I know this is a more limited group, but for any/ all Bluto adopters, where are you running your fork? I am having to drop my pressure way below recommended to get any good action out of the fork and get full travel. Even at 75psi, I get 15% sag and the fork feels super stiction-ey. Dropped it down to 65 to try later today. I'm 165- 170 all kitted up, so should be 100+ psi.
I'd say just check the air pression, which will fall because of the cold and go! We have a 100 and a 120 here and didn't touch anything than the psi and everything is very smooth. As for tire's pressure, it's the condition of the snow that is dictating it, not the Bluto.
Just a data point here. I picked up a Fatboy Expert that already ha a Bluto RL on it - 100mm. I was not convinced I was keeping it (Fat bike is the winter/snow steed only - seem sto usually ride between 10 and 30F) and was considering putting a carbon fork back on - until I converted the fork back to 80mm per Specialized geometry and installed the Turnagain cold weather seal kit (which I ordered in late December). Kit is awfully expensive for what it is - but have to say now the fork feels great all the time. Definitely not taking it off.
Not sure this is the right thread for it, but I was wondering if anyone could give me some info about the brake post mounts on the Bluto. What size rotor does the bluto take as standard (160 or 180)? I am wanting to run 203mm rotors and need to know what size to adapter to buy.
After reading through this thread I have become very confused on what part to purchase to convert my stock first gen Bluto to RCT3.... Post 81 gives a link to the damper (I think)
Couple questions: skimming through this thread, it appears the RCT3 is the preferred fork Has the RL been updated? Why does it cost more?
Second Question: Currently I'm running 15x142 thru axle. If I go with the Bluto I'd need to have the wheel re-dished. Are there any issues with doing this or would I be better off having the wheel rebuilt with a 15X150 hub. I'm think about picking up a leftover Beargrease 2 and setting it up as a summer trail bike with the Bluto.
I've noticed lately my Bluto seemed to be running a little stiff so I released air from positive and negative sides and pumped it back up. Seems better, but when I check sag, it's only moving a few mm's. I have a 100mm fork, running 3 tokens at 70 lbs pressure and weigh around 185. Any idea why the sag is so low? I'm wondering if my pressure gauge is way off. It seems most people my weight are running higher pressure. I ride some pretty rocky/rooty trails and steamroll stuff at speed and rarely bottom out. Damper problem maybe? Rebuild time?
I have the remote lockout version and the lockout seems to be working fine.
....... sag, it's only moving a few mm's. I have a 100mm fork, running 3 tokens at 70 lbs pressure and weigh around 185. Any idea why the sag is so low? I'm wondering if my pressure gauge is way off. It seems most people my weight are running higher pressure. I ride some pretty rocky/rooty trails and steamroll stuff at speed and rarely bottom out. Damper problem maybe? Rebuild time?
I have the remote lockout version and the lockout seems to be working fine.
I have the crown-lock out on a 100mm aftermarket Bluto. For the longest time I couldn't get the low speed knob to even rotate. Once freed up it doesn't seem to make a difference.
I weigh that dressed/geared up, no tokens, 70 psi, 15% sag and just used all 100mm for the first time. I'd never used more than 80mm with 1 token. 2 tokens were worse and all 3 were a joke. It'd ramp so much at the end of the stroke I'd never actually reach full travel with the low psi tires. Tires would squash up first. Just a thought that with many of the same variables eliminated we are experiencing different results with different tokens. They are easy to swap at home.
Older midrange components with a mediocre factory build have resulted in 12 pages of inconsistently poor results. Tough to know exactly what the problems are. Seems many can't even get it to perform as well as its 2.x tire counterpart.
I'm 190 and run (opps 90psi) psi and get full travel on a 120mm Bluto. Everyone says thats really low pressure, but it doesn't feel to bad and I use about 90% of the travel. I ride it pretty hard on a Mutz too.
I'm 190 and run 45-50 psi and get full travel on a 120mm Bluto. Everyone says thats really low pressure, but it doesn't feel to bad and I use about 90% of the travel. I ride it pretty hard on a Mutz too.
That's wierd you can't get it to bottom out with 2 tokens. I tun 4 tokens in mine with like 65psi. I weigh like 195ish with winter gear/lights. I consistently get full travel.
My only complaint is with the amount of stiction i have. I need to rebuild mine with some slick honey, i think. I've just got to get some fork oil.
Why are people using a heavier weighted 7.5 vs the stock recommended 5wt? I feel like colder weather should be using something like a 2.5wt
With Turnagain gone, does anyone have a source for cold weather orings? Or has RS improved their setup since launch? Just getting a bluto for the first time now...
If you let all the air out of the top, should the fork collapse and stay down? I just did it to mine and it will still pop back up after I push it all the way down. I'm assuming there's still air in the negative side indicating a leak.
There's still air in the top, even at 0 PSI, and it will compress when you push the fork down. Also, the lowers have air in, and while the seals around the stanchions aren't perfect, they'll hold air long enough to make the forks spring up again.
Do the Blutos even have a negative air chamber? (I didn't think so).
If the air pressure in the 'top' is holding fom week to week, then there isn't a leak.
I have a new bluto and I want to convert it to the RCT3 damper. I upgraded my older 2013 Reba a couple years ago and it made a big difference. However, I upgraded the rebound assembly also, to the shimmed version with dig valve. Do the new Blutos work the same way? Will I need a new rebound assembly and rct3 damper to take full advantage?
Also, is it using the A3 version for a 100mm bluto? Thanks guys.
Thanks for the info, but those are both coming up with 26 rebound(001) and the 27.5/29 rebound(002). Are they length dependent if I ever wanted to bump my travel? Also, do you know the correct PN for the 2015-2016 rct3 damper? Thanks man!
Oh I pasted the wrong one, I got the numbers stored for future use, but I'm on my phone so it's a pita to doublecheck them If it wasnt the second one it should be # 11.4015.544.270
My apologies if this is a duplicate post. I typed one and can't find it. Not sure if I failed to hit post or put it in the wrong thread.
I'm thinking about swapping to Slick Honey grease in a Bluto I just picked up. I ride in Minnesota and last year down to temps below 0F. I read through the documentation and it looks to me that I have to drop the lowers to clean out and change grease. And this requires a fluid change and a new crush washer for the rebound speed side. Can someone confirm if there is an easy and quick way to swap to Slick Honey?
Not a fluid change for the damper side. You do need new crush washers and crush washer retainers every time you pull the lowers. Watch this - it shows exactly what you need to do, tools needed, shock oil amounts, etc. (replacing the orings is optional). Its pretty easy, makes a big difference.
Does 11.4015.544.270 also fit a 120mm Bluto? I wonder because theres some other upgrade kit (which does not seem to be RCT3) mentioning 120mm forks specifically and the 11.4015.544.270 one mentions 80-100mm for at least SID forks ... it's unclear if this also applies to Bluto?
I'm using the 44270 damper on a 16' Bluto, along with a 110 air shaft. The new damper assembly was the same length as my original stock RL damper at 100mm, so I don't think it's length dependent.
I am 149 lbs ready to ride. Bike is an Ibis Trans-Fat. with 120mm Bluto Tire is Jumbo Jim. Terrain is sometimes rock gardens. Pressure in fork is 75 psi as indicated with my Fox pump - which seems to be the correct for preload.
What should I set the two rebound dials on given my weight?
Hey gang - I am looking to reduce my travel from 100 to 80mm. Are any extra parts needed for this? I know guys changing to/from 120 need another part but couldn't find anything about 100 to 80.
Hey gang - I am looking to reduce my travel from 100 to 80mm. Are any extra parts needed for this? I know guys changing to/from 120 need another part but couldn't find anything about 100 to 80.
Travel is determined by the air shaft. You need an 80mm air shaft.
ac
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