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  1. #51
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    Looks like a nice setup, Volksbike!

    I know it's a single but are there bosses on the spider for a 58bcd ring? Have to be drilled and tapped but sometimes the blanks are there.

  2. #52
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    They do!

    Quote Originally Posted by hybris View Post
    Apparently the little ones that fit in the seat tube are Very popular in Europe at the minute.

    Waiting for SRAM to put out a fat crank with direct mount, match it with a 24 or 26 tooth stainless chainring. Then it will be an e-less bike, beauuuutifull
    I think the Sram X9 crankset can be run w/ an aftermarket direct mount ring in place of the spider. Also the older fat spaced xx1 too!

    I was hoping to see the GX w a removable spider...

  3. #53
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  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by hybris View Post
    Waiting for SRAM to put out a fat crank with direct mount, match it with a 24 or 26 tooth stainless chainring. Then it will be an e-less bike, beauuuutifull
    It looks like the GX single or Double spider also is removable to go with a 1x ring.

    Also the XX1 168 Q factor may fit your fatty! But i wonder of the durability of a carbon crank... At that price anyways.

    Hope this helps

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    Looks like a nice setup, Volksbike!

    I know it's a single but are there bosses on the spider for a 58bcd ring? Have to be drilled and tapped but sometimes the blanks are there.
    I don't think there are bosses for 58 BCD....will check and confirm.
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  6. #56
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    No worries, i see now they also make a double in the GX.

    Thanks

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    It looks like the GX single or Double spider also is removable to go with a 1x ring.

    Also the XX1 168 Q factor may fit your fatty! But i wonder of the durability of a carbon crank... At that price anyways.

    Hope this helps
    Thanks for the information. SRAM web site is light on for detail about the direct mount fat bike options.
    Have similar concerns about the durability of carbon cranks, particularly form pedal strikes. Not to mention the price.
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  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    No worries, i see now they also make a double in the GX.

    Thanks
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  9. #59
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    Oh, i should have mentioned, the above pic is a GX 1000 series with spider fixed to crank. My references above are about the GX 1400 cranks. They have the removable spiders...

    I think I'm going to pick up a set of the GX 1400 Double and swap out the spider to a wolftooth stainless 24t or 26t direct single. Im digging the steel 24mm axle and if i want to run double i can just swap it out again.

    These are also pretty much same weight as the RF Cinch Turbines provided they both have same direct mount chainring.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by volksbike View Post
    This is the GX 1000 crank w fixed spider as you can see. As far as the granny ring mounts in the back, i bet it has four bosses cast in to the spider for the chainring bolts like on the 2X but these are not drilled and tapped to save some $ in manufacturing.

    If you had access to a drill press and the right drill and tap you could convert in to a double. I don't know where the change in chainline is between the 1X and 2X cranks. Maybe spacers, castings? IDK

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    This is the GX 1000 crank w fixed spider as you can see. As far as the granny ring mounts in the back, i bet it has four bosses cast in to the spider for the chainring bolts like on the 2X but these are not drilled and tapped to save some $ in manufacturing.

    If you had access to a drill press and the right drill and tap you could convert in to a double. I don't know where the change in chainline is between the 1X and 2X cranks. Maybe spacers, castings? IDK
    No castings or bosses on SRAM 1x Confirmed it works great with XT 10 speed Dynasys Shimano chain - no drops...Against SRAMs advice...

    Last edited by volksbike; 04-25-2016 at 09:51 AM.
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  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by hybris View Post
    Thanks for the information. SRAM web site is light on for detail about the direct mount fat bike options.
    Have similar concerns about the durability of carbon cranks, particularly form pedal strikes. Not to mention the price.
    The directions that come with most of the drive train components from Shimano and SRAM are pretty lacking as well!

    Just the standard injury stuff and then a reference to a professional installer. First time 'round I left off spacers on the 100mm BB !

    Then a couple of week later I noticed my bearing races naked and not covered by the washer. Went to LBS and asked whats up. Then hadn't seen it b4 either, but recommended that I try it again, this time with the spacers. Worked like a charm and even brought my chain line in a little which I needed. Will add a picture of the SRAM BB spacers (basically big washers) that go inside the BB bearing cups. Other that the mud, sane, ice and H20 in my bearings, all is good now!!!

    -VB
    Last edited by volksbike; 04-26-2016 at 08:36 AM.
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  13. #63
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    I've been running an E*thirteen 9-44 cassette with a RF cinch setup that I alternate among 26,28, 30 and 32 chain rings depending on what I'm up to. If you could swing it it seems ideal, I'm able to change the chain ring in a couple minutes. I've even changed one during a ride once when me knee started acting up as I expected it to, having brought the smaller ring in anticipation.

    So far the 9-44 is going great with a few hundred miles on it

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nefariousd View Post
    I've been running an E*thirteen 9-44 cassette with a RF cinch setup that I alternate among 26,28, 30 and 32 chain rings depending on what I'm up to. If you could swing it it seems ideal, I'm able to change the chain ring in a couple minutes. I've even changed one during a ride once when me knee started acting up as I expected it to, having brought the smaller ring in anticipation.

    So far the 9-44 is going great with a few hundred miles on it
    Thanks will check it out. Right now I have 3 11-36 10 spd XT cassettes. So I have some pedaling to do b4 I wear these out....

    Here is a close up pic of the GX 1x BB. Note the spacers just inside each bearing cup...you need these to run this crank.

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  15. #65
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    Dilemma -> Pie Plates Vs. Granny Gears on Fat Bikes (AKA Fat Bike Gearing options...)-image.jpg

    This is what i meant by chainring bolt bosses. Whether drilling them out (if one had them) is worth it or not is entirely up to the skill and availability of tools on hand of the user, of course.

    Also the pictured crank allows the exchange of spider or direct mount chainring by removing the three Torx bolts.

    Nice to hear the 10spd chain is working nicely! I plan on running 9spd cogs and a 40T or 42T cog with mine though maybe a 10spd chain.

    Kirk

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nefariousd View Post
    I've been running an E*thirteen 9-44 cassette with a RF cinch setup that I alternate among 26,28, 30 and 32 chain rings depending on what I'm up to. If you could swing it it seems ideal, I'm able to change the chain ring in a couple minutes. I've even changed one during a ride once when me knee started acting up as I expected it to, having brought the smaller ring in anticipation.

    So far the 9-44 is going great with a few hundred miles on it
    You have to remove the crank arm to swap a chaing ring, right? Nice option, even trailside. Why not?

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    You have to remove the crank arm to swap a chaing ring, right? Nice option, even trailside. Why not?
    Correct, Drive side (actually both) Crank arm comes off with and 8mm allen (I carry a properly large one in my pack) and the retaining nut comes off with a free hub nut tool thingy. I don't usually take all of this; only when I go exploring a new place that looks like i may spend a couple hours climbing steep stuff. Mostly though lately I just run the 26, with the 9 tooth out back it'll go like 27-28 mph and I like that most of the time I'm smack in the middle of the cassette

  18. #68
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    Nice, i was thinking of running the 26T or even the 24T SS Woftooth chainring upfront depending on what my chainline is going to be w that...

    Nice to have that granny on the fatty, and i can roll when i pedal out.

    Or i can get the North Shore 104/64 double but it's for Sram Cranks.
    2 x10 104 BCD Spider for SRAM Cranks | North Shore Billet

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    Or i can get the North Shore 104/64 double but it's for Sram Cranks.
    2 x10 104 BCD Spider for SRAM Cranks | North Shore Billet
    RF has that too Race Face 2x Cinch Crankarm Spider 104BCD

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by volksbike View Post
    Then a couple of week later I noticed my bearing races naked and not covered by the washer. Went to LBS and asked whats up. Then hadn't seen it b4 either, but recommended that I try it again, this time with the spacers. Worked like a charm and even brought my chain line in a little which I needed. Will add a picture of the SRAM BB spacers (basically big washers) that go inside the BB bearing cups. Other that the mud, sane, ice and H20 in my bearings, all is good now!!!
    Thanks VB
    Did the spacers come with the 100 mm GXP bottom bracket or do you have to purchase separately.
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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    Nice, i was thinking of running the 26T or even the 24T SS Woftooth chainring upfront depending on what my chainline is going to be w that...
    Still leaves me unsure about chainline with SRAM cranks. With 197 hub, my ethirteen cranks I wouldn't have the chain clearance to run a 4.8 tyre. To run a wide tyre the RF 190mm cranks seem to be the better option.


    Found these figures for crank width:
    surly crank = 214q
    Cinch / next sl 190mm =222q
    Cinch / next sl 170mm =202
    E13 trs = 197q (i think..)
    Hollowcore / cannondale = 198q/204q
    Samox = 217q
    Sram xx1 = 201q

    Some 1x cranks allow the chainring to be flipped which will improve the chainline if running 197 hub. Do you know if this is an option with SRAM cranks? The Wolftooth chainring has a 6 mm offset

    The link below is an explanation of fat bike chainline optimisation that I found useful.

    http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/023...on_v2.pdf?1305

    Tony
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  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by hybris View Post
    Thanks VB
    Did the spacers come with the 100 mm GXP bottom bracket or do you have to purchase separately.
    The spacers came with the SRAM GX 1x Bottom Bracket...
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  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by hybris View Post
    Still leaves me unsure about chainline with SRAM cranks. With 197 hub, my ethirteen cranks I wouldn't have the chain clearance to run a 4.8 tyre. To run a wide tyre the RF 190mm cranks seem to be the better option.


    Found these figures for crank width:
    surly crank = 214q
    Cinch / next sl 190mm =222q
    Cinch / next sl 170mm =202
    E13 trs = 197q (i think..)
    Hollowcore / cannondale = 198q/204q
    Samox = 217q
    Sram xx1 = 201q

    Some 1x cranks allow the chainring to be flipped which will improve the chainline if running 197 hub. Do you know if this is an option with SRAM cranks? The Wolftooth chainring has a 6 mm offset

    The link below is an explanation of fat bike chainline optimisation that I found useful.

    http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/023...on_v2.pdf?1305

    Tony
    Thanks Toni,
    The Q-factor on the Gx 1400 cranks is similar to their other Fat offerings: 203.5
    The chainline is 66.5mm which is the same as their other Fat cranks.

    I beleive the offset 6mm chainring can be flipped. At least i heard reference of that at Wolftooth to change the chainline.
    Wolftooth also offers a chainring that has no offset for a difference of 3mm

    I plan on running a pair of Sram GX 1400 fats as 1x on a 907 frame w 190/197 rear spacing. I might be able to get it to run 2x if i just place and space out 5,6 or 7 cogs instead of a full 9,10 or 11 speed cogset.

  24. #74
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    Here is a link to the Wolftooth BB30 ring that changes chainline 3mm as opposed to 6.

    Direct Mount for SRAM BB30 Short Spindle Cranks, boost chainring ? wolftoothcomponents.com

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post

    I plan on running a pair of Sram GX 1400 fats as 1x on a 907 frame w 190/197 rear spacing. I might be able to get it to run 2x if i just place and space out 5,6 or 7 cogs instead of a full 9,10 or 11 speed cogset.
    Thanks for the info.
    Would appreciate an update when you try the GX 1400 as 1x.
    Flipping the 6 mm offset chainring will move the chainline 12 mm outwards, if there is room against the crank. The 3 mm you suggest sound more workable but doesn't have the range of sizes of the 6mm
    Personally I wouldn't go back to 2x. Just need to get the low end speed a bit slower and I will be fine.
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  26. #76
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    Sram Gx 1400 fat crank chainline

    Quote Originally Posted by hybris View Post
    Thanks for the info.
    Would appreciate an update when you try the GX 1400 as 1x.
    Flipping the 6 mm offset chainring will move the chainline 12 mm outwards, if there is room against the crank. The 3 mm you suggest sound more workable but doesn't have the range of sizes of the 6mm
    Personally I wouldn't go back to 2x. Just need to get the low end speed a bit slower and I will be fine.
    So i finally got my parts and fat ride together! Woo hoo! Sorry for the wait.

    Here is the Wolftooth 1X GXP chainring w the 6mm offset on my '15 9:zero:7 Whiteout:

    Dilemma -> Pie Plates Vs. Granny Gears on Fat Bikes (AKA Fat Bike Gearing options...)-image.jpg
    Dilemma -> Pie Plates Vs. Granny Gears on Fat Bikes (AKA Fat Bike Gearing options...)-image.jpg
    Dilemma -> Pie Plates Vs. Granny Gears on Fat Bikes (AKA Fat Bike Gearing options...)-image.jpg

    The GXP 6mm offset ring will NOT fit flipped as the ring hits the crank. I beleive the BB30 SS 3mm offset version will mount up either way, flipped or not
    Last edited by Kirkerik; 02-08-2017 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Spelling

  27. #77
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    That is a 24T ring. Obviously changing where the bottom bracket spacers are can move your chainline 2.5mm either way.

  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    That is a 24T ring. Obviously changing where the bottom bracket spacers are can move your chainline 2.5mm either way.
    Kirkerik - Is that 11 speed in the back? 11-42T? It looks like you have lots of gears to work with! How do you like it so far?

    I'm running a 30 tooth with 11-36 10 speed pushing JJ 4.8s but thinking of dropping down to 28T or smaller oval for the front ring. Chainstay Clearance is tight on my setup and I could use a few more granny gears for the snow that just arrived! I'm also hesitant to double up with the spacers on the drive side...but it looks like it might work...







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  29. #79
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    Ice Age trails?

  30. #80
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    yup 1x is needed when the wooly mammoths start chasing you. Uncle Gomez told me so.
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    Ice Age trails?
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  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by volksbike View Post
    Kirkerik - Is that 11 speed in the back? 11-42T? It looks like you have lots of gears to work with! How do you like it so far?

    I'm running a 30 tooth with 11-36 10 speed pushing JJ 4.8s but thinking of dropping down to 28T or smaller oval for the front ring. Chainstay Clearance is tight on my setup and I could use a few more granny gears for the snow that just arrived! I'm also hesitant to double up with the spacers on the drive side...but it looks like it might work...







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    I love it. It is working well in all gears. I have a 24T up front and a 10speed sunrace 11-42 w an 11speed xt rear deraileur. Saint 10x shifter. The 24T is plenty faste nough in the snowy season. Where i pedal out gravity takes over just fine. I'll swap rings to something bigger for the summer, maybe.

    My chainline in front is ~66.5mm from centerline of BB.

  32. #82
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    Oh, the 24T i put on is a Wolftooth Stanless steel w standard 6mm offset. I forgot the pic was of a 30T.
    I would definately recommend going smaller in front.

    Here is a pic from the 2016 Sram mtb drivetrain frame fit spec manual on the 1400 fat crank:
    Dilemma -> Pie Plates Vs. Granny Gears on Fat Bikes (AKA Fat Bike Gearing options...)-img_0242.jpg

  33. #83
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    Maybe this is more legible:

    Dilemma -> Pie Plates Vs. Granny Gears on Fat Bikes (AKA Fat Bike Gearing options...)-img_0243.jpg

  34. #84
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    Great info thanks!!


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