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  1. #1
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    e13 Bottom Brackets, what's the verdict

    For discussion of the e13 Bottom Bracket options:

    greetings all. I have a set of the e13 fatbike cranks with the original BB. I believe it is gen1 before they went to angular bearings. BB has developed an issue (one side the bearings are feeling indexed), so it is time to replace.

    For those who have experience, what has your results been with the newer BB? Is the "plus" version with TiNi races worth the price hike? I am also aware of the enduro bb30 option, but at double the price, I want to be pretty convinced that the newer e13 won't fit the bill.

    This is on a fatbike that gets ridden as such, summer and real winter (Minnesota), so dirt, dust, snow, through the creek, etc.

  2. #2
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    I just replaced my original e13 bearings as well.

    I bought the enduro, bearings only. Not the entire new BB. I used a long thin punch with a *sharp flat edge* & tapped out original bearings from the e13 cups, and pressed in the enduro back into the e13 cups.
    Easy, 5 minute job once everything is apart.

    The enduro have a nice seal. I only have a few months on them but so far so good. Nice option at around $26 I think and you don;t have to buy the proprietary enduro tool for their cups.

    I also ride mine year-round, my only bike.
    Riding.....

  3. #3
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    Just replaced my 2 year old e13 BB with the TiNi version a few months ago. No problems so far. I had no real issues with the original 1st gen bearings either. They were just starting to show a little play and weren't as smooth as new, and I was replacing the rings, so I decided to do 'em up. I figured an extra $20 for better seals plus the other new features was worth a try. Setting up the preload properly is probably the most important thing you can do for these cranks.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    Setting up the preload properly is probably the most important thing you can do for these cranks.
    Very true.
    Riding.....

  5. #5
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    I'm going into my 3rd season with them on my Mukluk.
    I got the 2012 Muk2 thru HucknRoll.
    When I took it out of the box.....the crank was tough to spin.
    I took it apart and lubed everything and tightened/ preloaded it correctly.
    Spun nice from there.
    I ride the bike in the summer when it's rainy....and lots of winter miles.
    I used silicon around the seatpost to keep water out.
    I also drilled a small drain hole in the b/b shell....which drips a little water out on real wet days or big temp changes from condensation.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I just replaced my original e13 bearings as well.

    I bought the enduro, bearings only. Not the entire new BB. I used a long thin punch with a *sharp flat edge* & tapped out original bearings from the e13 cups, and pressed in the enduro back into the e13 cups.
    Easy, 5 minute job once everything is apart.

    The enduro have a nice seal. I only have a few months on them but so far so good. Nice option at around $26 I think and you don;t have to buy the proprietary enduro tool for their cups.

    I also ride mine year-round, my only bike.

    Just an update, the enduro bearings in my E13 cups are performing perfectly. They spin so smoothly, and water is not getting in like the stock E13 ones....
    Riding.....

  7. #7
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    If it were me I would pony up for Phil Wood bearings. I have them in two road bikes with thousands of miles on them. (I run King in my Mtb) If you want a bb that will be one you can forget about...Phil. Before running Phil Wood I would go through 2 BB's a year. I don't know the bearing number, but with a little reasearch you could figure it out since E13 uses a 30mm spindle.

  8. #8
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    The stock non-angular contact bearings in my original bb lasted 1 year before the drive side completely froze. They had really terrible seals, I think, and I was riding in a lot road-salted areas. I replaced just the bearings this spring, with enduro ceramics - super smooth now that they are broken in. We shall see how well they'll do in salty, wet conditions this winter.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I just replaced my original e13 bearings as well.

    I bought the enduro, bearings only. Not the entire new BB. I used a long thin punch with a *sharp flat edge* & tapped out original bearings from the e13 cups, and pressed in the enduro back into the e13 cups.
    Easy, 5 minute job once everything is apart.

    The enduro have a nice seal. I only have a few months on them but so far so good. Nice option at around $26 I think and you don;t have to buy the proprietary enduro tool for their cups.

    I also ride mine year-round, my only bike.
    Agree about the Enduro's. I ride in some pretty bad mud here in Alaska and decided to take my Enduro 29er DHing several times last year. Coating the BB area with thick abrasive mud is not good for it and something is going to give, which turned out to be one of the original bearings. Went to the local bearing supply shop and bought 3 enduro bearings (they keep them in stock!). I was able to repack the "bad" bearing and it felt pretty smooth, so I kept it as a spare. Fast forward to this year after a few more mud-days and the other bearing finally went. I wasn't able to save it for a future spare, but during the process of switching the bad bearing with an enduro, I decided to "pop the top" on the opposite enduro bearing and see how the grease was. It was great, no bad contamination (the bad bearing grease had turned white), appeared to be doing just fine. I used these before when I finally killed shimano bearings and they appear to do the job very nicely. I'm not sure I've even had to replace one, but if you do, they are relatively cheap.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

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