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  1. #301
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    Hodag 27.5 x 3.8" VS. 4.5-4.8 "" 26 " Fat

    Fat or Not

    Both sets are fully loaded 5.5 kg. / 12.1 lbs. -> ready to ride.

    Driver is 90 kg / 200 lbs.

    Pressures are normally, 26" around 6-8 psi, 27.5" 10-13 psi.

    So weight/set in Hugo52+Hodag 27.5 is nearly same than my Nextie 65 + D5 studs, all tubeless.
    Ride with Hodags feels/ is lighter and faster when trail is hardback. Hodags have better response in corners and in many "technical ride" situations. Also grip in wet trails is a bit better than in Bud, Dunderbeist, BFL, Knard 3.8", etc.. that I have driven... I would say that foot print in Hodags is smaller and this way it has more grip. More weight / cm2...

    When trail is NOT hardback, I found wider tires (D5 etc.) lighter to pedal and bike is more ease to drive... And this is why I have both sets.. as here where I live We have the 4 different seasons..

    Also;
    Hodag 27.5 are less comfort in hard tail/fully rigid bike. But in full sus, You get more out from suspension etc. with Hodags.
    I wonder how much better would 65 mm carbon 27.5 rims be..? Or more than 60 tpi 27.5 tires... hopefully new ones will have better rolling when driven in low pressures... I my self do not see this as an issue as I always use +10psi. with Hodags.

    To really find differences between these, I need to test different sets more in summer. If I now would have to choose only one rim size, it would be 26 x 65 carbon. As there is so many different tires available and with 65 rim width one can fit many 4.6-4.8" tires in 170-177 rear...As I have none 4.0" tires and I only have 170 - 177 rear bikes..

    Hodag height is pretty much the same as Dunderbeist on a 65mm rim. --> So it´s a bit less than Bud. Weight is 200-300 g less than many grippy 4.6-4.8" tires.

    When trails dry out, and ice is gone, I will set up Barbegazi 4.7" & JumboJim 4.8" to Nexties.. And then this set is lighter than Hugo&Hodag...

    Fat Biker;
    Keep us updated on the rear axle coming loose please.
    Do you think this is a "defect" or just some other issue like not enough or strong enough loctite ?
    This is just a note, heads up... With drop of loctite etc. it´s fine.

  2. #302
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    Thanks Jukahia that was exactly the kind of info I'm sure many , including me , will be interested in.
    Glad the Loctite sorted your rear axle issue.

    Have you or do you plan to experiment with different rear Shocks / shock tuning other than switching to a coil as you said ? Do you think there is room for yet more improvement ?


    Fat Biker

  3. #303
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    Glad you got your bike.

    Mine still hasn't shipped. It's ********. Something Something tomb holidays. Broken promises again.

  4. #304
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    rekx did you have to do like me an send your frame back or you just never got yours to start with?

    I ask since I had a email exchange with Peter about when my frame was coming back and I mentioned that Jukahia was posting about his bike so I was hoping my was coming soon. From what Peter said sounds like Jukahia hit the curve just right since his frame was not one of those initially shipped so he got one of the first reworked ones. Where frames like mine that had to go back are further down the line.

  5. #305
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    Exciting, Jukahia! Glad to hear it's riding so smooth ... 11 days ago Peter said my frame should be shipped in early April. Hope so!

  6. #306
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    Mine got out the door but they caught it before it made it all the way to me


    Unless it's a different size, there's is absolutely no good reason the first run guys (us) should be getting their bikes after the second run guys.

  7. #307
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    Btw. Rear takes 4.8" JumboJim on 65 Nextie... Size 113 mm wide / 764 mm height. Just mounted @1.2 bar.

    Height room there is plenty, cs corner has 4-5mm clearance ... Chain clearance needs some tweaks to work on 1x11, but 1x10 with small tweaks is easy.

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-image.jpg

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-image.jpg

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-image.jpg

    This was just a test, but maybe in future.. As I know JJ 4,8" isn't fitting to my beargreases rear.. With 1x11. ## 1x11... Too "bad" I now have all gears xtr & xt 11-speed, as If I now would order new gears for my bikes, it would be 10 speed praxis(40-11) to get best clearance...

    Hopefully I get my bluto back from SRAM- service next week, so I could drive these... Barbi back and JJ front... And the ice would be gone from trails.

  8. #308
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    bit more info on the rear shock bushings. They have a width of 22,2 as Jukahia mentioned but make sure you get the diameter of 8mm since that is the size of the bolts supplied on the bike.

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    bit more info on the rear shock bushings. They have a width of 22,2 as Jukahia mentioned but make sure you get the diameter of 8mm since that is the size of the bolts supplied on the bike.
    Your frame is arrived?
    Last mail received from Peter report that mine will be shipped today...

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckycncc View Post
    Your frame is arrived?
    Last mail received from Peter report that mine will be shipped today...
    Yup I got mine last week.

    I'm getting my parts together, I am stuck (over analyzing) the fork.

    Do I go with the Wren or get a older used Manitou Dorado (reduce the travel)

  11. #311
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    Now that You have Your Fattysus. bikes, let´s see them..

    I have been testing different rear shocks, and now the winner is Manitou coil.
    I now also have two different tune Monarch 4.2 shocks, A and B. But both, I would say, for me these are lacking progression/rebound now... I do not know, what has now happened as the monarch were good in winter ( well it was colder) but now I can bump both shocks straight out. I have like 200-230 psi pressure, and I have fully stack LV can with reducer rims.

    I get like 10-15% sag, shock is hard on first 25% of stroke, and then the same.. + bottoming out.

    The B tune shock I already fully opened and chanced 3 Wt oil to damper body + a bit reduced IFP volume/put 275 psi pressure there. I think the Oil is too light now, next I will use 10 Wt and IFP setting by the book.. set to 65mm and 200 psi... maybe a bit more pressure still.

    Here is where I´m now;
    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-img_3404.jpg
    Coil is sweet, as it really eats all big/small hits & bumps so smoothly, but still has sensitiveness and I can pedal it like xc bike. (spv works + little tweaking in low speed compression damping). Down side is that coil is 900g heavy, and bike is 15kg / 33 pounds with it. I now use 550 lbs spring/coil, and I am 90kg/ 200 pounds. Will test also 500lbs spring when I get one.

    PS. RockShiss 120mm rct3 Fork, I got new from warranty, first solid and now klonking, after +50 miles on it, same as the last one... Every time I pull front up, klonkklonk...I guess these are just not meant to be 120mm, as there isn´t that sound when You have 15-25% of sag.

  12. #312
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    I'm still getting my parts together so no pictures of mine for a while.
    I always liked coil over they really are smooth, plus the get it setup and forget it is really nice.
    Last edited by KenPsz; 05-03-2016 at 06:19 AM.

  13. #313
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    Jukahia do you feel the bike needs a 120mm fork or would 100mm be fine match for the rear travel?

  14. #314
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    I am happy with 120mm and I would not reduce headtube angle...

  15. #315
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    Jukahia thanks!

    150mm Wren it is

  16. #316
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    Anyone know if these will fit 29+ wheels?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by josephjosephson View Post
    Anyone know if these will fit 29+ wheels?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Message #108 and #110...

    "26er x 4.0'' , yes, 29+ will fit"
    27.5+ 3.5''
    29+ 3.0''

    I'm waiting my frame, and I'll build a 29+

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckycncc View Post
    Message #108 and #110...

    "26er x 4.0'' , yes, 29+ will fit"
    27.5+ 3.5''
    29+ 3.0''

    I'm waiting my frame, and I'll build a 29+
    Awesome. Please post pics and details.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  19. #319
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    thread is dead?

  20. #320
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    dead? Why do you say that?

    We are all building our bikes.

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by josephjosephson View Post
    Awesome. Please post pics and details.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    The frame probably will arrive today.
    I need to build wheels and buy some other parts.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckycncc View Post
    The frame probably will arrive today.
    I need to build wheels and buy some other parts.
    Great. Good luck. Take your time. Took me from August until now to plan, design, order, build, and resolve all my issues lol

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  23. #323
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    My CS-001

    Hi,

    I'm a long time lurker. I bought a CS-001 from Peter Xu.

    I built it up this weekend with the following bits ->

    Wheels -> NEXTIE 65mm with Hope hubs, Floater Tyres
    Drive Train -> gx1400 cranks with 28th, XT m8000 gears 11-42 cassette
    Suspension -> 120mm Bluto rtc3, Cane Creek DBinline
    Brakes -> XT m8000 with R180mm and F200mm
    Seatpost -> 125mm stealth reverb

    Pics ->

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-2016-05-15-10.12.55.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-2016-05-14-13.55.23.jpg

    The only issue I had with the build was the lower crown race dragging on the frame. This made the steering drag, slight sanding all good.

    I need to get a shorter stem and a higher rise handle bars as the reach is slightly too long and the handle bars are slightly too low, making my left thumb hurt.

    I need to get some more KM's in to get the suspension sorted before I can truly comment on its performance. So far feels pretty good.

    Jono

  24. #324
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    Anyone build wheels using Peter's rims (or other carbon rims)?
    Do I need to put a washer between rim's hole and nipple to better transmit forces?

    Thank you

  25. #325
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    So I just built up my Full-suspension carbon fat bike from Peter (in China).... so was it worth the wait? ABSOLUTELY! I have ridden this two times now and it climbs like a beast. It also descends like my former Bronson. I know it sounds crazy, but with the fat tires and full-suspension, it corners and handles bumps like a dream. I built this up using an Enve Stem and their DH bars, Raceface Dropper post, HT pedals, Next SL cranks with XX1 and XTR brakes. I am running carbon 65mm rims and it weighs (with the Van Helga rear tire and Jumbo Jim for the front tire (both tubeless)) just under 29 lbs. I am running the Fox shock and Bluto front fork. I am thinking of switching to the 27.5 Lefty Carbon SuperMax to gain another 10 or 15mm of travel, but I am not sure yet because of logistics.
    If you are in the market for a fat bike or just an awesome bike that won't break your bank, I would highly recommend this. I don't work for the company and I did not get any special deals to write this, I just thought people may want to know how much of a fun bike this is and in my opinion how it climbs and descends like much more expensive bikes that weigh just as much. Peter was awesome at getting back to me with all of my questions and the customer service has been awesome! I was so skeptical buying an unknown brand from over-seas, but I think this is going to pay off big.

  26. #326
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    I built up the Nextie 65mm with my rig... that worked out pretty good so far. I used the bladed spoke and didn't have to use any additional washers btn the rim holes and the nipples.

  27. #327
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    I have a pair of his +29 rims - very nicely built. Didn't use anything special: aluminum nipples (no washers) and regular spokes. Have been bullet proof so far

  28. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jstolaro View Post
    I built up the Nextie 65mm with my rig... that worked out pretty good so far. I used the bladed spoke and didn't have to use any additional washers btn the rim holes and the nipples.
    Quote Originally Posted by Wig View Post
    I have a pair of his +29 rims
    Many thanks

  29. #329
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Finally working on my build

    Not too far yet...something to watch out for...got the Carbon Speed FHR80C Rims and found them to have a 530mm ERD as opposed to the stated ERD of 535mm.

  30. #330
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    I just sent Peter some pictures of my bike... I could not upload them myself here, so I emailed him... hopefully he puts them up here soon.

  31. #331
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    Very nice!

  32. #332
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    I have now got my comfort issues sorted now. With no pain and 150km covered this bike is a keeper.

    A bit of back ground on the bikes I currently own. I have the following ->

    Turner Sultan
    Wheeler Phoenix 312 (I think this is a fm190 frame)
    On-one fatty with bluto
    kinesis ff29

    Based on the bikes above the handling and suspension of cs-001 is really very good. The frame finish and quality is very good too.

    For people who are competent in assembling bicycles I would recommend this bike frame with out a doubt. Given the true availability of fatbike fs frames the cs-001 probably the only option in some countries, I'm from Australia and there is nothing available at reasonable price. The only frame I was considering was the Turner King Kahn, even though it was crazy expensive, but alas no longer being made.

    I would also like to add I would have no problems getting another frame from Peter, just wish he would make a 177mm hardtail fatbike frame with support for bluto and x2 gearing. Then I could replace the on-one fatty.

    Jono
    Last edited by LurkerJono; 06-02-2016 at 10:05 PM.

  33. #333
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    Hey Jono... I believe that the Cs-001 is set up with 177 rear and the Bluto Fork... I have that set up... (see my pictures). I love my bike, but I am changing out the forks next week and will be able to now put 140mm of travel on it for an "all-mountain" experience.

  34. #334
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    Hi Jstolaro,

    Sorry I was a bit vague. Meant to say "177mm hardtail fatbike frame with support for bluto and x2 gearing"

    Jono

  35. #335
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    It's cool... Check with Peter... he has a hard-tail version and you could probably throw the Bluto up front on it... I was debating the hard-tail for a bit, but then decided because of the hills of Southern CA, I would stick to the FS -- As I am not going to be doing any snow riding with this.

  36. #336
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    Here is mine, just back from the bike shop. For them to bleed the back breaks was cheaper than I could by the stuff.

    Ready to set the pressures on the Wren and give it a try.Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-20160603_170101.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-20160603_170136.jpg

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Here is mine, just back from the bike shop. For them to bleed the back breaks was cheaper than I could by the stuff.

    Ready to set the pressures on the Wren and give it a try.Click image for larger version. 

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    That looks great man! My buddy here is a rep for the Wren forks... (BTW, you should see their stem (lighter than my Enve Stem) -- and 1/4 the price too!) -- Anyway, your bike looks Sick with that Fork on it... I didn't know that you could run that fork... how much travel are you going to get out of it and how much does you bike weigh now?

  38. #338
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    That Wren is way better than the Bluto.... Way Better!

  39. #339
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    The Wren is set to 130mm of travel.

    I just took the bike around the neighborhood and OMG!!!!! Like my old Stinky Delux but better! The Wren feels like the fork I used to have on that bike. I was laughing at how it turns like a truck though, I can't wait to get this bike into the woods.

    Peter great job on the frame and a special thanks to Jukahia for being the first and suggesting parts.

  40. #340
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    hey Ken... What do you mean it turns like a truck? I am selling my Bluto and getting a lefty for mine... how do you like Wren fork? Pretty stout huh?

  41. #341
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    Those bike tires just want to keep going straight, so you can feel the resistance to turning. Not a big deal when you run 780mm wide handle bars. :-)

    So far the Wren is awesome, but I will know more once I get a real ride on the bike. But 3in curbs that fork eats them like they are not there.

    Stiff searing there is ZERO play in that front end.

  42. #342
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    I just ordered my Lefty... hopefully that will be about the same... stiff and no play. I too am running 780 bars. I am only on 65mm rims though... hopefully it will track ok. I will let you know when I get it built up again... and also post some pix. My hub won't be ready from Project 321 until next week, so it will be a couple of weeks before I get back up and running. Your bike looks great man!

  43. #343
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    Good looking bikes/builds you have. I like my own, and two weeks ago I pulled order on two new fox shocks... There is plenty on sale in one bike shop that has r c z letters on their name... I ordered 2015 Fox van rc M/M tune coil and fox float ctd; 2014, FLOAT-A P-S, CTD BV LV, 0.8 Spacer, VTF, RTM, 200, 16... Both together 260€ . Discount code, RCZFOX

    Coil because it's the shock that really works with this frame Imo. And are just good value.
    Air shock because I hope to find a light shock also that would work well! In this frame... I find many of differend air shocks to bottom out in this frame. I think it's because of spring curve is not linear... Shock turns upper/vertically direction in the end of stroke.
    It's like degressive.. It's also because I like to have sensitivity in the first 1/3 of stroke and firm 3/3.

    And what I have found is, that this frame does not ewen fit 200/50 shocks all that safe, as the seat stays arch will hit the seat tube under weight if you bottom out the shock... And it's worse with new 200/51 shocks. What I have done; add 4mm rubber bumb stopper more to coil shock, or reduce air shock travel by 3mm... In 200/51 travel new fox shocks.
    Also small volume air can would be best fit for me, but for 99€ for new float air shock I go with spacers/reducers and VTF tune as I found it cheap price...

    I'm also a bit keen to get Ti spring for the fox coil, but price/weight ratio (gained) is not that great... And would it really feel different than normal spring, as the sales guy says it feels softer. And I could loose 100g->too little for 135€ price... Sping would be Renton Coil Spring.. Any comments ?
    Also, For the suspension side, bluto will be the next to scrapt... Second fork, klonk it says when pulled up, opened it my self now, stuck down it were.. No air on negative side (reason for sound) and now stuck down four times last fife rides. And it's also flimsy and it vibrates while brakeing... I would like to try german:a flame, but it's 1,2k€
    Going to service this bluto again, and clean all stock crease away, as there is so small pressure channel in air rod etc. that I think it's stuck... Reason for stuck downs..

  44. #344
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    The Bluto (In my opinion) and everyone else i seem to talk to all agree that this fork is not very good at all... = to the Reba or very entry level fork. First of all, it is built as a 32, where with this bike and the weight of the rolling fatbike tires, it should at least be a 34 or even a 36.... The problem is that there is not a huge market (yet) for FB front suspension, but it is getting there... I absolutely hate my Bluto -- so far, that is my only complaint with a full-suspension fatbike... and that is not the FB's problem... it's SRAM's for making this product -- as to your problem... there are two different dampening systems you can use with the Bluto... the one like the Reba (which is junk) or the one like the Pike (which is very nice, but in a flimsy fork)... hope you get your issues worked out... the fork is a pretty important piece of one's bike.... and you should like it... it can make all the difference on the trail. By the way... I loved my previous FOX forks, so hopefully you will too.

  45. #345
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    Hi Jukahia,

    Quote Originally Posted by Jukahia View Post

    And what I have found is, that this frame does not ewen fit 200/50 shocks all that safe, as the seat stays arch will hit the seat tube under weight if you bottom out the shock... And it's worse with new 200/51 shocks. What I have done; add 4mm rubber bumb stopper more to coil shock, or reduce air shock travel by 3mm... In 200/51 travel new fox shocks.
    When I got my frame from Peter, I already had my 200mm x 50mm dbinline, the first thing I did is check that was no chance on the frame hitting itself with the shock installed. But after you comment above it got me worried so I went and checked again. I took some pictures (they are not the best)->

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-2016-06-05-11.18.59.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-2016-06-05-11.21.19.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-2016-06-05-11.21.31.jpg

    So on my frame (19 inch) using a 200mm x 50mm dbinline there is a good 10mm clearance in all areas.

    So not sure what is going on with your frame.

    Jono

  46. #346
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    With Fox van rc 200/51

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-image.jpg



    I have 17" frame
    Have not bottomed frame with air/spring on shock, but if I press with both hands I can get the st.arch to collide with seat tube. Now I had only one hand free.

    (shock is there only to take clerance photos, bolts, spacers etc. Are missing...)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-image.jpg  

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-image.jpg  


  47. #347
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    Seat stay arch to seat tube interference is certainly an issue. Even if I was running a slightly longer stroke shock like a 200x57 I wouldn't want to have worry about inference. It basically means that if the shock bolts failed or the seals blew out you crack your frame.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  48. #348
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    Wait.. you mean that the swing arm is actually hitting the seat stay?

  49. #349
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    Yep.... yep. Many issues can happen.

    What I was after, were that what tune/size air shocks are you running ? Size is 200x50 but novadays it's 200x51 and have You notice any issues..?

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jstolaro View Post
    Wait.. you mean that the swing arm is actually hitting the seat stay?
    NO, the arch above tire hits the seat tube if heavily pressed.

  51. #351
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    oh...well, won't the shock bottom out first... ??? Dang, I see how that can be a problem. I will have to look at my bike when I get it back next week or the week after. (it is in the shop getting the new wheel built and the lefty hub put on). I will call the guy who ordered the shock and see which one I got... I don't have the box anymore.

  52. #352
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    I got my first dirt ride in with this bike and WOW!!!! This is how a bike for fun should be. I has suspension like my old stinky deluxe with the climbing of my 29er Giant Anthem. I still need to work out fork and tires pressures a bit but I am really happy I built this bike.

  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    I, for one, welcome our new Chinese overlords.
    ...

  54. #354
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    The more I ride this bike the more I like it.

    The only change I would've liked would be to have the head angle a bit steeper so when I put the 130mm Wren on the bike it would not be so raked out.

    But great bike overall and people do make a lot of comments about the bike. Those that just like bikes find it cool those that are a bit more name brand based give snide remarks.

  55. #355
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    I was thinking that it was perfect because going downhill is the fun part and having more rake on the bike with those forks makes is way more stable. Personally, I would not have bought this frame if it was set up too steep.... the whole industry is going more slack.... but that being said, I am not riding snow, but rather more downhill single dirt tracks of southern Ca. I agree with people not giving it justice though because they don't see a name brand on it... I have had the fortune of having several top-end bikes and so far this is my favorite!

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jstolaro View Post
    I was thinking that it was perfect because going downhill is the fun part and having more rake on the bike with those forks makes is way more stable. Personally, I would not have bought this frame if it was set up too steep.... the whole industry is going more slack.... but that being said, I am not riding snow, but rather more downhill single dirt tracks of southern Ca. I agree with people not giving it justice though because they don't see a name brand on it... I have had the fortune of having several top-end bikes and so far this is my favorite!
    Oh I totally agree on the stability, but where I am there is more twisting single track that gets a bit "interesting" with that stability. I am having to relearn old motorcycle body English to make some turns.

    I would've (personally) liked maybe a 2 deg steeper for how I like a bike to feel. Then I would have the 130mm with a quicker response, but all personal opinion. I am not going to lower the Wren to 120mm I like how the 130mm works with the rear, so I'll just work with it(minor complaint anyway)

    I agree this is the best bike i have ridden to date.
    Last edited by KenPsz; 06-20-2016 at 09:41 AM.

  57. #357
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    Have you ever had another fat bike before?... this is my first so I have nothing else to compare it to as far as fat bikes, but I do love the way it rode and that was with my old fork... I just took off my Bluto Fork and am putting on a carbon supermax lefty fork... I got 135 mm or so of travel out of it after adjusting the axle to crown distance... I wanted that Wren fork, but was told that it would not have worked with my frame for some reason... so I had to take apart the wheel and get a lefty hub....bummer, because I like the Wren fork and it seems way stiffer than the Bluto. How do you like its bump compliance on the fat bike... pretty good?

  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jstolaro View Post
    Have you ever had another fat bike before?... this is my first so I have nothing else to compare it to as far as fat bikes, but I do love the way it rode and that was with my old fork... I just took off my Bluto Fork and am putting on a carbon supermax lefty fork... I got 135 mm or so of travel out of it after adjusting the axle to crown distance... I wanted that Wren fork, but was told that it would not have worked with my frame for some reason... so I had to take apart the wheel and get a lefty hub....bummer, because I like the Wren fork and it seems way stiffer than the Bluto. How do you like its bump compliance on the fat bike... pretty good?
    Nope never had a fat bike before, closest I can say I have been is a Stinky Deluxe setup as a AM. I had 150mm of travel on that bike and this bike steers a bit like that, accept for when all that rubber gets moving. LOL!! Man once those tires get rolling at speed they want to keep on rolling.

    I really like the Wren on this bike, I never bothered to ask if it would work before I put it on so I had no idea there might be an issue. The Wren very much reminds me of the older versions of marzocchi bombers (especially the one I tuned to spring weight and oil) when they were still good. Great that you can tune to how you want it to feel once you have the sag pressure set. Between the 3.8 tires and the fork small bumps or chatter are just not there and big hits are so much fun.

    The Wren is a great match for this frame (my opinion) so what was the reason given that the Wren would not work on the frame?

  59. #359
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    The Wren fork was sorta new when I was purchasing this frame from Peter... The frame style is designed around the Bluto fork but I wanted something a bit more stout... I rode my buddy's Foes Mutz and he had switched over to the that Wren Fork from the Bluto and what happen was it had lifted his bike up and changed the angle a bit... then originally Peter was having issues with this frame that we bought and I had to send my frame back to him and was told then by the Wren guys not to put that fork on my old frame b/c they thought it could crack the head tube area... now our frames are much thicker and beefier so it probably is not even an issue now, but I had already purchased the lefty fork, the hub and the adapter kit... I wish I could have just slapped the Wren Fork on it and been done with it... anyway, I will get my bike back from the shop next week with the lefty on it and hopefully I will like it much more than with the Bluto fork.... by the way, have you seen the Wren Stem.... it is so light and strong... I think it weighs the same as my Enve Carbon stem at 1/3 the price!!! My same buddy just put that on his Mutz too and it is a great stem.

  60. #360
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    Their stems are nice but my bars are a 35mm clamp so they will not work.

    That makes sense as to why they told you not to put it on. At this point (crossed fingers) I have had no issues and I ride the frame pretty aggressively, plus I am 230 so in no way a light weight on the bike.

    Your information explains why the head angle is the way it is and if I went down to 120 that would be more around what the frame was designed for.

  61. #361
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    That is cool that it is working out for you... there are not a lot of options out there for a 4" tire in the way of forks.... so long as it doesn't lift your bottom bracket to high, I think that that fork you are using is a great option... I am only 165 lbs...so it would have worked out for me too. I already have my wheel torn apart and lefty fork or I would have totally gone your route -- what type of drive train are you running?

  62. #362
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    I'm running a Shimano 11 speed cassette, shifter and derailer, sram chain, Race Face Aeffect Cinch Fat Bike Crank Black 170mm, Race face 28 tooth ring.

    I need to lookup the bottom bracket since it is a 28mm bearing.

    Also put on a bash guard which I got to use this weekend going over a fallen tree.

  63. #363
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    Has anyone actually run 29PLUS on this frame yet?

  64. #364
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  65. #365
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    Has anyone had any problems with their headsets not working properly on the frame? I had the Bluto fork on this and could not get it to steer without totally loosening up the headset beyond there being some play. So, I switched forks and went with another CaneCreek 110 bearing set and the same thing is happening... I lift the front tire off the ground, shake the handlbars and I can feel wiggling in the headset somewhere...like the bearings aren't seeding properly or something... Either too tight and won't steer, or too loose and there is excess wiggle. Anyone else running a CaneCreek or experience this with their bikes? Thanks for any reply...

  66. #366
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    I have a 29+ hard tail Chinese carbon frame wirh probably a similar internal headset setup and had issues. I replaced the bearings (after destroying my first set by getting water in the head tube while washing the bike due to a poor seal) and ran into the same problem again. I had play that I couldn't get rid of. I eventually took it to a shop to have them fix it. They moved one of my spacers to above my stem and got it to tighten properly. I didn't get a chance to talk to the mechanic so I'm not sure what the issue ultimately was, but it was well worth my $20 to have a pro take care of it (even though I really wanted to solve the problem myself).

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jstolaro View Post
    The Wren fork was sorta new when I was purchasing this frame from Peter... The frame style is designed around the Bluto fork but I wanted something a bit more stout... I rode my buddy's Foes Mutz and he had switched over to the that Wren Fork from the Bluto and what happen was it had lifted his bike up and changed the angle a bit... then originally Peter was having issues with this frame that we bought and I had to send my frame back to him and was told then by the Wren guys not to put that fork on my old frame b/c they thought it could crack the head tube area... now our frames are much thicker and beefier so it probably is not even an issue now, but I had already purchased the lefty fork, the hub and the adapter kit... I wish I could have just slapped the Wren Fork on it and been done with it... anyway, I will get my bike back from the shop next week with the lefty on it and hopefully I will like it much more than with the Bluto fork.... by the way, have you seen the Wren Stem.... it is so light and strong... I think it weighs the same as my Enve Carbon stem at 1/3 the price!!! My same buddy just put that on his Mutz too and it is a great stem.
    Hope you like the Lefty. They're not only perfect for situations where clearance is a concern, they're probably much stiffer than noodly Blutos, especially the Supermax...not to mention they're so cool looking from the drive side

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  68. #368
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    Thanks so much man. I thought I was going crazy! I had an FSA, then a CC 40 and then I spent a small fortune on a Cane Creek 110 and it is still doing it! I had to cancel my first ride today on it with the new lefty... such a bummer! Happy 4th man, and thanks for the post... I will drop it off at the bike shop again tomorrow!

    PS... I totally agree with you on the Lefty!

  69. #369
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    So I am thinking about putting a dropper post on this bike but I am really confused how you figure out what length of dropper to get.

    I am running 185mm of stem now anyone have an idea what that translates to for something that would fit on this bike?

  70. #370
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    WOW! 185mm stem? Or is that the length of your steerer tube?

  71. #371
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    I don't think English is the first language there.

    The proper term for length of exposed seat post is just that "exposed seat post."

    If you're running 185mm of exposed seat post, then you can get away with a 150mm dropper. The top bushing of most dropper seat posts is somewhere between 20-40mm, making the total length of a 150mm dropper like the Reverb around 180mm when fully inserted.

    Personally, I'd size down a bit and go with a 125mm dropper, just in case in the future you want to swap the post to another bike.

    My suggestion for a brand/model is the Giant Contact SL or the Cranks Brothers Highline, but have user-replaceable cartridges that you can get spares for, and you won't need to send the post off to the manufacturer or local dealer for rebuilds.
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmes View Post
    WOW! 185mm stem? Or is that the length of your steerer tube?
    Sorry seat post length. I had the term stem stuck in my head for some reason.

    PHeller thanks for the info that is what I was looking for.

  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Has anyone actually run 29PLUS on this frame yet?
    Finished to build last night


    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-wp_20160710_10_53_58_pro.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckycncc View Post
    Finished to build last night


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice...but boy does that clearance look tight

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  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by josephjosephson View Post
    Nice...but boy does that clearance look tight

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Can't post a pic now, but from rear tyre to frame there are about 10 mm (on diameter) and 25 mm of clearance on sides; I can mount also mudguard. The fork can support up to 3.4, so there are no problems.
    The bike is very funny to ride

  76. #376
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    This bike is totally amazing...it was totally worth the wait. Handles like a dream! I'm blown away how the suspension stays active while pedalling yet it does not bob at all. Tons of fun!

  77. #377
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    pmes I totally agree with you, this is now the only bike I am riding in the woods.

    Is always nice when the payoff was worth all of the trials we went through to get these frames.

  78. #378
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    leverager ratio

    Is anyone interested in the leverage ratio for this frame?

    I had some time today so extracted the frame dimensions from the 19inch frame PDF Peter sent me. When extracting numbers from a PDF it is not always 100% accurate.

    Anyway the result confirms what I expected and that it has rising ratio(edit this is also call falling ratio?). So I think I will add some volume reducers to my DB inline

    I read that is was assumed that at zero wheel travel and shock stroke the ratio would be 2.24. As this is a table of ratios, 0 divide by 0 is not a calculable.


    see -> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Division_by_zero

    So I add 1mm of initial wheel travel to check this assumption


    CS-001-leavage ratio.pdf


    So you can that the intial ratio is actually about 2.27 not 2.24

    Sorry for being "nerdy"

    Jono
    Last edited by LurkerJono; 07-13-2016 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Additonal numbers due to divide by 0 + poor spelling

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by LurkerJono View Post
    Is anyone inserted in the leverage ratio for this frame?

    I had some time today so extracted the frame dimensions from the 19inch frame PDF Peter sent me. When extracting numbers from a PDF it is not always 100% accurate.

    Anyway the result confirms what I expected and that it has rising ratio. So I think I will add some volume reducers to my DB inline.

    Attachment 1081476
    Hello,
    I think that You meant to say it´s falling rate... I inserted numbers to exel and curve looks like this...
    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-ratio-cs001.jpg

    This also confirms my observations with different rear shocks.

    Coil shock: feels smoother in beginning of the stroke.
    Air shock: is harder that coil, needs quite high pressure to operate correctly. (Firm but does´t bottom out)

    You need good progression to shock to work & medium to hard tune.
    At least @ my weight (200lbs.)

    I have now:
    -15 Fox van Rc medium/medium with Ti 500lbs coil ( really good feel ) could say that best fullsus. feel I have had..
    -14 Fox Float ctd bv LV; 0.8 spacer, VTF, RTM ( feels firm, but really good to pedal and takes hits also) Will try 1.0 spacer ( max for this shock) to get a bit more sensitivity for first half of the stroke.

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jukahia View Post
    Hello,
    I think that You meant to say it´s falling rate... I inserted numbers to exel and curve looks like this...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This also confirms my observations with different rear shocks.

    Coil shock: feels smoother in beginning of the stroke.
    Air shock: is harder that coil, needs quite high pressure to operate correctly. (Firm but does´t bottom out)

    You need good progression to shock to work & medium to hard tune.
    At least @ my weight (200lbs.)

    I have now:
    -15 Fox van Rc medium/medium with Ti 500lbs coil ( really good feel ) could say that best fullsus. feel I have had..
    -14 Fox Float ctd bv LV; 0.8 spacer, VTF, RTM ( feels firm, but really good to pedal and takes hits also) Will try 1.0 spacer ( max for this shock) to get a bit more sensitivity for first half of the stroke.

    Now that I have even a bit think what I inserted there.. I made a "small" correction...
    As before I used X axis values directly from file... Now these are as common linkage ratios are; 0-3. Sooo, now it seem like flat rate as it also feels with air shock...

    What I also have noticed, shock turns upright in the end of stroke, and it is something that makes air shock adjusting pretty hard. I think it's because of spring curve is not linear/flat all the way, as shock turns upper/vertically direction in the end of stroke.
    It's like "degressive". -> This challenges Me to get air shock adjusted the way I want, because I like to have sensitivity in the first 1/3 of stroke and firm 3/3. But I would say that I am pretty close.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-ratio-csoo1-0_3.jpg  

    Last edited by Jukahia; 07-12-2016 at 03:30 AM.

  81. #381
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    The more I tune my bike the better and better I am liking it. I just put and absoluteBlack 26 tooth oval ring on the 11 speed and it makes this bike climb awesome.

    Now just need to see if a dropper post adds anything.

  82. #382
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    A snag with installing the 120mm dropper post. :-(

    I have short enough legs that i need to insert the whole lower portion of the dropper into the frame, but it will not slide in. It stops around 40mm from where I need it to go, that is because lower in the frame you can see re-enforcement that has thickened the walls.

    So looks like I will need a 100mm dropper since the lowest I can get the seat post is 240mm where I need around 190mm showing.

    So I have a nicely bleed externally routed 120mm Sram Reverb that needs a home.

  83. #383
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    So an interesting parts failure today, I sheared the drive side main pivot bolt in half. I think it has been broken for a bit, but today really noticed that when i tried to pedal uphill my cranks where hitting the rear triangle. So tried to tighten the bolt on the trail but it only spun so came home took the rear apart and found the problem in the picture. The broken drive side and the unbroken non-drive side.

    The bolts are hollow and only around 2-3mm in thickness which does not seem to be enough for a 230lb rider that is a bit aggressive. So I have sent the info to Peter and waiting to hear back about a new part.

    I will definitely be reinforcing the insides of the next bolts with some aluminum rod.

    All standard stuff for me breaking parts being a bigger aggressive rider.

    Update:
    I heard from Peter and parts are on their way.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-pivot_bolt.jpg  

    Last edited by KenPsz; 08-28-2016 at 09:16 AM.

  84. #384
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    eCarbon

    If you think it is okay for a 70 +year old to ride an ebike on mountain bike trails, then read on.

    Another bike wasn't really needed in the garage, ebike or otherwise... but if a “last bike” was to be constructed for an old guy and truly be the “last bike” built, it needed to be special.

    Timing is everything and after many months of shopping a NEW carbon full suspension frame that was large and strong enough for 6’-4” geezer showed up. The frame from XM Carbon Speed In Stock! CS-001 newest full suspension fat bike frame 26er for 177*12mm axle - Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd fit the parameters because its lower frame spacing would allow the motor to be mounted above the crankset. That is not saying the current favorite Purple Mountain bike with a Bafang BBS-HD is not awesome, but the BBS-HD motor slightly below the crankset does some dirt excavating and bark trimming a little too often.

    The chance to buy carbon parts “directly” from persons with excellent online reviews was a deal not to pass up. It was good to find out that all good things said about Peter and Bella at XM Carbon Speed were true. They answered questions promptly and carefully packed/shipped the frame fast. The frame fit and finish is excellent and it was easy to mount existing components from other bikes to XM with no issues. The wheels are of equally excellent and are easy setup for tubeless. It would be more honest to say the wheels were actually exceptional, as they were the easiest 4.5” tubeless setup ever installed. Using only one layer of 75mm Orange Seal tape and 46mm valve stems, they actually held air for over a day before adding the liquid sealer (don’t use goralla tape, it is too heavy and thick) FHR80C-35mm 2016 Super tough Carbon Speed - Fat Club 80mm fat bike rims 80mm width 35mm depth - Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd

    Someone may be saying this excellent bike is being ruined by adding an electric motor? That is much easier to say if you are not over 70 with years of too many crashes. Luna Cycles sells a Cyclone 3000 motor that offers the flexibility necessary to build the inside frame configuration. Although motor has more power than needed, custom mounting brackets would allow the motor to be mounted inside the frame for better ground clearance. The package is topped off with 52 volts with 16 amp hours of HobbyKing LiPo Multi-Rotor Drone batteries installed in a hydration backpack. The backpack without water is only about 14 pounds and the bike rolling weight is less than 48#. Which is excellent for a large 21” frame full suspension electric mountain having 4.5" tires with a motor cranking out more torque than an old 250cc dirt bike. The motor could handle 72 volts, but that power could make it a unicycle rather than a woods bike.

    Bottomline, the strength of the XM Carbon Speed full suspension fat bike frame combined with awesome Cyclone power this may be the ultimate geriatric
    mountain bike.

    See picture of the eCarbon and the Purple Mountain it updates

    Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-cyclone1sm.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-welcheshdsm.jpg
    Last edited by exi; 08-28-2016 at 11:27 AM. Reason: typo

  85. #385
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    If you ever need to get a replacement for the main pivot bolt while waiting for a replacement from China here are the specs:

    12mm x 35mm x 1.5 (thread)

    Not a easy bolt to find BTW, most metric that size has a thread of 1.75.

  86. #386
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    Thanks,

    Do you know where I can source a couple with the proper button head?

    FYI, Peter said in an email that he won't sell me a bolt until mine breaks! They really must be hard to find... and that surprised me because he was very helpful when i was buying a frame and wheels.

    If I had thought about it I should have specified extra bolts when I purchased the spare derailleur.

    I wonder if other frame sellers have the same size bolt and would sell me a couple. If you don't know of a source I may try contacting other frame sellers

  87. #387
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    I never could find a button head I ended up with a standard hex head from Lowes.

    I am going to keep looking and maybe have some custom built.

  88. #388
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    I may try contacting other eBay seller and ask them where to obtain these bolts. I suspect that a Taiwan source maybe where they are made specifically for bicycles

  89. #389
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    Apparently I misunderstood Peter as he was offering me a bolt if mine broke when I asked about broken bolts.

    Peter will sell spare bolts

    Which is good because I break a lot of stuff and I like having all my toys operational NOT waiting for parts

  90. #390
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    Cool-blue Rhythm Great bike for 29+ Full Suspension

    I ordered the cs-001 frame from Peter and built it up with 29Plus tires and carbon rims. I just finished two long rides on some challenging trails and the bike is really nice. I loved it.Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-29plus-new-bike.jpg This is an efficient pedaling frame but has a nice plush ride. Overall, the geometry is nice. However, I would prefer the seat post angle to be steeper on my Xl size frame. I built it up with a Fox X2 shock and am still playing with the settings. (I found out you can bottom the frame onto the rear 29+ tire, but, I can tune the shocks compression to control that.) I also used the SRAM Eagle drivetrain and the 10x50 is awesome. Shifts really nice and now I have more top end speed without giving up the low end granny. I used the Manitou Magnum fork. The whole bike weighs about 30 pounds with a dropper post and pedals.

  91. #391
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    Hi . Ethics and values aside. I have been looking at getting one of these chinese carbon full suspension fat bike frames. they seem to be sold from a lot of different places and under many different names .one looks slightly different from the other .I'm wondering what is the one to go for as far as build quality goes? Are they from different factorys or is one simply the older model? Any difference between them other than the appearance at all please Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-518889441.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-screenshot_20161006-232425.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-screenshot_20161007-071456.jpgChinese carbon full suspension fat bike-screenshot_20161007-071520.jpg
    Last edited by Sammwize; 10-06-2016 at 11:27 AM.

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sammwize View Post
    Hi . Ethics and values aside. I have been looking at getting one of these chinese carbon full suspension fat bike frames. they seem to be sold from a lot of different places and under many different names .one looks slightly different from the other .I'm wondering what is the one to go for as far as build quality goes? Are they from different factorys or is one simply the older model? Any difference between them other than the appearance at all please Click image for larger version. 

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    The top frame looks to have a better frame design

  93. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by traditiionalist View Post
    The top frame looks to have a better frame design
    The top frame does look stronger around the swing arm pivot point and the chainstay gard is a good idea. Though the bottom one does look lighter and it appears to have better stand over . Keen on some facts but hard to get when dealing with China eh? .

  94. #394
    exi
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    I have two full suspension frame from Peter and they are holding up to the obnoxious power put out by 3000w Cyclone motors...Which is a lot more than a human could put out AND at higher speeds.... like downhill riding all the time

    Worth consideration may be bottom bracket width and dropout spacing...
    A 100mm BSA bottom bracket proved be ideal for me but the 177mm rear dropouts required new wheels... which WAS good because 177mm is giving a better chain line than my 190mm/197mm spacing bikes...

  95. #395
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    The new 2017 models are 197mm rear and fit 4.8 tires. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Carb...308.0.0.U4fyui Chinese carbon full suspension fat bike-htb1n3iqkvxxxxboapxxq6xxfxxxs.jpg
    Marin Bobcat Trail 29er - Trek Farley 8

  96. #396
    exi
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    That is a different manufacturers frame than xm and I expect it has a 120mm bottom bracket.

    FYI the 177mm spacing on the XM full suspension frame handles studded 4.8" snow tires. Not sure if 2016 vs 2017 matters as much as mold design

  97. #397
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    I think that white Most is the bike that bottoms out and cracks the frame.
    Saw it on Lamere's website.
    LaMere Cycles Custom Carbon Bicycles
    Totem KDS-D fatbike, Brompton M2L-X Ti, 6kg Dahon Dove, 1998 GT Forte Ti road bike

  98. #398
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    I would like to know more about the frame that Lamere is showing that failed? i have some questions about that. I find it hard to believe that a frame company would build a bike and spec a shock that allows this to happen. Now if the shock mount failed and then the frame broke that is understandable. I would like to know if the correct shock was used and what they were doing when it broke.
    Last edited by Jefflinde; 10-07-2016 at 08:31 PM. Reason: damn auto correct

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    I would like to know more about the frame that Lamere is showing that failed? i have some questions about that. I find it hard to believe that a frame company would build a bike and spec a shock that allows this to happen. Now if the shock mount failed and then the frame broke that is understandable. I would like to know if the correct shock was used and what they were doing when it broke.
    I would like to understand more about this broken frame too. Are they trying to say the the rear brace hit the frame and cracked it? Name:  d47f84_539a688f14d041029796441ed476dd34~mv2.jpg
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    Marin Bobcat Trail 29er - Trek Farley 8

  100. #400
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    Llevant claim to have personally had there version of this frame reinforced with extra carbon in the weak points of this chinese frame.unfortunately that has put the price up to $3000 nz around $2200 u.s .they claim to be so sure that the problems are fixed that they offer a life time warranty on there version. I'm not convinced that the extra $1000 is needed personally I'd like to see the factory model be made up to a higher spec if there is indeed a problem. I'm not keen on spending such a high price as llevants frame version
    Name:  315smBMg+TL._SY400_.jpg
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    Last edited by Sammwize; 10-08-2016 at 10:03 PM.

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