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  1. #51
    OHV Gansta
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    Nice thread mate.....thanks for pming me the link on facebook
    Get out and ride

  2. #52
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    Some serious weenie factor in this thread.
    Let us know how those wheels work out after you have some miles on them - I'm curious.

  3. #53
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    Cool-blue Rhythm Test ride went well!!!

    Hey guys sorry for no updates for so long. I was waiting on the jumbo jim tires to arrive and they are STILL on backorder

    So after the crank and the stem had arrived I wasted no time in putting them on. Finally the correct one PLUS I had to get them to send me the correct size spacers from the US and they sent me the wrong ones first - so on a third attempt I got the correct spacers duh!










    Bunch of spacers they sent me lol - I only needed three 2mm ones and I got like a gazillion different ones so if anyone wants the ones for 100mm BB PM me!




    So I got tired of waiting and hit up my local ozzy fatbike community for some help. Thanks to the generosity of a few nice fatbikers I got myself some tubes and tires to use until I get the real deal and set it all up tubeless.
    Thanks GUYS! If you let me know your MTB usernames (if you are on here Ill name n shame lol








    One tire down, one to go!


    Now for the rear. Total wheel weight with tubes, tires, discs 3.351


    Chainline in the lowest gear - quiet a bend!
    It was making a fair bit of knocking noise when I was spinning the crank.
    I then messed around with the crank and took out one spacer on the drive side and put it on the left and that, as well as some tinkering with the rear derailleur seemed to stop most of the noise.


    Thats a Maxxis Mammoth 4.0 tire. Plenty of room.


    Chainline clearance shot


    Clearance at the bottom


    Front needs a bigger tire PERIOD! lol

    So I have postal scales and tried to position them on top of a table while resting the bike on top. Took a bit of fiddling but this is what I got:

    Probably safe to assume its under 10.5kg (or 23 pounds in US speak).

    And thats when I decided to go for a ride!

    WOoohooo.
    For the first test ride I went down to the local park and found a hill with a few decent climb bits. That went well. Even scared an owl from nearby trees while smashing some tall grass.


    The 30t chainring seems to be perfect. I haven't spun out so far when going fast and on the lowest gear it climbs like a tank up until the point I lose traction or the bike wants to make a backflip if I sit too far back. Might as well jump off and walk if the gears were any lower!

    The dropper post. Oh my god that thing is AWESOME! I would recommend anyone who does some serious MTB riding to get one. I drop it right down to BMX height before taking some serious drop-offs and its a piece of cake!

    Parts list in the end of it all (Let me know if you want all the prices):
    Last edited by bombermate; 06-14-2015 at 04:32 AM.

  4. #54
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    So it was a long weekend here in Australia and I went camping with the gf.
    I loved the awesomeness of this fatty.
    In here we have whats called a "malee" - scrub land with sandy soil. I think I put the tires down to around 7psi at MOST and hit the scrub.


    No trails, no roads, just pure riding wherever I please chasing kangaroos and rabbits. Hella fun, the bike held up well, goes through ANYTHING, rides on the side of a hill, LOADS of traction! I'm in love haha!
    Only wish I have is a higher BB bracket so I get less pedal strikes when riding off camber on the side of a hill or when simply going over logs and rocks.





    The malee








    After the trip I received another 2nd hand tire (as the rear one I got given was lended to me just for the weekend and this one arrived from one of the awesome blokes in Newcastle (NSW). P.S. he makes some great bike bags.
    Hit him up at Bike Bag Dude Custom Frame Bags and Bikepacking Gear Australia (I gotta repay his awesomeness somehow!)

    Vee tire 26x4.7 Snowshoe


    New clearance shots:


    At bottom of chain



    So I went down to a local MTB park today. I was also testing my handlebar height and set it above a 20mm spacer. Before that I had it set all the way up as high as possible (and I loved the comfort it gave me when riding)


    Local trails

    I seem to have trouble with the handlebars being too low. When I get out of the saddle and pull on the handlebars while powering up the hill I sometimes hit the handlebars with my knees (if the steering is slightly off straight) and I also cant keep my back straight as my body simply doesnt fit.

    I know high handlebar is a safety issue but I am at a loss of how to solve it: I either cut the steerer and have back pain or I leave it high and ride in comfort.



    On the other side of the coin, going downhill on a black run was a LOT OF FUN. Going around tight bends is hella fun while locking the rear brake and the control of the brakes is prett sweet!


    Note the stem sticking up stupid high lol


    Trail sign says dont go without protective gear so I did it slow







    I did get one little hiccup during the ride: broke my chain (thats was my 4th ride by the way) while powering uphill. Lucky I had this little gem so I took out two links in the chain and reconnected it all up. No problems riding more trails after that.
    This:
    wiggle.com.au | Topeak Ratchet Rocket RX Chain Tool | Workshop Tools
    Together with this:
    wiggle.com.au | Topeak Ratchet Rocket RX 12 Function Multi Tool | Tools - Multi Tools



    Gave it a wash and hung up to dry lol!

    So my questions to you guys are:
    1) If the brakes still rub after a bit of riding whats the best way to stop that (I still get spot rubs due to the discs being not perfectly true)
    2) Best way to get my handlebars up high enough for comfort while doing it safely

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    2) Best way to get my handlebars up high enough for comfort while doing it safely
    I would raise it up and try a longer stem. If you have a few different stems, try going up 5-10mm with a longer stem each time. See what feels good.

  6. #56
    Trail Rat
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    Disks and pads will bed in, should go silent assuming your caliber is aligned properly.

    You can use spacers like you have to give yourself height. Also rise in a stem and riser handlebars. It's personally pref, i run 15mm spacers and a small rise handlebar.

    I don't like to much height.
    Carbon Fat Bike Rider

  7. #57
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    If you do an endo, or worse, a face plant on that stem you will be missing an eye, a broken nose or jaw. Also, if an endo, the stem will snag your pants and nads on the way over the bars. First think safety, then coolness factor last.

  8. #58
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    Hey guys, a bit of an update:

    I contacted ICAN directly and they told me that their rated maximum stem spacer height is 42mm. So I cut the steerer down and put 2x20mm stem spacers under there.

    I also ordered and got myself a new high-rise handlebar from Answer.
    Result: now I have no problems when powering up a hill. I can actually keep my back straight and pull on the handlebars hard to be able to put the torque down onto the pedals.

    I didnt really want to go the long stem way because:
    a) the one I already got (2nd one) cost me an arm and a leg and is very light and
    b) from reading a bunch of articles I came to the conclusion that a shorter stem gives you much better control, especially on single track while wider bars also add to that control on the trail.

    Downhill is pretty awesome and overall I felt much more comfortable on the bike this last weekend. Had some fun in a local MTB park in Adelaide.

    P.S Lots of pics below show my seat height at its lowest setting - thats because I have a dropper post and drop it right down when the going gets rough. There is a pic or two in there with the actual seat post height I use when pedaling normally.
















    This pic shows the "normal" height I use my dropper at.

    Feedback on the bike itself:
    The bike hasnt missed a beat. I did crash it twice now - over the handlebars both times lol. Did a bunch of smallish jumps and all is good. I can follow single track 180 degree turns without too much trouble so the handling is there although I have no point of reference as this is my first "proper" bike I spent over $300 on haha.

    Question: does anyone know of a fat bike fender that attaches to the actual fork and turns with the front wheel instead of resting on the underside of the frame?

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    Question: does anyone know of a fat bike fender that attaches to the actual fork and turns with the front wheel instead of resting on the underside of the frame?
    SKS Grand MOM or DAD..whichever is for the front
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2016 Trek Farley 7
    2015 RSD Mayor Bluto (sold)
    2014 Giant TCX SLR1
    2012 Giant TCR Advanced SL3

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    SKS Grand MOM or DAD..whichever is for the front
    Hey mate I checked out SKS Grand DAD - it seems a little on the thin side and appears to be mounted using an expander bolt that goes through the bottom of the front fork. But my carbon fork doesnt have a hole in there!

    Otherwise that design looks like a winner!

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    Hey mate I checked out SKS Grand DAD - it seems a little on the thin side and appears to be mounted using an expander bolt that goes through the bottom of the front fork. But my carbon fork doesnt have a hole in there!

    Otherwise that design looks like a winner!
    Damn, you're right. I had one on my old bike that had a steel fork.

    I guess it won't work with my Bluto either.
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2016 Trek Farley 7
    2015 RSD Mayor Bluto (sold)
    2014 Giant TCX SLR1
    2012 Giant TCR Advanced SL3

  12. #62
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    Build your dream chinese carbon fatty!-image.jpg

    The GrandDad does work on the Bluto; I'm using one with mine.

    Not that this fact is in anyway helpful to a carbon fork user!
    MacGyver is my spirit animal

    -Until proven wrong, assume you are the weak link in any system-

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by WSUPolar View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The GrandDad does work on the Bluto; I'm using one with mine.

    Not that this fact is in anyway helpful to a carbon fork user!
    excellent, thanks!

    I guess i'll get a cold weather kit for my Bluto rather than a carbon fork for winter use...I can then use the fender with it.
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2016 Trek Farley 7
    2015 RSD Mayor Bluto (sold)
    2014 Giant TCX SLR1
    2012 Giant TCR Advanced SL3

  14. #64
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    Nice rig!! Is that a Nissan Patrol?

    I would like to see some prices. I'm looking at doing this, My goal is to stay around the $2k mark. Is that possible?

    Quote Originally Posted by bombermate View Post
    Sweet man, how much does that thing from cane creek weigh? I'm gonna get that ordered quicksmart unless its just too heavy compared to the stock one.

    For the rack I just recently acquired an ISI carrier (the long version). Test fit pics below using a shitty apollo and my gfs road bike:





    Cannondale Super V700
    '14 Charge Cooker Maxi lefty and stuff

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by smileyboy View Post
    Nice rig!! Is that a Nissan Patrol?

    I would like to see some prices. I'm looking at doing this, My goal is to stay around the $2k mark. Is that possible?
    Of course, depending if you will need to include tools in the price of course. Its just a matter of selecting the right components.

    You start out with the base price: frame, fork, seat post, headset, steering bar and the stem from china ==> and then choose the groupset that will make it under the budget. The bike wont be as light, but it will be pretty good for the price!

    So this is what I spent for the carbon parts:
    Frame 420
    Fork 120
    Handlebars 25
    Wheels 525
    Headset 10
    Bottle Cage 12
    Seat Post 28
    Clamp 4
    Spacers 2.5
    Paypal comission 59
    Shipping to AUS 138
    TOTAL $1343.5 USD

    So now you have $650 left to spend on the other bits. Maybe a little tough, but probably doable. Add a stem (chinese also sell these) for probably another $25-30.

    Others may have to chime in here on what groupset is the best to fit into budget and pair that up with fatbike cranks and chainring.

    You may have to up the budget a bit though for an 11 speed groupset with one chainring upfront - thats what I would recommend.

    Cheers

  16. #66
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    Bring this back from the hibernate. How did those "patches" (gorilla tape) work out for you once your jumbo Jims came in? How many 0z of Stan's did you use?

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rahkne View Post
    Bring this back from the hibernate. How did those "patches" (gorilla tape) work out for you once your jumbo Jims came in? How many 0z of Stan's did you use?
    Hey mate,
    The patches went fine. But I dare say I must've stuffed the rear a little. The front is solid and doesn't leak at all. Rear was consistently leaking just slightly (goes soft overnight).

    Now after 3 months or so both went soft - I am assuming the stans dried out and needs a refill. But I hit a snag. While prepping the bike for the world fatbike day I noticed that my rear Cassette was flopping about on the axle. Upon further investigation I found that the XD driver body from they Powerway-74 hub had failed bearings.

    The balls literally split in half and busted completely. So I had to contact ICAN and get replacements. Luckily they agreed to send me replacement XD driver body for free, only charging me the postage costs. Now I am waiting for them to arrive so I can sort the bike out and then get the wheels tyres sorted with a stans refill.

    I beleive I used about 150 ml in each - 1 and a half full of the stans injector in each.

    Warning to those going for jumbo jims: rear will rub with higher pressures (when riding on tarmac) so you will either have to run lower pressure or cut off the two rows of side knobs a little. Its a close fit!

  18. #68
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    With the patches - the hardest part is not "ripping" them off when installing the tyres onto the wheels. It seemed to work perfectly on the front tyre. I was a bit lazy on the rear (its a bloody struggle getting the tyres seated) so in haste I forced the tyre onto the rim and I think ripped one or two of the patches off.

  19. #69
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    Hey thanks for the update, I do have one other question for you. First off, I pretty much had the same experience as you, front went on super easy, no leaks, the rear was a bugger, fortunately no ripped patches and the tires seem to be holding now after a few days of shaken them up and sealing every little leak. I'm also noticing that the jumbo's are so freaking close, I'll have to give it a go at a lower pressure. Slightly disappointed. I'm prepared to trim up the tread.

    K question, you installed an IS41 headset, the more I read I'm seeing that almost everyone went with a IS42. How was your fit, any issues?

    Thanks

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rahkne View Post
    Hey thanks for the update, I do have one other question for you. First off, I pretty much had the same experience as you, front went on super easy, no leaks, the rear was a bugger, fortunately no ripped patches and the tires seem to be holding now after a few days of shaken them up and sealing every little leak. I'm also noticing that the jumbo's are so freaking close, I'll have to give it a go at a lower pressure. Slightly disappointed. I'm prepared to trim up the tread.

    K question, you installed an IS41 headset, the more I read I'm seeing that almost everyone went with a IS42. How was your fit, any issues?

    Thanks
    I had a lot of issues at first since I did not know how that particular headset actually worked. But then I took my bike to my lbs and it turns out I was not tightening it up correctly.

    First off, use carbon paste.

    Second, loosen the bolts for the steerer tube

    Third, take off the top cap and look inside.
    Loosen the bolt and take out the 'hat' that is the part that actually expands and 'grabs' the fork internals. Carbon paste that shit.
    Then put it back in. Tighten it up nice n tight.
    Make sure the inside 'hat' is sitting low enough as to not touch the top cap when that is back on.
    Put the top cap back on and crank the top cap bolt. Then try to 'feel' if the 'hat' is moving the expanders inside the fork as you are tightening the top cap bolt.

    I found that if the top cap bolt is too easy to turn and its not getting any tighter as you turn it, then the expander is moving inside the fork and hence needs more tightening.

    You'll need to go back to square one and re-tighten the 'hat' bolt a bit more. Then try the process again. In about three tries I managed to get it all tight - I'm pretty sure I used more torque than recommended. But that was the only way to stop it from slipping.

    After that I had no issues 'touch wood'. I check it every now and then and can't detect any wobble.

  21. #71
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    Cool-blue Rhythm Bikepacking setup planning

    Hey guys.

    Success with the rear hub replacement. Went in without any issues. Bike was back on the road in no time.

    In the meantime I've been searching for the perfect bike packing setup for this bike. Since I'm in Australia, I'm thinking I'll need to find a way to carry more water along with my gear.

    Bike packing requirements:
    1) Water carrying capacity
    2) Carry OMD em-5 camera and a few lenses safely
    3) Keep weight off my back
    4) Keep the dropper post as I love it - hence no seat bags
    5) Keep weight to a minimum

    Problems:
    1) Small frame triangle with very limited room for frame bag. Only fits on bottle
    2) Dropper post in its lowest position won't allow any saddle bags unless they are tiny
    3) Can't really put bags on top of top tube. Maybe a small one just in front of the seatpost. I find that when I pedal my knees use pretty much the whole area above the top tube. Even near the stem - when I'm pedalling out of the saddle.

    So that leaves me with two storage options: rear rack or in front of handlebars.

    So after researching online I found that most fatty specific racks are over engineered and heavy. Then I came across a forum post talking about modifying a normal bike rack into a fatty rack - the Topeak Explorer 29'er disc brake version.
    https://www.topeak.com/global/en/pro...c)-(w-o-spring)


    At 680 grams, it was the perfect candidate. What's even better, all you have to do is cut the disc brake extension fittings and you pretty much have a rack that fits the 197mm rear perfectly.

    So here are the pics of the build this morning followed by a test ride.








    The tool. Dremel 200. Cheap from Bunnings.








    Trial fit


    Getting the right length to fit inside the rack fitting without being too long so it doesn't compromise the rigidity of the final product.












































    As per instructions from Topeak!








    Rack sits on a bit of a forward angle.










  22. #72
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    Even scored a comment from a young kid with his dad: "awesome", followed by: "its even got a rack!"

    Now to decide what I will need for the handlebar bag. I am thinking of ditching the backpack completely and putting the camera gear in there.

    Also now looking at ways to mount more water bottles and maybe even panniers. But with such short chainstay length it may be difficult to find panniers that won't be hit by the back of my legs as I'm pedalling.

    Any ideas guys please let me know!

  23. #73
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    Since the rack addition I bought some extra long 'arms' for the rear rack from Topeka for $15 at my lbs. Easy fix.

    In the meantime the fatty has found its way onto some local mtb tracks

    Build your dream chinese carbon fatty!-16142957_1838320283109442_3969903301162721876_n.jpgBuild your dream chinese carbon fatty!-16195747_1838320233109447_341135201637855865_n.jpg

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