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Which chain lube for winter riding?

13K views 48 replies 31 participants last post by  Nothing's impossible 
#1 ·
So I've got my first fatbike and done a couple of snow rides and am starting to wonder what chainlube to run. My Fatback's chain seems to have come very well greased, I'm guessing that it is still the packing lube on the chain but seems to be working fairly well (I've never run an FSA chain before, maybe they just throw a lot more lube on it at the factory). I personally will be riding between 5C (41F) down to -10C (14F) in fairly humid snowy conditions, but I'd also like to hear recommendations for colder, drier conditions too.

My current lube collection is pretty wide thanks to trips to IB as well as trail finds. Here's a list;
Boeshield T9 (my fave)
Prolink Gold (heard good things but haven't used due to issues with plastic bashguards)
Squirt
Pedro's Chainj
Pedro's Icewax
Finishline Krytech
Finishline Crosscountry
White Lightning Epic, and Cleanride.

I'm going to test out what I've got, but any input/experiences from those of you with a few seasons under their belt would be appreciated!
 
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#3 ·
I use squirt, myself and like it a lot. I normally apply it at the end of my ride (or right after washing the bike) so that it dries before I ride it. You have to keep it indoors or it will freeze.

I've used Prolink in the past, but didn't like the black gunk that it left on the chain. I also used Icewax many years ago, but found that it wore off quickly, often mid-ride. Squirt is much better IMO.

I think that I have used Finish Line wet a few times when riding in wet conditions. I don't ride much in the wet as it just tears up the trails here.
 
#18 ·
I've used Prolink in the past, but didn't like the black gunk that it left on the chain..
The black gunk is the remains of the stock grease coming out. ProLink has a solvent base that eats through previous lube. If you thoroughly clean your chain ahead of time in some mineral spirits, then the ProLink goes on clear and stays that way throughout its use. Only downside of ProLink is that it's thin and doesnt last long, and it eats through rubber and plastic.
 
#6 ·
I used to use Finish Line Cross Country and loved it until I found Chain L. I wouldn't use it in dry but in wet and snow and cold I haven't found anything better. I only have to lube my chain once or twice during the winter and it simply does not wash off when riding in snow like all other lubes (including cross country) I've tried
 
#23 ·
There are summer and winter grade bar oils. I would guess people are diluting the summer grade oil which gets thick and stringy when its cold. Winter grade should work without diluting. The other great thing about the bio-degradable bar oil (other than it is slightly more environmentally friendly) is that it works well both in winter and summer.

Phil Wood Tenacious Oil is basically summer grade bar oil.

I prefer Tri-flow most of the time since I like to clean the salt off of my chain a lot in the winter. If I think its going to be wet or a long ride I might use Pedro's Syn Lube. These lubes can easily be applied when the bike is outdoors, wet and cold. I think most fancy bike lube apply best indoors when its warm and with a little more care.... with that said, I bet T-9 would be great for winter, I miss that stuff.
 
#24 ·
There are summer and winter grade bar oils. I would guess people are diluting the summer grade oil which gets thick and stringy when its cold. Winter grade should work without diluting. The other great thing about the bio-degradable bar oil (other than it is slightly more environmentally friendly) is that it works well both in winter and summer.
Ahh, that would be the reason I have never understood the point in diluting bar oil. I have simply never had anything but the bio version.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Magura :)
 
#25 ·
The black gunk is the remains of the stock grease coming out. ProLink has a solvent base that eats through previous lube. If you thoroughly clean your chain ahead of time in some mineral spirits, then the ProLink goes on clear and stays that way throughout its use.
Not in my experience. The chain was degreased with carb or brake cleaner. Black gunk appeared throughout the life of the chain when using ProLink. YMMV.
 
#32 ·
I've been a fan of Rock and Roll, and it works well at low temps. The problem I've found with wax based lubes is that you can't reapply while the chain or lube is cold. After slushy rides or things like the Arrowhead 135 I've found the chain unhappy and I have to bring the bike (or at least the chain) indoors to warm up before lubing.

I might test out the AmsOil+thinner of some kind for a lube that could be applied at below zero...
 
#36 ·
I found myself without a bottle of lube this summer and a bike that had been ridden hard and put away wet, but I did have my chainsaw in the van. I pillaged it for some bar lube, it worked fan-freaking-tastic. I was not aware that it was a common practice. I just bought a heap of rock and roll, but glad to hear that people use bar lube regularly.....good work. Eat food, chop wood, ride bike.
 
#41 ·
You can pour it off into a dropper bottle. When I used to use bar oil on my fixed gear, I would pull the chain off and let it soak in a bottle of bar oil, then pull it out and wipe it off.

I know guys that soak a rag in bar oil and just wipe it over their chains to lube, seems really messy but I guess its no worse than a drop on each roller.

Guess the beltdrive bandwagon has broken down? This seems like the perfect thread for someone to jump in and chime on the allweather readiness of a beltdrive setup.
 
#39 ·
I use Pro Gold ProLink Chain Lube.

It keeps dirt out of the drive-chain and helps to keep rust away. It's a lube and cleaner. Waterproof formula and removes all other lubricants; prevents dirt and grit from sticking to the chain, and doesn't wash off in wet conditions. I have found it never freezes and I actually use it to cleanly chain too.

-Garret
I'm so Fat!
 
#47 ·
If you ride in negative temps and are looking for reliability in all your moving parts, especially your hubs you should be using -
Morning Star Free Hub Soup - FreeHub Soup (Lube) / Morningstar Tools

I personally use this on ALL my moving parts. Headset, BB, hubs, pulleys etc

As for chain, definitely, its like you do it once at the beginning of the year and call it good.. Massage it in and I will guarantee you over a thousand miles. It has worked for us every time crossing AK. Been using it on all my winter bikes for the past 5 years and the one time I didnt treat (Tracey's) hub it froze up at a very bad time...resulted in, well lets just say I boiled the grease and the seals right off the hub and then it worked again.
 
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