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  1. #1
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    I know this is a more limited group, but for any/ all Bluto adopters, where are you running your fork? I am having to drop my pressure way below recommended to get any good action out of the fork and get full travel. Even at 75psi, I get 15% sag and the fork feels super stiction-ey. Dropped it down to 65 to try later today. I'm 165- 170 all kitted up, so should be 100+ psi.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  2. #2
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    Sure, now that I have the thing on order someone posts something negative. I'll be able to join in on this discussion on Saturday (maybe).

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    Ha! Not negative- I've been super happy with it, but I am pretty picky about how my suspension feels. I've still only had it on maybe 4 rides (busy summer plus 2 other bikes that I regularly ride), but it feels stiffer than I want it to, and it looks like I'm only getting about 2/3 of my stroke. I'm going to put some slick honey on the stanchions and have it on a few more rides with lower pressure before I decide to tear it apart. Maybe it just needs to be broken in?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  4. #4
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    What kind of trails and riding were you doing that required a lower than recommended type of pressure? Do you consider yourself to a casual rider who prefers soft suspension or an aggressive rider who prefers stiff suspension?


    I rode my bluto for the first time last night, but just around the block a few times.

    It seemed stictiony, but only like a new fork normally does. In my experience, it takes a few rides for fork bushings to loosen.

    Also, turning the compression knob made a surprisingly huge difference in the typical push down on the bars test. Unfortunately I threw away the manual and can't find it online so it isn't clear exactly what that knob does within the fork.

    I had to use slightly more pressure than recommended to get the desired stiffness. Instead of worrying about sag, I normally aim for a pressure that prevents bottoming except when something extreme happens. As the fork breaks in, it'll need some tweaking for sure. But for a starting point, I'm running 105psi for 160 pounds of rider and gear.

  5. #5
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    My normal method of setting up a fork is like yours dfiler, I want to use all the travel when I am riding aggressively and don't want excessive bob when I'm pedaling. I'll start with the recommended psi and work my way to the right spot.

  6. #6
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    dfiler- I'm a pretty aggressive rider. The trails I ride are chunky and techy, dry, Colorado front-range trails. I am pretty savvy to suspension, but this felt more stictiony than I thought- it very well could be that it just needs to break in, but with the fork at recommended PSI and the compression all the way open, it's tough to even compress the fork very far, and, like I said, I am only getting about 60% of my stroke.

    The blue knob is your compression damper. Typically, the damper has oil flowing through it- either in an "open bath" or enclosed "bladder." Either way, the oil/ fluid is flowing through the damper assembly and through various ports. When the blue knob is all the way open (counter clockwise), it's allowing as much fluid to pass through those ports as possible. As you turn the knob clockwise, you are, in essence, closing off those ports, making it harder for the fluid to flow through and thus harder to compress the fork. All the way clockwise is "locked out" (though it will blow through if it needs to on a bigger hit to prevent damage to the fork). FixieDave hypothesized that it could be that some of these ports are clogged, but, again, I'll probably give it a bunch more rides before I take it apart- just wanted to see if anyone else was experiencing similar stuff.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  7. #7
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    That's how I would describe compression damping as well. I'm interested in the specific type of valving but not enough to break the fork down before it needs service.

    It will be interesting to see if your fork breaks in at all. I'll report back with my findings as well.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Unfortunately I threw away the manual and can't find it online so it isn't clear exactly what that knob does within the fork.
    https://www.sram.com/sites/default/f...to_reba_sm.pdf

    One 2015 Bluto manual

  9. #9
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    if you let all the air out of the fork, can you compress it all the way? It could be overfilled with oil I've had this happen before where a fork is hyrdo-locked by too much fluid - after getting it back from a rebuild.

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    Good suggestions Jisch.

    I'd seen the service manual but was hoping that a user manual might contain additional info on damping/lockout. That service manual also depicts a gate valve which only applies to the Reba.

    The reason for the interest is that there can be a big difference between forks. For example my manitou circus can be run with the compression knob set to lockout without fear of damaging the fork. It has blow off valving. The same is not true for the fox floats I've owned. I destroyed the lockout on a float by forgetting to unlock before sending a medium sized drop.

  11. #11
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    Sounds like you're running too much air.

    Recommended psi's are just that--recommended.

    I weigh 15# more than you and I'm running 15psi less.

    IMO, you need to dump some air before anything else.

    Once the air spring feels right, then you can fiddle with air volume and damper adjustments.

  12. #12
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    I weigh 240 and have 160 lbs of air 3 turns out on rebound and 4 bottomless tokens installed....also have changed to 80mm with an air tube from a SID...I'm also thinking about changing from 5wt to 7.5 just to see what happens

  13. #13
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    I have only ridden my Fatboy with the Bluto around the yard, in my pump track and up and down a few curbs, hopefully I'll get it in the dirt tomorrow.

    At first I kept letting air out because I wasn't getting the travel or the response I was hoping for. I checked the rebound and it was all the way slow (doh!). Speeding it up improved things dramatically - as someone else mentioned, that knob does a lot and when its too slow it prevents the fork from moving through its travel.

  14. #14
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    A few rides on the bluto now... 115psi is working for me (160 pounds with gear). The o-ring shows I've been bottoming it but I haven't felt it behave like it was bottoming.

  15. #15
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    Be sure to play with the air tokens, if you are not getting full travel try removing a token. The more tokens you have in the air side of your fork the more the air spring ramps up through the travel.

    Also if you are really picky about your suspension, you can actually run the RCT3 damper in the Bluto over the stock damper. You will have to play around to find the right oil volumes though.
    Head Wheel Builder at Borealis Fat Bikes and Turnagain Components

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  16. #16
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    ^Wow- good to know about the RCT3 Damper- I LOVE my Pike. Amazing feel. I took out a token last night. FWIW, there were two installed on a 100mm Bluto. I'll try it out sometime later this week.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  17. #17
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    Is there a way to reduce the 120 Bluto to a 100?

  18. #18
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    It says in the manual you'll need 2 bottomless tokens and buy a new air shaft (part# 11.4018.026.015). Looks pretty straight forward.

  19. #19
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    ^^You could take your air shaft out, send it to me, and I'll send you my 100 shaft.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  20. #20
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    Did my first real ride on my fatboy with the Bluto tonight. On the continuum of incremental to revolution change, it's somewhere in the middle. It was great to charge through rock gardens without worry. Catching air was awesome. Overall I'm very happy, it will take a few more rides to get it dialed. The best part is it didn't mess with the feel if the bike at all, I really didn't notice the weight or anything weird with the geometry.

  21. #21
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    I'm 160 with gear too and I have it at 85psi but only on a few mild rides so far. I also feel like its sticky and not very plush out of the box.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCDKV View Post
    It says in the manual you'll need 2 bottomless tokens and buy a new air shaft (part# 11.4018.026.015). Looks pretty straight forward.
    Yup, very simple swap and it looks like you have someone willing to swap air shafts!
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  23. #23
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    So Chris an 80mm Bluto can be changed to 100mm with a new air shaft and tokens? I haven't received my Bluto yet but should be here this week, so I haven"t read the manual yet. Thanks!

  24. #24
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    I ride often at my local trail system, its five minutes from my house and I can get 10 miles of riding in when I don't have time to drive further.

    I run Strava, I have a few KOMs out there, mostly because of the number of times I have ridden everything, sometimes the stars align. There's a nice switchback climb out there that I have been gunning for - today with the Fatboy and the Bluto I got the KOM back.

    Its weird because I really didn't feel like I was going that hard. Is it all because of the Bluto? No way, but at a minimum it didn't hurt my time either. I rode it with my Niner a week ago gunning for the KOM, I felt like I rode way harder than today and I didn't get it.

    All this to say that the Bluto is a good addition to this bike, happy to have it (and all this could be because my phone/Strava glitched too).

  25. #25
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Forged1 View Post
    So Chris an 80mm Bluto can be changed to 100mm with a new air shaft and tokens? I haven't received my Bluto yet but should be here this week, so I haven"t read the manual yet. Thanks!
    The 80mm should come with all 4 tokens so to go from 80-100mm you should only need the longer air shaft and remove 2 tokens. You can download the manual and parts lists from Sram.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCDKV View Post
    The 80mm should come with all 4 tokens so to go from 80-100mm you should only need the longer air shaft and remove 2 tokens. You can download the manual and parts lists from Sram.
    Yep. It is a pretty simple change if you are comfortable taking a fork apart.
    Head Wheel Builder at Borealis Fat Bikes and Turnagain Components

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  27. #27
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    I have the air shafts that I took out of my 100s if anyone needs one.......just pay to ship

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    I have the air shafts that I took out of my 100s if anyone needs one.......just pay to ship
    I sent you a PM! Cheers!

  29. #29
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    Advice needed, I recentley installed the Bluto fork and after a couple of rides the fork has started loosing air pressure during the ride. It will go from 80 psi to 50 psi and feels very unresponsive. If I air it up it will hold pressure for a while into the ride but then it drops pressure at some point in the ride. Any clue as how to go about fixing this issue? Thanks for any help.

  30. #30
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    I think RS has been known for this problem (I think) Do a search but I remember someone recommended letting all the air out and cycling the fork a few times then pumping it up again. I could be completely wrong and pulling this out of my a$$ but it's worth a shot. Remember when you search that the Bluto is about the same as a Reba so what applies for one might apply to the other.

  31. #31
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    I pick up my fatboy with an 80mm bluto installed by the LBS, who will tune it for my riding style, however, this is hard in a parking lot. Based on the length of the Bluto 80mm, I suspect I should go for minimum sag and probably should have gone 100mm. Regardless, any input is appreciated before I pick it up.
    Thank you,
    FGO

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Father Guzzi Obrian View Post
    I pick up my fatboy with an 80mm bluto installed by the LBS, who will tune it for my riding style, however, this is hard in a parking lot. Based on the length of the Bluto 80mm, I suspect I should go for minimum sag and probably should have gone 100mm. Regardless, any input is appreciated before I pick it up.
    Thank you,
    FGO
    A 80mm with 25% sag is about the exact same a-c as the stock fork. That being said my frame is a 69.8 HT angle at 468mm a-c (which is a 80mm Bluto with 25% sag) and I am running a 100mm Bluto and I love it.

  33. #33
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    I am interested in getting one of these forks what did u use for hubs on these things.

  34. #34
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    Bikeman.com has Hope 150mm front hubs for bluto in stock right now for $111.99 free shipping! Universal cycles has the Hope and salsa specific hub in stock too.

  35. #35
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    How much is reasonable to get the rim laced

  36. #36
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    I know all the prices, but my LBS who has sold me my Camber and my Roubaix was willing to sharpen their pencil, buy all the bits, install them and then fit me when the install was done. It was a very fair price and they warranty this just like the bike. I really cant complain, I will be riding a fitted, warrantied Bluto for ~$900. Cheaper if I did it myself, but my LBS is two blocks from my house and have exemplary service.... No brainer for me.
    Cheers,
    FGO

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridehard84 View Post
    I am interested in getting one of these forks what did u use for hubs on these things.
    i have the i9 front hub with their adapter kit. my gf has the salsa 150mm hub which doesn't require an adapter but i wanted to keep things matchy so i just got the adapter.

    overall the fork is great. a definite game changer imo. could it feel better...? yeah, i think it could but being the first mass produced fat bike fork i'm pretty stoked on it. i've since sold my niner sir 9 and haven't touched my full susp bikes and now i want a dropper post...

  38. #38
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    I took my Fatboy/Bluto out on a 10 mile ride this morning. The ride was full of intense rock gardens and screaming downhills. I have been reluctant to bring my fat bike on rides like this in the past, the necessity to slow down bugs me - I like going fast. I just put my dropper post back on - so I had a bit of an issue with seat positioning.

    The Bluto definitely made the Fatboy a full bore machine. I found myself able to keep my fingers off the brakes and really crank through the rock gardens. I was leading the ride and had a fast guy with me. I won't say I dropped him (because I didn't), but I was able to keep him behind me without him riding my wheel.

    So I guess I'm changing my earlier statement that it's not a game changer (if I made such a statement), the Bluto is a game changer. It's turned my Fatboy from a fun bike to ride in limited situations, to one that is fun in a lot broader situations.

    Definitely worth the money. So glad to have one on my bike.

  39. #39
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    The best part is it didn't mess with the feel if the bike at all, I really didn't notice the weight or anything weird with the geometry.
    You have the 100mm bluto?

    My wallet curses at your positive bluto reviews.

  40. #40
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    Yes, 100mm, it's only money.

  41. #41
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    I just install a 120mm Bluto on my Fatboy and it is amazing! Glad I didnt go shorter. I need to find a token though, i think it would help. Ive tired a few different pressures and you can blow thru travel easy. I added a token to my Pike and it was a big help so Im hoping 1 or two in the Bluto will do the same.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I took my Fatboy/Bluto out on a 10 mile ride this morning. The ride was full of intense rock gardens and screaming downhills. I have been reluctant to bring my fat bike on rides like this in the past, the necessity to slow down bugs me - I like going fast. I just put my dropper post back on - so I had a bit of an issue with seat positioning.

    The Bluto definitely made the Fatboy a full bore machine. I found myself able to keep my fingers off the brakes and really crank through the rock gardens.

    Definitely worth the money. So glad to have one on my bike.
    My experience on my first big ride Friday is the same!!! roots, rocks, not quite as fast as my FS, but fast... and the fat tires changed the game with grip. and, it just a different kind of fun.

  43. #43
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    Did you check air pressure?

  44. #44
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    Picked up my fatboy with the 80mm bluto, my LBS first install. The manual just addresses install in 50 languages. It is springy, seems limited in both compression and rebound damping and no info provided on what the doodads do. Is their a tuning manual that addresses the Bluto specifically, my LBS did not have one, and I see I am only getting ~2 inches of travel, and it is overly springy. Any suggestions on setup are appreciated, I don't blame my LBS, this is their first install. Thanks for any input.
    Cheers,
    FGO

  45. #45
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    Red compression knob on the bottom of the fork controls how fast the fork rebounds, if its overly springy, turn the knob 3 or 4 clicks slower - there is a LOT of difference between full slow and full fast. If you're not getting full compression - then try letting a little air out, I'm running about 90PSI, I weigh about 170 with my gear on, I get full travel on big hits (though I don't feel the fork bottoming out).

    Those two things interact - so if your rebound is overly slow then you will not get full compression - I had that problem at first until I sped up the rebound.

  46. #46
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    Thanks, I am doing a tuning run tomorrow, I can already tell that with not tuning it is much more capable in the stuff I ride in.
    Thanks for the input, I will report back when I dial it in...

  47. #47
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Couple things to consider. Most fat bike where not designed with a suspension fork in mind. Therefore the head angle could be off and preventing the fork from actually using all the travel.

    I am going to go way back and talk about when suspension forks first came out and people where saying the same thing that you are saying now.

    I have a trek farley and when the designed the bike they designed it with a suspension fork in mind so for me the fork has worked perfect your of the box.

    In the old days we only had 65mm travel forks which worked but when they finally offered 80mm forks it changed the head angle enough to actually make the fork work.

    Ps I could be totally wrong here but some fat bikes just don't have the right head tube angle to allow the fork to work correctly.
    Marty
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  48. #48
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    Re: Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Way2ManyBikes View Post
    Couple things to consider. Most fat bike where not designed with a suspension fork in mind. Therefore the head angle could be off and preventing the fork from actually using all the travel.
    ....

    Ps I could be totally wrong here but some fat bikes just don't have the right head tube angle to allow the fork to work correctly.
    What is the "right" head tube angle then?

  49. #49
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Not sure but the Farley has a 70 degree angle and if you read about the bike they built the entire geometry around a suspension fork.

    I was told buy the guys at Trek that they just copied the Geometry off of one of there current 29'r and just widened the rear triangle to make the 3.8 fit and the 4.0 barely fits with a 2x10 drivetrain.

    The Farley has the shortest rear chain stays out of any of the fat bikes which make it support short in its overall length which works great in the tight twisty single track trails.

    With the bluto on my bike it has now become the only bike i ride.

    Today I was forced to take a line I would have never I repeat never considered or even saw as a line but because I was riding faster them I have ever ridden and came up on a jogger it was either hit him or swerve to the right and hope for the best. Which I did and the bluto performed like magic and I didn't even notice all of the tree roots, wash outs and drops going down the hill all I did was aim between the two trees and smile.

    Ps my buddy's 9 Zero 7 works incredible with the 100mm fork even thought specs say it should be an 80
    Marty
    14 Farley Black, Bluto,i9- WTB Scrappers 650B+, 3.5 Fat B Nimble
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  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I ride often at my local trail system, its five minutes from my house and I can get 10 miles of riding in when I don't have time to drive further.

    I run Strava, I have a few KOMs out there, mostly because of the number of times I have ridden everything, sometimes the stars align. There's a nice switchback climb out there that I have been gunning for - today with the Fatboy and the Bluto I got the KOM back.

    Its weird because I really didn't feel like I was going that hard. Is it all because of the Bluto? No way, but at a minimum it didn't hurt my time either. I rode it with my Niner a week ago gunning for the KOM, I felt like I rode way harder than today and I didn't get it.

    All this to say that the Bluto is a good addition to this bike, happy to have it (and all this could be because my phone/Strava glitched too).
    Switchback climbs/descents are notorious for false start/finish point readings on Strava. It's usually because different levels of the track come too close to each other.
    I see hills.

    I want to climb them.

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