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  1. #26
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    Stu are you a follower rather than a leader?

    Fair enough re the individual's perception, and I bow to your experience re loss of tension, it just seems to me that even with a heavily drilled rim like mine, it's still over twice the weight of my xc rims which run fine - under 2" of rubber rather than 4". It would be cool if someone could do some FEA and work out how light you can go.

  2. #27
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    Stu are you a follower rather than a leader?


    Just ask yourself how many times you've emailed me for advice before you ask questions like that.

  3. #28
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    Pffft I see far by standing on your shoulders 8-)

  4. #29
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    I'm not sure my shoulders are strong enough to hold up your ego.

  5. #30
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    Heh. BTW I've completely ****ed up drilling my rim, I dished it way too far to one side. Gonna have to re-drill.

    Ah well at least I've saved enough weight to allow me to patch up the wrong holes and paint it

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cynic-al
    ...I've saved enough weight to allow me to patch up the wrong holes...
    Or,

    ...I'm going to stick Veloplugs in the "small lightening" holes ...

    Last edited by Velobike; 02-15-2011 at 01:30 AM.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  7. #32
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    any more pics of that bike bigshulze? niceeee

  8. #33
    How much does it weigh?
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikecrazy55
    any more pics of that bike bigshulze? niceeee
    Here.

  9. #34
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    BTW I've completely ****ed up drilling my rim
    Was that anything to do with wine by any chance?

  10. #35
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    SSS what about chucking some rubber grommets in the holes, auto shops have them...?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #36
    How much does it weigh?
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    That would negate weight savings a lot?

  12. #37
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    The rim is fine the way it is.

    If it starts to cause a problem I'll just stick some heli tape over the holes.
    That way you can still see the nice blue rim tape.

  13. #38
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    Old thread, I know... but anyone have pics or a write-up on doing this on an offset LM wheelset?
    Last edited by WheelieWonka; 01-31-2012 at 12:01 PM.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by WheelieWonka View Post
    Old thread, I know... but anyone have a pics or a write-up on doing this on an offset LM wheelset?
    I am in the same boat. Thinking about doing it to my stock 2011 Pugsley wheels.

  15. #40
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    Much rather shave weight by drilling then dropping $$$ on a new wheelset...

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by WheelieWonka View Post
    Old thread, I know... but anyone have pics or a write-up on doing this on an offset LM wheelset?
    I'm in the progress of working on drilling the an offset LM rim and taking pics along the way. I've been procrastinating but should have it finished with a writeup in the next week or so.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by brassnipples View Post
    I'm in the progress of working on drilling the an offset LM rim and taking pics along the way. I've been procrastinating but should have it finished with a writeup in the next week or so.
    That would be GREAT!

  18. #43
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    I have a LM XC 36 hole rim and I want a lighter rim, but I can't change to a 32 hole hub and the LM Light is not made in 36 hole.

    Given the choice, what would make more sense in terms of retaining strength and losing weight:

    1) Cut away the remaining inner wall so that the rim is single wall.
    2) Drill holes through the outer wall and retain the factory machined inner wall.

    I already run some trials rims on another ride that are drilled, so I'm not all that concerned about picking up mud and water. What I am concerned about is whether I can cut away the remaining inner wall enough to prevent the tube from being chaffed and cut.

    Any thoughts?

  19. #44
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    Drilling begins

    Here's the beginning of my Large Marge drilling project. This is an offset, 36 hole, DH version. I want to keep a solid line between the spoke holes, there is a ridge there that is quite thick so it should help the overall rigidity, plus I like the idea of the spokes being supported in two dimensions. I'm planning to do series of big holes at 1.25" and then possibly another set of smaller ones on the other side of the spoke holes. I know some people just remove the entire inner wall on these, I want to leave it but I may get more agressive with the material removal on that side. When it's all done it will be laced to an 8spd Alfine hub and setup as tubeless. I don't like the open slots that the double wall ends up leaving so I think a piece of helicopter tape should take care of that and hold up for a long time.

    Initial Weight
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-initial-weight.jpg

    Drilling Large Marge Rims-profile.jpg

    The vacuum thing didn't really work out, I'll just be cleaning the mess afterwards. The bit is 1.25"
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-setup.jpg

    Drilling Large Marge Rims-action.jpg

    You can see the internal bracing here
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-cross-section.jpg

    Drilling Large Marge Rims-plug.jpg

    I'm slightly nervous about how close the holes get to the edge, right at 8mm from the outer edge of the rim. There is plenty of lip for the bead and given that it's double wall I doubt it will be an issue.
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-backside.jpg
    Last edited by brassnipples; 02-04-2012 at 10:50 PM. Reason: typos

  20. #45
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    Nice work- using higher math, it looks like you will be down around the weight of a Holey Darryl. I bet it will still be stronger as well.

  21. #46
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    First round finished

    The first batch of holes is done. So far so good, except for one oops where I wasn't paying attention and drilled out the existing valve hole. Not too big of a dea, I just left the next gap open and will re drill a new on there.

    Oops
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-oops.jpg
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-slice-profile.jpg

    I couldn't find a regular deburing tool at harbor freight but this item caught my eye. Gotta love the guilt free modification of cheap tools.
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-debur-tool-1.jpgDrilling Large Marge Rims-debur-tool-2.jpgDrilling Large Marge Rims-debur-tool-modified.jpg

    Here's a debured hole with the tool, it works ok but it won't get the back side at all because of the profile so I had to use a normal file. This would be handy on a flat rim but the LM curves make it tougher.
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-debured.jpg

    Backside
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-backside.jpg

    Weight check.
    Drilling Large Marge Rims-weight-check.jpg
    Last edited by brassnipples; 02-05-2012 at 03:40 PM. Reason: resize images

  22. #47
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    adding some weight back

    Drilling Large Marge Rims-paint.jpg

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by brassnipples View Post
    ...I wasn't paying attention and drilled out the existing valve hole. Not too big of a dea, I just left the next gap open and will re drill a new on there...
    Is a valve hole necessary? I was thinking that putting the valve centrally in one of the large holes would provide some protection against tube drag at low pressures - ie less chance of getting the valve ripped.

    I'm going to try that when I get round to drilling some rims.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike View Post
    Is a valve hole necessary? I was thinking that putting the valve centrally in one of the large holes would provide some protection against tube drag at low pressures - ie less chance of getting the valve ripped..
    Maybe it isn't necessary, but I think it's better to leave the option in case having the valve in the large holes doesn't work out for some unexpected reason, leaving a valve hole is cheap insurance.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by brassnipples View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks Great!!

    Can you tell me a little about your measurements? What type of system did you use to determine where to make (center) your holes? I think I am going to try this over the weekend

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