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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Parts# 11.4018.025.001 and 11.4018.025.002 are what you need.
    Thanks for the info, but those are both coming up with 26 rebound(001) and the 27.5/29 rebound(002). Are they length dependent if I ever wanted to bump my travel? Also, do you know the correct PN for the 2015-2016 rct3 damper? Thanks man!

  2. #602
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    Oh I pasted the wrong one, I got the numbers stored for future use, but I'm on my phone so it's a pita to doublecheck them If it wasnt the second one it should be # 11.4015.544.270

  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Oh I pasted the wrong one, I got the numbers stored for future use, but I'm on my phone so it's a pita to doublecheck them If it wasnt the second one it should be # 11.4015.544.270
    Awesome! So should we be using the 27.5/29" rebound, or the 26" rebound? I assume 27.5/29 since it's longer? Thanks man, really appreciate it!

  4. #604
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    My apologies if this is a duplicate post. I typed one and can't find it. Not sure if I failed to hit post or put it in the wrong thread.


    I'm thinking about swapping to Slick Honey grease in a Bluto I just picked up. I ride in Minnesota and last year down to temps below 0F. I read through the documentation and it looks to me that I have to drop the lowers to clean out and change grease. And this requires a fluid change and a new crush washer for the rebound speed side. Can someone confirm if there is an easy and quick way to swap to Slick Honey?

  5. #605
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    Not a fluid change for the damper side. You do need new crush washers and crush washer retainers every time you pull the lowers. Watch this - it shows exactly what you need to do, tools needed, shock oil amounts, etc. (replacing the orings is optional). Its pretty easy, makes a big difference.
    I would advise not taking my advice.

  6. #606
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    Does 11.4015.544.270 also fit a 120mm Bluto? I wonder because theres some other upgrade kit (which does not seem to be RCT3) mentioning 120mm forks specifically and the 11.4015.544.270 one mentions 80-100mm for at least SID forks ... it's unclear if this also applies to Bluto?

  7. #607
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    I'm using the 44270 damper on a 16' Bluto, along with a 110 air shaft. The new damper assembly was the same length as my original stock RL damper at 100mm, so I don't think it's length dependent.

  8. #608
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    I am 149 lbs ready to ride. Bike is an Ibis Trans-Fat. with 120mm Bluto Tire is Jumbo Jim. Terrain is sometimes rock gardens. Pressure in fork is 75 psi as indicated with my Fox pump - which seems to be the correct for preload.

    What should I set the two rebound dials on given my weight?

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsilvers View Post
    I am 149 lbs ready to ride. Bike is an Ibis Trans-Fat. with 120mm Bluto Tire is Jumbo Jim. Terrain is sometimes rock gardens. Pressure in fork is 75 psi as indicated with my Fox pump - which seems to be the correct for preload.

    What should I set the two rebound dials on given my weight?
    There's only 1 rebound dial.....at the bottom of the fork. Ride the bike and set it to where YOU like.

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Ride the bike and set it to where YOU like.
    This Fox suspension designer says there are 20 clicks on forks not for personal choice but because of the wide variation in rider weights. He said out of the 20, there are only three clicks that you can select from based on your riding style and preferences:

    http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-Rebound-Damping-2013.html

    So I really what to know which three clicks are for me to choose from. I have it at click #9 (with 0 being slowest and most damping).


    I lowered my pressure down to 65 psi and was not able to make it bottom out.

  11. #611
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Hey gang - I am looking to reduce my travel from 100 to 80mm. Are any extra parts needed for this? I know guys changing to/from 120 need another part but couldn't find anything about 100 to 80.


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  12. #612
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    What is the benefit of reducing travel by 20mm? Can't you get the same effect by turning up the compression damping one click?

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish29er View Post
    Hey gang - I am looking to reduce my travel from 100 to 80mm. Are any extra parts needed for this? I know guys changing to/from 120 need another part but couldn't find anything about 100 to 80.


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    Travel is determined by the air shaft. You need an 80mm air shaft.

    ac

  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish29er View Post
    Hey gang - I am looking to reduce my travel from 100 to 80mm. Are any extra parts needed for this? I know guys changing to/from 120 need another part but couldn't find anything about 100 to 80.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If I recall correctly, you've posted in the past about owning a Wren fatbike suspension fork. Did you get rid of it? Did you encounter problems that caused you to choose a Bluto for this bike?

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    If I recall correctly, you've posted in the past about owning a Wren fatbike suspension fork. Did you get rid of it? Did you encounter problems that caused you to choose a Bluto for this bike?
    Nope wasn't me.


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  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Travel is determined by the air shaft. You need an 80mm air shaft.

    ac
    Cool thanks for confirming


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  17. #617
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    hi,

    I have a bluto on my mukluk, i was wanting to do a service on it, but was looking for advice on any upgrades to do while in. I see people talking about differant dampers and tokens? I am 215-220 without gear, fairly agressive rider, don't really jump though. ride lots of logs and rocky areas.

  18. #618
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    I have one token fitted in my Bluto's.

    Weigh 180lbs , found that one token stopped the fork from bottoming out too much whilst still getting all the travel.

  19. #619
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    I feel tokens are a must for the Bluto, without them it bottoms out way to easily and harshly. I have not yet brought myself to put some on my bluto but its something I will need to do at some point.

    Cheers

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gambit21 View Post
    This thread says a lot about the benefits of a rigid fork.
    Until you have pedal some distance on a frozen, post holed trail.

  21. #621
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    Has anyone converted your bluto into a dual air setup? I had a 2012 dual air reba laying around and fit the dual air spring. I always liked the dual air and I have to say,that the fork feels much better.

    One thing I always disliked about the reba and the bluto is that it seems to develop stiction at about 10hrs. Not terrible but not butter smooth like when it is freshly lubed lower. I use slick honey and keep the stanctions clean. Anyone else notice this?

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by ntm1973 View Post
    .....
    One thing I always disliked about the reba and the bluto is that it seems to develop stiction at about 10hrs. Not terrible but not butter smooth like when it is freshly lubed lower. I use slick honey and keep the stanctions clean. Anyone else notice this?
    I have noticed this when the fork is due for a lowers maintnance. More than likely your foam rings are dry and/or dirty. When the rings are impregnated with oil, there is always a smooth coating on the stanchions and no stiction that I can tell.

  23. #623
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    there was a bluto thread about air pressure a while back .just wanted to add that i checked mine today and it's still the same as it was a month ago and the month before that. great forks imo.

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish29er View Post
    Cool thanks for confirming
    Lemme know if you need a 80mm shaft - I have one unridden that I took out to go to 100mm...

    g

  25. #625
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    ..Hi all, looking for info on bottomless tokens (just picked up a kit).

    My Bluto had 2 tokens in place stock, Motobecane Ti Night Train, so I added 1 more for 3 total. I was able to drop the PSI about 20 lbs just playing around in the driveway. I'll have to see what it feels like on the trails soon.

    How many tokens can I add total?

    Thanks!...
    ..sleep is good...

  26. #626
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    Check out this chart.
    Attachment 980158

  27. #627
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    Now that MRP has a ramp cartridge for 32mm RS, will probably try that out...

  28. #628
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    Check out this chart.
    Attachment 980158

    THANKS!

    So my 100 mm Bluto will need a new air cartridge to be 120? OR just remove the 1st 2 tokens that came w/ the Bluto?

    Coming from a long lineage of Lefty's so need to read up on these forks...
    ..sleep is good...

  29. #629
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    Air shafts determine the travel. You have to change the 100mm air shaft for a 120mm.

    Tokens determine the ramp-up rate of the air spring. If you're at correct sag and bottoming out then you add a token. It's personal prefrence. I tend to run more sag and more tokens because i like the small bump sensitivity but do bottom out the fork pretty frequently.

  30. #630
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    OK, so I have some questions. I just rebuilt my Bluto rct3, and I am having more stiction now, than I had before I rebuilt it. I used slick honey lube where noted in SRAM manual, I used RS specified fluid and amounts. I didn't lube the lower leg seal as there was already some grease there, and the manual said not to if it was present.

    The only thing that I can think of is my foam rings seemed to be a little damaged when I removed the lowers (the red travel ring fell off and I didn't notice until it was back together). There was a little bit of debris in the lower, so I removed it and checked the foam to make sure there were not loose pieces, then reassembled.

    Does anybody have any recommendations on what to check for next?

  31. #631
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    Did you soak the foam rings in oil?

  32. #632
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    Yes, the rings were soaked in oil prior to installation.

  33. #633
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    looking for setup advice.

    farley 7, i'm installing an RCT3 100 MM.

    I weigh about 210 in my birthday suit.

    From the chart, it comes with 2 tokens.

    Should i be adding a 3rd and/or 4th token? Air pressure recommendations?

    I don't do any jumping.

    Thanks
    Mike
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    2017 Trek Farley 9.6 with Lauf
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    2016 Scott Solace 10 Disc

  34. #634
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    I like 2 tokens in mine, I'm the same weight. Pressure is at about 100 if I remember right. I have sag set to 25%.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountsports.net

  35. #635
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    ..been running 3 tokens at 95-100 psi w/ very good benefit; previously 2 token and 160s.. i'm 180-185# w/ my pack.

    riding in all manner of snow, ice, slush, dirt, mud and enjoying the softer set-up 2/ the 3 tokens and the bluto eating up the smaller stuff w/ some bottom-out prevention still.

    Great info here, thanks everyone!
    Micah
    ..sleep is good...

  36. #636
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    Just installed an RCT3 100mm, is the PSI chart accurate? Mine is set at 125psi and felt fine without setting sag on a short ride last night.

  37. #637
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    200lbs, 100mm Bluto and I run 115 psi with 4 tokens. The Bluto is way too linear and needs the tokens to get reasonable sag without bottoming out.

  38. #638
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    I have a 2016 Bluto RL with the oneloc remote/damper, I'd like to get rid of the remote and put a RCT3 damper in
    Part number 11.4015.544.270?

    Have read a few posts suggesting that the rebound damper needs changing to because of the dig valve.
    Looking at the spare parts catalog it only lists one rebound damper for the bluto (part no 11.4018.025.011), along with the 4 different compression dampers.

    Am I right in saying I only need to swap the compression damper?

  39. #639
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    It is my understanding from what i read in another thread that the rebound damper has been updated in the Pike but have NOT confirmed the new Bluto RCT3 rcvd it as well.

    My question is if i buy a new RCT3 Bluto will that include the latest RCT3 "Charger" damper and the updated rebound damper also?

    If so, what year or serial#?

    In other words when did the bluto get the latest Charger damper and new rebound damper?

  40. #640
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    There is a "Rapid Recovery" decal on the fork leg of my RCT3 Blutos (down by the rebound damper adjuster) which I *think* refers to the upgraded "dig valve" rebound damper (happy to be corrected).

    I believe you can replace the RC compression damper with RCT3 without it being mandatory to also change the rebound damper.

    FWIW, I tend to leave the compression damper on mine in the fully open setting, anyway, which makes the RCT3 somewhat pointless

  41. #641
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    Does anyone happen to know if the 100 mm 27.5/29 Reba air shaft is compatible for converting the Bluto to 100mm?

  42. #642
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    Hi all, I recently bought an RCT3 bluto on ebay. Seller had upgraded from 100mm to 120mm travel, great. It seemed to be working well but I quickly noticed that it bottomed out hard about half way through the travel, even with all air removed. Many threads I read seemed to suggest this was a hydrolock problem caused by oil in the upper damper migrating to the lowers. I expected to find excessive oil in the lower damper, but did not. With the lowers removed I could not push the damper tube upwards very far- leading me to believe the problem was caused by an over filled upper damper. I put 5wt maxima green fork oil at the correct level (75mm from oil to top of threads, tad less than 106cc iirc), maxima 15wt in the lowers, and re-greased everything with Super Slick and all is fine now. I did not replace any seals or o-rings, just the crush washers that attach the lowers. I got a 50 pack of the poly washers and metal washers for about $10 a piece shipped.

    This thread with all it's information was very helpful, so I thought I would add to the discussion. Thanks!

  43. #643
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    Well I need some help from you guys. I just installed a 80mm Bluto. On my 2nd ride it will now only return to the 30% mark. How do I fix this? I read about bleeding the air out of the lower. But I have no clue how to do this and I cant find a video online. This is my first suspension bike.

    Thanks,

    Keith

  44. #644
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    Well I figured out how to bleed the air. I got that fixed waiting to see if it happends again

    But I noticed I was bottoming out to often. So I bought some Tokens. I pulled off the cap to install 1-2 and seen it already has 4 from the factory on my 80mm RCT3. Is that normal? How many more can I add?

  45. #645
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    Check this post http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/bluto-tuning-thread-921527-post13013644.html

    If l was you, ld go back and read the last ~120 posts in this thread, it answers your questions.
    always mad and usually drunk......

  46. #646
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    4 tokens max as per Sram/RS manual.

    Could be low on oil in damper hence no or little damping.
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  47. #647
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    Anyone know if the current RS bluto service kits have newer (better) o-rings?

    Or is it best just to get some at my hardware store?
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  48. #648
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    Hello
    building up a new bike with a Bluto
    first real suspension fork I've had in general as well.
    So questions...

    I have the air pressure set so sag is about 20-25%
    and this seems fine for riding in general, no pedal bobbing, feels fine dropping off curb heights

    but there's one situation where the fork bottoms out consistently - If I do a front brake endo on pavement; rear wheel up in the air, temporarially balanced on the front wheel.
    Fork will completely compress then.

    Is that a Normal Expectation for a fork?
    Or should I be tuning to prevent that behaviour? -adding tokens and/or more air pressure

    Thanks

  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by xenologer View Post
    Hello
    building up a new bike with a Bluto
    first real suspension fork I've had in general as well.
    So questions...

    I have the air pressure set so sag is about 20-25%
    and this seems fine for riding in general, no pedal bobbing, feels fine dropping off curb heights

    but there's one situation where the fork bottoms out consistently - If I do a front brake endo on pavement; rear wheel up in the air, temporarially balanced on the front wheel.
    Fork will completely compress then.

    Is that a Normal Expectation for a fork?
    Or should I be tuning to prevent that behaviour? -adding tokens and/or more air pressure

    Thanks
    To be honest I dont know,
    but I have my Bluto sag at 15%, and it doesnt bottom out when I do stoppies, compresses about 60 - 70%.
    Theres a few variables though. type of Bluto, Bluto settings, weight etc
    always mad and usually drunk......

  50. #650
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    Hy guys,
    I have read, there is a new compression kit available for the RS Bluto!
    RockShox Charger 2 RLC Dämpfer Upgrade Kit für SID 27,5/29 Zoll (2012-2016), Reba 27,5/29 Zoll (2012-2017), Bluto - 00.4018.783.003
    Has anyone tested this compression kit?

    Thanks

  51. #651
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    This damper upgrade totally transforms the bluto. It feels much closer to a pike. I think with this damper the only thing that could be complained about is its flex but me weighing in at 170 fully geared it is not an issue for me.

  52. #652
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    The charger 2 RLC is far better than the RCT3 damper i presume?

    For 250$ what is the real world difference, please.
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  53. #653
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    I can't speak to the difference between the charger and rtc3 as I upgraded from an rl damper. There is way more small bump compliance as well as support through the whole stroke. Also you can adjust the lsc. Less stiction as well.

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    The charger 2 RLC is far better than the RCT3 damper i presume?

    For 250$ what is the real world difference, please.
    You'd be crazy to drop $250 on a fork that's only worth $350-400.

    You can put lipstick on a pig, but it won't make the bacon taste better.

    Sorry, I know there are an arse ton of Blutos owners, so lots of opportunity for arse hurt, but I tell it like I see it.

    I've had four Blutos, three Wren, and two Mastodon. I still have have one used Bluto RC3 in a box (for sale!) and two Mastodon (STD and EXT).

    The Mastodon actually ride better than a Pike and there is no flex or stiction to speak of.

    Save for a Mastodon.

  55. #655
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    Bluto; where to begin?
    Specifically the RCT3 at 100mm purchased separately (not OEM) in 2015, ridden 1,000miles +/-. Weigh 170lbs. Performed fair at best, 'twas easier to arm chair criticize while carrying on with life.

    Backstory:
    Tried to adjust the air pressure/tokens. Settle on 70psi and no tokens. Odd, but seems to afford me 90% of travel on most rides. After a few months fiddled with the rebound. Attempted to adjust the low speed compression. The knob was stuck. Give up and keep riding weeks. Try again. Give up and keep riding. Which way to turn LSC, is it at either limit or in the middle, I don't know because it was stuck out of the box. Decide to go all in, pray to higher power and twist the sh1t out the the little knob. Finally break the knob free and play with that. Not amazed with it and stiction is seemingly quite high. Uppers are bone dry.

    Shockwiz crosses my mind but figure it needs service prior to even attempting to obtain logical suggestions. Buy parts. Get busy with life. 2 weeks ago it loses air pressure in the parking lot pre-ride and has severe brake dive. Pump it up and it's gone again after a few cycles. AKA time for service.

    Tearing it down, the foam rings are dry with no hint of oily residue and the wipers have little to no grease tucked away. Decent amount of red grease on the air side bits. Oil level was 70mm as measured after the compression damper was removed. (read: damper dripping wet so there was probably even more volume in there originally) Swap in new bits and re-assemble. 108mL=strong 70mm, next time I'll try 105mL, maybe less.

    Get it back on the bike and air up to 70psi. Feels soft just bouncing in the workshop. Maybe this service was most excellent? Front yard ride reveals that I now need 90 psi to get 20% sag and keep from bottoming when rolling off the curb. MotherF'er! Going to have to go back through tuning this to find a baseline. Will it be repeatable next service? Who knows.

    /vent

  56. #656
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    Any real life experience with this Ramp Control Cartridge — MRP ?

  57. #657
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by DiRt DeViL View Post
    Any real life experience with this Ramp Control Cartridge — MRP ?
    I just put one in my bluto but have yet to use it. I took it out of my sid. It made a huge difference in the Sid. I also have them in my fox 32 and 34. They are really good.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  58. #658
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    I used to feel your pain, I worked my way through all the Bluto alternatives but to no avail, then I bought a Mastodon, what a revelation! Now I have two

    It's not a question of servicing the Bluto, the fork is what it is. When you want more than a Bluto can deliver, you need to upgrade, it's just that simple.

    [QUOTE=bme107;13355786]Bluto; where to begin?
    Specifically the RCT3 at 100mm purchased separately (not OEM) in 2015, ridden 1,000miles +/

  59. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I used to feel your pain, I worked my way through all the Bluto alternatives but to no avail, then I bought a Mastodon, what a revelation! Now I have two

    It's not a question of servicing the Bluto, the fork is what it is. When you want more than a Bluto can deliver, you need to upgrade, it's just that simple.
    Unfortunately I haven't found the limits of what it can deliver. Something's up that it keeps changing. Calling it a lemon is not appropriate, though something was FUBAR out of the box.

    I thought I knew what it was, then the LSC freed up. Figured it out again. Then 2 weeks ago in my mind: service, and last ditch effort to tune with SW because maybe I just don't know WTF I'm doing. Last night -> back to square one. Maybe it will work out. Who knows? I've got a whole "new" fork to try out.

  60. #660
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    I had a Bluto that blew a damper after a week of use, others had stiction issues on and off, quirky damping when cold, but loss of air pressure was never an issue. I did need to use more air pressure and adjust the damper for cold weather use.

    When I have brakes that change without reason, it's generally air in the system or it's a SRAM brake

    I'd say the damper has some pollutants or malfunction that causes it to fluctuate, plugging the passages so it's not controlling fork movement.

    Air pressure should be constant as long as volume or rider weight are constant.

    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    Unfortunately I haven't found the limits of what it can deliver. Something's up that it keeps changing. Calling it a lemon is not appropriate, though something was FUBAR out of the box.

    I thought I knew what it was, then the LSC freed up. Figured it out again. Then 2 weeks ago in my mind: service, and last ditch effort to tune with SW because maybe I just don't know WTF I'm doing. Last night -> back to square one. Maybe it will work out. Who knows? I've got a whole "new" fork to try out.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I'd say the damper has some pollutants or malfunction that causes it to fluctuate, plugging the passages so it's not controlling fork movement.

    Air pressure should be constant as long as volume or rider weight are constant.
    It might, not sure. Pouring out the oil nothing was oddly out of color, cloudy or chunky. Suspect oil level was a bit high from the factory. As this was my first ever fork service (which I performed) I did not play around with the damper mechanism when it was in hand. Maybe I should have.

    The air thing is why it is so strange to me. What else did I touch in there to "free" things up? No extra parts left on the bench and I replaced each bit one at a time with new seconds after removing the old. Only thing I can think of is that the stiction was so high that 70psi sufficed before whereas now I need 90 for the same support.

  62. #662
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    .....
    Last edited by Kirkerik; 10-09-2017 at 05:50 PM.
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  63. #663
    Trail Bomber
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    I bought mine with a messed up rebound shaft used. Just installed a 120mm air spring, rebuilt the damper side and did a service. Rockshox 5wt in the damper, fox 20wt in the lowers, and 4 volume tokens. Just the basic RL damper. I normally run 62psi in my Lyrik 160mm with 2 tokens. I think 4 tokens and 90psi will get my 180lbs down the trail. Will report back. If it sucks... May buy a Manatou Mastedon

  64. #664
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    Seems like it's common for Blutos, that people are running much lower pressure than what the "Rockshox Solo Air Guide Chart" (printed on the fork lower) usually recommends.

    What's up with that? they mess up their own guide?

    I weigh 180 and had to put the forks at 80 psi (far lower than suggested) to get the sag right, then 3 tokens to keep from bottoming out.

  65. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by xenologer View Post
    Seems like it's common for Blutos, that people are running much lower pressure than what the "Rockshox Solo Air Guide Chart" (printed on the fork lower) usually recommends.
    Not unique to Blutos, in my experience. Pretty common with Rockshox forks in general.
    "The only way we can truly control the outcome of a ride is not going on it, which is a choice I'm unwilling to make." -K.B.

  66. #666
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    Anyone have any spare black tokens?

    I could use two I guess.
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  67. #667
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    Hey...

    Should I be worried about my Bluto Creaking? Does this during hard front braking, then some more creaking shortly afterwards as the weight comes back off the fork.

    I've heard lots of reports of rockshox crown/uppers interface creaking.
    But I've concluded from careful listening while flexing the fork by hand; that this is not the issue.

    my creaking sound comes from inside the left leg lowers.
    when flexed forward/back -not from vertical compression/extension of the fork.

    never taken this fork apart for service, since its only about 2 months old...
    any thoughts on what I should worry about/ what to do?
    Thanks

  68. #668
    Big M, Little organ.
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    FAST damper for bluto

    After a season of being disappointed with the bluto (and the damper finally failing entirely), I installed the FAST compression damper. The RCT3 was mediocre in every way when it worked. $300 for a charger 2 is way too much and IMO not all that much benefit. I want basic, reliable, predictable performance. Id probably be better off with a mastodon but I really like the Fast charger kit Ive installed on a lyrik so I thought I'd give it a shot. The FAST kit is $150 USD, so still not cheap.

    It is far more predictable than the RCT3 and the adjustments are usable. Install takes all of 5 minutes to remove the old and put the new damper in. Tuning low speed is a knob and high speed is done by adjusting shims. I have so far removed one shim in the high speed stack to soften it. I may remove or replace one more. Removing the damper and adjusting shims is again a 5 minute job.

    It is definitely an improvement but ultimately the blutos stiffness is a limiting factor (for me anyway). If you are OK with the bluto chassis but hate the damping, the fast damper could be the trick.

  69. #669
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    I have recently bought a fatbike(a Salted rock candy,dual suspension 110 rear travel)and have a 120mm bluto up front.Ive played around abit with air pressure(i weigh about 220 kitted up)and find that the fork feels "shaky" as in like if the headset was loose.It isnt,bike shop checked out the headset.But there seems to be a few mm of play at the very top of the fork,like it will move just the slightest bit,and quite noticable when lifting the front wheel quickly.Doesnt feel to bad when actually rolling fast down a trail and handles jumps and drops allright(did a 3ft to flat on concrete today to see how it was,felt fine,quite plush and didnt bottom out.Will this improve as the fork gets "worn in"abit.Ive probably ridden about 80-100kms on it thus far,and put slick honey on the stanchions twice.Could i put a revelation damper into it?Cheers guys

  70. #670
    Big M, Little organ.
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    If you are asking about the FAST damper, yes. The factory RCT3 always felt like it had a slight bit of play before the damper kicked in. That went away with the FAST. That was the first thing I noticed, it felt more "solid". The bluto is still a bit flexy and I'm 190 geared up and only have the 100mm.

    The upgrades Im aware of are the charger 2 from a SID, the FAST, and an avalanche damper. FAST only replaces the compression circuit but is cheapest.

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