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  1. #1701
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    OK. I ordered the one from Ebay (free shipping) to be the guinea pig. Next I'll have to find a cassette for it.....any recommendations? Is there one just like the megarange? I like that freewheel so far. The MN3.0 comes with a 10spd cassette, so will the 7spd fit the same way or will it have to be spaced different on the rim?

  2. #1702
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    Odd UPS has my shipping weight as 18.2lbs. Bike in store didn't feel 50lbs. This is also an Ironhorse Dolomite, might be a canada thing. But it certainly was heavier than 18.


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  3. #1703
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    since you're getting a hub that'll take a cassete, the world has just opened up. You can go 8, 9 or 10 speed. For the price, 8-speed is probably the easiest to go with. You can get a 11-32T cassette for about $20 and use your stock chain/shifter/derailure. Just need to choose if you want to loose one high gear or one low gear (7-speed shifter vs. 8-speed cassette). Then you adjust your derailure's bump stop so it can't go into that gear and setup your shifter. (youtube video time) You could probably find a cheaper 8-speed cassete if you just wait a bit. I bought an 11-32T Sunrace for $8. the first customer review on this cassette describes some of the ones available. I prefer the 11-32 shimano because of the smooth gear counts between gears vs. the insane jump on the mega-range's last gear.
    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-HG51-8...8949519&sr=1-1

    Don't know what else you've upgraded, but when the time comes to go 9 or 10-speed, you'll need a new cassette, shifter, shift cable, derailure, and chain.

  4. #1704
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    That hub looks promising. I'll wait to see how you do. Parts aren't as easy to get in the great white north. That's for taking the plunge for ys


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  5. #1705
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    since you're getting a hub that'll take a cassete, the world has just opened up. You can go 8, 9 or 10 speed. For the price, 8-speed is probably the easiest to go with. You can get a 11-32T cassette for about $20 and use your stock chain/shifter/derailure. Just need to choose if you want to loose one high gear or one low gear (7-speed shifter vs. 8-speed cassette). Then you adjust your derailure's bump stop so it can't go into that gear and setup your shifter. (youtube video time) You could probably find a cheaper 8-speed cassete if you just wait a bit. I bought an 11-32T Sunrace for $8. the first customer review on this cassette describes some of the ones available. I prefer the 11-32 shimano because of the smooth gear counts between gears vs. the insane jump on the mega-range's last gear.
    Amazon.com : Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette : Bike Cassettes And Freewheels : Sports & Outdoors

    Don't know what else you've upgraded, but when the time comes to go 9 or 10-speed, you'll need a new cassette, shifter, shift cable, derailure, and chain.

    Thanks for the information. I am going to wait to order any cassettes until I know for sure that it fits. IF it does and there is no issue, I may convert to an 8 speed. From what I read on Sheldon Brown's site, you have to shim the 7 speed cassette by 4.5mm. Doesn't sound like much as long as I can find the shims. But going 8 speed with a different shifter and cable I may be able to use all 8 speeds like MOMIKEY. That would definitely be nice as there wouldnt be the great divide between the 34 and the 28 that I have now with the megarange.

  6. #1706
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    Quote Originally Posted by momikey View Post
    ... A little video of the 22T up front 34T in the back and me in my back yard.
    Great way to show 22T driving 34T!
    That's around 18 Gear Inches.

  7. #1707
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    I wish my backyard had hills like that.....all flat in the swamp!

  8. #1708
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    I ordered the one from Ebay (free shipping) to be the guinea pig. Next I'll have to find a cassette for it.

    Great price on that rim / hub. One good thing about anodized aluminum is that it can be painted easily, no primer needed.

  9. #1709

  10. #1710
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    The Kong, a new 20" Fat Bike, also drilled rims.

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  11. #1711
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    I am going to buy my son a 20 this year, for next, just going to watch for a deal.


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  12. #1712
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    The Tex is pretty cool looking for colours The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-imageuploadedbytapatalk1428986969.494907.jpg


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  13. #1713
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    I noticed different brake rotors, pedals and frame geometry on these new Walgoose revisions. The Hitch has more clearance from the front tire to the tube and a taller stance at the headset.

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  14. #1714
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    Looks like a Surly Endomorph or Minnessota 1.0 knockoff fork. Slightly longer offset and length, but it probably won't take as wide of a tire as the dolo can take. I'd probably go for the Hitch if I was buying one.

  15. #1715
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    I joined the group too, I got it in delivered in perfect shape. I have to admit, the rotor side bearing on the front hub had grease. The other bearings were dry, everything seems to be very inexpensive in China, but apparently grease is very expensive there.
    I put an 8 speed freewheel (14-34) and went to ride.
    It was fun to ride, sand? Forget about it, you won't notice it.
    Steep uphills? Ridiculous traction, it just climbs like a goat.
    Brakes? They suck, it almost made me run into trees on steep descents, I have some BB7 calipers on the way after the ride.
    Also, several times I stood up and leaned forward to pedal on sudden climbs, and upshifted by inadvertently rolling the grip shifter. SO I put in an older Shimano 8 speed shifter I had and I will get to use all 8 speeds of my new freewheel, the derailleur works fine for 8 speeds, it is a little tricky, I first looked at it and thought it said XT, but under close examination, it is a shimano TX, hmmm.... Texas edition derailleur?
    I never put the pedals on, I put an old set of Crank Bros Mallet I had.
    I am thinking about replacing the tires if the 120 tpi tires roll so much better as some wrote. I want to read more feedback about them.
    Bottom bracket is low, I hit some roots.
    But overall, I like the bike, it's like riding a bicycle edition of a Yamaha TW200

  16. #1716
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    Which 8 speed freewheel did you put on?


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  17. #1717
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    Just ordered a Hitch! I think it will fit me better than a Dolo.

    I already have a pile of upgrade parts ready to go. Cranks, Pedals, Hydraulic Disc Brakes, Bars & stem & better Derailleur. Can't wait ... should be a hoot to ride!

  18. #1718
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarknutMike View Post
    Just ordered a Hitch! I think it will fit me better than a Dolo.

    I already have a pile of upgrade parts ready to go. Cranks, Pedals, Hydraulic Disc Brakes, Bars & stem & better Derailleur. Can't wait ... should be a hoot to ride!
    I put my order in this morning. As far as fitment goes, we shall be the guinea pigs.

  19. #1719
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZINGER View Post
    I put my order in this morning. As far as fitment goes, we shall be the guinea pigs.

    Yep .. I will be surprised if it is much different than the Dolo ... parts wise

  20. #1720
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarknutMike View Post
    Yep .. I will be surprised if it is much different than the Dolo ... parts wise
    Interesting, the Hitch is coming from Vacaville via UPS. The Beast and Dolo came from Houston via FedEx. I wonder if the Hitch is being manufactured at a different factory.

  21. #1721
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    [QUOTE=N49ATV;11904077]Which 8 speed freewheel did you put on?


    sorry, it doesn't have any brand on the box, just has the number of teeth

  22. #1722
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    On this bike, any 8-speed freewheel will work. The schimano 14-28 is a solid workhorse that will last, but doesn't have a low gear. The schimano 14-34 megarange gives you that low gear, but it has the stupid huge gear gap. I'll never run a megarange again for trails. Road use, sure. The best gear range on a freewheel I've seen was a sunrace 13-32T 8-speed. It's about as wide as you'll find for a freewheel, but you loose a litle quality with sunrace. I think it's more of a QC issue. Some are great, some aren't. My sunrace cassette on another bike is fine, my sunrace freewheel on the dolo has a squeel when freewheeling under load, even after oiling it with transmission fluid. Either way, they'll last longer than the stock one.

  23. #1723
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZINGER View Post
    Interesting, the Hitch is coming from Vacaville via UPS. The Beast and Dolo came from Houston via FedEx. I wonder if the Hitch is being manufactured at a different factory.
    Mine is coming from San Pablo, CA ... UPS

  24. #1724
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    Anyone able to measure the diameter of the bottom bracket bearings? The LBS thinks they have one in stock. But I won't have time to buy the tools, run home, and make it back to the LBS.


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  25. #1725
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    Don't have them off the top of my head, but a question was asked on amazon's YST bottom bracket cup set that indicated they were 4mm (3/16"). 9 bearings per side, english thread.

  26. #1726
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    So 3/16" bearings, 9 per side. Is the OD of where the bearings thread in all the same?


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  27. #1727
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    Standard English size. English / British / BSA / ISO.
    1.370" X 24 tpi
    1.375" X 24 tpi
    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    ... YST Sealed BSA Cupset with Bearings (for under $10). BSA means they're the "English" size. # CR5042 BB-611NW ...
    Any BSA cupset with bearings should work, but the YST performs really really well - it's the one recommended.

  28. #1728
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    Well I just went through the bike. They didn't have the YST set at the shop, only sealed units.

    Here is what I found, bear in mind I have not ridden any bicycle in 10+ years

    - Rotors slightly warped. They only rub a little bit, when I spin the tires. I will replace them. As well the brakes are not good.

    - Grease everywhere. Headset was greased, hubs were good, a little tight, but good.

    - Bottom bracket bearings had filings in them. Cleaned and regreased

    Shifter/derailuer is out a bit. Needs tuning.

    - Brakes, are pretty bad. Slow to stop, and loud. I have never had a rotor bike. But seems loud to me also rear brake handle is stripped on its adjustment. So brakes are very soft on rear

    - Shifter is cracked. Works still but cracked. Box had some damage. I'll talk to Costco tomorrow about parts. I'd rather not wait for another bike, but ball is going to be in their court.



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  29. #1729
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-imageuploadedbytapatalk1429247498.865976.jpgThe Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-imageuploadedbytapatalk1429247514.585188.jpgThe Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-imageuploadedbytapatalk1429247553.193354.jpgThe Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-imageuploadedbytapatalk1429247566.479819.jpg


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  30. #1730
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    Call PacBike. They will overnight any critical part you need.

  31. #1731
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    Yeah. I'll call them. I'd rather not setup another one. If I replace the brake levers with EF-51, that solves the brake lever and shifter issue. Brakes, I might just replace.

    On the plus side, I didn't install the mega range I bought, and it's fine without. Atleast for my street crawling


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  32. #1732
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    Got the Minnesota Fat rear wheel in last night. It is narrower, but nicer than the Dolores wheels. I won't get a chance to play with it for fit until saturday. Until then here are some teaser pics.

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    Sorry the phone didn't upload the pics:
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150416_183757.jpg
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150417_075858.jpg
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150416_183735.jpg
    Last edited by Stang951; 04-17-2015 at 07:58 AM.

  34. #1734
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    That is a nice looking rim. What is the weight difference?


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  35. #1735
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    N49atv - just a note.... All disc brakes need time to break in. Granted them dolo brakes are not great, but they will get better after a couple rides...

  36. #1736
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    Yeah I'm going to adjust them again tonight. Part of the issue on rears is the lever is stripped. The tension adjustment on the lever will thread out, but if you firmly apply brakes, it skips back in and you lose your extra tension. Fronts are fine. I was thinking I'd switch to EF-51 shifters/brake levers anyway. Rotors are cheap, and they are only a little warped. They only rub a little bit. Each rotor has a small spot about 1" long where they rub a while the rim turns.


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  37. #1737
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    I forgot to mention after I read these, my brakes were all messed up. There was no more room to move the calipers, I had to go to the bike store and buy spacer/washers to get the fixed side pad closer to the rotor, and then adjust the other rotor. Same, the rear not only that, but it was mounted too low, so the edge of the rotor would scrape, I had to add a spacer there too. Both rotors are warped a little too.
    All that said, these big heavy tires build up a lot of rotating momentum, like two massive flywheels, so we need good brakes to slow them down.

  38. #1738
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    Yeah I want good stopping power. The path around the lake and sub division has lots of families, and kids. I'd hate to hit one, or run one over because they fell off their bike, or accidentally cut I front of me, etc.

    I don't think I need BB7, but maybe 5. I'll see price difference.


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  39. #1739
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    The stopping power of bb5 and bb7 is the same. But the bb7 is a lot easier to adjust. You can adjust both pads without tools.
    So if you can, fire your own happiness, get the 7.

  40. #1740
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    Dolomite factory: $75 each, create your own name and sticker

    Fat Bike, Fat Bike direct from Tianjin Chaowang Industry&Trade Co., Ltd. in China (Mainland)


    They have some killer carbon bikes, around $500. Sell them in the US for $3000 ? I am in the wrong business.

  41. #1741
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    I have installed a bottom bracket mounted front derailleur! The catch.... I got bit by another Mongoose... the "Vinson" I was able to get it for $493 delivered to my door. I passed the Dolo to my wife, but not before major changes to make it easier for her to ride.

    I was curious about both bikes having 190mm rears, but the Vinson was just a way nicer set-up as far as stock parts...(Triple crank, better disc brakes, sealed bottom bracket, etc...) I popped the crank/bottom bracket off the Vinson and it fit the Dolo. It does have less clearance @ crankarm/chainstay than Vinson. I'm guessing it is because of the slightly different taper of the stays... It is like 3mm which is tight but it worked!

    So with it mounted I began thinking about the FD taking cues from the Vinson's bottom bracket mounted FD. I found a Deore xt bottom bracket FD for $15 used from ebay. So with it mounted I began to think of cabling. I decided to ziptie to existing derailleur/brake cables and install clamp stop from a rear bike light to secure to the seat tube.

    Results: all 3 gears work up front!!!! A whole new world for the Dolo's has opened up! The bottom bracket from the Vinson was 156-158mm. Bear in mind... theVinsons crankarms have a high q-factor. So a replacement crank has to be comparable. But this means my old Dolo BB is now scrap parts and I now have a replaceable drivetrain!

    So I had to replace the BB that I took off the Vinson and could not believe my luck in finding a VP BB relabeled Origin 8 100x164mm fatbike BB for $17.99 at modernbike.com. Unbeatable deal! More clearance than the original since I kept the cranks that I originally put on the Dolo for myself, but with extra chainring now instead of singlespeed set-up.

    Here are some pics: I have redecaled both bikes to be Bontrager.... One of the pics shows seatclamp that uses 27.2 seatpost with Dolo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.07.02.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.07.12.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.07.40.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.07.56.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.08.04.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.08.12.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.08.20.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.08.45.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-2015-04-17-16.10.07.jpg  


  42. #1742
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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    That's the bike I would have bought had it been available. I'll mod mine as I need to pick up more speed around the lake


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    Looks like the MF3.0 wheel fits without issue. Here are some pics mounted up. I checked the brake rotor clearance and it "Appears" that it will be fine once the pads are adjusted. I may have to change the spacing on the caliper a little, but not entirely sure yet. Once I have a rotor off one of the wheels I will know for sure (unless I can find a spare rotor laying around for cheap.

    If there are any more pics that I need to take for anyone please let me know now. There is more rain coming and I have to get a few things done before work at 6 tonight.

    I'll leave it on the rack until either the rain is closer or work time comes.The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150418_135809%5B1%5D.jpg
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150418_135841.jpg

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150418_135836.jpg
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150418_135803.jpg



    Now it looks like I will be buying an 8 speed cassette and an 8 speed shifter. Might have a 7 speed trigger shifter for sale later unless we use it on another one of the bikes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-1-20150418_135751.jpg  

    Last edited by Stang951; 04-19-2015 at 08:05 AM.

  44. #1744
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    The pictures are compressed, can you re-post them in normal size? And I'm interested in the shifter.

    And I have been wondering if a 8 sp would fit on the Dolo but I'm thinking a Shimano HG will.

  45. #1745
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    Working on it.

    Settle down Azinger..it's not for sale yet...lol

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  46. #1746
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    Last edited by AZINGER; 04-19-2015 at 12:24 AM.

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    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite

    I just bought 3x7 rapid fire shifters, and BB5/HS1. The LBS had BB5, for $59/rim. To order in BB7s was $95/rim. And now I could have 3x8! Don't know how far I'll upgrade, but transferable to another bike


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  48. #1748
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    Got my eyeballs on these:
    http://tinyurl.com/o6ldktt

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    That's a good price....wonder if they are the real deal or imitations made by the night crew?

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  50. #1750
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stang951 View Post
    That's a good price....wonder if they are the real deal or imitations made by the night crew?
    I always look at the feedback. Idiots and crooks don't last long on eBay like they used too. It would be worth an e-mail if you think they are knock-offs, but since everything is made in China these days it's really hard to say. Besides, if this guy is selling knockoffs then so is the LBS.

    UPDATE: I called SRAM and they told me if the product does not have a box it may be a knock-off. The brakes are made in Taiwan so anything from Hong Kong or the mainland may be counterfeit. So that's just about everything on eBay or Amazon.
    Last edited by AZINGER; 04-20-2015 at 07:30 AM.

  51. #1751
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    Has anyone upgraded rotor size? The rear looks pretty tight, and I don't think there is room to go up

  52. #1752
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    The rear has bends in the frame where it looks like you could put in a 180 rotor. Plus, with the 190mm rear axle width, you could probably fit a dinner plate back there with room to spare.

    I bought some of the bb7's off Fibica's ebay store. So far, no complaints and I've put a lot of rides on them.

  53. #1753
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    How is their stopping power compared to stock? I'll take a pic of mine. Looks tight for 180s


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  54. #1754
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    This seller has BB7's in the retail box. Avid BB7 Ball Bearing MTB Disc Brake with 160mm Rotor Front or Rear Mountain New | eBay

    The boxed sets come with a star drive tool. Numbers, Avid and date code are etched on the rotor surface.

    And when talking to SRAM they obviously can't or won't do anything about counterfeiting. They seem rather ambivalent, maybe it's not worth their time and trouble.

    Here is the manual on the SRAM website dated 2012: http://tinyurl.com/msqej6r

  55. #1755
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    Quote Originally Posted by N49ATV View Post
    How is their stopping power compared to stock? I'll take a pic of mine. Looks tight for 180s
    comparing BB7 to the stock Jak brakes is like comparing a rangerover to a pinto. almost 3 times the surface area to the brake pad, better quality calipers and much easier to adjust. It will take more time and effort to set them up than cheaper disc brakes, simply because there is more to adjust. In the end, it's worth it though. the BB7 or BB5 will not save on weight though. They are built to last.

  56. #1756
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    Got my Walgoose "Hitch" today

    Wheels/tires are lighter than expected but still seem heavy ... this is my first fat bike.

    Front wheel/tire 9lbs 14 oz

    Feels like zero lube in Bottom bracket & head tube.

    Will be totally disassembling & rebuilding with different parts anyway.

    Decals are messed up again removing anyway.

    Nothing looks bent or broken.



    Last edited by DarknutMike; 04-21-2015 at 08:06 PM.

  57. #1757
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    Looks cool for sure. Id like to see the Vision.

  58. #1758
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    What's the difference on the BB7 rotors, HS1 vs G3?

  59. #1759
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    Quote Originally Posted by tman52748 View Post
    What's the difference on the BB7 rotors, HS1 vs G3?
    hole design on the brake surface. End of the day, for the ebay knockoff ones, they'll do the same thing. The biggest thing is breaking them in well. Once you use them some, they are bedded in and break fine. They will be a litle lighter than the stock rotors but not enough to worry about considering the rest of the bike. However, you'll have much better rotor bolts. If you get the real ones, I heard the G3 were quieter.

  60. #1760
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    I am 6' 2" & the hitch fits me surprisingly well. It is def bigger than I expected.

    So far I have removed all decals, repacked the headset, put on a modern stem & wide bars & put a different brake of the front.
    I had a 2004 era set of Hayes Hydraulic disc brakes laying around ..... they fit perfect .... I didn't even have to shim them!



    Last edited by DarknutMike; 04-22-2015 at 07:08 AM.

  61. #1761
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    Weight 43.5 pds vs Dolomite 49 pds.
    The cranks are alloy so that saves 1.5 pds.
    Maybe another 1 pd for the drilled wheels.
    The last 3 pds is a lighter frame and components .

    Differences:
    The pedals are twice as thin.
    The seat post clamp is skeletonized.
    The seat post is knurled the entire length.
    Spokes are black.
    No name on the brakes, different rotor, lighter.
    The wheel looks black in the pictures, but is actually Dolomite Blue so I guess they have some paint left over.

    The handlebar stem is shorter and the headset is located higher than the Dolomite so it brings the bars up and closer to the rider.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150421_212716.jpg
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150421_220057.jpg


    Mine came with the rear rotor loose, I will have to pop off the tire and figure out what kind of tool it takes.
    Last edited by AZINGER; 04-22-2015 at 12:05 AM.

  62. #1762
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    My Hitch is 43.5 lbs as well ... I looked closer after your post ...my wheels are definitely black not dark blue.

  63. #1763
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    Looks like the hitch is a much better starting point for a trail bike. Swap to a trigger shifter and put on a lower chainring gear up front. The different fork looks longer, lowering the headtube angle. I wonder if it's as flexy as the dolo's fork, or if it's stiffer since it's has tapered fork legs. The stock dolo fork flexed a lot under heavy braking.

  64. #1764
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarknutMike View Post
    My Hitch is 43.5 lbs as well ... I looked closer after your post ...my wheels are definitely black not dark blue.
    Dolomite blue is very dark. Look at it in the sunlight or put a flashlight on it, you will see the dark blue metallic paint.
    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150422_170857.jpg

  65. #1765
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZINGER View Post
    Dolomite blue is very dark. Look at it in the sunlight or put a flashlight on it, you will see the dark blue metallic paint.

    Mine are black no metallic

  66. #1766
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    UPDATE: My rear break rotor is loose, so I look at it and to my horror the rotor flange screws onto the hub. No lock nut. I called Pac Bike and and was elevated to a supervisor who said to take it back to Wally or let my LBS fix it and they reimburse me.

    I called my LBS and they had never heard of a screw in rotor mount. I guess I could put some red Loctite on it but I have no way of screwing it in besides hand tightening using the rotor as leverage.

  67. #1767
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    What about putting some grommet material around it, and using a strap wrench?


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  68. #1768
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    Quote Originally Posted by N49ATV View Post
    What about putting some grommet material around it, and using a strap wrench?

    That's the best idea I've heard yet. Pac-Bike is unsure of the new Hitch and do not have any spare parts. (The first tech rep I called thought I was calling about a trailer hitch.)

  69. #1769
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    Got the rear wheel all mounted up. Looks good. Rides well, and once the shifter gets here I'll have 8 speeds. Only thing I'll miss is the bright red paint. Not really thrilled with the anodized red.

    Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150422_203217.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150422_203148.jpg  


  70. #1770
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stang951 View Post
    Only thing I'll miss is the bright red paint. Not really thrilled with the anodized red.
    Anodized aluminum can be painted over without primer since the process makes the aluminum neutral (not reactive) and provides a rough surface for paint adhesion. Rust-Oleum would do the trick.

  71. #1771
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    If I paint them and later decided to strip thwm, would it affect the anodized coating?

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  72. #1772
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    The rotor flange screws onto the hub on my Hitch as well. I think I'll just lock tight it.
    Def odd way for them to do it though.

    Ordered a seat post & YST BSA Cupset. I know the Hitch is a cheapo bike but these 2 things are just too bad too live with & I didn't have them in my parts stash.
    Oh & I'm replacing every bolt on the thing as well .... the original bolts are beyond crap.

    Actually the only parts I'm not replacing is the frame (obviously), wheels/tires, freewheel & the bottom bracket spindle ... I'm swapping everything else.

    I like many of you have been riding for many years & have accumulated a pile of spare parts so I will end up with a decent little Fatbike for about $300.00.

    I'm having fun building this bike up but I definitely would not have gone this route if I had to buy all these upgrade parts new .... wouldn't even be worth it.

  73. #1773
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    Well for me it was a no brainer, even ordering all the parts. It has been fun (and I would have spent the money elsewhere anyway) AND no one down here orders fat bikes. The two shops that I asked stated that they only ordered ones that are 2-3 thousand dollars. I have way less than that even ordering the parts new.

  74. #1774
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    Yeah same thing up here. I can pick up a moonlander locally, and 2 others. But the lowest I can even get into is about. 2k. And I'm using mine as a cruiser, for riding with my boys. Not as a fatbike per say.


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  75. #1775
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZINGER View Post
    UPDATE: My rear break rotor is loose, so I look at it and to my horror the rotor flange screws onto the hub. No lock nut. I called Pac Bike and and was elevated to a supervisor who said to take it back to Wally or let my LBS fix it and they reimburse me.

    I called my LBS and they had never heard of a screw in rotor mount. I guess I could put some red Loctite on it but I have no way of screwing it in besides hand tightening using the rotor as leverage.
    it is threaded so when you brake the rotor mount tightens onto the hub.
    Mongoose product development

  76. #1776
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    Quote Originally Posted by skota23 View Post
    it is threaded so when you brake the rotor mount tightens onto the hub.


    Yeah but I ride backwards a lot

  77. #1777
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    After re-aligning the front fork, packing the headset bearings, getting the breaks just right, (except for the pitiful back brake) then I find that the rear axle is eccentric which makes the freewheel gyroscope.
    Should I take it back or is it worth fixing?

    I'm leaning toward following PacBikes suggestion to swap it out, but then I'm flipping a coin again, good or bad.

  78. #1778
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    I'd exchange. Your currently only out some time and grease


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  79. #1779
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    Quote Originally Posted by N49ATV View Post
    I'd exchange. Your currently only out some time and grease
    And so I looked at the "low end brand name fat bike" Minnesota 1.0 my LBS and online sellers are pumping, online cost 800, LBS 1000. My take is that it comes with low end components for the price. The Dolo/Hitch + $500 would put me in the Minnesota 2.0 (or better) range.
    Framed Minnesota 1.0 Fat Bike 2015

  80. #1780
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZINGER View Post
    ... I'm leaning toward following PacBikes suggestion to swap it out, but then I'm flipping a coin again, good or bad.
    Normally a company will NOT want you to swap out, but to wait for parts to be available. If they advise you to swap it out, I'd suspect that is really good advice.

    Yes you're flipping a coin again, and may have to do it another time too (but now you know that to inspect at the start), but it could save a world of trouble down the line.

  81. #1781
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Normally a company will NOT want you to swap out, but to wait for parts to be available. If they advise you to swap it out, I'd suspect that is really good advice.

    Yes you're flipping a coin again, and may have to do it another time too (but now you know that to inspect at the start), but it could save a world of trouble down the line.
    The rep me they don't have any spare parts, and they are unfamiliar with the Hitch. She told me they went to a training class but right now aren't quite as comfortable supporting it as they are the Dolo. Pac Bike offered to pay the LBS repair bill which was quite a surprise but I don't want to wait around for the reimbursement check.

  82. #1782
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    I scoured the rotors with a fine flat bastard and carborundum stone. Eliminates the squeal and improves stopping power.

    Before - note the unidirectional grind marks and pad marks, only contacting the ridges. Then After - stress relieved the stainless with mutli-directional grinding
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150423_001046.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150423_014512.jpg  


  83. #1783
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    Just found this in the neighborhood, thrown in the garbage. Project fixie.

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150423_172418.jpg

  84. #1784
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    All done for now.....except that now the brakes are not grabbing like they did before I swapped the wheel. With the stock wheels (or at least before I removed them) the brakes grabbed and stopped things pretty well. Now not so much. I wiped them down with denatured alcohol to get rid of any grease or oils from my hands. A



    Any ideas?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150423_194504.jpg  

    The Dolo in the (semi) wild - Mongoose Dolomite-20150423_194448.jpg  


  85. #1785
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    No idea why it wouldn't stop as well. Did you remove the caliper to put the rim on? Could it be a cable tension thing? Same rotor, same mount, similar hub


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  86. #1786
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    Same rotor, no adjustment to remove/replace wheels. The only thing that I can think of is that there was grease or oil on the rotor(s) when I first rode and contaminated the pads. I'll have to check that tomorrow

  87. #1787
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stang951 View Post
    Any ideas?
    FOR GOD'S SAKE, GET RID OF THE REFLECTORS!!!

    Possibly contaminated the pads. I've had good luck spraying them down with carburetor cleaner. Also, if the loss of brake power was since you sanded the pads, you probably need to re-bed them.

  88. #1788
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    After doing some reading I have also identified that whenever you change wheels you are supposed to realign the calipers. I'll sand the pads and realign the calipers tomorrow

  89. #1789
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    I'm almost finished building the Hitch. (for the moment)

    Here is what I upgraded .... I had all this stuff already.

    Hayes Hydraulic Disc brakes
    Specialized 175mm cranks & chain rings
    XTR Rear Derailleur & XT shifter
    Kore Handlebars/ODI knock off grips
    Truvativ 80mm Stem

    I have a better seat post & the BB cups coming.

    I haven't totally decided what goofy decals I'm going to stick with. These are as good as any to start. I own a graphics shop so these will change from time to time

    It has been fun building this & it is a interesting ride for sure.




  90. #1790
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    That's a nice looking bike


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  91. #1791
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarknutMike View Post

    It has been fun building this & it is a interesting ride for sure.
    Sweet. It's worth more than a $1500 bikes direct / LBS special by far. Give us the weight when you can.

    I've thought about creating a circle template to spray paint the gray tape in the rims. Beats taking the tires off and putting in a new tape.

  92. #1792
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    Comparing the Hitch to the Malus, are the headsets the same height or is the Malus the same height as the Dolomite?

    Looking to buy and like the height of the Hitch.

    Thanks.

  93. #1793
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    I did up the wheels this morning .... Looks a lot better IMHO



    I'll post the final weight when I'm done .... it is just shy of 43 lbs now but I have more to do yet.

    The tires & tubes are heavy as sh*t .... I can loose 3 lbs or more just by changing them.

  94. #1794
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    getting first fat boy for fat boy. hitch coming monday. those that have received the
    hitch,,,first impressions, better quality or not, packed better, better parts etc???

    thanks

  95. #1795
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    The Hitch is prob lighter out of the box than the Dolo or Malus but I think they are all on the same level quality wise

  96. #1796
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    Quote Originally Posted by foolofsand View Post
    getting first fat boy for fat boy. hitch coming monday. those that have received the
    hitch,,,first impressions, better quality or not, packed better, better parts etc???

    thanks
    Packed much better, see my picture. All painted surfaces protected. Welds nicer, beautiful paint and deep clear coat. Quality is a coin toss. My Dolomite was perfect, my Beast had a bent spindle. My Hitch with the loose brake and bent fork, I think the assemblers hate our guts. They get the Most Running American Dogs re-education training each morning before the shift starts.

  97. #1797
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZINGER View Post
    ...I think the assemblers hate our guts. They get the Most Running American Dogs re-education training each morning before the shift starts.
    Given the extreme care obviously given to some parts, there are things falling through the cracks. I think the assemblers are thinking that they'd better make their quota for their shift, or their kids won't be eating...

  98. #1798
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    ok, getting some parts...want to make sure will fit the hitch

    1. handlebar...(31.8 or 25.4mm) w 100mm(4"rise)...will it fit with existing cable length
    2. shimano mf-tz31 megarange freewheel 14-34 7-speed
    3. shimano acera sl-m310 rapid fire...right...7-speed
    4. seat post...28.6mm/350mm or 450mm
    5. bearings...yst sealed BSA cupset...english threads

    any help would be appreciated...new at all this stuff

  99. #1799
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    4" rise may make the Hitch look like the Beast, a cruiser.

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  100. #1800
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    Quote Originally Posted by foolofsand View Post
    ok, getting some parts...want to make sure will fit the hitch

    1. handlebar...(31.8 or 25.4mm) w 100mm(4"rise)...will it fit with existing cable length
    2. shimano mf-tz31 megarange freewheel 14-34 7-speed
    3. shimano acera sl-m310 rapid fire...right...7-speed
    4. seat post...28.6mm/350mm or 450mm
    5. bearings...yst sealed BSA cupset...english threads

    any help would be appreciated...new at all this stuff
    Not sure about the cable length but the rest should work.

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