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  1. #1
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    Does anyone else snap the chain on their fatbike a lot?

    I break chains all the time on my Pugsley. This is my second Pugsley and both were affected. It is always when I shift too hard under load going up an incline, yes I know this is my fault, but the weird thing is it never happens on other bikes I own. It's just when I get caught offguard and need to shift, always on technical terrain.

    Again, I know this is my fault, I just find it weird that it's only on my Pugsley. I have like 6 quick links on my chain Anyone else?
    '15 Specialized Fatboy
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  2. #2
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    I break them often and pretty much while taking off hard.

  3. #3
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    How would you respond to someone bringing a Subaru back because of transmission problems? (The only thing they do differently is that they push the gas pedal all the way to the floor, allowing for max rpm, before releasing the clutch quickly.)

  4. #4
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    Erm, I did say that it was my fault. It's just that I only find myself doing this on my fatbike. Not my other trail bikes. Or any other bike for that matter.

    Not looking for any sort of compensation from Surly, lol. I just don't get why I do it. The first few were, yes, under hard load, but the one earlier this week I was like "oh come on I wasn't even pedalling that hard"
    '15 Specialized Fatboy
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  5. #5
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    What chain are you using?

    One of my experienced-with-breaking-things clyde buddies is smitten with Wipperman chains. I like 'em too but I run IGH so my input is otherwise irrelevant here.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  6. #6
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    I was having a run of chain breaking on my SS a few years ago.

    I was modestly ascribing this to the power of my mighty thighs, but the breakages were causing my manly parts to swell to the size of footballs, and my toptube was cringing away every time I got on the bike.

    After noticing that all the broken chains were SRAM and changing to KMC I haven't had any more problems.

    So either my leg muscles have atrophied or a certain product was made of cheese.

    (Of course, there may be no longer a problem)
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  7. #7
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    It's the stock chain, I thiiiiink it's a SRAM. I'm like a borderline big boy, I weigh 195-200 before gear. Perhaps I should try out a Wipperman
    '15 Specialized Fatboy
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  8. #8
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    KMC chains have worked for me.


    I don't mean to sound like a total a$$, but stop being a douche and shifting under power.


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  9. #9
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    Same as above. Kmc chains great, zero issues and they are cheap.
    Only broken ones were sram.

  10. #10
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    Never broken a chain. Not even on our tandem. I don't think I am a sissy because I do ride fairly fast (usually top ten or higher in every race I have done). I am very careful and considerate to my equipment. Never shift under full load. I also shift a lot, up and down. I believe this helps by keeping less angle on the chain thus reducing stress.

  11. #11
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    The tension in the chain is inversely proportional to the chainring size. Just think of your crank and your chainring as levers, crank length stays the same but chainring gets smaller .... More leverage.
    So, if you use a larger chainring you can reduce the tension.
    Which I guess means using bigger cogs in the back to compensate.

    Just an idea.

    Being weak for your weight also leads to increased maximum tension on your chain.
    Because of this logic: you choose your (low) chainring size based on getting a gear ratio that let's you climb for a period of time. Your favorite long climb and your anaerobic threshold and your weight will determine this. So the weaker you are (or heavier you are for the same strength), the smaller a chainring you will choose. Which increases the leverage, and since the maximum stress in your chain will happen when you stand up to pedal and put your body weight into it, that force on the pedal won't change because of your strength, it will be basically your body weight. So, when you've chosen a smaller chainring because you are weaker and thus increased the leverage, that max stress in the chain is higher, it's your body weight times the leverage ratio.

    This shows that if you're overweight, the effect on your chain is more than double your overweightness, e.g. if you are 20% overweight this will increase the max tension your chain has to face by more than 40%, actually 44% (1.2x1.2=1.44), because you've increased your body weight and the leverage ratio, and the max stress in the chain is one times the other.

    Did I make that confusing enough?

    The only advice this really gives is to maybe get a bigger biggest cog in the rear, which will let you use slightly bigger chainrings.

    But it sounds like a KMC chain is the the best action to take.
    Last edited by Godlikedog; 09-28-2013 at 10:23 PM.

  12. #12
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    I buy the cheapest SRAM chains at my LBS for ~$16 each and abuse them in my Pugs with no issues, but it runs an IGH which puts no side to side load on the chain so they are fairly invulnerable to the awesome power of my chicken legs!

    I had to splurge for a $35 SRAM chain on my 10 spd MTB. No issues on that either.

    I would look at the chainline in the gear that causes you the issues and see how bad the chain is bent sideways. My guess is that it's the geometry of the chain during those shifts that is breaking them. You might be able to adjust your chain line to solve the problem.

    It's worth finding the root cause of the problem.
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  13. #13
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    Thank you, those of you who had good suggestions about leverage ratio and chainline, that actually helped a lot. More than the douchey "stop shifting under load" post
    '15 Specialized Fatboy
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    More than the douchey "stop shifting under load" post
    C'mon man! You admit to shifting under load then wonder why your chain breaks. Pretty elementary bike principle.

    It was a douche-esc post on my behalf, and for that I am sorry. But that post will stick in your head every time you shift under power. Just you wait and see.

  15. #15
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    I have never broken a chain. I am as light as a feather but I do load my bikes with lots of gear. Even though I have chicken legs they are pretty strong. I think it has do with hating the sound of mashed gears while shifting under load so I never do it. I even use SRAM chains.
    All I am saying is give pizza chants

  16. #16
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    I've broken plenty of chains.

    I remember years back when shimano chains sucked and the SRAM chains were Sachs chains (they even were stamped as such). I broke quite a few of the Shimano chains, and a few of the SRAM(Sachs)...which were more reliable. Shimano figured out how to make chains a few years later by indenting the pins, creating a "mushroom" shape. This makes it extremely difficult, if not impossible, for the link to slide off the pin, as was the case way back in the day. The only caveat is that you're supposed to connect it with the "special" shimano pin, but many people use quick/power-links with no problems. I've never broken one of these chains, which is like the last 11 years or so out of 20, except due to it getting jammed in my BB area one time, which was not the chain's fault. This when I decided to get rid of granny gears and ride my 47lb freeride bike up all kinds of trails, in addition to my 29er with the road-cassette. Shimano brought this technology to all of their mountain chains eventually. The equivalent SRAM technology is "crosstep", but as far as I know, it hasn't trickled down to all of their chains.

    KMC makes SRAM and Shimano chains these days.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I buy the cheapest SRAM chains at my LBS for ~$16 each and abuse them in my Pugs with no issues, but it runs an IGH which puts no side to side load on the chain so they are fairly invulnerable to the awesome power of my chicken legs! ...
    My SRAM chains were all broken on a singlespeed. Straight chainline.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    C'mon man! You admit to shifting under load then wonder why your chain breaks. Pretty elementary bike principle.

    It was a douche-esc post on my behalf, and for that I am sorry. But that post will stick in your head every time you shift under power. Just you wait and see.
    I guess I took his post to mean that he shifts under pressure on all his bikes at times, but only on the Pugs has he had continuing breakage problems.

    The chainline on the Pugs should be as spot on as any other bike. The possible exception would be if you are running a funky crank or bb setup and then your chainline could be off, possibly causing problems. More than likely, like others have said you are just having bad luck with whatever brand chain you are using.
    When I was getting into mtbing 13 years ago, SRAM / Sachs chains were considered pretty good. People would ditch their Shimano (made by KMC) chains for the SRAMS.
    I've always run mostly SRAM just because they tend to be cheaper and I like the quicklink. I swear they have had a few bad runs of chains though and I bet getting a new chain would solve your problems. Maybe even getting a higher model SRAM chain.

    I donít think itís as clear cut as saying one brand is better than the other. I have good and bad experiences with both and probably so have most people that have experimented with multiple types of drivetrains.

    Of course you want to make sure you replace cassette and chain rings if there is any significant wear before putting on the new chain or you will have a whole new set of problems.

  19. #19
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    I'm on my 3rd chain in 8 months and 1300 miles on my pugsley. I do find myself on occasion grannying up hills and mashing on the pedals when I should have been spinning or hikeabiking. a lot of the trails I ride have either steps, big roots and/or log overs on the climbs and not having enough momentum and being a super-clyde, certainly factors into my chain breakage and recent free hub detonation. One of my chains was lost due to the rear hub slipping in those stupid SS dropouts and the crappy XT QR that Surly put on the bike (that doesn't fit in the dropouts), creating a massively misaligned chainline. FWIW, I'm having less breakage on my pugsley than on my 29er that preceded it.

    Another factor that may or may not be related, is the less than stellar quality of the driveline componentry. The derailleurs in particular aren't the best spec and I have struggled with shifting efficiency despite numerous tuneups. The front, in particular seems to operate on a shift and wish method. A downshift may occur at any point within 30 seconds of flipping the lever, if it happens at all.

  20. #20
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    I broke 2 Shimano xt chains and one Sram last summer mashing on it from a dead stop on pavement. I guess I just attributed it to trying to get the big arse wheels rotating as I've never had a problem on my skinny tires. Hmmmmm dunno.....

  21. #21
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    Besides the extra weight of the Pugs, the greater inertia, increased traction and much greater rotational weight, it only seems logical that it would be harder on chains.

  22. #22
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    Re: Does anyone else snap the chain on their fatbike a lot?

    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Same as above. Kmc chains great, zero issues and they are cheap.
    Only broken ones were sram.
    I'll x3 this I've always had SRAM mid to upper grade chains and always brake them sooner or later. I put one of the higher up KMC chains (the gold one, I forget the model) on my Moonlander and that thing has been dang durable for how much crap it has been covered in.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  23. #23
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    No offense taken, I do suppose if I admit to shifting under load I deserve some heckling.

    It just tends to happen if I am going fast then find myself on a steep uphill. So I drop from big ring to small and I guess that cross chaining suddenly while trying to pedal uphill is where I go wrong.
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  24. #24
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    I'd say I break a moderate number of chains. I've wondered (aloud at times) if running Gripshift causes more broken chains because of the ability to shift across so many cogs in a single twist. Seems like it would put some serious sideways load on the chain.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    No offense taken, I do suppose if I admit to shifting under load I deserve some heckling.

    It just tends to happen if I am going fast then find myself on a steep uphill. So I drop from big ring to small and I guess that cross chaining suddenly while trying to pedal uphill is where I go wrong.
    Shifting the front derailleur, especially under load, is hardest on chains.

  26. #26
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    Never broken a chain before. Just ordered one of the Motobecane fatbikes, should I look into replacing the chain or maybe just keep a spare in my bag?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by arock View Post
    Never broken a chain before. Just ordered one of the Motobecane fatbikes, should I look into replacing the chain or maybe just keep a spare in my bag?
    No. Just ride it.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    No. Just ride it.
    Def plan to. Just like to have my bikes setup so I don't have to worry about them. Or at least have parts I do need to worry about on hand for a quick replacement.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by arock View Post
    Def plan to. Just like to have my bikes setup so I don't have to worry about them. Or at least have parts I do need to worry about on hand for a quick replacement.
    Makes sense. At this point there is no reason to worry about the BD chains in particular.
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  30. #30
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    Re: Does anyone else snap the chain on their fatbike a lot?

    I have never broken a chain until last week, on the Pugs, shifting at a bad time on an incline.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

  31. #31
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    I put the pricey SRAM chain on my necro, never had a problem...until. A couple weeks ago loaded up fully for a multi- day off-road tour. I wasn't shifting, as the hill was big and steep enough to see coming. I was in my granny gear, and as soon as I stood up I said to myself.."this is a bad idea" ...and SNAP! Fixed it, walked up the hill and all was fine.


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  32. #32
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    I just upgraded my fatty to a Sram 10spd (XX, new GripShift, PC-1091R chain). I see that the "PowerLock" (vs. the old "PowerLink") link is now tool-less for installation only. I could not get it to lock, so I left it off. Seems almost pointless if you can't take it apart.

    From Sram's website:
    "SRAM chain engineers developed PowerLock as a tool free, sure and consistent way to connect our 10 speed chains. While PL does not require special tools for install, the especially tight tolerances of 10 Speed drive trains mandated that each PowerLock is good for a one-time application only."

    There goes one of my favorite things about Sram chains...

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    I just upgraded my fatty to a Sram 10spd (XX, new GripShift, PC-1091R chain). I see that the "PowerLock" (vs. the old "PowerLink") link is now tool-less for installation only. I could not get it to lock, so I left it off. Seems almost pointless if you can't take it apart.

    From Sram's website:
    "SRAM chain engineers developed PowerLock as a tool free, sure and consistent way to connect our 10 speed chains. While PL does not require special tools for install, the especially tight tolerances of 10 Speed drive trains mandated that each PowerLock is good for a one-time application only."

    There goes one of my favorite things about Sram chains...
    I use Shimano Chains with KMC quick links made for said chains.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    There goes one of my favorite things about Sram chains...
    I have read about more than one person re-using the SRAM 10 spd QR links with no ill effect. I haven't had to break my one 10spd SRAM chain, but when I do I plan to reuse the QR link and see what happens.

    I have re-used KMC QR links that the manufacturer said were one use only and nothing bad happened. YMMV.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I have read about more than one person re-using the SRAM 10 spd qr links with no ill effect. I haven't had to break my one 10spd SRAM chain, but when I do I plan to reuse the qr link and see what happens.
    I'd be surprised if you can pull it apart without tools. Like I said, I was unable to get it to lock when installing it. The link moved a few mm and then got stuck on the little "tooth" that's designed to lock it in place.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmooveP View Post
    I'd be surprised if you can pull it apart without tools. Like I said, I was unable to get it to lock when installing it. The link moved a few mm and then got stuck on the little "tooth" that's designed to lock it in place.
    I have a Park QR link tool.
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  37. #37
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    I still have the stock-ass chain on my Necro Pugs that I have had since July 2012. How that chain has lasted through the stuff I put it through is beyond me.

    BUT, I do clean and lube it religiously, which I believe helps.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    I have a Park QR link tool.
    Aha! Thanks, didn't know that existed. Wonder if it works on the new and er, improved links.

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    I guess Iím in the same boat as the OP. I have broken many chains. First Shimano chains years ago, then SRAM more recently.
    Iíve learned a pulse technique to shift on surprise hills. Ram the hell out of the pedals for a quick boost, then back off and shift a few cogs as you follow the momentum with the crank. But of course if a chain is about to break it will always be more likely to do it under load, under shifting, and when crossed.
    Are your chains too long? If the chain tension is very low as you drop to the small front ring the chain can ride up on the tips of the teeth, causing jumping and breaking. This can be exaggerated if you are in the big chain ring and small cassette side and choose to shift the front der first. Small + small = loose chain.
    Are your chains too short? Most people check for a little remaining action at the rear der when sizing a chain, but that isnít the whole story. The chain has to have enough length to jump over teeth too. This is exacerbated if you are in the big chain ring and small cassette and choose to shift the rear first. Cross chain plus climbing onto the teeth needs a little extra. Mostly this isnít a problem since you have to size by two links at a time, but it should be checked.
    Are your old chains worn out? This causes all sorts of weird dynamic loading things to happen and increases the odds of failure. There are tools, but an easy way is to compare 10 or more links of a new chain with a used one. When the size difference is noticeable, it is time. Since these things arenít really sealed, you might just be wearing out chains faster than you think.
    Does your chain suck? If you suck the chain into the small ring and BB gap it often gets yanked in through a gap that it doesnít really fit through. Iíve found pretty significant side link plate damage after a sucking event. Of course if my chain failed later, I would blame all the damage on the breaking event. I wouldnít consider that the gouge in the link was from earlier. Iíve found the part that is actually stuck may be a handful of links from the part that was mashed through the gap because I force the pedals before I realize Iíve chain sucked. Let the jokes begin.

  40. #40
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    One season I snapped my chains 13 times. I finally looked into it and turns out the chains with shot peened pins are the strongest. When they shot peen the ends of the pins, the links have a harder time bursting open.

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    I've always considered shifting under heavy load to be an absolute no-no so I'm a bit surprised to hear experienced riders say they do it...I've never snapped a chain in 20+ years.

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    So far in something pretty north of 18,000 miles I've broken two chains, on on my road bike that was totally my fault (peloton of Scouts stalled on a hill...high cassette...Brute force takeoff...snapped chain and detonated derailler. 3 seconds!) The other was my 2012 Muk 3, less than 1000 miles, KMC galvanized OEM. Liked the idea of the galvanized chain on a winter bike but not impressed with at least the OEM offering. Salsa makes some mutterings about "higher chain failure rates", a lady coworker broke a chain on her 9:zero:7. I replaced the KMC with a SRAM since I had one handy for my other nine speeds and a supply of quick links to match. We'll see how it goes, just changed out the 24t chain ring for a 22t; the 2015's come with the 22 stock. Like it!

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post
    The first few were, yes, under hard load, but the one earlier this week I was like "oh come on I wasn't even pedalling that hard"
    I would try going to a wipperman chain. Best chains out there. I put an ebike chain on my singlespeed. Chain looks like it could pull a truck. Its been on that bike 3 years now. Still within tolerances.

    Are you trying to grab more gear than you should? One technique I've always used is to shift only gear at a time. Yea, your drivetrain is capable of much more, but with all that shifting, you're really torqueing a straight line, the chain.

    So try grab a gear, let it connect, grab the next gear, let it connect. Grab the next gear, let it connect. It means you have to think a touch in advance, and it takes more time to get to the right gear if you're moving a big range, but just that subtle difference might put less strain on the drivetrain.

    Come to think of it, I don't really know WHY I shift this way? I do it on all my bikes. I rarely (if ever) grab more than one gear at a time, road bike, mountain bike, cross bike, fat bike. Campy, Shimano, and SRAM. It could be that I'm so old I remember the old ass days when you needed to count through your gears in friction to make sure you got to where you wanted. Dunno....

    As far as why it happens on only your fatty, I can't know.

  44. #44
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    Does anyone else snap the chain on their fatbike a lot?

    No. Never. KMC.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  45. #45
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    Since switching to 1x10, I've not broken a chain. Knock on wood, but 2500 miles this year on 2 chains and going good!

  46. #46
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    What brand chain? Can't leave us hanging like that

    Quote Originally Posted by AC/BC View Post
    One season I snapped my chains 13 times. I finally looked into it and turns out the chains with shot peened pins are the strongest. When they shot peen the ends of the pins, the links have a harder time bursting open.

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    Broke chain on my ICT twice,my son once, and today on the beargrease once. I figured from the beginning it was something I'm doing wrong...I'm a rookie in off road biking,sort of. I'm getting better and at least I learned how to fix my own chain.

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    Broke a KMC superlight chain on mine during a front ringshift on flat ground, kinda disappointing.

    Replaced it with a half used Shimano XT chain because that's all I had at the time. Have some new KMC x10.93s to replace it when it's dead.


  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    What brand chain? Can't leave us hanging like that
    I think he may be mistaken with the shot-peening, that's a process where millions of little hard balls are blown through a hose and onto a piece of metal to harden and strengthen a piece it. Ellsworth used to do this with their frames and it's a common practice for some parts.

    I think he was referring to the fact that the pins are "mushroomed" at the ends because a pointed something-or-other is driven into the ends and it slightly "bulges" the ends of the pins, making it much more difficult for the plates to slide off the pin.

    Shimano has been doing this for years and it's long since "trickled down" to all of their mtb chains. Sram has been doing it for a few years with their "cross-step" technology and they charge a lot more for it, but the idea is the same.

    I did notice a dramatic difference in chain strength back in the day when I switched to the first chain to utilize this technology, the old CN-7701 Dura-Ace/XTR. From that time I've bought nothing but shimano chains for this feature, especially since the low-end chains have it now.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  50. #50
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    ive broken shimano XT,XTR chains. Then I moved over to KMC still broke them but not very often, I just didn't like their poor condition performance.

    I now use sram 1070 or 1050 chain, heavy and durable and great in poor conditions.
    For the record most of my breaks were due to wearing out the chain, and or poor chain line. Which is easy running a 1x10 and logging 600- 700 hrs a year on bikes.
    To be fair to shimano, I've allways shifted under load but there's a method of doing it that is less strenuous than full on mashing while shifting. I wasn't very good at that back in my early shimano chain days.

  51. #51
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    Are any of you trying to push the pins back in, after shortening the chain or repairing trail side? The chains typically don't like that....

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Are any of you trying to push the pins back in, after shortening the chain or repairing trail side? The chains typically don't like that....
    Funny you should ask. Today 20 km from my car , my chain snapped. Chain was not old , well maintained, never cross chained too much or shifted under load. First time in over 40 years of biking. It was -15 c , but I had a down jacket and chain tool in my bag. I pushed out a few links and pushed in the pin with my hands numb from the cold. It was not a pleasant experience and took a few tries. At one point I almost lost my cool and threw the chain into the woods , but the prospect of walking back to the car refocused me.The chain did get me home and though a bit shorter , shifted just fine. I put on a new one when I got home. It was the chain that came with my Muk 2 . The quick link plate snapped in half .Some days you eat the bar , and some days the bar eats you. David

  53. #53
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    I had a SRAM quick link break as well....

  54. #54
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    I've had bad luck with the KMC lightweight chains, both the X10L and X10SL on my Fatboy. Both started self shifting while riding and then broke within a few miles. The latest one broke with only 8 miles on it. I've had no issues with the standard cheap X10 I took of my mountain bike, and will likely be running the standard solid pin/non- skeletonized side plate chains from now on.
    '17 Cutthroat
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon
    '15 Fatboy Expert

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    What chain are you using?

    One of my experienced-with-breaking-things clyde buddies is smitten with Wipperman chains. I like 'em too but I run IGH so my input is otherwise irrelevant here.
    Big Clyde here. I break SRAM like other people break bread.

    Wipperman has been bomb-proof for me. OP, go for one of them.

  56. #56
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    The chains break because the big tires have a lot of traction and won't break free like smaller tires will. You end up pushing on a chain attached to a crank attached to a wheel attached to a tire that is nailed to the ground. Something has got to give and the chain is the weakest part of the system.

    I broke a few chains on my Pugsley, alway going up a steep grade in too high of a gear.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ailuropoda View Post
    The chains break because the big tires have a lot of traction and won't break free like smaller tires will. You end up pushing on a chain attached to a crank attached to a wheel attached to a tire that is nailed to the ground. Something has got to give and the chain is the weakest part of the system.

    I broke a few chains on my Pugsley, always going up a steep grade in too high of a gear.
    True story and the same goes with hubs!! Been saying it for years but falling on deaf ears, I was starting to think maybe I was just a beast

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    True story and the same goes with hubs!! Been saying it for years but falling on deaf ears, I was starting to think maybe I was just a beast
    I agree. I was speaking with my LBS owner about this. Another customer and I have been particularly hard on freehubs and rear axles. We think big guys put a lot of torque on the hubs, and the QR hubs in 170/190 in particular flex the axle and likely cause freehubs to fail. I bet through axle designs will help somewhat, or perhaps just redirect the forces elsewhere. I plan to change the rear dropouts on my Mukluk to TA specifically to address this. I don't understand why the industry insists on still using QR axles on these bikes.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    True story and the same goes with hubs!! Been saying it for years but falling on deaf ears, I was starting to think maybe I was just a beast
    Before I retired it, I broke three chains on the Pugsley and one hub. This is not a design flaw of the bike, just an engineering limitation that the driver has to be aware of.

    I retired the pug because it was just too heavy. Like 40 pounds. Uncle Sam has given me back some of my money and I plan to blow some of it on a Beargrease XX1. I test rode one and running tubeless tires it will be one of the lightest bikes I have, only being beaten by my Lynskey race bike which is also fully rigid.

    Heck, my Specialized FSR Stumpjumper is close to 29 pounds.

  60. #60
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    ....
    Just stick it in granny and start grinding.

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