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  1. #3201
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post
    So got in a 2nd ride on the carbon fatty. Was riding it hard today and all is well! Seems like the bike is very well made and my fear of is exploding on me is slightly going away. Was way more aggressive today on it and loving it! I still wish I got a set of carbon flat bars due to the riser bars a bit higher then id like. No more wacky headset creaking / popping so headset just needed to be really snugged up.

    I did notice the seatpost really needed to be torqued down for it not to slip I normally just use carbon paste and 4nm of torque but I am having to bring the bolt to 5nm via the ritchey torque key with a ton of carbon paste for it not to slip. Other wise all good with the build!
    Don't forget to rub a layer of waterproof grease on the seat post/frame junction to prevent water from washing away the carbon paste. I known some guys who zip tie a piece of inner tube to help seal out water.

  2. #3202
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    Got a solid ride in today on the fatty! Really starting to love it! The seatpost clamp is still giving me a hard time, I had to snug it up on the start of the ride and checked it during the middle. I think it might be time to put some lock tight on the bolt to keep that mofo in place! Other wise all is good, the bike is handling very well, the carbon wheels are holding up nicely to lofting over stuff and ruff sections. No more strange sounds coming from the headset so far so good!

    One thing I will say is the carbon stem and bars and turning out to be great. I have ridden other MTB's with wide carbon bars and they felt supper stiff. Well these chinese bars are on par! I went with 720's to avoid clipping them like I sometimes do on my 740's+. They are stiff out of the saddle while climbing or sprinting and the stem is stiff as well. I was worried it be a bit mushy but very impressed with how they feel on the trails.

    Im still running the Fat B Nimbles on the bike but I might swap them out for my snowshoe 4.7's or H-billies 4.25's. The Fat B Nimbles are solid tires but I kind of wanna see how a wider tire sits on those carbon wheels!

    I did have to add some helicopter tape on the head tube and fork to protect it from cable rub. After my last two rides I noticed it was already starting to make marks in the frame. Nothing major but if I didnt nib that in the butt now it would have starting eating away at the finish. I had a bunch of it left over from using it as my down tube protector. Gotta say well worth it, I have kicked up a larger stones that went flying into the DT and that tape helped to take the impact / not leave any marks.

  3. #3203
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flawless Cowboy View Post
    Ain't this the truth about the seatpost...

    Dumbass story from three-ish weeks ago:

    -Nate
    Im sorry, but l had a good laugh at this, mainly because l do the same dumb shit as well
    always mad and usually drunk......

  4. #3204
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    I'm considering getting a sn01 as my first fat bike but I'm still fuzzy on the 120mm Bb issue. What bottom bracket and cranks are people sourcing for it ?

  5. #3205
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    Quote Originally Posted by uk gearmuncher View Post
    I'm considering getting a sn01 as my first fat bike but I'm still fuzzy on the 120mm Bb issue. What bottom bracket and cranks are people sourcing for it ?
    Get the Raceface Turbine Cinch cranks for 190mm rear (or Next SL with 190 spindle if you want lighter cranks). Bottom bracket is Raceface BSA 30mm. You can get any size because you won't be using the sleeve anyways (none are long enough).

    I have those cranks on my SN01 and they work great.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  6. #3206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    Get the Raceface Turbine Cinch cranks for 190mm rear (or Next SL with 190 spindle if you want lighter cranks). Bottom bracket is Raceface BSA 30mm. You can get any size because you won't be using the sleeve anyways (none are long enough).

    I have those cranks on my SN01 and they work great.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
    Thanks, that's really helpful. Are there any good cheaper options ? (I'd be using a 1x10 single ring drivetrain).

  7. #3207
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    One other question for someone, should I be considering the Bluto fork to improve performance for the SN01 ? I might do the odd race on it. Its standard XC stuff so nothing too knarly. Most guys I've seen running fat bikes are still running stock rigid forks.

  8. #3208
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    I don't really think a (suspension) fork is really necessary on a fatty at all.
    I'm 185ish, and with 6psi up front and 8 out back, she goes pretty much where I want her. You won't be able to descend like a downhill bike, but it's a small trade off for me.
    But as they say, different strokes...

  9. #3209
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    Quote Originally Posted by uk gearmuncher View Post
    One other question for someone, should I be considering the Bluto fork to improve performance for the SN01 ? I might do the odd race on it. Its standard XC stuff so nothing too knarly. Most guys I've seen running fat bikes are still running stock rigid forks.
    My one fatty has a bluto with 120mm of travel and its so not needed. While I will say its fun as heck and lets me bomb down stuff at stupidly fast speeds and reckless it gives no more performance gains then a ridged fork. You will climb better with out a fork but go faster on the downs. But even then with a fat bike having such low PSI is all you really need. I have one with a fork and all my others are ridged / staying that way. Fork is also nice for when it gets icy from the hikers foot prints in the winter and even then not needed just nice to not feel like a jack hammer on some sections.

  10. #3210
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    I started with a rigid fatbike and rode it with all different tire pressures. It was fine in the snow. However when I rode it on single track in the summer, I couldn't stand the abuse it exerted on my body.

    I got rid of that bike and got a fatbike with bluto. Immediately notified the difference and loved riding it on single track and snow. I would never go back to rigid on snow or dirt.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  11. #3211
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    Can anyone here respond to this request for these chi-carbon fat frames?

    1. 68-ish degree head angle
    2. 430-445mm chainstays
    3. 197mm rear thru axle

    Looking for all these parameters in one frame if possible! Or something non-carbon even?
    14 GT Zaskar 9r
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  12. #3212
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Can anyone here respond to this request for these chi-carbon fat frames?

    1. 68-ish degree head angle
    2. 430-445mm chainstays
    3. 197mm rear thru axle

    Looking for all these parameters in one frame if possible! Or something non-carbon even?
    Ican SN01 fits the bill:

    http://www.icanbikes.com/html/MTB/Fa...ml#bk_desc_tab


    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  13. #3213
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    Anyone know who makes the biggest frame at this point?
    I'm 6'6" and wonder if there's a frame out there that would fit the mark.
    The sn01 only goes to a 20".
    XXL Spesh FSR 29er | Custom Ti roadie by Triton | FM190 build in progress

  14. #3214
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    Check the fm190

  15. #3215
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    Pretty sure 21" is the biggest frame you'll find in Chinese carbon.
    You may need to look at a name brand.
    always mad and usually drunk......

  16. #3216
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    Chinese Carbon fatty-20151010142873117311.jpg

    Has anyone bought/Built one of these from Peter? looking for a build/ride report.

  17. #3217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joben View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Has anyone bought/Built one of these from Peter? looking for a build/ride report.
    Frame is not out yet for delivery, only pre orders so far.

  18. #3218
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    Can someone recommend a frame that can handle 5" tires mounted on 90mm Nexties (150front and 190/197 rear), but still have clearance between the crank & chain stay for 1x11?

    I have the ICAN SN03 and the XX1 drivetrain doesn't quite clear when the dirt builds up even a little (I even went with 170mm cranks & a Q168). I also have 4mm spacers on the drive side and 3.5 on the non-drive.

  19. #3219
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    Would a gxp spiderless chainring help. If the ring were flipped so it's offset moved the chain away from the tire

  20. #3220
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post

    only thing that freaks me out a bit is running a full carbon bike. Sounds and creaks over log piles just make me cringe but then again things flex and sound travels big time in the carbon.
    Shouldn't be any creaking. Try plumbers Teflon tape on the bb threads. Also, apply a little park lube to the inside of the thru axle mounts on the frame, mine devolved a creak on peddling and I narrowed it down to that. As far as the headset, the free one they send has a junk top half. I kept the bottom and got a cane creek 40 top and all has been nice and tight.

    Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  21. #3221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rango View Post
    Can someone recommend a frame that can handle 5" tires mounted on 90mm Nexties (150front and 190/197 rear), but still have clearance between the crank & chain stay for 1x11?

    I have the ICAN SN03 and the XX1 drivetrain doesn't quite clear when the dirt builds up even a little (I even went with 170mm cranks & a Q168). I also have 4mm spacers on the drive side and 3.5 on the non-drive.
    This one: CS-N019 26er full carbon fat bike frame frame 150*15mm/190*10mm QR/197*12mm axle - Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd

  22. #3222
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    Quote Originally Posted by devans View Post
    120mm rides perfect on an 18inch CS-18 frame! short 50mm stem and 760mm wide bar means lots of control
    How's the stand over height? I'm looking at the same setup and can't find any info. My last bike was a Salsa Mukluk but when I added of the Bluto it was to tight for my 30 inch inseam.

  23. #3223
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    What's the best place to pick up a 21" FM190 these days? I've picked up parts from various China vendors but none of them carry the 190.
    XXL Spesh FSR 29er | Custom Ti roadie by Triton | FM190 build in progress

  24. #3224
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    I'm a happy owner of a SN-01 and I wonder if we can install a internal dropper post ? I don't remember if we can run a cable from the down tube to the seat tube...

  25. #3225
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    Quote Originally Posted by valexe View Post
    I'm a happy owner of a SN-01 and I wonder if we can install a internal dropper post ? I don't remember if we can run a cable from the down tube to the seat tube...
    If you look back in this thread to ~March, l believe it has been done with a hydraulic dropper
    always mad and usually drunk......

  26. #3226
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Frame is not out yet for delivery, only pre orders so far.
    Quote Originally Posted by Joben View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Has anyone bought/Built one of these from Peter? looking for a build/ride report.
    Does anyone have idea of headset cup sizes for CS-001 fullsus. fat? I know it`s 1 1/8" & 1,5" fork, but what cane creek Head Set it takes ? 44&56 or what ? What diameter bores there normally is, in carbon speed frames... And is it fully integ.. or semi... Peter has given me the answer of tapered fork sizes now three times..Name:  cubs.JPG
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  27. #3227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jukahia View Post
    Does anyone have idea of headset cup sizes for CS-001 fullsus. fat? I know it`s 1 1/8" & 1,5" fork, but what cane creek Head Set it takes ? 44&56 or what ? What diameter bores there normally is, in carbon speed frames... And is it fully integ.. or semi... Peter has given me the answer of tapered fork sizes now three times..Name:  cubs.JPG
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    I don't have any actual knowledge of this partucular frame but I can't see why it would be any different to any other Chinese frame. Most of them are is41/is56 its up to you how tall of a top cover you choose (from the Cane Creek site). Failing that if you ask Peter will send you the correct headset which you can take to any LBS to get measured to buy a better quality one. For the extra $10 when buying the frame it's hardly worth thinking about. Plus you'll have a spare to keep you rolling.


    Fat Biker

  28. #3228
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    Yep, Peter delivered drawing.

    It`s FSA No.42 integrated tapered 1-1/8'' - 1-1/2'' headset

    Name:  HS.JPG
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    Inner Diameters are;
    Upper 42 mm
    Low 52 mm
    INTEGRATED

    Im going to use 40r Cane Creek;
    IS42/28,6 short
    IS52/40

    As I have the "same" 40r cane creek in other fat, so I can fit the same bluto to that If I want..

  29. #3229
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    Some pictures of CS-010 frame and complete CS-010 bike

    And some 80mm wheels and 100mm wheels were shipped to the US today.

    first batch of CS-001 FS frames will be shipped out next week.

    Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd

    petercycles@foxmail.com

    Chinese Carbon fatty-cs-010-complete-bike-1.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-cs-010-complete-bike-2.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-cs-010-complete-bike.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-cs-010-frame-1.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-cs-010-frame.jpg
    Chinese Carbon fatty-img_0223.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-img_0225.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-img_0226.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-img_0227.jpg

  30. #3230
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    Cs-010

    Did the frame require any additional spacers to accept the Bluto?

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterXu View Post
    Some pictures of CS-010 frame and complete CS-010 bike

    And some 80mm wheels and 100mm wheels were shipped to the US today.

    first batch of CS-001 FS frames will be shipped out next week.

    Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd

    petercycles@foxmail.com

    Click image for larger version. 

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  31. #3231
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    Thanks for the heads up. How's the saddle and seat post working out?

  32. #3232
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterXu View Post
    Some pictures of CS-010 frame and complete CS-010 bike

    And some 80mm wheels and 100mm wheels were shipped to the US today.

    first batch of CS-001 FS frames will be shipped out next week.

    Xiamen Carbon Speed Sport Goods Co.,Ltd

    petercycles@foxmail.com

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Awesome!!!
    --Peace

  33. #3233
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    I mentioned a long time earlier, that there are no drain holes in the SN01 frame, someone mentioned they had drilled one in, how'd it go?
    any bad news?
    did you go through the aluminium (bb) as well? (see pic)

    Looking at the pic l took (before l cleaned it ), it would make more sense that the aluminium part be turned 180 degrees, allowing water to move away from the bb bearings. Thats why l ask about the hole in the aluminium as well. The water can basically just sit in the aluminium 'cup', and therefore the bearings.



    I ask as l ride in wet and/or muddy conditions often, at the moment l clean the bb & bearings every ~500kms, and its always full of water/mud
    always mad and usually drunk......

  34. #3234
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    I mentioned a long time earlier, that there are no drain holes in the SN01 frame, someone mentioned they had drilled one in, how'd it go?
    any bad news?
    I don't have one of these frames, but I wouldn't hesitate to drill a small drain hole in the bottom of the BB.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  35. #3235
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    If you're constantly getting stuff accumulating in the BB, you should seal the points of entry. Since carbon frames don't typically have vent holes, the most likely culprits are internal cable routing holes and possibly water leakage past the seatpost. A little silicone sealer on the cable routing holes will seal them, but still allow the cables to be removed without major effort. A liberal coating of grease or carbon paste between the post and frame should take care of any leakage there. If there are any unused mounting holes, such as for water bottle cages, make sure that they're plugged.

    Once you've sealed the leak points, you should see a dramatic drop in the accumulation in the BB. If you still feel the need, you can drill a drain hole, but remember that it's a two-way street; it can also let water and such into the frame if the BB is submerged for any length of time.

  36. #3236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnystrom View Post
    If you still feel the need, you can drill a drain hole, but remember that it's a two-way street; it can also let water and such into the frame if the BB is submerged for any length of time.
    If you are submerging your BB for any length of time you'll be servicing it anyways so who cares about water draining in or out of the shell?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  37. #3237
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    Has anyone purchased a "complete" china carbon fatty? Like this one, based on FM-190 frame:

    26er Carbon Fat Bike Frame Fork Wheel thru Axle 197 BSA Matt Tire 4 0" SRAM X7 | eBay

    Or (also FM-190)
    High end new hot sale 26er carbon fat with disc groupset, View fat bike frame, Baolijia Product Details from Shenzhen Baolijia Sports Equipment Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

    I like the FM-190 because of 150/197 hub spacing, relatively smaller q-factor and fitting Bud/Lou, but not crazy about chainstay length. Any other fatty that fits Lou/Bud/2XL Snowshoe in the rear, without doing crazy q-factor and shorter chainstay? Who has Lou in back of SN01?

  38. #3238
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    Having put a few hundred miles on the fm190, chainstay length is hardly an issue. Forgive my ignorance and laziness, but how much shorter is the other Chinese frame??

  39. #3239
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    I'd sell my Motobecane Boris for this new bike. Boris's CS is 467, FM190 is 468. It's an area I've identified for improvement for my new fatty.

    SN01's CS is 445. But can a Lou fit in the rear?

  40. #3240
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    Quote Originally Posted by valexe View Post
    I can confirm that a Lou on a 90mm rim (tubeless at 9 psi) goes in a SN01. It's a tight fit, but it's a fit !

    Attachment 955044
    Found my answer. And I had thought I read this whole thread!

  41. #3241
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    It fits there, but it'll certainly rub when cornering and whatnot.

  42. #3242
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    I'm looking around and it is hard to keep all the models straight and it seems like if one has a particular feature I'm looking for it doesn't have the other.

    Can someone point me to a fat bike frame, 16 or 17" probably, that has 197/150 hub spacing and a relaxed head angle. about 68 degrees give or take. 69 is too steep and unacceptable for the type of riding intended. Seems like the ones with slack head angles all come with 135mm forks, but I suppose that a seller could swap a different fork in?

  43. #3243
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    Just finished reading the entire thread. Most of my questions have been answered.
    I've ordered up a 21" FM190 frame with 85mm wheels.
    Do you guys mind taking a look at my build spec to make sure I didn't goof on any parts.
    The first pic in my shopping list from Jenson.
    They also list a complete XX1 fat bike build kit for a decent price but I thought I read somewhere that the XX1 cranks don't work well on the 197 rear?
    Any reason to go with the XX1 over my build kit?
    Thanks in advance.



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    XXL Spesh FSR 29er | Custom Ti roadie by Triton | FM190 build in progress

  44. #3244
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    Anyone found a 3rd party derailleur hanger that fits the Ican SN-01 frame or equivalent? The ones that are sold by Icann are absolute junk. I've bent two just by laying the bike over.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  45. #3245
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    Bunyan, According to Sram's website the xx1 crank is for 170 rear spacing bikes. The chainline is 66.5 mm which is too narrow for a 190 / 197 spaced bike. It did only mention 30 and 32 tooth rings and the package you posted showed a 28 tooth ring. Maybe that can be flipped , like Race Face cinch systems. I would check that out before I bought the xx1, assuming your frame is not a 170 that is.
    I have a cinch 170 crank with a flipped 26 tooth ring on my Yampa, which has a 190 / 197 rear. The chainline is about 76 and it works perfectly. Good Luck
    Latitude 61

  46. #3246
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    sryanak, thanks for the feedback. I thought I read that back in the thread somewhere about the XX1.
    I've seen it mentioned a few times where the tooth ring is flipped on the cinch. Does that mean the ring isn't flat and one can adjust the chain line?


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  47. #3247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bunyan View Post
    Does that mean the ring isn't flat and one can adjust the chain line?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You are correct. The chain ring is not flat. If you have a 190ish rear end on your bike and a 190 appropriate spindle on the crank the chainring is run logo side out which offsets the teeth in a bit. If on the other hand you have a 190ish rear end but a 170 appropriate spindle run it logo side in which offsets the chainline out a bit for the correct chainline for the 190 rear end. This allows for a narrower spacing of the pedals but may not have much clearance between the crank arms and chainstays. My bike has plenty but ymmv.
    Latitude 61

  48. #3248
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    I've read on here that the SN01 can handle the Lou / Bud combo on 90mm wheels but does anyone know if they work with 100mm wheels? Shoulda paid more attention to this before ordering everything! If they wont I'll just go with the specialized ground control 4.6. Thanks

  49. #3249
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    I've been working with Linda, close to pulling the trigger on this SN-01 complete bike. $2748 with shipping. Any thoughts?

    2015 Golden fat bike - Shenzhen ICAN Sports Equipment Co., Ltd.

  50. #3250
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    Hi.... i'm french and I follow your topic since few days, I want to buy one Chinese fat bike frame... iI like the FM079 sold by Q2cycling and Yishunbike

    FM079 BB30/BSA 26er Snowbike Fatbike Carbon Bicycle Frame [FM079]

    FAT BIKE FRAME
    Chinese Carbon fatty-26er-carbon-fat-bike-frame.jpg
    What do you think about these two companies ?
    one of you Has already bought this frame ? what is your opinion about this model ?
    Thanks

  51. #3251
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tips-Up View Post
    I've been working with Linda, close to pulling the trigger on this SN-01 complete bike. $2748 with shipping. Any thoughts?

    2015 Golden fat bike - Shenzhen ICAN Sports Equipment Co., Ltd.
    I think you can build a better bike yourself for cheaper.

  52. #3252
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    Chinese Carbon fatty

    Received my FM190 in great condition.
    Paid last Monday and received today. 1 week!
    The frame came so fast I haven't even had a chance to order the drivetrain.

    I noticed my frame didn't have any of the wires sticking out like some others have received. It does look like I have internal cable routing already built in for both cable for gears and a thicker hole for brakes.

    Rear spacing was right at 197 at the dropouts (thruaxle).
    Now it's hurry up and wait for the rest of the parts.

    Chinese Carbon fatty-imageuploadedbytapatalk1447124146.426953.jpg
    Last edited by Bunyan; 11-09-2015 at 07:55 PM.
    XXL Spesh FSR 29er | Custom Ti roadie by Triton | FM190 build in progress

  53. #3253
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    Has anyone tried Snowshoe 2XL in a Chinese fatty?

  54. #3254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tips-Up View Post
    I've been working with Linda, close to pulling the trigger on this SN-01 complete bike. $2748 with shipping. Any thoughts?

    2015 Golden fat bike - Shenzhen ICAN Sports Equipment Co., Ltd.
    will you need to pay import taxes/duties?

    Quote Originally Posted by Chippertheripper View Post
    I think you can build a better bike yourself for cheaper.
    Chipper is correct

    I have the same bike except with these differences: XT Shifter & Derallieur, SLX Cassette & Chain, Full SLX Brakes, 2x Ground Control 4.5 tyres, 2x ChaoYang 4.9 tyres and 2x spare tubes, I ended up throwing the carbon Handlebar and Stem (because of the flex) and replacing them with Aluminium ones.

    All in all it came in about $400.00 cheaper

    and you have the fun of building it yourself
    always mad and usually drunk......

  55. #3255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chippertheripper View Post
    I think you can build a better bike yourself for cheaper.
    Agree! Mine come out to be like 1850-1900ish I wanna say and I changed a few things around or it would have been 1750 flat.

    I added a 30T ring vs the 32 it came with, H-Billies, OneUp Kit. It came with X7 Rear and shifter, Elixer 5 brakes and all the same stuff your has but for way cheaper. Its not painted but thats not worth the extra coin for me. Maybe if it was XTR or something super awesome but not for deore and paint.

  56. #3256
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    She quoted UD matte (no paint) for same component spec at $2,048 + 4.4% paypal.

    I've ordered 2 bikesdirect bikes (Boris fatty, $300 rigid singlespeed 29er) and have had great success "assembling" them. However, I don't have experience (or tools) to build from scratch, without spending $500 at the LBS - and I don't think they'd be thrilled to see me bring in thou$ands of dollars of bike for them to put together. So I thought maybe a complete bike would be more comfortable for an aspiring wrencher as myself.

  57. #3257
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    If a LBS wants 500 bucks to build a bike for you then turn and run the other way! Most shops are like 100 beans to build a bike if you have the parts. If you mean tools all you would need is to bring your fork to the LBS to have it cut once you mark it. The internal cable for the rear brake would need to be run and other then that you can build it with a 5nm ritchey torque key for 20 bucks off amazon and some allen keys. I WOULD if I was you ask if it is coming pre assembled. They might have the bike mostly put together to save on shipping. Mine came in two boxes, one wheelset other frame/parts mostly built up. Even still 2k is a bit high, My friend got one with all X9 for under 2k for his. He did have an issue with his headtube coming smacked up but they did send him out a new frame for what its worth.

  58. #3258
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    Did you mean Ican's 90mm rims?

  59. #3259
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    This one went together with some good stuff and is well under 2k as seen. I think 2100 total once the nextsl's show up.

  60. #3260
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chippertheripper View Post


    This one went together with some good stuff and is well under 2k as seen. I think 2100 total once the nextsl's show up.
    Nice looking bike Chipper.
    Any idea on the weight of that fine looking beast please ?
    Particularly digging the blue. Wish I'd had more imagination for my build than the boring black n red now


    Fat biker

    P.S. Is that seat safe ? Would / could you not be better off if you pushed it back and got a shorter stem ?

  61. #3261
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    Chinese Carbon fatty

    The seat has been fine for a few hundred miles, it's not forward of the lines on the rails. The stem is already 60mm, so there isn't much more room for wiggle there. It's more about my mega sized ass being on top of the cranks.
    Bike is 26lbs on the nose as pictured. And the blue is left over silliness from my Minnesota 3.0.
    I had actually prefer the black/red, but the blue was the only thing they had in stock at the time so in sheer desperation I told them to ship it last winter.
    After all that, and building this new one, I wish I'd gone for blue rim strips, because the spoke nipples are really hardly noticeable.
    Last edited by Chippertheripper; 11-12-2015 at 05:08 AM.

  62. #3262
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    Nah ! The blue looks fine buddy. Better than black n red any day IMHO .

    When mines complete I'll maybe post pics. Slow build process though


    Fat Biker


    P.S. 26lbs ain't a bad weight either

  63. #3263
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    Nah, it's light enough certainly.
    I went out last week for a little experiment. Monday I ripped a local 9mile loop at a constant effort (on my racey 27.5 hardtail). Thursday I did the same thing and tried to match the same effort on the Hong Kong Phooey and see where I landed. My avg heart rate for the two rides was 1 Bpm apart. Trail conditions were identical. The temp was about 10f warmer the day I rode my race bike.
    I was 35seconds slower overall on the fatty.
    It's a good whip.
    So good, I'm going to sell the hardtail frame and build a 100mm full squish to race, and keep the fatty for general rigid type shenanigans.

  64. #3264
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian0789 View Post
    If a LBS wants 500 bucks to build a bike for you then turn and run the other way! Most shops are like 100 beans to build a bike if you have the parts. If you mean tools all you would need is to bring your fork to the LBS to have it cut once you mark it. The internal cable for the rear brake would need to be run and other then that you can build it with a 5nm ritchey torque key for 20 bucks off amazon and some allen keys. I WOULD if I was you ask if it is coming pre assembled. They might have the bike mostly put together to save on shipping. Mine came in two boxes, one wheelset other frame/parts mostly built up. Even still 2k is a bit high, My friend got one with all X9 for under 2k for his. He did have an issue with his headtube coming smacked up but they did send him out a new frame for what its worth.
    Disagree
    I've build lots of bikes from scratch and this is on the more involved side. I'm about half done building my SN01 with my own parts, not theirs. Here are the tools I think you'll need depending on your build. All sized of allen keys from 2-8mm for shifters, brakes, grips and crank, Torx key for brake bolts, bb tool to install bb, hacksaw to cut the steerer, chain tool, cable cutters, brake bleed set up and maybe misc parts, drill to enlarge internal cable routing guide. This is my first internally routed frame and it is a pita, deal with the cables first.

    On the plus side I haven't found any insurmountable problems. So far the only thing I'm displeased with is the style of the thru axles. Both front and rear thread into loose nuts that seem easy to lose. I'm thinking of using a little silicone caulk to hold the nuts in place so they don't get lost when removing the wheels. Does anyone else have a better solution?

    Should be done by tomorrow depending on when the tubeless tape comes and my work day. I'll post pictures.
    2 wheels

  65. #3265
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    The cables on my bike went slick as baby poop. $500 to build a bike is outrageous.

  66. #3266
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    Quote Originally Posted by artnshel View Post
    drill to enlarge internal cable routing guide. This is my first internally routed frame and it is a pita, deal with the cables first.
    drill what?
    my SN01 didnt require drilling to route the shift cable or brake hose
    always mad and usually drunk......

  67. #3267
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    I've got an sn01 at the house and 100mm carbon wheels coming. I've realized I can't run the bud/lou combo I bought so any thoughts on what tires to get? I'm thinking the ground control 4.6's?
    Last edited by bncrshr77; 11-12-2015 at 02:44 PM.

  68. #3268
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    Ground Controls are 4.5s or 4.0, l have the 4.5s and they are great
    always mad and usually drunk......

  69. #3269
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    Ground Controls are 4.5s or 4.0, l have the 4.5s and they are great
    I just snagged some GC 4.6's and they should get here about when my wheels do! Cant' wait to get this sn01 built!

  70. #3270
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    Ground Controls are 4.5s or 4.0, l have the 4.5s and they are great
    Ah no, they are 4.6. Or at least that is what it says on them. What the actual size is I have no idea.

    Specialized Bicycle Components

  71. #3271
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    SN01 barely fits a Lou rear on 90mm rim

    Quote Originally Posted by bncrshr77 View Post
    I've read on here that the SN01 can handle the Lou / Bud combo on 90mm wheels but does anyone know if they work with 100mm wheels? Shoulda paid more attention to this before ordering everything! If they wont I'll just go with the specialized ground control 4.6. Thanks
    Before ordering I had the impression that a Lou would fit in back but I've discovered that it's a much tighter fit than I'd like with 90mm carbon rims from Ican. The hairs of the edge knobs touch the chainstays.
    It's about 28.5 lbs and I'm excited to ride it!
    Chinese Carbon fatty-2015-11-13-07.27.44.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-2015-11-13-07.28.57.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-2015-11-13-07.26.49.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-2015-11-13-07.26.12.jpg
    Last edited by artnshel; 11-18-2015 at 02:07 AM.
    2 wheels

  72. #3272
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    Dang that is close even with the 80's... Sure wish I woulda paid more attention to wheel size when ordering but I got trigger happy when the Ican add said max 4.8 tire! Ohh well, looks like the ground controls are what I'm using because I'm sure as heck not buying another set of wheels anytime soon! Thanks for the pics and clarification!

  73. #3273
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    Way back in this thread there are a couple of folks running 100mm blutos, and they say all is fine, but the bluto only fits the M & L, on the S frame the crown hits the downtube.
    So if you need a smaller frame l would do some searching.........

    I cant forsee any issue with Juggernauts in the SN01
    always mad and usually drunk......

  74. #3274
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    Aargh, I've read the whole thread and even took notes. The one thing I know I saw that I didn't write down was who makes a 21" frame with a 170mm rear. IIRC it was basically the same geometry as the Dengfu FM190 but with a narrower rear. For the life of me I can't find it now. Anyone know what it is?

  75. #3275
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    This info I also posted elsewhere, but is valid in this thread as well (I think)

    The two quotes are just for the info/history

    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    Has anyone pulled one of the rear wheel hubs apart?
    Specifically the ICAN hub, l have some play in the freehub, and lm on holidays for another week (at least) with this bike, want to know whats involved in pulling it apart.

    I currently have 2 options:
    ..pull it apart hoping l have the tools to fix it, which l doubt l do
    ..ride it anyway and see what happens, although l dont think this will have a good outcome

    Im riding trails as well as beach while lm here.
    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    mmmmmm....its not the cassette as l already had that off, l know its in the freehub, but l dont have the tools for that...unfortunately.
    Im thinking l need the two 17mm wrenches, which of course are only ~800kms away

    so lm up sh!t creek without a paddle, think lm gonna just ride it (carefully...) while l can and try to fix it when we get home.....will keep you updated, worst comes to worst its a new hub & spokes l spose.
    Quote Originally Posted by cmg71 View Post
    So, my 90mm rims came with the six pawl hub, 4 of those pawls were 'stuck' down, therefore all the force when pedalling was on two pawls which happened to be next to each other, this in turn puts all the force on one side of the freehub bearing, which is of course not good.
    The bearing is on its way out, and the shop had none, but they cleaned it all up so all the pawls are again engaging and the freehub spins nicely again, now that the force is evenly spread out the play from the bearing is hardly noticeable, will see today how it goes

    All that cost me a total of 10 euros, reckon it cost more in petrol to drive to the shop.


    So the freehub has been good up until this week (luckily a new one is on the way), and today l pulled it apart, 5 of the pawls were stuck down, which puts all the pressure on one side of the bearings, anyway as l already knew the inside bearing was not 'so good'.
    These two pics show the level of play, l could move the inner race about 2-3mm, in the pics the inner race is moved down and then upwards




    While l was testing how much play there was the inner race just fell out into my hand, then things got real interesting, the bearings and cage were easy to get, but l didnt expect what l saw next

    inner race, cage and some bearings.....



    notice the balls are broken in half...... every ball was like that.

    Well this bearing causing the play, pretty much stuffed the pawls and area around them, the pawls were getting stuck due to the damage shown:



    the body of the freehub between the pawls has been contacting the toothed area inside the hub, this has damaged the pawls and gaps between them, so they get stuck down and the spring for them also gets stuck.



    The 'teeth' inside the hub all look good, so l guess the freehub is made weaker as it can be replaced.

    Now l hope the new freehub arrives soon, my next race is in a week.

    I will attempt to work on the freehub, new bearings and some filing, and bring it back to a useable state, will report back on how it goes.
    always mad and usually drunk......

  76. #3276
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    I admire your tenacity. I'd have broken out the dykes and cut that hub right out of the rim.

  77. #3277
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    I had the same issue with the hubs that came with my ican 65 rims. I'm on my second freehub and that one is failing in the same way. I have a new dt swiss hub sitting in my house that I plan on replacing the hub with once it completely fails. I hope I can get through the winter on the old ones.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  78. #3278
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    I had the same issue with the hubs that came with my ican 65 rims. I'm on my second freehub and that one is failing in the same way. I have a new dt swiss hub sitting in my house that I plan on replacing the hub with once it completely fails. I hope I can get through the winter on the old ones.
    Did you replace the whole freehub assembly with an ican one or one that was compatible ?

    What I would really like to know is did you try to replace the bearings with better quality / harder wearing ones ?

    I'm trying to ascertain whether this is a basic hub design fault or if it's just garbage bearings that are causing the failure issues people are seeing.

    It would be nice if these Chinese fat bike hubs could be made more durable by a simple bearing swap. Or possibly a steel freehub swap.


    Fat Biker

  79. #3279
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    I just replaced the whole freehub. I haven't checked the bearings. I was getting deformation of the pawls on the freehub and the area around it like in your picture.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  80. #3280
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    I suggest that you take the time to trim the whiskers off the edge lugs if you intend to keep that tire on the bike. Carbon fiber abrades very easily and all it would take is a little dirt or mud to make the whiskers abrasive enough to damage the frame. You may also want to apply something more abrasion resistant to the contact areas, even though that will reduce the clearance a bit more. Wrapping it with tape will work if you replace it as it wears. It might be possible to apply a layer of metal "muffler bandage" tape that you can find in auto parts stores. Here's an example: Amazon.com: VersaChem Exhaust System Repair Tape (82009): Automotive

  81. #3281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Biker View Post
    It would be nice if these Chinese fat bike hubs could be made more durable by a simple bearing swap. Or possibly a steel freehub swap.


    Fat Biker
    my thinking is that some good quality bearings will fix this issue, or shift it somewhere else.......

    which is why l will try to 'rework' the worn out hub, and order better bearings.


    As said in another thread though, $60 delivered for a new freehub after a bit more than 2000kms is something l can live with.
    always mad and usually drunk......

  82. #3282
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flucod View Post
    Where do you guys find the the 2 1.5mm spacers to run the cinch cranks on a 120 BSA BB, thanks
    My Turbine Cinch crank came with all of the necessary spacers. There were two wide ones and two thin ones, the former being for use only with 100mm BBs.

  83. #3283
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnystrom View Post
    My Turbine Cinch crank came with all of the necessary spacers. There were two wide ones and two thin ones, the former being for use only with 100mm BBs.
    Same here. I used two bottom bracket spacers on each side on my 120mm bb and the two thin spacers (one on each side) that came with the crank.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  84. #3284
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    Has anyone built up a Carbon-Cycle frame? I am looking at these as they have a steeper HA and also shorter stays. I kinda like my bikes on the twitchy side. But i am not sure what kind of clearance i would get in the back. i wan to be able to run bud/Lou or a 4.8 JJ. any help would be awesome. link below for the frame i am looking at

    19 5? 26er Carbon Fat Frame Bike thru Axle Chain Guard MTB UD Matt 4 8" 197mm | eBay

  85. #3285
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    Has anyone built up a Carbon-Cycle frame? I am looking at these as they have a steeper HA and also shorter stays. I kinda like my bikes on the twitchy side. But i am not sure what kind of clearance i would get in the back. i wan to be able to run bud/Lou or a 4.8 JJ. any help would be awesome. link below for the frame i am looking at

    19 5? 26er Carbon Fat Frame Bike thru Axle Chain Guard MTB UD Matt 4 8" 197mm | eBay
    That looks like the same frame as Ican SN-01. Lots of people have built that one up.

    Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

  86. #3286
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    head angle and seat stays are different. I have looked at the SN01 but i don't like a head angle that slack.

  87. #3287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flucod View Post
    Did the SN01 come with the rear thru axle? If not, where did you get one from, just checked my supplier and they only have a SRAM maxle in 197 and it is not available until next year.
    Have you tried ebay? They usually have through axles. Googling fat bike through axle gets a few hits as well.
    Latitude 61

  88. #3288
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    No idea, sorry.
    Latitude 61

  89. #3289
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    My SN01 came with both thru axles
    always mad and usually drunk......

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    I don't see the geometry anywhere but am interested as the only other one I've seen I. A 21" also is the dengfu fm190 or others of the same mood. Its stays aren't what I'd call short though.

  91. #3291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jefflinde View Post
    Has anyone built up a Carbon-Cycle frame? I am looking at these as they have a steeper HA and also shorter stays. I kinda like my bikes on the twitchy side. But i am not sure what kind of clearance i would get in the back. i wan to be able to run bud/Lou or a 4.8 JJ. any help would be awesome. link below for the frame i am looking at

    19 5? 26er Carbon Fat Frame Bike thru Axle Chain Guard MTB UD Matt 4 8" 197mm | eBay
    I have one. I can't answer any of your clearance questions as mine has fatbnimbles right now. I'll put fatter sneaks on when the white stuff flies. I wouldn't really call it twitchy, but it's a fat bike. It was pretty intuitive to get used to on my end.

  92. #3292
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    The carbon-cycle frame has only 17.3 in cstays, which in my mind, would fit up to a 4.5 inch tire. I wonder what size fork makes the head angle come in at 69.5? Like the short stays and hoping a 120mm Bluto will slaken it up to 68 or less degrees. Anyone running this frame with a 100-120mm fork that can confirm ha?
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  93. #3293
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    So I built this Dengfu FM190(197mm) frameset up after receiving it recently. My Bluto wont quite fit as the Lockout on the crown will just catch the underside of the Down Tube.
    Very impressed with all aspects of the sale and the frame/fork quality is first class. Weight is 11.5kg ready to ride :-)Chinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-004-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-012-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-008-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-017-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-005-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-006-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-013-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-007-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-009-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-019-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-018-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-015-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-016-medium-.jpgChinese Carbon fatty-custom-carbon-mamalard-014-medium-.jpg

  94. #3294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bnystrom View Post
    I suggest that you take the time to trim the whiskers off the edge lugs if you intend to keep that tire on the bike. Carbon fiber abrades very easily and all it would take is a little dirt or mud to make the whiskers abrasive enough to damage the frame. You may also want to apply something more abrasion resistant to the contact areas, even though that will reduce the clearance a bit more. Wrapping it with tape will work if you replace it as it wears. It might be possible to apply a layer of metal "muffler bandage" tape that you can find in auto parts stores. Here's an example: Amazon.com: VersaChem Exhaust System Repair Tape (82009): Automotive
    I think this was directed to me, if so, thanks. I switched from a Lou to a Bud in back for less rolling resistance but it's the same size so I will follow your advice and cut the hairs. I also have some frame saver patches I can use. Am I making a mistake running with so little tire clearance? I assume snow will stick to the tire and then rub off on the chainstays I know it will create a little bit of resistance but I'm hoping it won't be bad.
    2 wheels

  95. #3295
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanesbw View Post
    So I built this Dengfu FM190(197mm) frameset up after receiving it recently. My Bluto wont quite fit as the Lockout on the crown will just catch the underside of the Down Tube.
    Very impressed with all aspects of the sale and the frame/fork quality is first class. Weight is 11.5kg ready to ride :-)
    Love the color scheme. Did dengfu do your paint? Killer build

  96. #3296
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanesbw View Post
    So I built this Dengfu FM190(197mm) frameset up after receiving it recently. My Bluto wont quite fit as the Lockout on the crown will just catch the underside of the Down Tube.
    Very impressed with all aspects of the sale and the frame/fork quality is first class. Weight is 11.5kg ready to ride :-)Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Custom Carbon Mamalard 004 (Medium).JPG 
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    That's one nice looking build right there. Congrats buddy.


    Fat Biker

  97. #3297
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    That's a good looking bike. Too bad about the bluto. You built a winner! Definitely a top five build on the thread. If I wasn't 6'7", that's what I would have gone for. I'm a little bit jealous.
    H

  98. #3298
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    Chinese Carbon fatty

    I love the orange. Don't hate me if mine turns into a creamsicle too.
    I missed the boat on an orange road frame and I've been kicking myself ever since.
    That, and as a ktm rider/racer I bleed orange.

  99. #3299
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    Yeah both the orange and gold color looks real nice.

    For the frames that have internal cabling, are the cables making noise each time you hit a bump, my Crux has internal cabling and it would make a clinking noise each time that I would go over any obstacles.
    Also, am looking on getting a frame but noticed most companies BB are BSA but would prefer a BB30. Did read many pages last night but didn't find one that was actually making them with a BB30, they're using the BSA and are they as good as BB30?

    Thanks

  100. #3300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nash04 View Post
    Also, am looking on getting a frame but noticed most companies BB are BSA but would prefer a BB30. Did read many pages last night but didn't find one that was actually making them with a BB30, they're using the BSA and are they as good as BB30?
    What makes you think you want BB30?

    Both BB30 and PF30 have well-known problems with creaking and bearing failures due to less than perfect alignment. OTOH, BSA is solid and reliable. Companies like Race Face and E*Thirteen are making BSA cranks with 30mm spindles, so there's no disadvantage to BSA.

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