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Thread: Canyon Dude

  1. #1
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    Canyon Dude

    Are there any reasons not to buy the Canyon Dude CF 8.0. This seems like a reasonably good deal. Any other suggestions as well?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Might be info in this thread: The Canyon Dude Wait Club

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    For $300 more I'd get the 9.0, which includes a Bluto and better components.

    As an alternative, I'd look at the Wozo, better adjustability on drop outs.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    For $300 more I'd get the 9.0, which includes a Bluto and better components.

    As an alternative, I'd look at the Wozo, better adjustability on drop outs.
    I think you may have been looking at the versions available in overseas. It looks like both USA versions have the carbon fork.

    I'll look at the Wozo, thanks.

    I have a set of 29plus wheels looking for a bike. Prefer going the fat bike route so I can have one bike for all seasons.

  5. #5
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    I was looking at that bike (online) over the weekend. If it ever becomes a reality and available, it's a smoking deal and they'll sell the shit out of.

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    Just imagine if they built a full suspension fatbike!

    Quote Originally Posted by litespeedaddict View Post
    I was looking at that bike (online) over the weekend. If it ever becomes a reality and available, it's a smoking deal and they'll sell the shit out of.

  7. #7
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    I own a Dude 9.0 unlimited, which I use for winter riding. For the money it's pretty unbeatable imho, but there are a few minor niggles:

    - The fork can't fit a brake rotor smaller than 180mm.
    - The rear can only fit a 160mm rotor.
    - The adjustable dropout at the rear only give two positions, and is much too finicky to use trailside.
    - The forward dropout position won't fit a true 4.8" tire on hundos.
    - Only one bottle cage mount.
    - The e*13 cranks are less-than-ideal for a bunch of reasons (although it looks like the 8.0 comes with Race Face cranks anyway...)

    A lot of these things are subjective, so ymmv. Otherwise there's a lot to like about the bike.

  8. #8
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    I literally just received my Canyon Dude cf 8.0 this week, and I highly (HIGHLY) recommend it. I was tempted because Canyon had a sale which meant I got mine for AUS$2500, and took a bit of a risk as I'd not seen one in the flesh.
    Well I'm mightily impressed. The bike is pretty light (a little over 12kg), but it really climbs well. My other bike is a Santa Cruz trc and it out climbs that easily, despite being 1.5kg heavier. Mine is fully rigid but it doesn't feel harsh like a regular rigid bike would as the front tyre's so huge and squashy. I'm not seeing any real need to put the Bluto on the front at the moment.
    That said I've changed the grips on mine, as the stock ones are thin and super hard. Down the line I'd be tempted to swap the aluminium bar out for a carbon one too as that'll also provide a little more comfort.
    But these are the details, the important bits are the frame, wheels and drivetrain, all of which are excellent. I hadn't used the SRAM NX gears before but they seem just fine.
    Value for money wise I think it's an awesome deal. Rides great out of the box, and has potential for a few choice upgrades down the line. For me adding a dropper post and going tubeless are on the cards, and I can see me riding this more often than the Santa Cruz.

  9. #9
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    Only a 160mm rotor out back? That's a bummer.

    I can't imagine changing drop out positions on the trail, that's a garage or camping change when swapping wheels.

    Forward position not fitting a 4.8 is not a suprise, the forward position is short and a 4.8 is tall.

    [QUOTE=JoCo;13324937]I own a Dude 9.0 unlimited, which I use for winter riding. For the money it's pretty unbeatable imho, but there are a few minor niggles:

  10. #10
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    180 mm rotor back no problem (its a bit overkill but the 200 mm rotor with Shimano Zee at the Bluto is great).

    Front drop out position = 160 mm rotor
    Rear drop out position = 180 mm rotor

    Think the adjustable dropout is not designed to do the change at trailside because you have to change the disc rotor too.




  11. #11
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    If the 12kg weight is accurate before going tubeless, that 8.0 is a steal at that price IMHO

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    Pretty sure the weight is accurate. Mine feels that light. And like you said, make it tubeless and you're around 11.5kg, which is impressive for the price.

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    Definitely on my long-term upgrade list. If only I could get one out in Africa. Reckon they would sell the crap out of all their bikes if they sorted distribution.
    Unless I'm missing something, most fatties at this price are the best part of 30lbs

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I can't imagine changing drop out positions on the trail, that's a garage or camping change when swapping wheels.
    Or for changing your front/rear weight bias when riding in different types of snow.

    If it took 20secs to change then it's definitely something I would use regularly, at least at the start of each ride, depending on the conditions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoCo View Post
    Or for changing your front/rear weight bias when riding in different types of snow.

    If it took 20secs to change then it's definitely something I would use regularly, at least at the start of each ride, depending on the conditions.
    The reason for the changeability is to give you a shorter wheelbase with smaller wheels for better control (or rearwheel less far out from your body). the idea the closer the rear wheel is to you the better riding control. So you only would change it when you change wheel sizes. You also would have to adjust chain length.

    As for the bike, I had seriously considered buying it since it has a very good $/value ratio. Also the very high quality components (DT Swiss hubs etc.) show they didn't cut corners. This bike should be better quality than most LBS brands since they don't tell you anything about the hubs (or have their own name brand).
    I called them about availability of the 8.0 and they said end of October. I ultimately bought a Sturgis NX from BikesDirect for $1,100 since I felt as a beginner this is too good for me. But still think it is a great value.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    The reason for the changeability is to give you a shorter wheelbase with smaller wheels for better control (or rearwheel less far out from your body). the idea the closer the rear wheel is to you the better riding control. So you only would change it when you change wheel sizes. You also would have to adjust chain length.
    Riding in snow is a very different set of rules when it comes to things like the effects of chainstay length.

    Also, a 16mm difference in length is well within the capacity of most rear derailleurs.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue66 View Post
    180 mm rotor back no problem (its a bit overkill but the 200 mm rotor with Shimano Zee at the Bluto is great).

    Front drop out position = 160 mm rotor
    Rear drop out position = 180 mm rotor

    Think the adjustable dropout is not designed to do the change at trailside because you have to change the disc rotor too.



    You gotta change the caliper position when change the dropout position?

    Okay, now that's crappy design!

    Wozo.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    You gotta change the caliper position when change the dropout position?

    Okay, now that's crappy design!

    Wozo.
    Yes, youre right, you have to change the position of the caliper too.
    As I said before I dont think its designed to do the change at trailside. For example at my DH-Bike (alu frame) its possible to change the drop out position at trailside including the position of the caliper too (see pic below). But I dont know if a similar design is possible at a carbon frame and the system at my DH-Bike is definitely heavier. And to be honest Ive done this only once at both bikes after Ive found my preferred position.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue66 View Post
    Yes, youre right, you have to change the position of the caliper too.
    As I said before I dont think its designed to do the change at trailside. For example at my DH-Bike (alu frame) its possible to change the drop out position at trailside including the position of the caliper too (see pic below). But I dont know if a similar design is possible at a carbon frame and the system at my DH-Bike is definitely heavier. And to be honest Ive done this only once at both bikes after Ive found my preferred position.
    The carbon Farleys use a similar system. You're right though, it's heavier (and crucially: more expensive).

    I can only speak for myself, but, I think a sliding design is preferable on a snow bike, both for squeezing in different tires and adapting to different types of terrain.

  20. #20
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    I use the rear drop out position for summer (4.0) and winter tires (4.8) even in the rear position the Dude is extremely manoeuvrable (compared with my DH-Bike).
    I have to admit that Im too lazy to change the setup contstantly - prefer more riding the bike.

  21. #21
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    There is nothing wrong with the design. It wasn't meant to be adjusted on the trail. Find a setting you like, that fits the tire you like and leave it at that
    Last edited by Bacon Fat; 01-12-2018 at 07:51 PM.

  22. #22
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    I don't see the issue with the design, you might swap it 2 times a year when you go between 4.8s and 4.0 tires. I just left mine in the longest setting and use B&L all the time.

    There's a guy in the Facebook group who managed to fit 2XLs, but on 65mm rims.

  23. #23
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    same idea as the Farley (as mentioned above) and i change my Farley twice a year.

    Farley needs a 20 mm socket and ratchet, so that's not a trail side repair either.
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  24. #24
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    Does anyone know what the rear spacing is on the Dude? Cant seem to find it on their site. What about the B.B. shell?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2:01 View Post
    Does anyone know what the rear spacing is on the Dude? Cant seem to find it on their site. What about the B.B. shell?
    It has a 197mm rear thru axle. The BB shell is 41mm x 121 press fit. I've had my Dude 8.0 for a month now and am thouroghly pleased.

    More info on another thread in the Canyon Forum.

    Caynyon Dude Fatbike - 2018 Model Comming Soon to the USA?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff_L View Post
    It has a 197mm rear thru axle. The BB shell is 41mm x 121 press fit. I've had my Dude 8.0 for a month now and am thouroghly pleased.

    More info on another thread in the Canyon Forum.

    Caynyon Dude Fatbike - 2018 Model Comming Soon to the USA?
    Thank you! Really wish I could buy this bike, but the wide q factor kills it for me (although it's not bad for a bike able to fit 4.8" tires). I'll probably be looking at the RM Suzi Q or Otso.

  27. #27
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    Canyon Dude being pushed to the limits by the GMBN team

    https://youtu.be/wjy9Jgnjv6U

  28. #28
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    The Canyon cyberweek sale price was too good to pass up, so my med. Dude 8.0 arrived yesterday, 6 days from order to Minn. Sturdy box and well packed, gorgeous bike ! Easy assembly and brief test ride before dark went well. Wt. is 7-8# less than my Scott big Jon which will go up for sale or to a nephew or serve as guest bike. Med fits fine @ 510, 29 seat height with 1 of seatpost left. Also got a spare derailleur hanger while I was at it. Longer ride planned for tomorrow as temps climb out of the teens, only 2 snow so for so no test there. Came with 15psi FR, dropped to 8-10 and that felt good on streets. A lot of bike for the money- now gotta get my motor worthy of it.

  29. #29
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    Dude pic showing the lines of the CF, also since Im new here, its a chance to check out posting pics. Really like the gloss/flat contrast and no flashy logos.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Canyon Dude-d6ecc161-15a7-410c-ace8-9b7588bb4805.jpg  


  30. #30
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    I just wish this had been my first fatty.

  31. #31
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    I'm bummed I missed their 10% off sale. I would have pulled the trigger. I'm torn between the Dude 8.0 and building a cs-197 frame.

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    I missed it too!

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    So close to buying, but not coming with a wider tire is holding me back. If only they would run/honor their earlier sale price of 10% off.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by hwcn View Post
    So close to buying, but not coming with a wider tire is holding me back. If only they would run/honor their earlier sale price of 10% off.
    I wouldn't let that hold me back. The Jumbo Jim 4.0s are great for dirt and groomed trails. I bought some Snowshoe XLs w studs. They are better in deep snow and ice but add a full 3 lb of weight. If you don't think you will ever use the 4.0 JJ just sell them as new on eBay. Probably get $150 for the set.

  35. #35
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    Just weighed my Dude F wheel complete with 4 JJ = 6# 3oz, vs the F off my Scott big Jon with 4.7 JJ = 7# 3oz . DT rim might be a bit lighter, but mostly just more rubber. Rolling resistance site rates JJ well as fast tire. Still loving my Dude, just got 4 snow so need to get riding. (edit, just checked tire specs online and delta for tire, light skin, is only 200 g. so Canyon DT wheels/tubes/rim strips combo must be another couple hundred gm. lighter, it continues to impress )

  36. #36
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    Inquiring on the Canyon Dude sporting a Mastodon - anyone paired these two up and if so, what are the results?

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    Quote Originally Posted by calzonical View Post
    Inquiring on the Canyon Dude sporting a Mastodon - anyone paired these two up and if so, what are the results?
    Looking at possibly doing the same

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  38. #38
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    Below is the email response from Canyon Bicycle USA with regards to inquiring if a Manitou Mastodon will fit a Canyon Dude without hitting the downtube.

    <<We have not tried this fork (Manitou Mastodon) with the Dude so we cannot say for sure.

    Unfortunately, changing the fork would void the warranty. Our bike is designed for the specific fork that comes on the bike with that specific height and angles. Any variation from what was intended for the bike could cause safety concerns. >>

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by calzonical View Post
    Below is the email response from Canyon Bicycle USA with regards to inquiring if a Manitou Mastodon will fit a Canyon Dude without hitting the downtube.

    <<We have not tried this fork (Manitou Mastodon) with the Dude so we cannot say for sure.

    Unfortunately, changing the fork would void the warranty. Our bike is designed for the specific fork that comes on the bike with that specific height and angles. Any variation from what was intended for the bike could cause safety concerns. >>
    Dude with Mastodon should work see links below (German Fat Bike Forum).
    As far as I remebmer a few German Dude owners have already installed a Mastodon in their Dude

    Dude with Mastodon: Post #20
    https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/mani...stodon.847849/

    Dude with Mastodon: Post #3685
    https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/der-...#post-14734287

    Dude with Mastodon: Post #4295
    https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/der-...#post-14642585

    If you have questions about the Dude (& Mastodon) do not hesitate to ask there is a special thread about the Canyon Dude (English should be not a problem):

    https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/der-...22544/page-182
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    Considering a Dude 9 up from a Farley 7 alloy that is a tad too small. Geo numbers on Dude are great. Questions:
    - crank width: Will a 170mm crank fit? What comes stock?
    - internal dropper routing : Is there an access port at bottom of frame , or does one need to finagle something?
    - contact points : How is the quality of post, stem, and bar?

    thanks!
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  41. #41
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    Canyon Dude

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    Quote Originally Posted by adinpapa View Post
    Considering a Dude 9 up from a Farley 7 alloy that is a tad too small. Geo numbers on Dude are great. Questions:
    - crank width: Will a 170mm crank fit? What comes stock?
    - internal dropper routing : Is there an access port at bottom of frame , or does one need to finagle something?
    - contact points : How is the quality of post, stem, and bar?

    thanks!
    I've installed my dropper post through the right headtube port, through the downtube. The BB is not in the way. Only concern was a sharp edge inside the frame, where the top tube meets the downtube. A piece of closed cell foam took care of that.

    A less fiddly, and less neat solution would be to run the cable outside from the remote, down the outside of the downtube, and up the outside of the seat tube, with insertion into the seat tube through the port on the left side of the seattube, on third of the way up.

    Also, I couldn't get the tension right on a Crankbrothers Highline. I've replaced it with an E*Thirteen. Alas, the Highline might be faulty. It's in for repairs now, I'm awaiting the verdict.

    The standard Canyon branded post, stem and bar are fine. I usually upgrade those parts to Thomson or similar, but not on the Dude. And I can't go any shorter on the stem anyway, due to my gorilla build - 6'2" tall with a 6'5" wingspan. The grips had to go though - too thin.

    If I'm reading the specs right, the spindle length is 155 mm, the BB shell width is 132 mm and the crank arms are 175 mm. (from the E*Thirteen BB92 TRS Fatbike 78 mm offset installation manual.)

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff_L View Post
    I wouldn't let that hold me back. The Jumbo Jim 4.0s are great for dirt and groomed trails. I bought some Snowshoe XLs w studs. They are better in deep snow and ice but add a full 3 lb of weight. If you don't think you will ever use the 4.0 JJ just sell them as new on eBay. Probably get $150 for the set.
    I can second what Geoff is saying here. The JJs are amazing on dry trails. I sold mine, and went with 4.8" Minions. But the Minions are overkill in the summer, so I'm going back to JJs for the dry season, and will use the Minions for winter riding.

  44. #44
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    Thanks for the replies . Gona order me one soon.


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    I ran my dropper cable along the rear brake line (which is external) and then into the seat tube port. It is zip tied to the brake line. It was an easier install, but I also preferred the lower turn routing better (the lowest "U" as it turns back up and into the seat tube). With the stock routing, it looked like it would loop and wrap down and around below the down tube. Functional, but kind of circuitous.

    I've really enjoyed my Dude. The handling is spot on and I love the groupset (Eagle GX1). I'm 5' 11" and got a medium and one could argue that the reach is short, but to be honest, with the way a fat bike is ridden and the conditions it is ridden in (I only use mine for snow), it has worked well. I'm not doing anything too steep up or down and most of the riding is relatively slow and often requires a lot of maneuvering. It feels fine.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by adinpapa View Post
    Thanks for the replies . Gona order me one soon.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    My delivery date was moved from Monday, up to today, though it is snowing and 1' expected. I'm keeping fingers crossed it comes today while I'm actually home to sign for it. Going for a neighborhood ride in fresh snow would be great too.
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    I am 6'0" with 33" inseam and followed the Canyon recommendations to get a medium. It just arrived and, due to the rain we are getting in CT today, I haven't yet gotten in a good shakedown ride. Just tooling around the garage and driveway, though, the fit feels about right and reach can be pretty easily cured with a slightly longer stem. Canyon didn't have any large in stock but, given that the geometry of the large size is almost literally off the chart (Fat Bike Stack and Reach — RIDEFATBIKES.CA), I think a medium was the right choice. Can't wait for trails to freeze solid tomorrow! Mastodon arrives Wednesday...

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