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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeG View Post
    Not in my experience. The chain was degreased with carb or brake cleaner. Black gunk appeared throughout the life of the chain when using ProLink. YMMV.
    Strange, I did a full mineral spirits soak and shake until the chain ran clear then used nothing but ProLink and it dried clear and dry. Worked great but I've moved on from ProLink as it just doesnt last long enough.

  2. #27
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    ProLink for me.

    I found T-9 to work great till it gets cold (15deg or cooler.)

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Hot DOG we have a weiner!

    Me too, love the stuff.
    That stuff looks pretty interesting, very different in it's description - "liquid plastic through polymerization" - unless they mean PTFE. Wonder if there is a Canadian distributor...

  4. #29
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    I like bacon fat. Gives the chain a nice scent and if I get hungry mid-ride, well you know...

    Actually I currently use ProLink. Seems okay. Not sure that I am completely sold on it though. It does seem to require application more often than others I have tried.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by blockphi View Post
    I like bacon fat. Gives the chain a nice scent and if I get hungry mid-ride, well you know...

    Actually I currently use ProLink. Seems okay. Not sure that I am completely sold on it though. It does seem to require application more often than others I have tried.
    Hmmm, main prob with bacon fat around here is the potential for waking sleeping Grizzlies. Although wouldn't be as bad as this past summer when a buddy spilled the oil from a can of sardines on himself on a high alpine bike ride...
    Had to explain to him that it wasn't the wisest food choice.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by blockphi View Post
    I like bacon fat. Gives the chain a nice scent and if I get hungry mid-ride, well you know...

    Actually I currently use ProLink. Seems okay. Not sure that I am completely sold on it though. It does seem to require application more often than others I have tried.
    You must ride a FatBack!

    That must force you to keep the cadence up so you can stay ahead of the circus parade.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Where am I? Again.

  7. #32
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    I've been a fan of Rock and Roll, and it works well at low temps. The problem I've found with wax based lubes is that you can't reapply while the chain or lube is cold. After slushy rides or things like the Arrowhead 135 I've found the chain unhappy and I have to bring the bike (or at least the chain) indoors to warm up before lubing.

    I might test out the AmsOil+thinner of some kind for a lube that could be applied at below zero...
    Slowly slipping to retrogrouchyness

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockyRider View Post
    I used to use Finish Line Cross Country and loved it until I found Chain L. I wouldn't use it in dry but in wet and snow and cold I haven't found anything better. I only have to lube my chain once or twice during the winter and it simply does not wash off when riding in snow like all other lubes (including cross country) I've tried
    +1

    I use it as well, its a bit dirtier but my drivetrain now lasts a whole season ( chain 6 mos.)
    Last edited by dan0; 12-05-2012 at 02:53 PM.

  9. #34
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    [QUOTE=FishMan473;9932112]There are summer and winter grade bar oils. I would guess people are diluting the summer grade oil which gets thick and stringy when its cold.


    actually the stringyness is on purpose, it draws the oil back into the cracks and crevases instead of letting it fling off into the air

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by soupboy View Post
    fresh baby seal blubber if you can source it.

    If you're not down with the club scene, rock n roll works too.
    lmao....
    Last edited by Davesnhere; 12-04-2012 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Smiley malfunction

  11. #36
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    I found myself without a bottle of lube this summer and a bike that had been ridden hard and put away wet, but I did have my chainsaw in the van. I pillaged it for some bar lube, it worked fan-freaking-tastic. I was not aware that it was a common practice. I just bought a heap of rock and roll, but glad to hear that people use bar lube regularly.....good work. Eat food, chop wood, ride bike.

  12. #37
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    Any tips on how you apply bar oil from the quart container without making a huge mess? Thanks.

  13. #38
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    Put some in a smaller bottle?

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinS View Post
    So I've got my first fatbike and done a couple of snow rides and am starting to wonder what chainlube to run. My Fatback's chain seems to have come very well greased, I'm guessing that it is still the packing lube on the chain but seems to be working fairly well (I've never run an FSA chain before, maybe they just throw a lot more lube on it at the factory). I personally will be riding between 5C (41F) down to -10C (14F) in fairly humid snowy conditions, but I'd also like to hear recommendations for colder, drier conditions too.

    My current lube collection is pretty wide thanks to trips to IB as well as trail finds. Here's a list;
    Boeshield T9 (my fave)
    Prolink Gold (heard good things but haven't used due to issues with plastic bashguards)
    Squirt
    Pedro's Chainj
    Pedro's Icewax
    Finishline Krytech
    Finishline Crosscountry
    White Lightning Epic, and Cleanride.

    I'm going to test out what I've got, but any input/experiences from those of you with a few seasons under their belt would be appreciated!
    I use Pro Gold ProLink Chain Lube.

    It keeps dirt out of the drive-chain and helps to keep rust away. It's a lube and cleaner. Waterproof formula and removes all other lubricants; prevents dirt and grit from sticking to the chain, and doesn't wash off in wet conditions. I have found it never freezes and I actually use it to cleanly chain too.

    -Garret
    I'm so Fat!

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastorgarret View Post
    I use Pro Gold ProLink Chain Lube.

    I have found it never freezes.

    -Garret
    I'm so Fat!
    Not at all true. I left my bottle outside the other day. It was 25F and the bottle was frozen solid. No dice.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeek29er View Post
    Any tips on how you apply bar oil from the quart container without making a huge mess? Thanks.
    You can pour it off into a dropper bottle. When I used to use bar oil on my fixed gear, I would pull the chain off and let it soak in a bottle of bar oil, then pull it out and wipe it off.

    I know guys that soak a rag in bar oil and just wipe it over their chains to lube, seems really messy but I guess its no worse than a drop on each roller.

    Guess the beltdrive bandwagon has broken down? This seems like the perfect thread for someone to jump in and chime on the allweather readiness of a beltdrive setup.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastorgarret View Post
    I use Pro Gold ProLink Chain Lube.

    It keeps dirt out of the drive-chain and helps to keep rust away. It's a lube and cleaner. Waterproof formula and removes all other lubricants; prevents dirt and grit from sticking to the chain, and doesn't wash off in wet conditions. I have found it never freezes and I actually use it to cleanly chain too.

    -Garret
    I'm so Fat!
    sounds like an impossibility, if it removes other lubricants and is waterproof it must be solvent based and as such it would also clean itself off , so while it may leave a small amount behind as it evaporates it would be a very small amount. Wd40 does the same thing, but is too thin to be of much value.
    there is a study done by one of the universities that tested all chain lubes ( in a lab) and they found that none of them did any better friction wise than no lube at all. they deducted that chain lubes value was in filling in the hollows and voids in chains so that dirt and water wouldnt get in and acumulate, also an oil based lube will also offer some rust protection

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by EPcycles View Post
    Not at all true. I left my bottle outside the other day. It was 25F and the bottle was frozen solid. No dice.
    I meant on my chain. Not in the bottle. There is less on your chain and maybe if the chain is moving there is enough fiction to keep it from freezing. Most of the other oils I have used froze at low temperatures. Just my experience.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by blockphi View Post
    I like bacon fat. Gives the chain a nice scent and if I get hungry mid-ride, well you know...

    Actually I currently use ProLink. Seems okay. Not sure that I am completely sold on it though. It does seem to require application more often than others I have tried.
    lmao!!!

    OK I am going to try this. Best advice I have ever heard. ;-)

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastorgarret View Post
    I meant on my chain. Not in the bottle. There is less on your chain and maybe if the chain is moving there is enough fiction to keep it from freezing. Most of the other oils I have used froze at low temperatures. Just my experience.
    no real friction going on with a bike chain, especially not enough to melt water
    any solvent based oil will not freeze in temps. that most people ride in. they will get thicker but you have to get well below zero to freeze

  21. #46
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    I'm fan of wax, now using squirt, but i also liked other brands!

  22. #47
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    If you ride in negative temps and are looking for reliability in all your moving parts, especially your hubs you should be using -
    Morning Star Free Hub Soup - FreeHub Soup (Lube) / Morningstar Tools

    I personally use this on ALL my moving parts. Headset, BB, hubs, pulleys etc

    As for chain, definitely, its like you do it once at the beginning of the year and call it good.. Massage it in and I will guarantee you over a thousand miles. It has worked for us every time crossing AK. Been using it on all my winter bikes for the past 5 years and the one time I didnt treat (Tracey's) hub it froze up at a very bad time...resulted in, well lets just say I boiled the grease and the seals right off the hub and then it worked again.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nothing's impossible View Post
    I'm fan of wax, now using squirt, but i also liked other brands!
    Freezes really easy.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR2ebike View Post
    Freezes really easy.
    Once the water is evaporated it works really well and doesn't freeze anymore then other stuff.

    But if you have no chance of letting the squirt dry, or if you applicate it in low temperatures, you better look for something with a solvent that evaporates quicker or at low temperatures!

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