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Bluto Tuning Thread

187K views 699 replies 165 participants last post by  nstelemark 
#1 ·
I know this is a more limited group, but for any/ all Bluto adopters, where are you running your fork? I am having to drop my pressure way below recommended to get any good action out of the fork and get full travel. Even at 75psi, I get 15% sag and the fork feels super stiction-ey. Dropped it down to 65 to try later today. I'm 165- 170 all kitted up, so should be 100+ psi.
 
#399 ·
I debated on it for mine. I probably didn't HAVE to, but I wanted to make sure I assembled it exactly correctly, with new crush washers. I cracked into the included seal kit for the crush washers, and figured I'd go ahead and replace all the o-rings anyway, since I had put about 400mi on the fork already.
 
#401 ·
Okay guys, I have one more question and then I think I'm ready to rock. You've all been very helpful, and I'm very appreciative of all the info you guys have given me.

Reading the service manual and watching a few videos, I'm still a bit unclear on adding oil to the lowers after reassembling the fork. The RockShox manual says to angle the fitting of your syringe so that the fluid will only contact the inside of the lower legs. I'm assuming this basically means don't get fluid inside the air shaft or damper shaft correct? Basically turn the nozzle so that the oil goes into the fork leg but doesn't shoot or splash into either shaft, then push the lowers up until you can thread the bottom bolts in correct?

Thanks again so much guys. Bike gets here tomorrow so I'll be hitting the shop tomorrow night after work.
 
#402 ·
If you're talking about the 5 ml of oil then no. You should have the fork back together and ready to screw the bolts back into the very bottoms of each leg. Before you do that, put 5 mls of oil into the holes the bolts thread into. That's why you need to tip the fork past level so the oil won't come back out. Screw in the bolts and you're done. Make sure you get the rebound bolt on the correct side.
 
#411 ·
Paochow, thanks! That makes me feel much better, I'll leave it alone.

So basically I'm done with the rebuild side of it. I slick honey'd the air side and swapped the oil in the oil side. Everything went swimmingly other than knocking the oil over.

I pumped the fork up to 135 psi for my 200 lbs and even though I don't have it mounted on the bike yet, it feels incredibly stiff. I guess it is only supposed to sag 10-20% with my weight on it though which is about what I'm getting if I press on it (not on the bike yet, just clipped into the block that goes on the axle that the fork comes with).

When I tried to put the lowers on the first time, the air shaft was pulled up in the leg and I couldn't get it to come down until I unscrewed the cap on the top of the leg and pulled it down with the cap and tokens out of the leg. Normal?

Also, when I move the compression knob, there's 6 indents for the knob when you remove it, but with the knob on 5 of the settings feel solid and the 6th (last) one doesn't feel as solid as the rest.

Other than that it was a lot easier than I thought it'd be. I worry about scratching either of the shafts, but don't recall dinging either one with any tools.

Thanks for answering all my questions. You guys have been awesome.
 
#415 ·
Gotcha, thanks. I'm 200lbs with gear. I went to three tokens, 6 clicks from slow rebound and 115 psi before quickly unscrewing the pump. Was much better and I have about 1 cm of travel that hasn't been touched after my ride where I tried to jump anything I dared and down/up some valleys. I'll leave as is I think. When I get it serviced I'll talk to the LBS about changing fluids.
 
#416 ·
2 quick questions for you guys:

Please excuse the newbness here, but should my lock out actually 'lock' out? If I turn the knob all the way to locked, there is still some travel in the fork, and it definitely moves an inch or so if I bunny hop. It does feel stiffer than the other settings though. I was bunny just to get a feel for the fork (my yard is flat). I've heard you don't want to ride too much of the rough stuff locked out because it can damage the seals in the fork, I'm assuming a couple of bunny hops are okay though?

Also, is the fork supposed to be silent when traveling or is it normal to hear it kind of 'whoosh' as it travels? (not loud, but definitely there).

Thanks!
 
#417 ·
2 quick questions for you guys:

Please excuse the newbness here, but should my lock out actually 'lock' out? If I turn the knob all the way to locked, there is still some travel in the fork, and it definitely moves an inch or so if I bunny hop. It does feel stiffer than the other settings though.

Also, is the fork supposed to be silent when traveling or is it normal to hear it kind of 'whoosh' as it travels? (not loud, but definitely there).

Thanks!
THe lockout is not a true lockout and you will get movement. As far as noise mine is pretty quiet.
 
#418 ·
Okay. Wish I could explain the noise better as it really isn't that loud.

And bunny hopping with the lockout on isn't going to like, blow a seal or anything right?

Edit: Just went out and checked and the fork is silent if I just hold the brakes and push on it. If I bunny hop it, there's a little noise as it rebounds when I pull up on the bars but that's all. Hard to explain though.

Sorry for the newbness.
 
#420 ·
Anyone with the 100mm running more than two tokens who weighs 150-160 pounds geared up? I just ordered a factory rct3 100mm bluto and wondering if I should order some tokens. Maybe the two stock tokens and the rct3 damper will suffice. I ride hard, fast, and will boost off any root, rock, bump, or drop the trail offers. I've always had to tune my other shocks and forks in the past specifically for very progressive ramp up to suit my needs. How much fine tuning does the rct3 have?... 3 positions plus ability to adjust threshold in each? Thanks.
 
#421 ·
I'm about 170 running 3 and it sounds like I ride about the same as you and I might be taking one out. Even on the biggest hits I'm not getting full full travel but I also run a fairly firm air pressure. If I were you I would just try it first. Maybe RS will smarten up and send and extra one or two like they do with the Pikes.
 
#425 ·
Curious if anyone is running the 100mm fork with just one token?

I way 200 lbs and have my air set a little lower than what the chart recommends at about 120 psi. Still have about 3/4" or so of travel that is unused at the end of my rides.

BTW, I'm really enjoying having a suspension fork. Pretty amazing.
 
#426 ·
Curious if anyone is running the 100mm fork with just one token?

I way 200 lbs and have my air set a little lower than what the chart recommends at about 120 psi. Still have about 3/4" or so of travel that is unused at the end of my rides.

BTW, I'm really enjoying having a suspension fork. Pretty amazing.
I run mine with three tokens and about 95 psi. Use all my travel and never felt a harsh bottom out.
 
#427 ·
My brand new Bluto fork was rebuilt at the end of April using Slick Honey, but I'm still getting stiction this long after. I thought it would break in or something. It has seen only a little hard riding, but it has seen lots of mud and water. Thoughts?

I have a 2008 RS Recon on another bike. I think the oil might be just a little low as there is no resistance in the first 3-5mm of travel. Despite being undamped in that first fraction of travel, it seems to result in improved small bump absorption, which is noticeable on high-speed chatter. Does anyone do this on purpose? Leave the damping oil a little short? (at least that's what I think is going on in the Recon). It might be cool to try in the Bluto.

-F
 
#430 ·
Which Bluto?

I'm about ready to swap the stock rigid fork out of my 2015 Farley 6 for a Bluto but undecided which one. I can get either the RL that seems to come with most suspension fatties or the RCT3 version. The RCT3 is about £100 more.

Is the performance of the RCT3 that much better, or would the RL suit. I'm not a particularly aggressive rider and am about 135lbs in weight.

Also would fitting a 120mm affect the geo much, I think the Farley 6 is corrected for a 100mm fork.

As a comparison I run a 160mm Pike RCT3 on my regular bike

Thanks for any input
 
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