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  1. #501
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    Routed the cables today and this is how I set them up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-imust.jpg  


  2. #502
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    looking good.are you getting a dropper seat? if yes,150mm rock shox stealth 31.6mm fits in nicely.

  3. #503
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    also heli tape will be handy.i applied on downtube,triangle sides to prevent shoe rub and top tube.Also used small patches where cables are touching the frame.

  4. #504
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    Yeah I used some lizard skin where needed. Doubt that I'll get a dropper since I have one my Stum[y and barely use it unless I'm riding in VA where there are steep hills.

  5. #505
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    goch ya.well looking forward to see your build finished.

  6. #506
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    Great to see more of this awesome bike being built.

  7. #507
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    Do these frames have bearings or bushings in the pivots?

  8. #508
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    So… where/what crank/BB to buy? 120mm wide threaded BB. I haven’t found any retailers online selling a crankset for this width; I plan on running a 1x up front with a 10-speed cassette out back. I know RaceFace makes one, just cannot find a place to buy it. Additionally, how crazy-ass will the geometry get if I opt for a 150mm front fork instead of a 120mm? (is this even practical?)

    Received my frame today, it’s BLUE. Very very electric BLUE. Beautiful bike. Will need a professional build though, some rough-around-the edges places (headset area for example, and cable guide blockoff plates have gaps that need proper sealing). Otherwise, I believe this is going to be a certifiably kick-ass bike once it’s built up.
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  9. #509
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    I'm using the Race Face turbine with their 100mm spindle which has a total length of 189.5mm and like I previously stated; wish they would have a 179.5 mm spindle which would be perfect for chainline / Q-Factor.
    Race Face Turbine Cinch Fatbike Cranks > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA

  10. #510
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    Leopold,if you want a cheaper option,look up my post #479 i posted a link of the ones i am using.Come complete with BB,cranks and chain ring 30t.Been riding them for over 5 month now and no issues to report.

  11. #511
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    Well, finally got my rear shock and took her for a spin and it rides real nice but don't know if I'll keep her cause my left knee started to hurt as soon as I started pedaling so the Q factor is just a tad too much for my knee to handle, I also don't really like the chainline, noticed there's quite an angle on the chain when I'm running in my tallest gears, the middle and low gears are OK so this will wear out the drive train components much faster especially since I ride in a mountain area where I use my tall/big gears allot. Hopefully I'll be able to ride tomorrow (depending on the weather) and really test her out.

    If I'm not happy than I'll sell her.

  12. #512
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    get some pics uploaded Nash of your rig.Also what tyres/rims,chain,cassette are you using.get a pic of your chain line up too,as strangely enough,i dont have any issues with the chain line,all gears work fine and i too ride in area where mountains are dominant so i tend to go through all my gears a lot and so far i have not had any issues with the gears nor i have noticed any harder wear on my set up.

  13. #513
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    Just came back from riding my favorite trail and was amaze how the bike performed and my knee is not hurting and think it's cause I had my riding shoes on today. Still need to do some tweaking towards rear brake, just need to swap the metal to resin pads...too much noise.
    Am very impress with the Manitou Mcleod once I set it up for my weight and riding conditions. I think it's better than my Fox shock on my Stumpy Fattie.

    Funny thing: while I was unloading the bike, some older gentleman stop by and start asking questions about the bike then ask if he could ride it and came back and basically told me that if I ever want to sell it, to give him a call.

    Told him that if I would sell it, it would be only the frame and rear suspension since I would use the other components on my future bike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-frontwhiskey9wheel.jpg  

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-imustprofile.jpg  

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-mcleodrearshock.jpg  

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-rearwhiskey9wheel.jpg  

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-wholebike.jpg  

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-lowgearcl.jpg  

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-tallgearcl1.jpg  


  14. #514
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    looks sweet Nash and very neat build.
    i will have a look at my chain line how mine looks,but i seriously cant see anything wrong with yours pal.
    One thing i would suggest.your tyres.Husker Du`s are great for snow,but not for trail raiding in summer.they have too much rolling resistance and also they are quite heavy.i would strongly suggest to get a pair of Schwalbe Jumbo Jim lite skins in 4".They are twice cheaper then Huskers,you will have better grip on your trails,Schwalbe are lighter too,weighting at 990gr vs over 1200grs of Huskers,and as such you will have better rolling resistance and will save your knee
    I like my one a lot.going to local trails tomorrow to have some fun.Had the same as you,with folks asking for a test ride and coming back saying that if i want to sell,they will buy it,but NAH not selling this one.Only one bike i would swap it against will be Haibike fullsix full suspension fatbike/ebike but they cost is just way too much and as such,i am sticking to my "Magura" fattie.

  15. #515
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    couple of questions Nash on your build.
    1.Is downtube of your frame painted black or the whole thing is white?
    2.What rims are you using and whats the width?Alu or carbon?
    3.did you weight your bike and what is the weight of your build?

  16. #516
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    Black Stripe all the way down
    Whiskey 9 Carbon 70 mm
    LBS weighed it yesterday at less then 32 LBS. Not bad for a FS Fatty
    Honestly I can't tell the difference between my 3" Chubacabra tires on my stumpy and Husker Du. They both roll real good.

  17. #517
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    awesome Nash.I went for alloy wheels as terrain i mostly ride has quite a few rocks and gravel so i was a bit worried for the carbon wheel set and rightly enough i had a few dings on my alloy wheels from previous rides and i think i made the right choice to go for alloy.Could off saved a few grams on carbon but will not work for me in this case.quite happy with my 33lbs total anyways,considering i do have the dropper seat on too.I am just back from local trail and we had another blast day.met another guy with a fat bike not full sus and obviously he had to try my one so thats another convert to a full sus after the trial of my one hahaha.
    Thats interesting on your frame as my one is completely white,including downtube.not that it makes a huge difference,but it seems that paint job gets done by a different companies.(who ever sells the frames ).Still its a darn good frame and deffo a bargain if you are into full sus fat biking.

  18. #518
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    Anyone know where to find this “rare” “hard to find” 120mm BB shell width Raceface crankset? All I can find online is the 100mm version. Thanks!
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  19. #519
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    You actually just need the bearings not the plastic tube thing in between. So even a 73mm BB will work just pull the shell off and put the bearing in. Provided they are the correct bearings for you crank.

  20. #520
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    CS-001 bike built with SNOWSHOE tires

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-cs-001-bike-snowshoe-tires.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-cs-001.jpg

  21. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    You actually just need the bearings not the plastic tube thing in between. So even a 73mm BB will work just pull the shell off and put the bearing in. Provided they are the correct bearings for you crank.
    OK. So what part number am I looking for? I just measured the LITERAL WIDTH side to side on the new PRC bike, it is 120mm on the frame, whereas on my Borealis Echo it is 100mm, and on my 2015 9:zero:7 it is also 100mm… yet they use the “same” cranks, but the overall width between the 9:zero:7 and the Borealis Echo is roughly 50mm.

    The crank arm on the non-drive-side is attached to the crankarm in a seemingly non-removable manner.

    Thanks, I don’t want to order something I cannot use. Seems I need something with a wider spindle, some special part# or something.
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  22. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leopold Porkstacker View Post
    OK. So what part number am I looking for? I just measured the LITERAL WIDTH side to side on the new PRC bike, it is 120mm on the frame, whereas on my Borealis Echo it is 100mm, and on my 2015 9:zero:7 it is also 100mm… yet they use the “same” cranks, but the overall width between the 9:zero:7 and the Borealis Echo is roughly 50mm.

    The crank arm on the non-drive-side is attached to the crankarm in a seemingly non-removable manner.

    Thanks, I don’t want to order something I cannot use. Seems I need something with a wider spindle, some special part# or something.
    This shows how to remove both arms.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNEel-bLAc8

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