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  1. #1
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    Which chain lube for winter riding?

    So I've got my first fatbike and done a couple of snow rides and am starting to wonder what chainlube to run. My Fatback's chain seems to have come very well greased, I'm guessing that it is still the packing lube on the chain but seems to be working fairly well (I've never run an FSA chain before, maybe they just throw a lot more lube on it at the factory). I personally will be riding between 5C (41F) down to -10C (14F) in fairly humid snowy conditions, but I'd also like to hear recommendations for colder, drier conditions too.

    My current lube collection is pretty wide thanks to trips to IB as well as trail finds. Here's a list;
    Boeshield T9 (my fave)
    Prolink Gold (heard good things but haven't used due to issues with plastic bashguards)
    Squirt
    Pedro's Chainj
    Pedro's Icewax
    Finishline Krytech
    Finishline Crosscountry
    White Lightning Epic, and Cleanride.

    I'm going to test out what I've got, but any input/experiences from those of you with a few seasons under their belt would be appreciated!

  2. #2
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    I've had good luck with Rock'n Roll blue, which is a PTFE lube.

  3. #3
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    I use squirt, myself and like it a lot. I normally apply it at the end of my ride (or right after washing the bike) so that it dries before I ride it. You have to keep it indoors or it will freeze.

    I've used Prolink in the past, but didn't like the black gunk that it left on the chain. I also used Icewax many years ago, but found that it wore off quickly, often mid-ride. Squirt is much better IMO.

    I think that I have used Finish Line wet a few times when riding in wet conditions. I don't ride much in the wet as it just tears up the trails here.

  4. #4
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    Also a big fan of Rock'n roll blue all conditions use year round.

  5. #5
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    Fresh baby seal blubber if you can source it.

    If you're not down with the club scene, Rock N Roll works too.
    Professional Amateur. Disagree? Submit your grievances here.

  6. #6
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    I used to use Finish Line Cross Country and loved it until I found Chain L. I wouldn't use it in dry but in wet and snow and cold I haven't found anything better. I only have to lube my chain once or twice during the winter and it simply does not wash off when riding in snow like all other lubes (including cross country) I've tried

  7. #7
    Chad
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    2nd Chain-L

  8. #8
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    Big fan of DuMonde Tech (the dark green one)

  9. #9
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by mavicrider View Post
    Big fan of DuMonde Tech (the dark green one)
    Hot DOG we have a weiner!

    Me too, love the stuff.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  10. #10
    DIY all the way
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    Bar oil.

    Cheap as chips, very high performance, inhibits rust, and does fine till minus 25C.


    Magura

  11. #11
    addicted to chunk
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    Bar oil.

    Cheap as chips, very high performance, inhibits rust, and does fine till minus 25C.


    Magura
    I use this mixed with about 1/4 motor oil to thin it out a bit. Works fantastic & I get to make fun of the guys with squeaky chains after 20 miles when I haven't lubed in a month.
    Riding.....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRALPH View Post
    I've had good luck with Rock'n Roll blue, which is a PTFE lube.
    +1 love this lube for everything.

  13. #13
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    White Lightening Wet Ride has worked for me. I've tried it up to -25C. All good

  14. #14
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    The tears of roadies on indoor trainers.

    Or Gnar Lube Wet.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    Bar oil.

    Cheap as chips, very high performance, inhibits rust, and does fine till minus 25C.


    Magura
    What is "bar oil"...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by patineto View Post
    What is "bar oil"...
    The stuff also called chain saw chain oil.

    It's available at every second street corner, like gas stations, home depot (for the ones on the wrong side of the pond), around here you can even find it in the big supermarkets.

    1 liter of bar oil, is roughly 15-20$, and will last for the next decade of lubricating bikes.
    In fact I think that if I didn't have a chainsaw, it would get too old before I would get rid of the entire bottle

    Magura

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    The stuff also called chain saw chain oil.

    It's available at every second street corner, like gas stations, home depot (for the ones on the wrong side of the pond), around here you can even find it in the big supermarkets.

    1 liter of bar oil, is roughly 15-20$, and will last for the next decade of lubricating bikes.
    In fact I think that if I didn't have a chainsaw, it would get too old before I would get rid of the entire bottle

    Magura
    Great, I have no idea about this oil but it makes perfect sense if it works on chainsaws..

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post
    I've used Prolink in the past, but didn't like the black gunk that it left on the chain..
    The black gunk is the remains of the stock grease coming out. ProLink has a solvent base that eats through previous lube. If you thoroughly clean your chain ahead of time in some mineral spirits, then the ProLink goes on clear and stays that way throughout its use. Only downside of ProLink is that it's thin and doesnt last long, and it eats through rubber and plastic.

  19. #19
    DIY all the way
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    Quote Originally Posted by patineto View Post
    Great, I have no idea about this oil but it makes perfect sense if it works on chainsaws..
    As posted above, it works very well for bikes. Better than any of "bike oils", especially in harsh conditions.

    That it's an industrial product just means you'll have to find a fancy bottle yourself, and write "bike oil" on the bottle


    Magura

  20. #20
    conjoinicorned
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Magura View Post
    As posted above, it works very well for bikes. Better than any of "bike oils", especially in harsh conditions.

    That it's an industrial product just means you'll have to find a fancy bottle yourself, and write "bike oil" on the bottle


    Magura
    you can buy bio-degradable chainsaw bar oil as well, which is a big plus. i've switched to bar oil diluted with either motor oil or ATF (slight amounts) and experimenting with vegetable oils for diluting, and as you said, $10 will last longer than the bike.
    what would rainbow unicorn do?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ferday View Post
    you can buy bio-degradable chainsaw bar oil as well, which is a big plus. i've switched to bar oil diluted with either motor oil or ATF (slight amounts) and experimenting with vegetable oils for diluting, and as you said, $10 will last longer than the bike.
    LOL!

    Around here you can only buy bio-degradable bar oil, and it's been like that for quite some time.

    I have never found a reason to dilute it though, why are you doing that?


    Magura

  22. #22
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    Amsoil Semi-Synthetic Bar and Chain Oil. Should work good in the cold plus the price is right a less than $6 per quart.

  23. #23
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    There are summer and winter grade bar oils. I would guess people are diluting the summer grade oil which gets thick and stringy when its cold. Winter grade should work without diluting. The other great thing about the bio-degradable bar oil (other than it is slightly more environmentally friendly) is that it works well both in winter and summer.

    Phil Wood Tenacious Oil is basically summer grade bar oil.

    I prefer Tri-flow most of the time since I like to clean the salt off of my chain a lot in the winter. If I think its going to be wet or a long ride I might use Pedro's Syn Lube. These lubes can easily be applied when the bike is outdoors, wet and cold. I think most fancy bike lube apply best indoors when its warm and with a little more care.... with that said, I bet T-9 would be great for winter, I miss that stuff.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by FishMan473 View Post
    There are summer and winter grade bar oils. I would guess people are diluting the summer grade oil which gets thick and stringy when its cold. Winter grade should work without diluting. The other great thing about the bio-degradable bar oil (other than it is slightly more environmentally friendly) is that it works well both in winter and summer.
    Ahh, that would be the reason I have never understood the point in diluting bar oil. I have simply never had anything but the bio version.

    Thanks


    Magura

  25. #25
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    The black gunk is the remains of the stock grease coming out. ProLink has a solvent base that eats through previous lube. If you thoroughly clean your chain ahead of time in some mineral spirits, then the ProLink goes on clear and stays that way throughout its use.
    Not in my experience. The chain was degreased with carb or brake cleaner. Black gunk appeared throughout the life of the chain when using ProLink. YMMV.

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