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  1. #2751
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    parts i have laying around
    crank brothers mallet pedals
    avid bb5 brakes
    set of answer riser bars
    couple of stems
    3-4 saddles from bmx to old mtb


    i went through this thread , i will know on the 21st when it arrives , bit off hand i assume the seat post and handle bars are aluminum ? if not i think i can shed some weight there
    2013 Kona honzo
    2013 Gt la bomba 2.0
    2011 Specilized rock hopper
    Mongoose dolomite - why i dont know

  2. #2752
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    Nice ride you have Speedracer. You will love the Dolo for the beach at the cape and for fishing trips too. Its a work horse. It just keeps rolling over anything. I have the Malus. Same but different. It rolls over sand like nothing. I trail ride on it too. Its even fun on trails. With a 350 price range you will have an awesome bike. I got the Malus for 209 to my door. So far I have put about $50 into it. Now after reading through this thread quite a bit, I am thinking about bending the frame to get to the 170mm range for the rear axle. More options that way. I know I probably could have waited to save more money and get the Gravity BEM or something similar. But I will have a great bike for under 400 when I am done, and I am having a lot more fun this way. Enjoy the riding/building and keep us posted.

  3. #2753
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    thanks ,

    biggest thing is my expectations are low , and i didnt get it to ride hard and shred i have a honzo for that .

    figuared i could try it in the snow but more or less put a rack on back with some rod holders. use it to fish the canal at the cape ect

    i personally wasnt going to spend big money on a fatbike just for recreation use , if i was going to be riding it all the time(trails) and didnt have my honzo , then i would
    2013 Kona honzo
    2013 Gt la bomba 2.0
    2011 Specilized rock hopper
    Mongoose dolomite - why i dont know

  4. #2754
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  6. #2756
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    Quote Originally Posted by pathfinder67 View Post
    Cruisin the wetlands by my house. Oyster Creek
    The Malus seems to have better geometry then the Dolomite. Is the Malus similar to the Hitch?

  7. #2757
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    Guapo,
    Well I made some personal preference upgrades and a couple of minor mechanical upgrades. But nothing major. She rides smooth and fluid. I am not sure of the specifics, but the geometry for me is almost perfect. I am 6 ft. The only complaint is the stem. It seems to be an issue for some people. It is long on all three. It bothers some peoples back/neck area. For me its my neck. I get some neck pain after a ride. I have a much shorter one on order. I know this will fix the problem because I will ride more upright. The leaning forward with my head up is what does it. But other than that I love it. I haven't measured but the height is nice. Crank placement is perfect for me. The crank arms are the right length. Handlebars are perfect width. They are right around 700mm. The Dolo/Hitch comparison is listed in this thread somewhere. With specifics. From the comparison I saw, I would say the Hitch/Malus are close. I don't get into geometry too much. I just look for a nice smooth ride. But someone here will answer your question better than I can.

  8. #2758
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    Quote Originally Posted by pathfinder67 View Post
    Guapo,
    Well I made some personal preference upgrades and a couple of minor mechanical upgrades. But nothing major. She rides smooth and fluid. I am not sure of the specifics, but the geometry for me is almost perfect. I am 6 ft. The only complaint is the stem. It seems to be an issue for some people. It is long on all three. It bothers some peoples back/neck area. For me its my neck. I get some neck pain after a ride. I have a much shorter one on order. I know this will fix the problem because I will ride more upright. The leaning forward with my head up is what does it. But other than that I love it. I haven't measured but the height is nice. Crank placement is perfect for me. The crank arms are the right length. Handlebars are perfect width. They are right around 700mm. The Dolo/Hitch comparison is listed in this thread somewhere. With specifics. From the comparison I saw, I would say the Hitch/Malus are close. I don't get into geometry too much. I just look for a nice smooth ride. But someone here will answer your question better than I can.
    I have a Dolomite and my son has a Hitch and I personally like the way the Hitch feels like a larger, more upright bike. I'm for sure going to consider a Malus in the future and I'll give my Dolomite to my youngest son

  9. #2759
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    They are all great bikes at this price point. I do some trail riding, but not much. I am more into the XC aspect of riding. I am at the edge of 1,000 square miles of woods. A lot of sand roads/trails, so this bike is a no brainer. Its great on the road and great for exploring and beach riding. I put the Shimano megarange freewheel on for the granny gear and this bike rolls right over sand and goes up almost any hill. I have read on this thread that the geometry for the Malus and Hitch are a little better than the Dolo. So it should be a good move for you. Maybe do some browsing on this thread or type in what you want on google and a lot of times it will bring you to specific discussion from this thread. There are a lot of knowledgeable members here who will eventually answer you as well. I would definitely recommend buying one. I got mine from Academy for 209 delivered. I've had it almost 2 months now and ride it every day. Worth every penny.

  10. #2760
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    New to me dolomite loving it!

    Just bought me this Dolomite for $120 off craiglist. Was barely used and I'm enjoying every minute of it. Changed out the handle bars added a bag and rack. I've ordered a ebike kit which should make it a ton of fun.




  11. #2761
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    So far I have really liked the upgrade on my Malus with the 3x Vuelta front chainring. I didn't think I'd use the large ring at all but have found I prefer using that on roads/paved trails. Yesterday I took it on some woodchipped trails in a park not far from me. Put the chain on the smallest front chainring and had no issues climbing some pretty steep terrain. The bottom of this hills were a combination of mud, melting snow and tons of leaves and the thing plowed right through. If I was on my 29er I am pretty sure I would have been on the ground after the first mud pit.

  12. #2762
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    Repoman. I agree. It rolls over and up just about anything. Took the Malus deep in the Pines yesterday. Found my doorway trail and spent some time on Preacher's Hill.

    http://ficdn.mtbr.com/images/attach/jpg.gif
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1319.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1317.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1308.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1304.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1296.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_1300.jpg  


  13. #2763
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    Hey my #fatbiking friends I feel like I might be bothering you guys, but as a noob, I look up to you guys for help..
    Im looking for possible upgrades and ideas to make my dolomite as safe and reliable as I can.What do you guys think of these changes??
    Shimano Alivio RD-M410 Rear Derailer
    Shimano Acera SL-M310 Rapid Fire Shifters
    Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel Megarange
    Locking handlebar grips
    YST Sealed BSA cupset w/Bearings English threads
    FSA Self-extracting crank bolts, JIS-M8

  14. #2764
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    I did the shifters, megarange, grips and cupset on your list, all good. The derailleur that is on the bike isn't too bad. You don't need the crank bolts since the crank arms are held on by nuts, not bolts. Depending on your riding, you'll want to do something about the brakes, the calipers and levers, they kinda really suck IMO.
    2017 Access Growler Charlie b+
    2016 Mongoose Dolomite (yeah I know)

  15. #2765
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    Tires are a great upgrade as well, rotational mass makes a big differance
    Mongoose product development

  16. #2766
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    Quote Originally Posted by Honton View Post
    Im looking for possible upgrades and ideas to make my dolomite as safe and reliable as I can.What do you guys think of these changes??
    Shimano Alivio RD-M410 Rear Derailer
    Shimano Acera SL-M310 Rapid Fire Shifters
    Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel Megarange
    Locking handlebar grips
    YST Sealed BSA cupset w/Bearings English threads
    FSA Self-extracting crank bolts, JIS-M8
    Looks good, basic upgrade stuff. Covered a lot through this thread.
    #1, get alloy brake levers. The stock plastic levers are horrible.

    I'd get the 8-speed stuff instead of the 7-speed, but they both work. You can also get the 8-speed shifters with brake levers included for about the same price. And avoid the megarange freewheel if you're going to ride on trails. OK for road/gravel/sand. That last jump is annoying on trail. 8-speed freewheels are easily available in 13-32T count cogs for reliable and even shifts through the range.

    The stock rear derailure isn't bad for casual riding, but nothing against upgrading it. Especially if you plan on riding through bouncy stuff.

    Don't get the FSA bolts. The YST cups re-use the stock axle, so you're stuck using the stock nuts. If you really want to upgrade the crankset, there are some posts a couple pages back about using a 100mm shell/167mm axle cartridge bottom bracket and shimano m131 crankset.

    I've seen pictures of the stock handlebar bending under heavy users. It's steel, and they were big users. Easy to find decent 31.8mm clamp size alloy handlebars and stems for under $20 total. $10 for alloy handlebars that will work with the stock stem.

    When the stock brake calipers wear out in time, Shimano mechanical brake calipers if you're cost conscious (~$15-20 each), Shimano hydraulic, or Avid BB7. The stock brakes with decent levers actually were OK when set up well. Shimano mechanical brakes are just a lot better and will work with the acera shifter/brake combo lever.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  17. #2767
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    grease lots of grease
    2013 Kona honzo
    2013 Gt la bomba 2.0
    2011 Specilized rock hopper
    Mongoose dolomite - why i dont know

  18. #2768
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    I bought the bike off a guy and I think he upgraded some stuff here is what he posted "Mongoose dolomite fat bike 26"x4" tires.
    all bearing been cleaned and lubed with Park Tool Polylube.
    extended seat post and stem extension.
    Very comfortable for people over 6" tall.(I'm 6"5' tall)
    comes with Kryptonite u-lock, seat cable lock, small portable air pump, cup holder.
    LED headlight and LED taillight.
    Li-ion 12v battery pack with charger included.
    spare VeeRubber inner tube.
    upgraded 203mm disc rotors with Shimano brake calipers and levers.
    spare new Shimano brake pads.
    Rims been painted over due to original paint flaking off."
    And Im looking to change the cranks because IDK if it was me being heavy, mongooses cheap parts or the previous owner didn't tighten it, but my left crank got stripped and came off when I was test riding last night. Rendering my newly purchased used bike useless. So IDK whether to change to a quality crankset or just replace the left crank

  19. #2769
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    I assume you mean the crank arm feel off the axle in the bottom bracket? In that case, I'd do the origin8 cartridge bearing bottom bracket and Shimano m131 crankset swap. If the crankarm has fallen off once while pedaling, good possibility it's been damaged enough that it will never fit back on properly.

    For everything else, I'd just swap to an 8-speed trigger shifter if you'd rather have a trigger shifter. IMO, the stock grip shift worked OK, but I hate grip shifters. Good for big thick heavy gloves though. Trigger shifters don't work when you wear mittens.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  20. #2770
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Looks good, basic upgrade stuff. Covered a lot through this thread.
    #1, get alloy brake levers. The stock plastic levers are horrible.

    I'd get the 8-speed stuff instead of the 7-speed, but they both work. You can also get the 8-speed shifters with brake levers included for about the same price. And avoid the megarange freewheel if you're going to ride on trails. OK for road/gravel/sand. That last jump is annoying on trail. 8-speed freewheels are easily available in 13-32T count cogs for reliable and even shifts through the range.

    The stock rear derailure isn't bad for casual riding, but nothing against upgrading it. Especially if you plan on riding through bouncy stuff.

    Don't get the FSA bolts. The YST cups re-use the stock axle, so you're stuck using the stock nuts. If you really want to upgrade the crankset, there are some posts a couple pages back about using a 100mm shell/167mm axle cartridge bottom bracket and shimano m131 crankset.

    I've seen pictures of the stock handlebar bending under heavy users. It's steel, and they were big users. Easy to find decent 31.8mm clamp size alloy handlebars and stems for under $20 total. $10 for alloy handlebars that will work with the stock stem.

    When the stock brake calipers wear out in time, Shimano mechanical brake calipers if you're cost conscious (~$15-20 each), Shimano hydraulic, or Avid BB7. The stock brakes with decent levers actually were OK when set up well. Shimano mechanical brakes are just a lot better and will work with the acera shifter/brake combo lever.
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I assume you mean the crank arm feel off the axle in the bottom bracket? In that case, I'd do the origin8 cartridge bearing bottom bracket and Shimano m131 crankset swap. If the crankarm has fallen off once while pedaling, good possibility it's been damaged enough that it will never fit back on properly.

    For everything else, I'd just swap to an 8-speed trigger shifter if you'd rather have a trigger shifter. IMO, the stock grip shift worked OK, but I hate grip shifters. Good for big thick heavy gloves though. Trigger shifters don't work when you wear mittens.
    Yeah it was beyond busted. Is the m131 compatible with the dolomite? I don't know much when it comes to compatibility and bikes. I don't like grip shifter at all. I do want triggers because I don't need to worry about using mittens because I live in Cali where snow isn't that big of a problem. Also why an 8 speed instead of the 7?

  21. #2771
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    Other dolomite owners say they've used the M131 with the origin8 bottom bracket without problems. The origin8 bottom bracket is a cartridge bearing bracket, and it is just a better bottom bracket than the adjustable one that comes stock. The M131 also lets you manually change the gearing up front. Small ring if you're riding a lot of hills, middle ring for casual riding, big ring if you're sticking to flat road.

    8 speed uses the same shift spacing as 7-speed, so 7 and 8 speed shifters are interchangeable. Using an 8-speed shifter on the stock 7 speed freewheel just means you have an extra unused shift point at the end. Adding an 8-speed freewheel instead of a 7-speed freewheel gives you more gear options. Only problem is minor clearance between the chain and the dropout, but this is easily solved by sticking a washer on the axle.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  22. #2772
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    Quote Originally Posted by Honton View Post
    Yeah it was beyond busted. Is the m131 compatible with the dolomite? I don't know much when it comes to compatibility and bikes. I don't like grip shifter at all. I do want triggers because I don't need to worry about using mittens because I live in Cali where snow isn't that big of a problem. Also why an 8 speed instead of the 7?
    Go to page 50 of this thread and see the links I posted for the cranks and bottom bracket that I use on my Dolomite. I also posted pics of my Dolomite on page 50. I'm in Cali also, can't wait for summer time

  23. #2773
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    Hey guys. As you can see I am really enjoying my Malus. All is good right now but as Watts has said(as well as other posters) its just a matter of time before I start having axle problems in the rear. And I do like to play rough sometimes on this beast. Just weighing some future options. Will the wheel linked below take a freewheel or is conversion to cassette necessary? Looking at both rear wheel sets on that page. I know I would have to bend the frame a little on each side and adjust the drop outs. But I am OK with that. Just wondering if I can use my current freewheel?

    On Sale Framed Pro 190 HG Rear Wheel

  24. #2774
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    Keep flipping the axle over in your frame. It'll keep bending back straight and continue to work (until it eventually braeks, but hopefully that should be a long way off).

    That 190mm wide hub wheel will fit on the dolo no problem. If you're currently using an 8-speed freewheel, I'd highly recommend grabbing the shimano 11-32 8-speed cassette (sunrace makes a cheaper one about the same quality). It's a good cassette for an 8-speed setup.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  25. #2775
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    Watts
    Yes. That is my plan. I read that here in one of your posts. Ends up Bend down. It is fine right now but when it bends I will ride it until it breaks. Also I just checked. It's a no brainer for the sunrace cassette at around 12 bucks a pop. Thanks

  26. #2776
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo613 View Post
    Go to page 50 of this thread and see the links I posted for the cranks and bottom bracket that I use on my Dolomite. I also posted pics of my Dolomite on page 50. I'm in Cali also, can't wait for summer time

    Thanks so much for all of your guys' help. My updated parts list is
    TOPCABIN Double Lock on Locking Bicycle Handlebar Grips

    Shimano Alivio RD-M410 Rear Derailleur 7/8-Speed SGS Long Cage

    Sunrace Freewheel 8 Speed 13-34 Teeth


    Shimano FC-M361 Acera Crankset

    BB SET OR8 100x164 P/P XLT SQ STL-CUP

    Shimano SL-M310 Acera Shifter Right (8 Speed

    Shimano FC-M361 Acera Crankset

  27. #2777
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    Quote Originally Posted by pathfinder67 View Post
    Hey guys. As you can see I am really enjoying my Malus. All is good right now but as Watts has said(as well as other posters) its just a matter of time before I start having axle problems in the rear. And I do like to play rough sometimes on this beast. Just weighing some future options. Will the wheel linked below take a freewheel or is conversion to cassette necessary? Looking at both rear wheel sets on that page. I know I would have to bend the frame a little on each side and adjust the drop outs. But I am OK with that. Just wondering if I can use my current freewheel?

    On Sale Framed Pro 190 HG Rear Wheel
    If you are getting those rims, spend the extra money and get an 8 speed cassette for it. The only real reason to use a freewheel is because that is what the Malus wheelset accepts.

  28. #2778
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    Quote Originally Posted by Repoman14 View Post
    If you are getting those rims, spend the extra money and get an 8 speed cassette for it. The only real reason to use a freewheel is because that is what the Malus wheelset accepts.
    Agreed. Already checked out the sunrace cassette for 12 bucks a pop. Its a no brainer.
    Thanks

  29. #2779
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    Quote Originally Posted by Repoman14 View Post
    So far I have really liked the upgrade on my Malus with the 3x Vuelta front chainring. I didn't think I'd use the large ring at all but have found I prefer using that on roads/paved trails. Yesterday I took it on some woodchipped trails in a park not far from me. Put the chain on the smallest front chainring and had no issues climbing some pretty steep terrain. The bottom of this hills were a combination of mud, melting snow and tons of leaves and the thing plowed right through. If I was on my 29er I am pretty sure I would have been on the ground after the first mud pit.

    Just got a slighly used Schwinn Biggity (Malus clone?) for my brother off local classifieds for $150. New is $400 with tax around here.

    Surprised to find ChaoYang 4" (FBN clones) tires on it as these usually are 1400-1500g each. I don't have the bike at my place, so can't take it apart and find out, but does anyone know if these are the same tpi/weight tire? I can mount brand new 120tpi Vee Mission and Vee8, but these CY tires would have more bite on snow so if they are under 2000g, I'd keep them. Also anyone know weight of stock tubes. I could get 26x2.4-2.7 365g HD tubes in for $9 each.

    Again, can't check whats in there right now, but would like to get this thing fixed up for snow trail riding on the cheap asap. I will go through this thread later this weekend to do some research. I have some ideas as I helped a friend finish up Ironhorse Dolomite build last year. Tube/tire swap alone was like 8lbs on that thing.

    Another nice surprise was this bike comes with Tektro Auriga caliper on the back, no name on the front. Rear one feels great, front could be better. I may get Avid FR5 levers for $10 a pair eventually, just to get a nicer feel.

    Most importantly I want to get the gearing right. With the Dolo with got 13-34 8speed freewheel, Acera mech, Altus 8 speed shifter, KMC chain, and while much better than stock, still not great for snowy trails. This one has strickter budget so I'm thinking Vuelta crank for $35 and shorten original chain is all I would need? Straight bolt on after taking off big ring and keeping 32/22T? I would just manual shift to granny when needed. Do I need longer chainring bolts? If I feel spendy I may get Altus trigger shiter for under $20.

    Lastly down the road I may pickup some takeoff wider alloy handlebars and shorter stem, maybe alloy seatpost and nicer pedals.

    Does it have 27.2 or 30.9 seat post diameter?

    Anyone ever figured out geo #s?

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20170304_161303_zps5wrcma2b.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20151010_115706_zpsw3k0xx3a.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20151010_115715_zps3doj3q2n.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-img_20151010_115742_zps7rejyonw.jpg
    Last edited by kryten; 03-04-2017 at 10:29 PM.
    2014 Giant Trance 27.5 3
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  30. #2780
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Just got a slighly used Schwinn Biggity (Malus clone?) for my brother off local classifieds for $150. New is $400 with tax around here.

    Surprised to find ChaoYang 4" (FBN clones) tires on it as these usually are 1400-1500g each. I don't have the bike at my place, so can't take it apart and find out, but does anyone know if these are the same tpi/weight tire? I can mount brand new 120tpi Vee Mission and Vee8, but these CY tires would have more bite on snow so if they are under 2000g, I'd keep them. Also anyone know weight of stock tubes. I could get 26x2.4-2.7 365g HD tubes in for $9 each.

    Again, can't check whats in there right now, but would like to get this thing fixed up for snow trail riding on the cheap asap. I will go through this thread later this weekend to do some research. I have some ideas as I helped a friend finish up Ironhorse Dolomite build last year. Tube/tire swap alone was like 8lbs on that thing.

    Another nice surprise was this bike comes with Tektro Auriga caliper on the back, no name on the front. Rear one feels great, front could be better. I may get Avid FR5 levers for $10 a pair eventually, just to get a nicer feel.

    Most importantly I want to get the gearing right. With the Dolo with got 13-34 8speed freewheel, Acera mech, Altus 8 speed shifter, KMC chain, and while much better than stock, still not great for snowy trails. This one has strickter budget so I'm thinking Vuelta crank for $35 and shorten original chain is all I would need? Straight bolt on after taking off big ring and keeping 32/22T? I would just manual shift to granny when needed. Do I need longer chainring bolts? If I feel spendy I may get Altus trigger shiter for under $20.

    Lastly down the road I may pickup some takeoff wider alloy handlebars and shorter stem, maybe alloy seatpost and nicer pedals.

    Does it have 27.2 or 30.9 seat post diameter?

    Anyone ever figured out geo #s?

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    I have an E-type front derailleur for sale if you would like to buy it I'm currently using one on my bike but have on extra of you want it

  31. #2781
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    Since its the same frame as the Malus, the seatpost is likely 28.6. If you aren't adding a front derailleur, no need to even take the large chaining off. It can serve 2 purposes - a bash ring/guard for the smaller rings in case you bottom out on a rock or a large ring for riding on paved surfaces.

  32. #2782
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    Quote Originally Posted by Repoman14 View Post
    Since its the same frame as the Malus, the seatpost is likely 28.6. If you aren't adding a front derailleur, no need to even take the large chaining off. It can serve 2 purposes - a bash ring/guard for the smaller rings in case you bottom out on a rock or a large ring for riding on paved surfaces.
    I will be ordering the Vuelta Comp crankset. Just want to make sure it is the right p/n everyone is successfully using. Down side 1-3 months delivery time.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Vuelta-8150022...ct_top?ie=UTF8

    Anything else I need to worry about, or is it just unbolt old, bolt on new, possibly shorten chain a link or two if only using 32/22T or get a longer chain if using 42T as well?

    Good point about the big ring. Also was not aware you could mount front mech on these. Will have to research e-type mechs, but ok with manual shift tbh.

    28.6 is an oddball size, isn't it? I may just leave it alone then...
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  33. #2783
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    If I was going to order a new crank, I'd get the shimano one knowing that it will work with the origin8 100x167 cartridge bottom bracket. In time, the stock bottom bracket will need removed/replaced. Not sure if the vuelta comp crankset will clear with the origin8 BB, but the shimano one has been tested.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  34. #2784
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    I will be ordering the Vuelta Comp crankset. Just want to make sure it is the right p/n everyone is successfully using. Down side 1-3 months delivery time.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Vuelta-8150022...ct_top?ie=UTF8

    Anything else I need to worry about, or is it just unbolt old, bolt on new, possibly shorten chain a link or two if only using 32/22T or get a longer chain if using 42T as well?

    Good point about the big ring. Also was not aware you could mount front mech on these. Will have to research e-type mechs, but ok with manual shift tbh.

    28.6 is an oddball size, isn't it? I may just leave it alone then...
    You have to use a Problem Solver if you want a front derailleur. There are a few people on here who have done it.

    The seat post size is odd, but but it's pretty easy to find 28.6 posts, especially online. My
    LBS has all kinds of older random stuff so I had no problem swapping the steel one with a new alloy one.

  35. #2785
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo613 View Post
    The Shimano Acera M361 will work with the Origin8 100x164 bottom bracket on the Dolomite
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    If I was going to order a new crank, I'd get the shimano one knowing that it will work with the origin8 100x167 cartridge bottom bracket. In time, the stock bottom bracket will need removed/replaced. Not sure if the vuelta comp crankset will clear with the origin8 BB, but the shimano one has been tested.
    Quote Originally Posted by Repoman14 View Post
    You have to use a Problem Solver if you want a front derailleur. There are a few people on here who have done it.

    The seat post size is odd, but but it's pretty easy to find 28.6 posts, especially online. My
    LBS has all kinds of older random stuff so I had no problem swapping the steel one with a new alloy one.
    Is this the correct p/n for the 361 crankset?

    Shimano Acera M361 Triple Chainset Square Taper | Chain Reaction Cycles

    As for front derailleur, looks like either DP0930 or DP0910 would work, but from a bit of reading, seems like I would have still have to fabricate a spacer to get the derailleur into the right position so if this is correct, I will pass on that and manual shift.
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  36. #2786
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Is this the correct p/n for the 361 crankset?
    Looks to be the same ones mentioned here. I'd get the 170mm length ones, just in case.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  37. #2787
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Is this the correct p/n for the 361 crankset?

    Shimano Acera M361 Triple Chainset Square Taper | Chain Reaction Cycles

    As for front derailleur, looks like either DP0930 or DP0910 would work, but from a bit of reading, seems like I would have still have to fabricate a spacer to get the derailleur into the right position so if this is correct, I will pass on that and manual shift.
    You just need one of these to get the direct mount front derailleur into the correct position

    Problem Solvers

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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Looks to be the same ones mentioned here. I'd get the 170mm length ones, just in case.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite
    Perfect, I was planing to get the 170 if it fits.

    Do I want to get the YST cup set, or the Origin 8 BB, or leave it the way it is for now? Prices shipped to Canada seem to be a lot higher for all options.

    Quote Originally Posted by Repoman14 View Post
    You just need one of these to get the direct mount front derailleur into the correct position

    Problem Solvers
    Awesome! Thanks for the link.
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  39. #2789
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    If you're swapping cranks, I'd swap out to the origin8 bottom bracket now. You'll need to take the original axle and cup/cones out anyway to clean them, and since the YST cups are the same price as the origin8, I'd rather have the ease of maintenance/installation with a cartridge bottom bracket.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  40. #2790
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Perfect, I was planing to get the 170 if it fits.

    Do I want to get the YST cup set, or the Origin 8 BB, or leave it the way it is for now? Prices shipped to Canada seem to be a lot higher for all options.



    Awesome! Thanks for the link.
    The Shimano crankset and Origin8 100x167 bottom bracket will fit the Dolomites but I'm not sure about the Malus or the Hitch. The Hitch has a shell length of 110mm and I'm not sure what it is on the Malus

  41. #2791
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    If you're swapping cranks, I'd swap out to the origin8 bottom bracket now. You'll need to take the original axle and cup/cones out anyway to clean them, and since the YST cups are the same price as the origin8, I'd rather have the ease of maintenance/installation with a cartridge bottom bracket.
    It is about $15 vs $37 shipped for me to Canada, YST vs Origin 8, but I agree, I'll rather do it once and be done, just don't want to order parts that won't work together.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo613 View Post
    The Shimano crankset and Origin8 100x167 bottom bracket will fit the Dolomites but I'm not sure about the Malus or the Hitch. The Hitch has a shell length of 110mm and I'm not sure what it is on the Malus
    Did you mean 100x164? Or is there longer one available somewhere. This is what I found so far.

    https://www.amazon.ca/SET-OR8-100x16...SQ+STL-CUP+ENG

    I will have access to the bike this week and will measure bb shell on Biggitty/Malus with digital caliper.


    Also, and I realize I may understand this wrong, with the Origin 8 being shorter spindle, would I be able to use 32/22 rings? Would not 22T be too far inward and therefore when used chain will be rubbing rear tire? 32T may be fine, but not the best chain line still? So with this setup would best way be to swap outer 42T with 30T 104bcd ring (extra $) which would be the smallest I can bolt on the outer position?

    With YST cups and original spindle, Shimano 361 crank, I could take off 42T and leave 32/22T with reasonable chain line and no rub?

    Basically, just want to convert to 32T/22T combo reliably and on a budget. I still need to buy some tools to do the job. I will shift manually for now.

    Just want to clarify things and make sure I understand this correctly.

    I can order Vuelta or Shimano 361 crank, YST cupset or Origin 8 bb so just want to know which combinations is best for what I want to accomplish and would be straight bolt on without any issues.
    Last edited by kryten; 03-08-2017 at 09:13 AM.
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  42. #2792
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guapo613 View Post
    The Shimano crankset and Origin8 100x167 bottom bracket will fit the Dolomites but I'm not sure about the Malus or the Hitch. The Hitch has a shell length of 110mm and I'm not sure what it is on the Malus
    Looks like Biggitty/Malus has 110mm shell as well. I tried with a digital caliper, but could not get 100% accurate measurement because of the bash guard is somewhat in the way, but it looked like it should be about 110mm shell.
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  43. #2793
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    Quote Originally Posted by kryten View Post
    Looks like Biggitty/Malus has 110mm shell as well. I tried with a digital caliper, but could not get 100% accurate measurement because of the bash guard is somewhat in the way, but it looked like it should be about 110mm shell.
    I personally was going to take 5mm off of each side of the shell on my son's Malus so that I would have more options as far as bottom bracket/crankset go

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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20170411_181111.jpg

    This thread needs a picture and a post. Ocotillo in bloom.

  45. #2795
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20170414_181834.jpgThe Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20170414_183736.jpg

    Desert sunsets...

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