bashguard as an option?
    On the Fatback Crank yes you could but it would be out there a ways.
    And I love beer!!

  9. #9
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    Can you add a third chainring in place of the bashguard as an option?

  10. #10
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    With an Sram chain I have chainsuck to (brandnew drivetrain).
    I will change to a stiffer chain, (shimano) this will lessen the problem i guess!

  11. #11
    Fat!Drunk!Slow!
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    If you want to run the e.13 setup proper with 2x1 spacing of cup spacers, and don't want rub using Nates or BFLs, the e.13 is not for you. Go with the Surly MWOD or Fatback FSA cranksets which have more clearance and were designed around a 4.7" tire, not 3-7-4" like the e.13, etc.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JordyB View Post
    If you want to run the e.13 setup proper with 2x1 spacing of cup spacers, and don't want rub using Nates or BFLs, the e.13 is not for you. Go with the Surly MWOD or Fatback FSA cranksets which have more clearance and were designed around a 4.7" tire, not 3-7-4" like the e.13, etc.
    out of curiosity, how long are the spindles in the E13 and FSA cranksets?

  13. #13
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    I didn't have any rub issues with Nate's and my e.13 (although, it was REALLY close.) You shouldn't have any trouble at all with an Endo and e.13.

  14. #14
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    JordyB,

    What is the difference in chain line between the MWOD with Pug spindle and the Fatback FSA?

    They mention on the Fatback site:
    2.5 mm wider chain-line compared to similar 100mm cranksets gaining aditional chain-tire clearance
    I wonder which crankset they are referring to, e.13?

    Ultimately, I want to lose as few cogs as possible on a CS/BFL setup with the external BB and a no-dish 170.

  15. #15
    Fat!Drunk!Slow!
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29Again View Post
    JordyB,

    What is the difference in chain line between the MWOD with Pug spindle and the Fatback FSA?

    They mention on the Fatback site:

    I wonder which crankset they are referring to, e.13?

    Ultimately, I want to lose as few cogs as possible on a CS/BFL setup with the external BB and a no-dish 170.
    They are refering to the Fatback FSA crankset having 2.5mm more. I dont know the diff between the MWOD and Fatback FSA.

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