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  1. #1
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    Build your dream chinese carbon fatty!

    RED means I had that in there originally but since removed it from the build

    Hi guys, I tried posting this in the chinese carbon fatty thread but I got almost no replies since the post quickly disappeared among other posts.

    I am a total bike noob but I am really fired up to get myself a carbon fatty.

    I used to love my small bike with fat tires as a kid and have always wondered why noone makes them. Until now!

    I've read pretty much read the whole chinese carbon fatty thread and
    set myself on the FM190 frame - scratch that its now SN01 from ICAN! Reasons: rear rack mount, still fits 4.8 tires but only just, comes with 150mm fork and fits a bluto suspension fork in 16 & 18" sizes! (From some extra info on the forum apparently the 16" size needs an extra wide crown race (3mm extraor so. One guy uses salsa Cane Creek +3 40mm Crown Race), to fit the bluto I am not a racer so I don't need the single track geometry, although that would be nice but i love exploring and going through mud/etc.

    I am planning to document my build process on here and review the final product, hopefully getting others who are new to Fat bikes to do the same.

    I've got a 4wd and love adventuring, I can also work on my car myself so I dont see why I cant build a bike - with your help of course! But first - to select the right parts. I want to get it right the first time. I am in Australia - so lots of sand and dirt along with some mud, no snow.

    So my intentions are:
    * Build the lightest possible bike without compromising the reliability too much
    * Budget - $3000-4000 or so. What a sham that was: so far paid $5500 in total (thats including all the tools, greases, tubeless setup parts, etc)
    * Fattest lightest tires (lightest out of the fat ones)

    Please let me know whats wrong/how you would improve the parts I selected:
    1) Frame - ICAN SN01 16" - 197x12mm thru axle
    2) Fork - ICAN 150mm fork with thru axles
    3) Handlebars HB001 FULL CARBON MTB HANDLEBAR 700mm
    with ESI Fit XC grips
    Syntace Megaforce 2 stem 30mm 107g
    ENVE Mountain Stem 40mm 85g (Ordered a Truvativ Hussefelt Stem 45mm to try it out, will buy a proper stem when I find what length stem fits me best)
    4) Headset Cane Creek TAPERED IS41|IS52/40 TALL TOP COVER (BAA0785K) 92g - WILL THIS FIT GUYS? -Apparently it will (tested and confirmed by Duggus (thanks mate))
    Tech description on cane creek website: IS41/28.6/H15/K|IS52/40/H1

    5) Seat - swapped to WTB Pure V Pro
    Ordered a Charge Spoon Saddle with Cromo Rails - just as an interim solution. From advice I was given I'm gonna have to trial a bunch of them until I like the one that fits.
    Or Fizik Aliante Gamma XM
    Or Selle San Marco Aspide Carbon FX GF New York Saddle 121g
    6) Will go with ICAN supplied for now- will figure out which dropper post later.
    Gravity Dropper Turbo LP or
    Thompson Covert Dropper Post 31.6mm - ordered!
    7) Crank - Raceface Next SL 170mm direct mount 30t
    BB - Race Face BSA 30mm Bottom Bracket 100mm
    Chainring - 30T cog

    Chainring
    - SRAM XX1 Chainring32T - will this fit onto the Crank above? (more or less cogs?

    Part numbers to fit 120mm BB of SN01 (email from Raceface):
    CK14NXSL190A175BLK- CINCH NEXT SL 175MM ARMS FOR 190 REAR END
    BBBSA10030B6- CINCH FOR 100MM/120MM
    D30146- BSA30 BB TOOL (ALSO MADE BY ROTOR, ZIPP, ENDURO)
    D30251 X4 – 2.5MM SPINDLE SPACER


    8) Rear Derailleur - SRAM XX1 Type 2 11 Speed Rear Mech 2014
    9) Shifter - SRAM XX1 11sp Trigger Shifter
    10) Rear cassette - SRAM XX1 XG1199 11 Speed MTB Cassette
    09C1 SHIMANO CS FREEWHEEL TOOL - for XX1 install/removal
    11) Chain - Kmc X11SL DLC
    SRAM XX1 HollowPin 11 Speed Chain -no longer going with it
    12) Front Brake Magura MT8 with Storm SL rotor
    13) Rear Brake Magura MT8 with Storm SL rotor
    14) Looks like XX1 can be mixed with other non-SRAM XX1 components. Sweet.
    15) Shift & Break cables: AICAN Bungarus Shift Housing / Cable Kit 83.1g $80 - nah, read too many bad reviews on them - will use XX1 standard ones.
    16) Tires - Shwalbe Jumbo Jims (26 x 4.80)
    17) ICAN 90mm F-W90 CARBON FAT BIKE WHEELS
    Husker Du on 90mm Wild Dragon Nextie Rims
    Spokes- DT Swiss Competition DB Black Spokes - 2x18 Pack
    Valve extender - speed evolution 7.9g
    Hubs - ??
    Stans Tubeless Valves
    Stans sealant
    Gorilla tape
    Valve core remover tool
    The nexties are getting expensive fast - maybe Ill go for the ICAN complete wheelset.
    Do you guys think its worth it buying Nexties and paying a shop to build them from scratch - considering I am very under-qualified?

    18) Special tools for putting it all together?
    19) ​Finish Line Cross Country Wet Lube - 120ml - for chain
    20) PFinish Line Teflon Grease 100g - for general stuff
    21) Magura service kit - brakes bleed
    22) ICAN Bottle cage Model MBC009 23g x 2
    23) Carbon paste - Finish Line Fiber Grip 50g

    Feel free to suggest any part that you think is better! This is very much a "noob" list so I assume you guys will slam my poor choices quicksmart!
    Last edited by bombermate; 05-06-2015 at 01:40 AM. Reason: Edited parts

  2. #2
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    Build your dream chinese carbon fatty!

    Guys, I've been looking for the best, lightest, and most aerodynamic toilet paper out there.

    What do you guys have to say about the following types?

    1.) Charmin
    2.) Bdaltkaleet
    3.) Bdeeklaveld
    4.) ??


    Let me know if there is anything wrong with that setup.

  3. #3
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    As i told you in the other tread about the seat.speedneedle doesent fit either,i have tried both in the kronolog.the xx1 ring will not fit the next crank,just use the ring that come with the crank.

  4. #4
    turtles make me hot
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    Don't use a HuskerDu on a 90mm carbon rim. Not enough volume to protect the rim from strikes. Seen it more than once.
    I like turtles

  5. #5
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    Drop the dropper post and go with 65mm rims. Look at the Jumbo Jims tires.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  6. #6
    Rocking on a Rocky
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraspontane View Post
    Guys, I've been looking for the best, lightest, and most aerodynamic toilet paper out there.

    What do you guys have to say about the following types?

    1.) Charmin
    2.) Bdaltkaleet
    3.) Bdeeklaveld
    4.) ??


    Let me know if there is anything wrong with that setup.
    You must use a lot of toilet paper cuz you seem like a giant A hole.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  7. #7
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    I'm new to fatbikes but the XX1 components are for racing aren't they.You would probably be best served by a lower group-set for durability.The rear hub of 190/197 is not fully represented at this time by some of the industry leaders.I'm looking for CK to introduce something in the next year or two.It depends on your philosophy on these but I expect it to bring me home and be dammed if its light weight.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortenste View Post
    As i told you in the other tread about the seat.speedneedle doesent fit either,i have tried both in the kronolog.the xx1 ring will not fit the next crank,just use the ring that come with the crank.
    Oh bugger any ideas which dropper post to go for thats light and fits mainstream type saddles?

    Edited main post to reflect your comments.

    With regards to the NexSL crank - I thought you tried to fit the XX1 ring onto the NextSL crank. Did that not work out?
    The reason I was going for all XX1 drivetrain was because of the special teeth that they claim will guide the chain more reliably.

    Also, I was set on going 1x11 but looking at the prices - the RaceFace cranks with two chainrings are only $100 extra - can the smaller chainring (24T) be removed leaving only 1 if I figure out that one ring up front is fine? Is this not advisable? Whats the benefit of a spiderless 34T crank? Is it just weight?

    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Don't use a HuskerDu on a 90mm carbon rim. Not enough volume to protect the rim from strikes. Seen it more than once.
    I was looking to fit the fattest possible tires tubeless - while being able to run the lowest pressures. From what I've read through the main carbon fatty thread - the wider the rims - the lower you can run tubeless pressures.

    Would a solution to this be to get even fatter tires? lol
    I got to calculate whats lighter - thinner rims with bigger rubber or vice versa - for the same area of contact with the ground.

    Quote Originally Posted by RockyJo1 View Post
    Drop the dropper post and go with 65mm rims. Look at the Jumbo Jims tires.
    Dropped the dropper *pun intended* lol. Ill investigate the jumbo jims. Do you still reccommend Nextie vs Chinese Dengfu?

  9. #9
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    Your going for a uber expensive fast wearing drive system on a sales pitch.Racers replace these components for every race.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captlink View Post
    Your going for a uber expensive fast wearing drive system on a sales pitch.Racers replace these components for every race.
    I see. I've seen a few guys in the main thread spec their fatties with XX1 parts - and see them on rigs such as Borealis, Lamere, Salsa... - are they all "wrong" or just loaded with cash and keep putting in new XX1 parts every second week?

    If any of you guys run XX1 parts - can you give us any feedback please?

  11. #11
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    Well, these days a lot of components will mix and match. I am running an SLX triple crankset ($100.00 two years ago) and a Race Face NW ($35?) and ten cogs in the back. I believe that if I wanted to go 1x11 (which I don't have the money for) It'd be a matter of swapping the freehub body for an XD driver (considering that's possible in your wheelset's rear hub), trowing in a XX1 or X1 cassette and an 11 speed chain, the narrow wide would still work with this chain. Obviously you need the derailleur and shifter too. I don't know, but I am sure that a lot of the people I've seen with an 11 speed drivetrain, are not using either the XX1 chainring or crankset, whether the chainring is compatible with another crankset, that I am not 100% but I am biased to think that it is not possible.

    People here don't like XX1 for a heavy duty drive train because that is not what it is, it is a racing drivetrain that wears out faster than the competition, say, an XT cassette.

    Anyways, it is a great adventure to build a bike!

  12. #12
    turtles make me hot
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    [QUOTE=bombermate




    I was looking to fit the fattest possible tires tubeless - while being able to run the lowest pressures. From what I've read through the main carbon fatty thread - the wider the rims - the lower you can run tubeless pressures.

    Would a solution to this be to get even fatter tires? lol
    I got to calculate whats lighter - thinner rims with bigger rubber or vice versa - for the same area of contact with the ground.
    [/QUOTE]

    That's exactly what to do. Check out the Dillinger 5.
    I like turtles

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    That's exactly what to do. Check out the Dillinger 5.
    Upgrading to either a D5 or a Lou. Still undecided.
    I may have to get a second set for sand - low rolling resistance tires for dry weather.
    Like this: Kenda Juggernaut 4.0 – 120 tpi folding – 767g, 771g

  14. #14
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    Build your dream chinese carbon fatty!

    Bomber,
    Thanks for the PM. I will try to answer your questions here. My choice to go with 1x11 xx1 on my fm190 was simple as I already had the parts. I was a Shimano guy in fact I have apology notes to write now that I run SRAM. But in my experience xx1 is plenty durable and is a superior shifting system to Shimano. Rumour has it that serious racer guys have mega miles on the cassette without doom gloom or anything just change your chain like a pro and the average rider should get years out of a cassette.

    I ran a Race Face Turbine crank with the 26 flipped because of the use of a 170 spindle. Chain line and Q factor are good.

    Also on my build U spec a 190 qr. I probably would not bother with this but at the time there were a few Chinese fatbikes with odd 190 thru axles. Went with qr for simplicity in terms of ordering with Wendy at Dengfu.

    Hope this helps. Good luck with the build. Should be nice and light


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #15
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    So you asked. Here's mine:

    Dengue fm190 with their 135mm fork. Thru axles.
    Thompson post and stem.
    Same fizik saddle I have on all of my bikes.
    Enve riser bar (love the width!)
    Trp spyke brakes and levers with ashima 160mm rotors.
    Xtr shadow 10spd rd and lever
    Jag wire pro cables
    Xt 11-36t cassette with wolf tooth 16t and 40t cogs swapped in
    Race face next sl 170 spaced cranks and 100mm bsa bb. I have the rf 30t chainring. Sometimes I wish it a was 26 :-) but most of the time the gearing is fine for me.

    Frame came with the axles, headset, and seat post clamp.

    Nextie wild dragons, hope hubs, dt comp spokes. Love the friggin wheels. I swap between The studded Dilinger 5 or bud and Lou depending on the conditions. Valve extenders are a good idea but my floor pump just manages to lock on with the q-tube ultralight tubes.

    Bike has worked out really well for me so far. Stable but much more maneuverable than the moon lander it replaced. Also at least 10 lbs lighter.

  16. #16
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    Hey guys. A bit of an update: I've been slow with ordering because I was trying to make sure the parts list is good and will work.

    So I just made an order with ICAN for the following:


    SN01 | Carbon fat bike frame
    Fork | Carbon fat bike fork 150mm
    Clamp | Carbon Clamp
    SP006 | Carbon seatpost
    HB011 | Carbon handlebar
    SC001 | Carbon spacer
    F-W90 | "Carbon fat bike wheelset
    | Sram xx1 freehub
    | Black hub,spokes,nipples"
    HQA007 | Quick release for fat bike
    | front 150*15mm axle,
    | rear 197*12mm axle"
    HB001 | Carbon MTB handlebar
    HB011 | Carbon MTB handlebar
    MBC026 | Carbon bottle cages
    Hanger | Hangers
    H373 | Headset:1-1/8'',1-1/2''
    Shipping| Frame in a carton
    | Wheelset in a carton

    TOTAL 1393.50

    If anyone wants individual prices let me know!

    Now to order other parts! Probably from wiggle.com.au

  17. #17
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    Wink

    Hey guys,
    Received my parts this week - didn't have time to upload pics straight away.
    Everything looks pretty good and feels VERY light!
    Excuse the crappy iphone pics:













    And my awesome new $45 delivered bike repair rack!! What a bargain that was!


    Bottom bracket:


    Happy days!! P.S the stuff arrived within about 3-4 days! Good on ya ICAN!








  18. #18
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    Headset construction. I emailed ICAN with these pics and they confirmed that there are no cups to be placed between the bearings and the head tube. Also confirmed by guys in the Chinese carbon fatty thread.



















    So far so good! Now I just have to wait for parts to arrive. The hardest stuff to find was the bloody BB tool from raceface. Cost me 72 delivered for ESI chunky grips + the tool. And the first one I ordered wasn't in stock so I had to cancel the order and place a new one today

    Hint: Bike24.com has the cheapest prices by FAR! Too bad Shwalbe Jumbo Jims are not in stock and I'll have to wait.

  19. #19
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    Yeah isn't their shipping time amazing!

    Just a note - their stock headset isn't terrible but I didn't like the little bit of play. I ordered one of the Cane Creek 40's with the tall cap and the fit was much more secure, and that silver shim piece is integrated on the Cane Creek so less loose parts. Another thing I noticed - I was a little hesitant at first to really tighten the steerer plug down since it's a carbon steerer and all. While trying to preload the headset/stem/top cap I could never fully get a good tighten, but still felt pretty tight. This was because the steer plug was moving a little. I cleaned everything really good with rubbing alcohol and then really tightened the plug down good when installing the new headset. Now all is tight and as it should be. Very happy with my SN01.

    What kind of bike rack do you have? Make sure not to use any rack that clamps to the downtube to hold the bike on.

  20. #20
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    Sweet man, how much does that thing from cane creek weigh? I'm gonna get that ordered quicksmart unless its just too heavy compared to the stock one.

    For the rack I just recently acquired an ISI carrier (the long version). Test fit pics below using a shitty apollo and my gfs road bike:






  21. #21
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    Hey guys,

    ICAN sent wheels out last Friday and I received them on Tuesday. Not bad for a delivery from China.

    Some pics:

    Rear wheel comes XX1-ready. This was optional from ICAN. Ready for the rear cassette.



    Front


    XX1 XD driver body






    Weights.

    Front (1107g):


    Rear (1251):


    Rear skewer:


    Front skewer (112g):



    Starting to look the part haha:


    The skewers are pretty heavy. Might need to do some hunting around to find some lighter ones. Does anyone have any ideas?

  22. #22
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    Are those the ICANs with Powereay hubs? First impressions of their quality?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    Are those the ICANs with Powereay hubs? First impressions of their quality?
    Yep, the wheels are (as per email from Melody from ICAN):

    F-W90,(with Sram xx1 freehub)
    rim weight :678g/pc,front wheelset 979+-20g,rear wheelset 1110+-20g
    Assembled with Powerway M74hub (front 15*135mm axle,rear 12*190/197mm axle)

  24. #24
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    P.S. I am no expert so I should be the last one to be asked this question but everything seems to be spinning pretty smoothly. Clicking sound is not too loud - seems to be less so than the hope hubs others are getting (judging from their youtube videos).

    But, really, its hard to tell when they are not next to each other so take that with a grain of sault.

    The wheels seem pretty well made - perfectly true when you spin them - no wobbles or anything like that, no chips or any imperfections visible in the rims. So I am pretty happy with the final product!

    Waiting for the rest of the parts so I can finally start assembling it alltogether.

  25. #25
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    I've been on mine for a month now and beat the crap out of the wheels. They are strong being I'm 225. Hub has gotten a little louder now with warmer temps but I like that. Sounds like my new version hope but without as many engagement points.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  26. #26
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    ICAN also now has a 29+ with the same hubs at their 90mm carbon hoops...but built up with 50mm rims....calling it a "summer tubeless ready" setup. Keep us posted on the hubs and how they hold up too.

    http://www.amazon.com/ICAN-Clincher-...&keywords=ICAN
    14 GT Zaskar 9r
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  27. #27
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    Nice find.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    ICAN also now has a 29+ with the same hubs at their 90mm carbon hoops...but built up with 50mm rims....calling it a "summer tubeless ready" setup. Keep us posted on the hubs and how they hold up too.

    http://www.amazon.com/ICAN-Clincher-...&keywords=ICAN
    They did offer 50mm rims but it says 29+. Does that mean they will be too lager diameter-wise for their own SN01? I may actually want to go for these and make this Fatty a normal mountain bike whenever I want :O

    I'll just have to shift the cassette accross and buy a new rotor for the rear. Profit!
    But thats probably somewhere down the track.

  29. #29
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    We the people ...

    Parts are starting to trickle in. Got my Magura MT8's and the XX1 Cassette from Bike24 yesterday.

    The two sets are within a few grams of each other.


    Whats in the box.


    Brake and hose set #1


    Brake and hose set #2


    Rotor set #1


    Rotor set #2


    Whole brake kit with fittings set #1


    Whole brake kit with fittings set #2


    Fittings same weight both sets


    XX1 Cassette


    264grams


    Quick trial fit: waiting on cassette tool and grease to be able to install!


    In the meantime I also got some 18650 batteries, headset spacers and 72mm wide gorilla tape (for setting up tubeless):


    These cost me literally $2.50 delivered!





    Some people prefer using square cutouts for the spoke holes. I may try to do the same to save some weight instead of installing a big length of the tape around the whole rim.
    It will all depend on what works I guess!

    Got a kick-ass light in the mail, should be fun riding the fatty in the dark! From one of the reviews on this forum:


    ANDDD the wait continues!!

  30. #30
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    If you mean their orange fat bike they sell, then yes. There's anothere listing on their Amazon page showing the 29+ wheel mounted to the rear of this bike. Go for it!
    14 GT Zaskar 9r
    15 Moto Night Train
    08 BMC Trailfox
    06 Cannondale Rush
    99 GT XCR
    93 Raleigh MT 200

  31. #31
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    Sweet thanks for the heads up mate

  32. #32
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    A whole load of parts came in on Friday!
    I realised that I forgot to order the rear derailleur when I tried to get the order under $1000 AUD to make sure I don't pay any import taxes.
    Had to scramble around to order it today.

    The XX1 trigger shifter came in.

    119g with mount bracket.

    The trigger shifter came without cable housing - not sure if that's the way its supposed to be but I sure as hell didn't expect that! So I ordered a Jagwire Mountain Pro Shift Cable Kit - seems to be highly rated by mountain bikers all-round.

    Other parts:

    Cateye Strada Wireless 37g


    Nukeproof Electron flat pedals


    Tools + Lezyne pump!


    Charge Spoon Saddle - a little on the "heavy" side but comfort matters. I'll look at higher end models later when I'll be able to demo some of the expensive versions from local bike stores.


    Next SL crank with incorrect spindle length

    So I actually managed to get my first and pretty much the most expensive part wrong - the Next SL crank.
    For all you noobies out there please make sure you order the fat bike version for 190-197mm rear. Initially when I looked on sites like Wiggle & Chain reaction - these smaller size ones were the only ones that came up in my search results so I thought that this must be the right crank. This one will be going back to Wiggle asap!

    Then I ordered the correct size from Jenson online today (among the other bits I talked about above), make sure you choose the 190mm spindle version. For 170mm rear it would be the 170mm version (100mm BB AFAIK)
    Race Face Next SL Cinch Fatbike Cranks > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Cranksets | Jenson USA

    Also be careful as that crank does not come with a chainring so you will have to order that one separately. Here is the link:
    Race Face Cinch Narrow Wide Chainring > Components > Drivetrain, Brakes and Pedals > Chainrings | Jenson USA

    So now I will be sending the incorrect crank back to Wiggle and hopefully I get a full refund


    Inserting the "short" crank into the frame


    On the other side


    Fitting BB on


    P.S. Got the mucky nutz fender and appears to be a little short for this frame IMHO!


    SO the lesson is: dont order the wrong parts like I did! I thought I had it covered
    Last edited by bombermate; 04-12-2015 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Grammar!

  33. #33
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    The spindle you are showing in the photo through the frame is incorrect, unless you meant to show that? Did you get the 1.5mm spacers from Raceface? They aren't included for 120mm bottom brackets so you need to request them.
    ...Be careful what you're looking at because it might be looking back...

  34. #34
    DNR
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    You can order the race face cinch spindles separately. Might be cheaper than exchanging.
    RaceFace CINCH Spindle Kit~ 30mm Spindle 170mm | Worldwide Cyclery
    Also, if you're using a single ring in front you may be able to use the 170mm version for better q factor. The Fatboy uses the 170mm version and fits 4.6" (and I think larger) tires.
    I think you'll need spindle spacers too.

  35. #35
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    nice project bombermate, whats the size of the frame?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    The spindle you are showing in the photo through the frame is incorrect, unless you meant to show that? Did you get the 1.5mm spacers from Raceface? They aren't included for 120mm bottom brackets so you need to request them.
    Sorry about that, edited the post for clarity. I meant to show the incorrect fit.
    I am not sure if the spacers are included with the crank from Jenson so I sent them an email. Thanks for the heads up!

    Quote Originally Posted by DNR View Post
    You can order the race face cinch spindles separately. Might be cheaper than exchanging.
    RaceFace CINCH Spindle Kit~ 30mm Spindle 170mm | Worldwide Cyclery
    Also, if you're using a single ring in front you may be able to use the 170mm version for better q factor. The Fatboy uses the 170mm version and fits 4.6" (and I think larger) tires.
    I think you'll need spindle spacers too.
    Yeah I had a look at that option and the postage for the spindles is almost $50 AUD. After a few calcs I opted for the refund and ordering a new one. Still the cheapest option.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wantax View Post
    nice project bombermate, whats the size of the frame?
    SN01 16", cheers!

  37. #37
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    Got some new parts the other day. Almost got them all bar the crank now!
    Ran out of time on the weekend to do any building so only managed to do some prep for going tubeless - taped up spoke holes on one wheel.


    X11SL DLC chain, Raceface BB tool (finally!) and some ESI Fit XC grips.


    Chunky Fit XC's 68g with end caps


    Without caps 63g


    Full length chain 241g


    Truvativ Hussefelt Stem 40mm - 209g. Pretty chunky and sturdy but very heavy. I already got a replacement shorter 30mm stem in the mail after some research:
    Syntace Megaforce 2 Stem Black 107g claimed weight. Thats a nice 100g saving right there and many mountain bikers swear by them.
    Syntace
    For those wanting an even lighter one and have lots of Mulah - try this: Enve Mountain Stem - 85g

    Then did some wheel prep:

    Managed to get the rear rim ready. Still no word on when the Jumbo Jims are in stock


    Here is how much of a weight saving I gained by doing "patches" over spokes instead of going around the whole rim with the tape - a measly 19g. I guess some weight weenies may say thats worth it! 19g less of rotation weight afterall! haha

    Edit: woopsie I just realised that those numbers on weight savings I posted were incorrect. I realised I used up a lot less length of the gorilla tape when cutting out the little "patches" then I would have if I used a complete loop of it around the whole rim of the wheel. So the weight savings would be substantially more.

    I am thinking I would have used at least twice the length of the tape if not three times to do the patches so that becomes 19x2=38 - 59 grams saved per tire. So not so bad afterall!


    Rear wheel all built and ready to go (after patching): 1634grams.

    Last edited by bombermate; 05-03-2015 at 05:10 AM.

  38. #38
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    What tape you use ?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post


    SN01 16", cheers!
    What's your height? Im debating between a 16 and 18. The effective top tube of the 18 is on point but the reach has me scared.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by mortenste View Post
    What tape you use ?
    Gorilla tape

    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    What's your height? Im debating between a 16 and 18. The effective top tube of the 18 is on point but the reach has me scared.
    I'm 173cm. Around 5'7". But I have no clue if it fits great yet. Gotta wait till I can get a ride in.

  41. #41
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    Good job!

    I'm feeling compelled to thank you for a lovely and thoughtful build, not to mention the excitement in seeing how it all comes together. I appreciate your attention to detail. Please share your eventual ride impressions and observations.

    Thanks!

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    Internal SN01 routing

    Hey guys,

    Haven't had time to post updates regularly as I've been researching and building the bike so here comes a few updates.

    So the next part of my build involves getting the Magura MT8 hydraulic brakes routed through the frame.

    Prior to fitting through the hydraulic brake line I actually routed the dropper post housing through - which was pretty straight forward with the front fork removed. Forgot to take photos during the process so here is one after both hydraulic line and the dropper cable are installed:


    I used Magura's youtube videos to help me shortening the brakes. But first I had to route the brakeline through the frame.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ioWZmAo9Xk

    Step 1:
    Mount the brake lever on the handlebar while pointing the hydraulic cable upright. Chop off the brake cable.



    Step 2:
    Unscrew the short bit of the cable from the lever and throw it in the bin. Keep the sleeve nut in you parts bin. Use your finger to stop the little bit of Magura brake fluid from causing a mess on your floor.



    I plugged the other end of the hose using the Magura service kit's plug (which ended up not working out, see below why)

    Just a heads up: the Magura service kit is VERY usefull and I highly recommend getting it. Alternatively, you could probably make your own using some cheap syringes, and correct size tubing. You may have problems bleeding the brakes properly, however, considering the brake caliper screw in adaptor screws directly into the brake caliper.



    The internal routing holes on SN01 frame are too tight/full of paint when they come to you from the factory, at least this is what I found. At first, I thought I would cut the plug down so the brake line would fit into the hole in the frame, and it did, but it then fell out when I was mucking around trying to fit the hose through the top exit on the frame.


    Original condition


    After cleaning the hole with a drill. Dont worry - you wont brake the frame, just take off some paint off the aluminium inserts cast into the frame. I realised they were not carbon after taking a drill to it.



    Step 3:
    Insert the hose (the non-brake caliper end that you cut off) into the bottom hole of the frame:


    Step 4:
    I tried using a string to route it through the top hole - waste of time. The whole at the top is too tight and sits at an angle in the headtube so it is hard to get it in there. The best way I found was to cut the outer 40mm of the hose off the end and fit it through the top hole that way. Use your fingers with the front fork removed to get it in:

    P.S. dont forget to mount your frame upright in the stand to make the job easier and avoid spillage.


    Looking through the headtube down inside the frame after I managed to get the cable through.


    You could see the Magura royal blood is still in there so be careful not to spill it (dont point the cable down.

    It was actually pretty hard to get the hose through the top hole even with the outer of the hose cut off - so dont even bother doing it using some sort of string to pull the hose through unless you have a really skinny brake hoses or drill out a bigger hole.

    After that I cut the hose off and plugged it using one of those black plugs that come with the Magura service kit since I managed to loose the only one white plug that came with the kit (that fits the hose much easier).

    To get the black plug in I had to used a hammer and hold the hose tight with the holding down blocks that came with the kit. That wasn't easy so dont loose the white plug!

    So this is what it looked like after the routing was complete:







    P.S I dont really like how they decided to locate the routing holes. I would rather see the routing port on the actual chainstay right next to the brake caliper location like it is on some other frames. Doesnt leave much room for larger tires.





    The next step was to now bleed the rear brakes.

  43. #43
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    Internal shift cable routing

    But in the meantime I received my new XX1 derailleur and the jagwire shiftkit so I was ready in install all of the internal cabling.






    Pretty compact when folded!



    External jagwire hosing



    Internail shift cable


    Didnt use this waterproof cover - used cable housing the whole way through the frame. People with external cable routing may find this useful.

    With the shift cable routing I used the pre-installed ICAN plastic cables to route the jagwire housing cable through the top tube.



    Using a simpe sticky tape trick. I did, again, have to clean out the holes on the frame to get the cable through.




    This was a lot less painful than my first try with the hydraulics - practice makes perfect! haha



    So, in a nutshell, that was it for the internal routing of all three hoses. You may want to choose different locations for where you cables exit - make that choice before you start your build!


  44. #44
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    Some more parts trickled through from Bike24: bike locks, a triangle bag and a few other goodies.



    I was hesitant to get a frame bag but thought "why not" - as I was going to order other parts form Bike24 anyway. That bag was pretty cheap - $19 AUD.
    Too bad it doesnt fit with a bottle holder in there





    It may fit ok on larger frames though as mine is the smallest 16" size.

    I weighed my bike locks for shits and giggles:










    Kryptolock mounting bracket weight

    The cable puller is a great tool IMO:

    Should hopefully save me a headache or two when installing the rear derailleur.

  45. #45
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    Unstalling the Thompson Covert Dropper Post

    So here is a pic with the dropper post shift cable installed and the fork,stem/handlebars back on.


    A cable cutter is a massive help, by the way, to get the clean cuts on the shift cable. Pretty straight forward job to get the internal metal cable through after that.



    Excuse the crappy quality

    So before installing the dropper post cabling I wanted to make sure it works.
    (Thompson Covert Dropper Post 31.6mm)



    With the dropper cable routed through:

    The bike is starting to look the part haha

    Take the dropper post and insert the stopper metal bit into the bottom of the dropper:






    Insert the seat post into the seat tube:


    I then used the cable puller to test the dropper post operation before going any further to make sure my routing is OK:


    The dropper worked fine! So I was ready to install the rest of the bits:

    Wack on the tensioner bit, a short housing section and the cap.



    I then mounted the covert dropper trigger on the handlebar and tightened the cable.



    Operation install the dropper complete! Works fine but i found that it is a little on the tight side. I have to use a moderate amount of force with to operate the dropper with my thumb. Must be because of the sharp bend it makes at the bottom bracket:





  46. #46
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    Then I had to install the internal shift cable and route it into the derailleur.
    I am not sure what metal cable the shifter came with from SRAM so I decided to swap it with the Jagwire one from the kit even though the looked identical to me. Worst comes to worst - I can always use the original metal cable in the future.



    Open it up:


    Remove the spring:


    Replace the cable:






    Reinstall the spring:


    Close the cover:


    DONE! Took me all of 2 mins.

    I then installed the shifter back on the handlebar and routing the internal cable through the hose that I already installed in the frame:



    Excuse the cable mess! It gets easier!

    Push it out the back:


    Route the cable through the derailleur as per instructions and jam the cable with the derailleur tightening screw:


    Should look nice and neat! I didnt cut off the excess cable just in case I will need to adjust it later.

  47. #47
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    Bleeding the brakes proved the most painful job yet, but after I learned the ropes not so difficult afterall!

    I used this forum post as a reference on how to bleed the brakes:
    New Bleed procedure for MT8 - MAGURA Community

    So I had my hydraulic hose already pulled through the frame and coming out at the headtube - ready to be cut and attached directly into the brake lever.



    First up, I measured up how much length I will need, making sure I was being generous enough to bee able to turn the front wheel 180 degrees. I could always shorten the hose later.



    I then cut the hose using cable cutters, unscrewed the little bit of hose sticking out of the front brake lever and chucked it out while saving the sleeve nut for the parts bin.


    This pic is from the front brake bleed by the way since I forgot to take enough pics when I was bleeding the rear.





    Shorten the hose going towards the brake caliper as per your measurement, install the sleeve nut and the olive (as per magura), hammer in the insert into the end of hose and insert into the brake lever and tighten.


    I modified my hammer into a plastic alternative with some Gorilla tape (lol):







    So this and previous 8 pics were from the front brake install but the procedure is the same as for the rear.

    I installed my rear brake on the left while the hose is going in on the right


    Then before connecting the syringe to the brake caliper take out the brake pads and insert the transport device and secure with a rubber band.

    Then I covered the whole thing up bar the bleeding port with a cloth - to prevent magura hydraulic fluid from contaminating the brakes in case I get any leaks.

    [/URL]

    Then you have to fill the syringe with the magura mineral blood right to the top and squeezing out as much air as possible before starting the bleeding process.






    I then angled the bike at such an angle as to make the hose as straight as possible while going through the frame to make it easier to extract any caught bubbles.

    Insert the other syringe without the plunger into the brake lever's bleeding port nice and tight. I did not have any problems with leaks there.





    After I started bleeding the brake - pushing the fluid through to the top and pulling it back with a vacuum I had the white tube that goes into the bottom syringe fall out under pressure when I was pushing the fluid up into the top syringe.

    So here is where the zip tie comes in to hold it in place - that was a great solution so I could keep the pressure up and not worry about any spillage.




    Some useful tips:
    1) After a bit of pushing and pulling I kept having bubbles come out when pulling into the lower syringe. I must've done it like 20 times and I still had bubbles come out from the system.

    I started getting worried that I simply had a leak somewhere because there were no visible bubbles coming out into the top syringe when I was pushing, only when I was pulling back into the bottom syringe.

    The harder I pulled the more and bigger the bubbles that cam out. But, eventually, they got smaller and smaller and then disappeared almost completely.

    2) The harder you pull, the better - and this is actually the best way of getting rid of the air in the system, not pushing.
    You have to first make sure there is as little air in the syringe as possible so when you pull hard that little tiny bit of air (the bubble in the bottom syringe) expands to 10x or more of its original size, thereby decreasing the pressure in the whole system and expanding the microscopic bubbles inside the system 10x the size also and then forcing them out of the system into the bottom syringe.

    That worked awesomely well. So after realising that I got the brakes sorted pretty quick.

    3) Move the lever around in the handle bar, squeese and release the trigger and shift the lever rotation to squeeze those last bubbles out of the lever. That also cause a lot of air to come out.


    You can see more bubbles when I pull harder coming out.

    Thats it. After the bleeding is sorted (make sure the last bleed was a push - not a pull as per the instructions in the forum post I linked above to avoid brake pads coming apart too far) I just took out the bottom syringe while quickly plugging the hole, then did the same at the top, except I had to plug the syringe with some Gorilla tape to keep the fluid from running out and making a mess.


    I made sure to close the top port quickly to avoid any air entering back into the system.
    Then I repeated the whole thing with the front brake except that it was a lot easier this time and there was no routing to be done.

    And finally, here is the bike with all of the cabling installed:






    I still dont like how the cable is routed to the rear brake:



    So thats it guys! Now all I gotta do is wait for the correct crank to arrive from Jenson along with a lighter stem (Syntace megaforce 2) so I can finish the install of the drivetrain and then wait for the tires to arrive.

    Bike24 still doesnt have any Jumbo Jims in stock so I am a little stuck with the wait
    Cant WAIT!

    P.S I think I bled the brakes a tad too well because now the bite point is like IMMIDIATE and I am getting a tiny bit of disc brake hitting the brake pad on both front and rear at a single point on the disc.
    Basically, the discs came in slightly not true. I had to bend the rear disc in one spot to make it a bit better and at one point I got rid of the slight rubbing on the rear but it comes back as soon as I spin the wheel fast and then stop it HARD with the brake.

    Not sure what to do here. Any help guys?

    I think there is wayyy too little room between the brake pads and the discs (like 0.5mm on either side). I am not sure what to do short of removing some fluid out of the hydraulic system so that the brake pads come a bit futher apart from each other to stop the rubbing.

  48. #48
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    Very nice thread, i'm currently await my CS-018 frame (Same as SN01 just different name)

    Would you mind posting up a picture with coloured lines to show your cable routing throughout the frame?

    Keep up the great work! bike looks great too!!

  49. #49
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    There you go!

  50. #50
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    Thanks very much

  51. #51
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    Nice thread mate.....thanks for pming me the link on facebook
    Get out and ride

  52. #52
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    Some serious weenie factor in this thread.
    Let us know how those wheels work out after you have some miles on them - I'm curious.

  53. #53
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    Cool-blue Rhythm Test ride went well!!!

    Hey guys sorry for no updates for so long. I was waiting on the jumbo jim tires to arrive and they are STILL on backorder

    So after the crank and the stem had arrived I wasted no time in putting them on. Finally the correct one PLUS I had to get them to send me the correct size spacers from the US and they sent me the wrong ones first - so on a third attempt I got the correct spacers duh!










    Bunch of spacers they sent me lol - I only needed three 2mm ones and I got like a gazillion different ones so if anyone wants the ones for 100mm BB PM me!




    So I got tired of waiting and hit up my local ozzy fatbike community for some help. Thanks to the generosity of a few nice fatbikers I got myself some tubes and tires to use until I get the real deal and set it all up tubeless.
    Thanks GUYS! If you let me know your MTB usernames (if you are on here Ill name n shame lol








    One tire down, one to go!


    Now for the rear. Total wheel weight with tubes, tires, discs 3.351


    Chainline in the lowest gear - quiet a bend!
    It was making a fair bit of knocking noise when I was spinning the crank.
    I then messed around with the crank and took out one spacer on the drive side and put it on the left and that, as well as some tinkering with the rear derailleur seemed to stop most of the noise.


    Thats a Maxxis Mammoth 4.0 tire. Plenty of room.


    Chainline clearance shot


    Clearance at the bottom


    Front needs a bigger tire PERIOD! lol

    So I have postal scales and tried to position them on top of a table while resting the bike on top. Took a bit of fiddling but this is what I got:

    Probably safe to assume its under 10.5kg (or 23 pounds in US speak).

    And thats when I decided to go for a ride!

    WOoohooo.
    For the first test ride I went down to the local park and found a hill with a few decent climb bits. That went well. Even scared an owl from nearby trees while smashing some tall grass.


    The 30t chainring seems to be perfect. I haven't spun out so far when going fast and on the lowest gear it climbs like a tank up until the point I lose traction or the bike wants to make a backflip if I sit too far back. Might as well jump off and walk if the gears were any lower!

    The dropper post. Oh my god that thing is AWESOME! I would recommend anyone who does some serious MTB riding to get one. I drop it right down to BMX height before taking some serious drop-offs and its a piece of cake!

    Parts list in the end of it all (Let me know if you want all the prices):
    Last edited by bombermate; 06-14-2015 at 04:32 AM.

  54. #54
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    So it was a long weekend here in Australia and I went camping with the gf.
    I loved the awesomeness of this fatty.
    In here we have whats called a "malee" - scrub land with sandy soil. I think I put the tires down to around 7psi at MOST and hit the scrub.


    No trails, no roads, just pure riding wherever I please chasing kangaroos and rabbits. Hella fun, the bike held up well, goes through ANYTHING, rides on the side of a hill, LOADS of traction! I'm in love haha!
    Only wish I have is a higher BB bracket so I get less pedal strikes when riding off camber on the side of a hill or when simply going over logs and rocks.





    The malee








    After the trip I received another 2nd hand tire (as the rear one I got given was lended to me just for the weekend and this one arrived from one of the awesome blokes in Newcastle (NSW). P.S. he makes some great bike bags.
    Hit him up at Bike Bag Dude Custom Frame Bags and Bikepacking Gear Australia (I gotta repay his awesomeness somehow!)

    Vee tire 26x4.7 Snowshoe


    New clearance shots:


    At bottom of chain



    So I went down to a local MTB park today. I was also testing my handlebar height and set it above a 20mm spacer. Before that I had it set all the way up as high as possible (and I loved the comfort it gave me when riding)


    Local trails

    I seem to have trouble with the handlebars being too low. When I get out of the saddle and pull on the handlebars while powering up the hill I sometimes hit the handlebars with my knees (if the steering is slightly off straight) and I also cant keep my back straight as my body simply doesnt fit.

    I know high handlebar is a safety issue but I am at a loss of how to solve it: I either cut the steerer and have back pain or I leave it high and ride in comfort.



    On the other side of the coin, going downhill on a black run was a LOT OF FUN. Going around tight bends is hella fun while locking the rear brake and the control of the brakes is prett sweet!


    Note the stem sticking up stupid high lol


    Trail sign says dont go without protective gear so I did it slow







    I did get one little hiccup during the ride: broke my chain (thats was my 4th ride by the way) while powering uphill. Lucky I had this little gem so I took out two links in the chain and reconnected it all up. No problems riding more trails after that.
    This:
    wiggle.com.au | Topeak Ratchet Rocket RX Chain Tool | Workshop Tools
    Together with this:
    wiggle.com.au | Topeak Ratchet Rocket RX 12 Function Multi Tool | Tools - Multi Tools



    Gave it a wash and hung up to dry lol!

    So my questions to you guys are:
    1) If the brakes still rub after a bit of riding whats the best way to stop that (I still get spot rubs due to the discs being not perfectly true)
    2) Best way to get my handlebars up high enough for comfort while doing it safely

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    2) Best way to get my handlebars up high enough for comfort while doing it safely
    I would raise it up and try a longer stem. If you have a few different stems, try going up 5-10mm with a longer stem each time. See what feels good.

  56. #56
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    Disks and pads will bed in, should go silent assuming your caliber is aligned properly.

    You can use spacers like you have to give yourself height. Also rise in a stem and riser handlebars. It's personally pref, i run 15mm spacers and a small rise handlebar.

    I don't like to much height.
    Carbon Fat Bike Rider

  57. #57
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    If you do an endo, or worse, a face plant on that stem you will be missing an eye, a broken nose or jaw. Also, if an endo, the stem will snag your pants and nads on the way over the bars. First think safety, then coolness factor last.

  58. #58
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    Hey guys, a bit of an update:

    I contacted ICAN directly and they told me that their rated maximum stem spacer height is 42mm. So I cut the steerer down and put 2x20mm stem spacers under there.

    I also ordered and got myself a new high-rise handlebar from Answer.
    Result: now I have no problems when powering up a hill. I can actually keep my back straight and pull on the handlebars hard to be able to put the torque down onto the pedals.

    I didnt really want to go the long stem way because:
    a) the one I already got (2nd one) cost me an arm and a leg and is very light and
    b) from reading a bunch of articles I came to the conclusion that a shorter stem gives you much better control, especially on single track while wider bars also add to that control on the trail.

    Downhill is pretty awesome and overall I felt much more comfortable on the bike this last weekend. Had some fun in a local MTB park in Adelaide.

    P.S Lots of pics below show my seat height at its lowest setting - thats because I have a dropper post and drop it right down when the going gets rough. There is a pic or two in there with the actual seat post height I use when pedaling normally.
















    This pic shows the "normal" height I use my dropper at.

    Feedback on the bike itself:
    The bike hasnt missed a beat. I did crash it twice now - over the handlebars both times lol. Did a bunch of smallish jumps and all is good. I can follow single track 180 degree turns without too much trouble so the handling is there although I have no point of reference as this is my first "proper" bike I spent over $300 on haha.

    Question: does anyone know of a fat bike fender that attaches to the actual fork and turns with the front wheel instead of resting on the underside of the frame?

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    Question: does anyone know of a fat bike fender that attaches to the actual fork and turns with the front wheel instead of resting on the underside of the frame?
    SKS Grand MOM or DAD..whichever is for the front
    Mike
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    2017 Trek Farley 9.6 with Lauf
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    2016 Scott Solace 10 Disc

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    SKS Grand MOM or DAD..whichever is for the front
    Hey mate I checked out SKS Grand DAD - it seems a little on the thin side and appears to be mounted using an expander bolt that goes through the bottom of the front fork. But my carbon fork doesnt have a hole in there!

    Otherwise that design looks like a winner!

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    Hey mate I checked out SKS Grand DAD - it seems a little on the thin side and appears to be mounted using an expander bolt that goes through the bottom of the front fork. But my carbon fork doesnt have a hole in there!

    Otherwise that design looks like a winner!
    Damn, you're right. I had one on my old bike that had a steel fork.

    I guess it won't work with my Bluto either.
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2017 Trek Farley 9.6 with Lauf
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    2016 Scott Solace 10 Disc

  62. #62
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    Build your dream chinese carbon fatty!-image.jpg

    The GrandDad does work on the Bluto; I'm using one with mine.

    Not that this fact is in anyway helpful to a carbon fork user!
    MacGyver is my spirit animal

    -Until proven wrong, assume you are the weak link in any system-

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by WSUPolar View Post
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    The GrandDad does work on the Bluto; I'm using one with mine.

    Not that this fact is in anyway helpful to a carbon fork user!
    excellent, thanks!

    I guess i'll get a cold weather kit for my Bluto rather than a carbon fork for winter use...I can then use the fender with it.
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2017 Trek Farley 9.6 with Lauf
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    2016 Scott Solace 10 Disc

  64. #64
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    Nice rig!! Is that a Nissan Patrol?

    I would like to see some prices. I'm looking at doing this, My goal is to stay around the $2k mark. Is that possible?

    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    Sweet man, how much does that thing from cane creek weigh? I'm gonna get that ordered quicksmart unless its just too heavy compared to the stock one.

    For the rack I just recently acquired an ISI carrier (the long version). Test fit pics below using a shitty apollo and my gfs road bike:





    Cannondale Super V700
    '14 Charge Cooker Maxi lefty and stuff

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by smileyboy View Post
    Nice rig!! Is that a Nissan Patrol?

    I would like to see some prices. I'm looking at doing this, My goal is to stay around the $2k mark. Is that possible?
    Of course, depending if you will need to include tools in the price of course. Its just a matter of selecting the right components.

    You start out with the base price: frame, fork, seat post, headset, steering bar and the stem from china ==> and then choose the groupset that will make it under the budget. The bike wont be as light, but it will be pretty good for the price!

    So this is what I spent for the carbon parts:
    Frame 420
    Fork 120
    Handlebars 25
    Wheels 525
    Headset 10
    Bottle Cage 12
    Seat Post 28
    Clamp 4
    Spacers 2.5
    Paypal comission 59
    Shipping to AUS 138
    TOTAL $1343.5 USD

    So now you have $650 left to spend on the other bits. Maybe a little tough, but probably doable. Add a stem (chinese also sell these) for probably another $25-30.

    Others may have to chime in here on what groupset is the best to fit into budget and pair that up with fatbike cranks and chainring.

    You may have to up the budget a bit though for an 11 speed groupset with one chainring upfront - thats what I would recommend.

    Cheers

  66. #66
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    Bring this back from the hibernate. How did those "patches" (gorilla tape) work out for you once your jumbo Jims came in? How many 0z of Stan's did you use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rahkne View Post
    Bring this back from the hibernate. How did those "patches" (gorilla tape) work out for you once your jumbo Jims came in? How many 0z of Stan's did you use?
    Hey mate,
    The patches went fine. But I dare say I must've stuffed the rear a little. The front is solid and doesn't leak at all. Rear was consistently leaking just slightly (goes soft overnight).

    Now after 3 months or so both went soft - I am assuming the stans dried out and needs a refill. But I hit a snag. While prepping the bike for the world fatbike day I noticed that my rear Cassette was flopping about on the axle. Upon further investigation I found that the XD driver body from they Powerway-74 hub had failed bearings.

    The balls literally split in half and busted completely. So I had to contact ICAN and get replacements. Luckily they agreed to send me replacement XD driver body for free, only charging me the postage costs. Now I am waiting for them to arrive so I can sort the bike out and then get the wheels tyres sorted with a stans refill.

    I beleive I used about 150 ml in each - 1 and a half full of the stans injector in each.

    Warning to those going for jumbo jims: rear will rub with higher pressures (when riding on tarmac) so you will either have to run lower pressure or cut off the two rows of side knobs a little. Its a close fit!

  68. #68
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    With the patches - the hardest part is not "ripping" them off when installing the tyres onto the wheels. It seemed to work perfectly on the front tyre. I was a bit lazy on the rear (its a bloody struggle getting the tyres seated) so in haste I forced the tyre onto the rim and I think ripped one or two of the patches off.

  69. #69
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    Hey thanks for the update, I do have one other question for you. First off, I pretty much had the same experience as you, front went on super easy, no leaks, the rear was a bugger, fortunately no ripped patches and the tires seem to be holding now after a few days of shaken them up and sealing every little leak. I'm also noticing that the jumbo's are so freaking close, I'll have to give it a go at a lower pressure. Slightly disappointed. I'm prepared to trim up the tread.

    K question, you installed an IS41 headset, the more I read I'm seeing that almost everyone went with a IS42. How was your fit, any issues?

    Thanks

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rahkne View Post
    Hey thanks for the update, I do have one other question for you. First off, I pretty much had the same experience as you, front went on super easy, no leaks, the rear was a bugger, fortunately no ripped patches and the tires seem to be holding now after a few days of shaken them up and sealing every little leak. I'm also noticing that the jumbo's are so freaking close, I'll have to give it a go at a lower pressure. Slightly disappointed. I'm prepared to trim up the tread.

    K question, you installed an IS41 headset, the more I read I'm seeing that almost everyone went with a IS42. How was your fit, any issues?

    Thanks
    I had a lot of issues at first since I did not know how that particular headset actually worked. But then I took my bike to my lbs and it turns out I was not tightening it up correctly.

    First off, use carbon paste.

    Second, loosen the bolts for the steerer tube

    Third, take off the top cap and look inside.
    Loosen the bolt and take out the 'hat' that is the part that actually expands and 'grabs' the fork internals. Carbon paste that shit.
    Then put it back in. Tighten it up nice n tight.
    Make sure the inside 'hat' is sitting low enough as to not touch the top cap when that is back on.
    Put the top cap back on and crank the top cap bolt. Then try to 'feel' if the 'hat' is moving the expanders inside the fork as you are tightening the top cap bolt.

    I found that if the top cap bolt is too easy to turn and its not getting any tighter as you turn it, then the expander is moving inside the fork and hence needs more tightening.

    You'll need to go back to square one and re-tighten the 'hat' bolt a bit more. Then try the process again. In about three tries I managed to get it all tight - I'm pretty sure I used more torque than recommended. But that was the only way to stop it from slipping.

    After that I had no issues 'touch wood'. I check it every now and then and can't detect any wobble.

  71. #71
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    Cool-blue Rhythm Bikepacking setup planning

    Hey guys.

    Success with the rear hub replacement. Went in without any issues. Bike was back on the road in no time.

    In the meantime I've been searching for the perfect bike packing setup for this bike. Since I'm in Australia, I'm thinking I'll need to find a way to carry more water along with my gear.

    Bike packing requirements:
    1) Water carrying capacity
    2) Carry OMD em-5 camera and a few lenses safely
    3) Keep weight off my back
    4) Keep the dropper post as I love it - hence no seat bags
    5) Keep weight to a minimum

    Problems:
    1) Small frame triangle with very limited room for frame bag. Only fits on bottle
    2) Dropper post in its lowest position won't allow any saddle bags unless they are tiny
    3) Can't really put bags on top of top tube. Maybe a small one just in front of the seatpost. I find that when I pedal my knees use pretty much the whole area above the top tube. Even near the stem - when I'm pedalling out of the saddle.

    So that leaves me with two storage options: rear rack or in front of handlebars.

    So after researching online I found that most fatty specific racks are over engineered and heavy. Then I came across a forum post talking about modifying a normal bike rack into a fatty rack - the Topeak Explorer 29'er disc brake version.
    https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...c)-(w-o-spring)


    At 680 grams, it was the perfect candidate. What's even better, all you have to do is cut the disc brake extension fittings and you pretty much have a rack that fits the 197mm rear perfectly.

    So here are the pics of the build this morning followed by a test ride.








    The tool. Dremel 200. Cheap from Bunnings.








    Trial fit


    Getting the right length to fit inside the rack fitting without being too long so it doesn't compromise the rigidity of the final product.












































    As per instructions from Topeak!








    Rack sits on a bit of a forward angle.










  72. #72
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    Even scored a comment from a young kid with his dad: "awesome", followed by: "its even got a rack!"

    Now to decide what I will need for the handlebar bag. I am thinking of ditching the backpack completely and putting the camera gear in there.

    Also now looking at ways to mount more water bottles and maybe even panniers. But with such short chainstay length it may be difficult to find panniers that won't be hit by the back of my legs as I'm pedalling.

    Any ideas guys please let me know!

  73. #73
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    Since the rack addition I bought some extra long 'arms' for the rear rack from Topeka for $15 at my lbs. Easy fix.

    In the meantime the fatty has found its way onto some local mtb tracks

    Build your dream chinese carbon fatty!-16142957_1838320283109442_3969903301162721876_n.jpgBuild your dream chinese carbon fatty!-16195747_1838320233109447_341135201637855865_n.jpg

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