Page 4 of 13 FirstFirst 12345678 ... LastLast
Results 151 to 200 of 635
  1. #151
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7,814
    Oh and SlowerThenSnot you where spot on with getting rid of that red grease crap and using slick honey, so much smoother now!!

  2. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    45
    Where do you apply the Slick Honey? I assume to just the piston on the air shaft but I'm not sure. Thanks.

  3. #153
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7,814
    Quote Originally Posted by Coneheadthebarbituit View Post
    Where do you apply the Slick Honey? I assume to just the piston on the air shaft but I'm not sure. Thanks.
    I lubed up the whole air shaft, the piston, and just a little on top of the piston for good measures

  4. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    12
    Ok boys - I put the XX hydro lockout damper on - loving it! Feels a bit better

    Is there an upgraded rebound damper available as well?

    Would I just order the 2014 SID rebound damper or will that be the same part? 26" or the 27/29"?

  5. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lu-Max's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    86
    I contacted my LBS about doing this mod to my Bluto, parts & labor quote is $225.

    I am considering DIY, but I have never taken a fork apart, ever. So I'm more than a bit apprehensive about screwing it up. Fair price or do you think I should give it a shot?

    Any special tools required?

  6. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    145
    Lu-Max, Exactly what mods were quoted at your LBS. This thread has mentioned several. Thank you

  7. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    416
    Not sure why you guys are running such low pressure

    I'm 120mm with 1 token - 175lbs - running 110psi with 15% sag and using 90% of my travel on a single track ride with no jumps

    I also have an XX remote lockout on it which may help as the cartridge is different even in open mode - I checked my oil levels and they were to spec

    I set my air pressure to 80psi at the start since I read here people were having issues - and I could bottom it out in my driveway - this fork is using the same air pressure as my SID WC

    After some slick honey on the seals - this fork is buttery smooth - smoother than my SID

  8. #158
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7,814
    Quote Originally Posted by broadwayline View Post
    Not sure why you guys are running such low pressure

    I'm 120mm with 1 token - 175lbs - running 110psi with 15% sag and using 90% of my travel on a single track ride with no jumps
    About the same as I was running (120 psi @ 185# and 10% sag) I would use all my travel on jumps but the small bump compliance sucked poo so I tried lowering it as well and it didn't work for me either. Since the new compression, rebound damper, and the slick honey same psi but the sag went to 20%, still no real trail time but initial tests are good.

  9. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    525
    Oh now I am confused on what to get - the XX remote lockout damper or the RCT3? I have the RCT3 damper already in my Amazon cart but now I am thinking XX???

    I am 240# and want to add a couple tokens to my 120mm Bluto also.

  10. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3,195
    I'm not a big remote lockout fan. I like having the ability to add a few clicks of damping over full open or full lock. I'm on the stock RL and I'll lock it out on the pavement, run it in the middle for rolling terrain and go full open on the rougher stuff.
    14 Aurum, 15 P.3, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  11. #161
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    416
    Swapping to 7.5wt oil tonight in my 120mm with RCT3 compression damper - will report back how much it helps

  12. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fat907's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    102
    When I first did the swap I put 20cc less oil but have since went back to stock height while using the 7.5........... I really like the change

  13. #163
    mtbr member
    Reputation: funnyjr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    571

    Bluto Tuning Thread

    -5 degrees celcius and can feel my SID rct 3 stiffening up both slow compression/ rebound. I put my money on Bluto not working when temps dip below -30 without fluid mods

  14. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    416
    7.5wt made a huge difference for me - had to add 1 click of rebound to account for it but its smooth as butter in -1*C

    Small bump compliance improved a lot

  15. #165
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fat907's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    102
    It was the best change I made........better than RCT3 even .....now play with the amount of tokens

  16. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    45
    Perhaps these forks valving work totally different than snowmobile shocks (which I am very familiar with as far as tuning) but normally in a snowmobile shock a change to the weight of the oil only has a noticeable feel difference to the rebound as shock speeds are much less during the rebound stroke. Is this the type of change you noticed Fat907? Also, I read somewhere that Salsa doesn't advise changing from the 100mm to the 120mm. Why would this be? I'm new to all this bike suspension stuff. Thanks.

  17. #167
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7,814
    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    It was the best change I made........better than RCT3 even .....now play with the amount of tokens
    Did you ever get the lockout to work?

  18. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fat907's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    102
    Lockout works....but not a true lockout,it still moves about 4 or 5mm...it got noticeably smoother with the 7.5, it goes thru the travel more easily..but that could be from the slick honey....I did both mods at the same time.....RCT3 was the first mod other than changing to the 80mm SID air shaft...rebound is quicker but not boingy ...I'm 3 clicks out and 4 tokens.......230lbs

  19. #169
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    525
    I am going to hold off on ordering the RCT3 damper - the bike budget is pretty well toasted until next year if I don't want to end up a 40something single. ;-)

    I did order a set of bottomless tokens. I got to ride my Bluto tonight and I didn't have any problems with it. Granted the biggest bump I hit was off a curb (riding in parking lot at work - my Sturgis Bullet came today!).

  20. #170
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,577
    Just did the air shaft last night, moving mine from 100 to 120. I did the RCT3 Damper a week or two ago, but I'm currently without cranks, so I haven't had it out. When doing the air shaft last night, I opted for 10wt oil- heard some of you doing 7.5, and they recommended 15, so I split the difference . Now, I'm wondering, you guys are talking about 7.5 in the upper with the damper, aren't you? I was surprised that it's only 5ml of fluid in both lowers and would be amazed if the weight of the fluid made much of a difference down there. Also used Slick Honey instead of the military grease. I'm 175 kitted up and couldn't get the fork to sag much (looking for about 20+%) without dropping it to below 100psi. Still, it will be a bit before I get the bike back together, and now it's cold, so I imagine I won't be able to pick up on subtle changes much other than how it affects geometry.

    One of the easiest forks I've ever worked on.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  21. #171
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smthgfshy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    187
    I've never had any type of suspension before and am looking at a Bluto for a friend. He's 230#, 6'3" and it's going on a 20" Chinese carbon frame.

    Which Bluto would you recommend? After reading this thread it looks as if most folks are having success by switching dampers, adding magical tokens, stealing Poo's honey, and lowering viscosity. I'll suggest those fixes later if he doesn't like the performance. Until then, for his body size, what's gonna be best for him (80, 100, or 120)?

  22. #172
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fat907's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    102
    Recommended is 106ml of 5wt in the uppers and 10ml of 15wt in the bottom........we are changing to 7.5 instead of the 5wt....bottom stays the same

  23. #173
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7,814
    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Recommended is 106ml of 5wt in the uppers and 10ml of 15wt in the bottom........we are changing to 7.5 instead of the 5wt....bottom stays the same
    The chart actually says 5ml 15wt in each lower or are you just saying total?

  24. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fat907's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    102
    Total.....my bad

  25. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,577
    Huh. I guess I figured you guys were going to lower viscosity, not higher. When I swapped out my damper to the RCT3, I used the 106ml of 5wt that was recommended. In the lowers, 5ml of 10wt (instead of 15wt). Slick Honey on the lowers and on the air shaft instead of the red military grease. It's been super cold, so hard to know exactly how it will feel in warmer temps, but so far, it feels WAY better than it did at 100/ stock setup. I also pulled out the one token that was in there, but may end up putting that back in to keep the psi a little lower and small bump sensitivity up, while not blowing through travel on bigger hits.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  26. #176
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    416
    Rode my 21lb Jet9 RDO ther other night - the Bluto with RCT3 / 7.5wt at 120mm is SO MUCH SMOOTHER than my WC SID at 100mm

    It made my Jet that is normally super cushy feel like a buck board in comparison

    Big difference over the stock Bluto as you can imagine - small bump is super cushy

    Next thing is replace the stock red air shaft grease with some slick honey

  27. #177
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pbasinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    746
    I ended up with a new fork, changed out to the nicer damper and it felt better, but still had the feeling it was way too stiff when I pumped it up to a pressure where it wouldn't bottom out. Added 2 tokens for a total of 4 and that made a huge difference. Can run it at 85 psi and no bottom out.

    I have no real conclusion on the best way to tune this fork, but I think I would start with adding tokens and additional lube to the lowers before dropping the money on the damper.

  28. #178
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    149
    How's everyone doing with temps below freezing?

    My fork seems to be getting stuck down on the cold rides...

  29. #179
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fat907's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    102
    Slick honey..........works like magic

  30. #180
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    46
    Do you have to remove the lowers to add tokens and replace the red grease with Slick-Honey on the air side or can you just do it from the top of the air side?

    If just doing these, Does the travel stay the same (120)

    Thanks

  31. #181
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fat907's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    102
    Not to add tokens but yes for the grease.....no travel change

  32. #182
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    45
    Drain off air and unscrew non-drive side top to add/remove token (24 mm socket, quick & easy). Change of damper is the same except its the drive side top that simply needs to be unscrewed (24mm socket, quick & easy)

    You'll need to disassemble fork to get to air shaft (non drive side) and clean military grease off air shaft & piston. You'll need to disassemble fork to get to any rebound damping changes (drive side).

  33. #183
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    542
    I have a 120mm Bluto which came with a lockout lever. I have replaced the cable three times as it slips on me mid ride and the little set screw has crushed the cable. Its weird that if you release the cable it spins to locked out instead of wide open.

    Anyway, my question is can I get the simpler blue compression adjuster knob instead and lose the silly lockout lever and drive side top cap altogether? anyone know the part number?

  34. #184
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    525
    Quote Originally Posted by SRALPH View Post
    I have a 120mm Bluto which came with a lockout lever. I have replaced the cable three times as it slips on me mid ride and the little set screw has crushed the cable. Its weird that if you release the cable it spins to locked out instead of wide open.

    Anyway, my question is can I get the simpler blue compression adjuster knob instead and lose the silly lockout lever and drive side top cap altogether? anyone know the part number?
    I do not know the part numbers, but you could get the upgraded damper listed above - the part numbers are listed. Or I could swap you mine- I have two Bluto forks and kind of want to try the remote lockout on one, but given the problems you are having maybe I don't want to try it. :-)

    Three bottomless tokens seems to be right for me - at 122or so PSI I am really liking the way it rides. I have some slick honey but will probably wait to do that until I do my spring tear down. I may do it sooner if I have any problems with it sticking in the cold but did 30 miles of single track this weekend in sub freezing temps and had no problems at all (other than cold toes). :-)

  35. #185
    mtbr member
    Reputation: prebonked's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    28

    Lockout question

    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    I do not know the part numbers, but you could get the upgraded damper listed above - the part numbers are listed. Or I could swap you mine- I have two Bluto forks and kind of want to try the remote lockout on one, but given the problems you are having maybe I don't want to try it. :-)

    Three bottomless tokens seems to be right for me - at 122or so PSI I am really liking the way it rides. I have some slick honey but will probably wait to do that until I do my spring tear down. I may do it sooner if I have any problems with it sticking in the cold but did 30 miles of single track this weekend in sub freezing temps and had no problems at all (other than cold toes). :-)
    Do any of you guys with the remote lockout have an issue with it not quite locking out completely? When mine is locked, with cable disconnected(lockout knob sprung to locked position)it out it still moves quite a bit, 30mm just with my weight(180lbs)seated. Air pressure is correct. Maybe they are just this way?

  36. #186
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    2,376
    Quote Originally Posted by prebonked View Post
    Do any of you guys with the remote lockout have an issue with it not quite locking out completely? When mine is locked, with cable disconnected(lockout knob sprung to locked position)it out it still moves quite a bit, 30mm just with my weight(180lbs)seated. Air pressure is correct. Maybe they are just this way?
    If you have that much movement....the first thing I would check is oil levels.

  37. #187
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7,814
    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    If you have that much movement....the first thing I would check is oil levels.
    Yup this ^^^^ on the damper side.

  38. #188
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    2,376
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Yup this ^^^^ on the damper side.
    I think ^^^this guy^^^^ gives good details earlier in the thread.
    Or maybe it was a different thread. I'm too lazy to look.

  39. #189
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,577
    Just for posterity's sake, I'm running my Bluto at 120 with the RCT3 damper, Slick Honey and NO air tokens inside. I'm about 175 kitted up and I have it set at factory psi (can't remember right now). I have the compression dialed all the way back/ open and rebound up 3/4 way (towards fast), and when the lockout is open, I just about get full travel and the fork feels quite good (for what it is).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  40. #190
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    46
    Which is the right setting to use for oil? The oil level height or the amount used?

  41. #191
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Aceldama's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    321
    Quick question/test for Bluto owners.

    Do you hear a click when you compress/uncompress your fork?

    The test:
    -get off the bike
    -compress the front fork by pressing on the handlebars
    -let the fork rebound and listen for a click once the fork is completely uncompressed

    It might be easier to reproduce with the rebound speed set to the fastest setting. My fork makes an audible 'click' sound every time. I'm wondering what the clicking is and if it's a problem that I should have checked out.

    Thanks.

    EDIT: WAS THE STEM. FALSE ALARM.
    Last edited by Aceldama; 12-19-2014 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Updated information

  42. #192
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Aceldama's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    321
    Adding a quick and crappy video of the clicking sound:


  43. #193
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3,195
    I'm loving my Bluto so far, but I really hope Rockshox releases a "Pluto" fork. A Bluto but with Pike size stanchions and internals!
    14 Aurum, 15 P.3, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  44. #194
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    192

    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Aceldama View Post
    Quick question/test for Bluto owners.

    Do you hear a click when you compress/uncompress your fork?

    The test:
    -get off the bike
    -compress the front fork by pressing on the handlebars
    -let the fork rebound and listen for a click once the fork is completely uncompressed

    It might be easier to reproduce with the rebound speed set to the fastest setting. My fork makes an audible 'click' sound every time. I'm wondering what the clicking is and if it's a problem that I should have checked out.

    Thanks.
    I don't have that click. Been riding BLUTO since July.

  45. #195
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Aceldama's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    321
    I called my shop and they're going to contact SRAM about it and get back to me.

  46. #196
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Aceldama's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    321
    Update to my 'issue'. It was the stem, I'm an idiot... carry on...

  47. #197
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7,814
    Quote Originally Posted by Aceldama View Post
    Update to my 'issue'. It was the stem, I'm an idiot... carry on...
    This is why I drink, it gives me a good reason for being a screw up.

  48. #198
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Aceldama's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    321
    Good idea...

  49. #199
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MUSTCLIME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    This is why I drink, it gives me a good reason for being a screw up.
    Better a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy......
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  50. #200
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    131
    anyone got an extra token or two they want to sell me? pm if so..

Page 4 of 13 FirstFirst 12345678 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. official xfusion rl2 fork service and tuning thread
    By dwyooaj in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 510
    Last Post: 1 Hour Ago, 02:59 PM
  2. New Bluto Thread!
    By CJones in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 316
    Last Post: 02-26-2016, 09:42 AM
  3. Bluto Hub Options
    By CJones in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 92
    Last Post: 01-22-2016, 12:22 PM
  4. Bluto - Thread Deleted?
    By dfiler in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-09-2014, 08:28 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •