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  1. #101
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    its a 120mm...well that's what's stated on the box

  2. #102
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    If anyone still wants to sell a token or two I would be happy to send them some green stuff!!

  3. #103
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    Pm me. I have 3 left over....
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  4. #104
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    Do you guys know if I can throw an XX hydro remote lockout off a 2012 SID into my Bluto?

    I am assuming if I can put a RCT3 in there the XX will work too right?

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by letitsnow View Post
    You've just described every RS fork that I've had in the past. Waiting for Fox...

    Funny, I have never had a good experience with Fox. I think a lot of it comes down to personal preference. RS customer service has always been great. Fox, not terrible, but definitely more trouble and longer waits.

  6. #106
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    Thanks for the info / links. I have tokens and a new damper ordered.

  7. #107
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    Does anyone have a link for the proper rct3 damper that is in stock?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Does anyone have a link for the proper rct3 damper that is in stock?
    Isn't that the correct one in post 81?
    If not...I think Universal has them

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Isn't that the correct one in post 81?
    If not...I think Universal has them
    Oops sorry it lazy and forgot to look back. I found 2 extra spacers if you need em, you could get them by sat or Friday.

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Oops sorry it lazy and forgot to look back. I found 2 extra spacers if you need em, you could get them by sat or Friday.
    Spacers are supposed to be on the way....if not, I will ping you.
    I might just drive to BC to the Race Face HQ and give someone a carbon beating.

  11. #111
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    Not sure if anyone else saw this, but Borealis is sending out all their Bluto equipped bikes with the better damper.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Not sure if anyone else saw this, but Borealis is sending out all their Bluto equipped bikes with the better damper.
    Where did you see this?
    I have a 1/2 built Echo in my basement

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Where did you see this?
    I have a 1/2 built Echo in my basement
    The Borealis fb page.

  14. #114
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    I'll reiterate my earlier posts about how I am not especially sensitive to stuff on my bike, but curious the reason for the upgraded damper? I have no complaints about the one in my Bluto, but now I seem to be thinking there's something wrong? HA!

    I don't notice the Bluto at all, it does its job and I ride. I use all the travel about once every fourth ride, it doesn't bob too much when I stand and hammer, it doesn't pack up on fast hits or dive in big ones, not sure what else I'd be worried about.

    If someone can clue me in, my credit card finger is itchy...

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Yep, and i'm up 10 125psi with it still a bit too easy to bottom. I'll try bumping it up a bit more but tokens (a more progressive spring rate) would be preferable.
    Over two months later, my initial assessment hasn't changed. I'll be going to a local shop to get tokens. That is, unless someone has found an online source.

    Any idea how much converting it from 100 to 120mm would cost?

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I'll reiterate my earlier posts about how I am not especially sensitive to stuff on my bike, but curious the reason for the upgraded damper? I have no complaints about the one in my Bluto, but now I seem to be thinking there's something wrong? HA!

    I don't notice the Bluto at all, it does its job and I ride. I use all the travel about once every fourth ride, it doesn't bob too much when I stand and hammer, it doesn't pack up on fast hits or dive in big ones, not sure what else I'd be worried about.

    If someone can clue me in, my credit card finger is itchy...
    I think many people won't have problems with the reg damper. If its not broke for you, I wouldn't fix it. Read back through the thread and you can see some of the complaints people have.

  17. #117
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    Pete could you sneak into Borealis and get the part number for the damper they are using

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post

    Any idea how much converting it from 100 to 120mm would cost?
    If you can do the work yourself, about $40 for the air shaft.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  19. #119
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    I have no issues with the regular damper, but I did install 2 tokens (120mm model).
    I jump mine quite a bit, hit drops and that and the fork has felt great. I'd really love to see a beefier Bluto though. Use the Pike damper and Stanchions. Maybe a Bluto XL or something.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  20. #120
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    Universal Cycles has the air shaft for $27, but unless you are buying enough to get free shipping it is probably better to get it locally.

  21. #121
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    Thanks. Think i'll order from them and skip buying more tokens for now. If 120mm stock setup is no tokens and my 100mm version has 2, it might work out perfectly. The new shaft will extend travel and also be more progressive if one or both tokens are left in.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Does anyone have a link for the proper rct3 damper that is in stock?
    You may get a RS #11.4015.544.270/280 SID A3 MoCo DNA RCT3 basevalve 2014 and a # 11.4018.025.002 SID A3 midvalve 27,5/29" 2014.

    With some shim stack tuning you will get a decent fork.

    They are in stock in Germany at Gabelprofi.de - Online Ersatzteilkatalog für RockShox und Avid , don't know about the US ...

    - projekt

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToucanLife View Post
    Do you guys know if I can throw an XX hydro remote lockout off a 2012 SID into my Bluto?

    I am assuming if I can put a RCT3 in there the XX will work too right?
    if you put the remote along with the xx damper it should work.

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by projekt View Post
    You may get a RS #11.4015.544.270/280 SID A3 MoCo DNA RCT3 basevalve 2014 and a # 11.4018.025.002 SID A3 midvalve 27,5/29" 2014.

    With some shim stack tuning you will get a decent fork.

    They are in stock in Germany at Gabelprofi.de - Online Ersatzteilkatalog für RockShox und Avid , don't know about the US ...

    - projekt
    You are the man!!! I was sitting at my lbs trying to decide which one to order along with the rebound damper and my email went off, perfect timing man thank you.
    Last edited by bdundee; 10-10-2014 at 05:23 PM.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Thanks. Think i'll order from them and skip buying more tokens for now. If 120mm stock setup is no tokens and my 100mm version has 2, it might work out perfectly. The new shaft will extend travel and also be more progressive if one or both tokens are left in.
    Careful with the Universal Cycles ones- skip back a page or so in the thread- their listings are mis-marked. I bought one from them that apparently is the wrong air shaft.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbasinger View Post
    Funny, I have never had a good experience with Fox. I think a lot of it comes down to personal preference. RS customer service has always been great. Fox, not terrible, but definitely more trouble and longer waits.
    I've never had to deal with customer service from either company - just going off of how their forks work on bikes that I've had over the years. I'm sure that they both have good/bad points. Like you said - personal preference...

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Pete could you sneak into Borealis and get the part number for the damper they are using
    I am pretty sure it is QBP part number FK8671 if you want to retrofit your fork. The forks we are shipping with the RCT3 damper at Borealis are coming direct from RockShox already fitted with the RCT3 damper and also the dig valve. This is an OE only option so unfortunately you can not order a Bluto set up this way. I am only about 90% sure of the part number though, I am the wheel guy and far from a suspension guy. I do know oil volumes change slightly as well but I am not sure of exactly how much. Slowerthansnot has swapped a lot of these and is our main fork guy so he might know off the top of his head.

    I would like to clarify, ONLY the XX1 builds are shipping with RCT3 forks, I will copy and paste the facebook post below.

    "Since all of us here at Borealis want you riding on the best of the best products, we are excited to announce that all XX1 Echo bikes will now come stock with the upgraded RCT3 damper for the Rockshox Bluto fork!

    There will be NO price increase for this, and we guarantee you that you will notice an extremely improved ride quality with this high quality damper. Enjoy, fat bikers!!"

    "this does include the RCT3 damper AND the Dig Valve from RockShox. https://www.sram.com/rockshox/technologies/dig-valve"

    Hope this helps!

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by chriskmurray View Post
    I am pretty sure it is QBP part number FK8671 if you want to retrofit your fork. The forks we are shipping with the RCT3 damper at Borealis are coming direct from RockShox already fitted with the RCT3 damper and also the dig valve. This is an OE only option so unfortunately you can not order a Bluto set up this way. I am only about 90% sure of the part number though, I am the wheel guy and far from a suspension guy.
    Oh crap I ordered the the fk8670 per the other dude but I did order a new rebound damper that matches it so maybe that combo is good to go anyways.

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Oh crap I ordered the the fk8670 per the other dude but I did order a new rebound damper that matches it so maybe that combo is good to go anyways.
    hmmm, I honestly have no idea what the difference between the two would be but again, I am not a suspension guy.

    I would not be surprised if both work fine though.

  30. #130
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  31. #131
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    My .02 on how to make the bluto awesome

    Your mileage may very on what frame/bike you are running in on.... and as a fyi i'm 6'3" about 200lbs and i've only ridden the bluto on a borrealis echo and Rocky Mtn blizzard...

    I think the stock grease has tons of drag so i like running slick honey.

    think the 100mm air shaft and travel is best suited to the 32mm stations.

    The rct3 damper is an improvement over the RL damper but more so is the dig valve on the lover damping rod and seems to have a wider adjustment over the rl valve...

    on the air side i really like 3 tokens and being on the low side of the air pressures recommended by RS ....

    At some point i'd really like to get my hands on a old school u-turn spring for shits and giggles to ditch the air side and not have to worry about loosing air in the cold temps
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  32. #132
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    Thanks, I'm going to try the Slick Honey for sure when I take it apart to change both dampers. Also I'm only about 15 pounds lighter and I am really liking the three tokens in the 100mm as well.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Thanks for the link!

    I also am a big fan of 3 air tokens but I tend to run pressures on the high side of the official recommendations but that is coming from about 3 years riding almost only rigid.

  34. #134
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    I'm going from 80mm to 120mm this weekend, I weigh 190 and tend to carry some gear for overnighting. Any suggestions on number of air tokens I should go with. I don't like to run to high of pressure, but with adding 40mm, I don't know what to expect on my fatboy.
    Thanks,

  35. #135
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    Well I switched to the rct3 damper and the new rebound damper and lovin it kinda. The slick honey on the air side sure seemed to get rid of any stiction so that is a must. Like stated about the rct3 function is meh but the combination of the damper and new rebound damper seem pretty sweet. The only thing is my lockout still sucks poo, maybe even worse that it was. It is so much easier to check and get an accurate sag measurement now, pretty butter smooth. Trail testing to come.
    Last edited by bdundee; 10-16-2014 at 05:37 AM.

  36. #136
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    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best

  37. #137
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    from those on here more expert than I what can I expect about winter performance from my new Bluto? I've heard everything from you cannot use it in winter and have to get a second fork to it will be fine, to you have to make modifications so it will work in the cold. What is the truth or do we wait until cold comes and find out?

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best
    OK thanks I have had the damper out twice now to see if there was something wrong, I will stop and ride now

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by ishpeming View Post
    from those on here more expert than I what can I expect about winter performance from my new Bluto? I've heard everything from you cannot use it in winter and have to get a second fork to it will be fine, to you have to make modifications so it will work in the cold. What is the truth or do we wait until cold comes and find out?
    I'm certainly no expert but I'll add my .02 cents to this.

    It will absolutely depend on where you live, the type of winter riding you do and the type of winter your area of the world is having. In other words everyone is going to have a different opinion/need/objective/use for their Bluto.

    If your winters are mild and you envision hitting the same sort of trails you would in the summer, then leave it as is.

    If your winters are cold and your hitting the rough stuff then at the very least change the shock oil to a lower viscosity.

    If your just doing relatively light trails, commuting, or winter bike-packing then perhaps a rigid fork is all you really need and you wont be exposing your Bluto to road salt/sand/dirty slush.

    Bottom line is there won't be a right or wrong answer, but there will be plenty of opinions. You said it yourself "wait until the cold comes and find out". At least you know you have some options.

    Good luck.

  40. #140
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    ^^That was a whole lotta typing just to say " I don't know"

    Bottom line.....there are millions of regular Rock Shox suspension forks used during the winter.
    None have exploded in a ball of flames.
    And the planet is still spinning.
    I would bet money the Blutos will be just fine with winter....just fine

  41. #141
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    I've been riding through the winter here in Connecticut (NE USA) for 20+ years on all brands of forks. I would love to say that none had issues, there were some early elastomer based shocks that turn to rocks in the winter. I've had air seals let go from the cold too, but things are definitely better now than they used to be. Once you get below 0F things start to get funky, but that's a rarity around here.

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best
    That's because it's more of a heavy blow off valve than it is a true lock out.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Kinda the same here....the lock out never really seems to work like other forks that I have had....spongey at best
    So I had to just take it apart one more time..... Well in the RS 2015 pdf they say it takes 106ml of oil or 71mm down from the top of the crown, in my fork at least those two do not even come close to being the same. I added oil and brought it up to the 71mm and everything is working sweet now. I get full travel, the lockout works, the low speed compression makes a difference, and I can tell a difference in platforms. The only thing is I ended up adding at least another 45ml of oil or more (didn't keep track on the exact amount) and that is a lot. I did call rs and he is going to talk to some service people and see what they say and get back to me, I hope.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    So I had to just take it apart one more time..... Well in the RS 2015 pdf they say it takes 106ml of oil or 71mm down from the top of the crown, in my fork at least those two do not even come close to being the same. I added oil and brought it up to the 71mm and everything is working sweet now. I get full travel, the lockout works, the low speed compression makes a difference, and I can tell a difference in platforms. The only thing is I ended up adding at least another 45ml of oil or more (didn't keep track on the exact amount) and that is a lot. I did call rs and he is going to talk to some service people and see what they say and get back to me, I hope.
    Thats what i would have done if lockout wasnt working =)
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  45. #145
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    Guess it will come apart ONE more time...lol

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Guess it will come apart ONE more time...lol
    Keep me posted of your findings.

    One thing I learned is never test it before both knobs are fully installed and the little black nut thingie is tightened. The low speed compression will shoot straight out and one will be looking for a spring and a couple of very small ball bearings

  47. #147
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    bdundee....did you check the oil level before you took it apart to change dampers?
    This is the first fork I haven't taken apart before riding.
    Almost every new fork I've ever taken apart had too little ( sometimes none!) or too much oil....among other surprises

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    bdundee....did you check the oil level before you took it apart to change dampers?
    This is the first fork I haven't taken apart before riding.
    Almost every new fork I've ever taken apart had too little ( sometimes none!) or too much oil....among other surprises
    No but sure wished I would have.

  49. #149
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    Hmmm....I got my first real ride in. I have some sort of rattleup front.
    Sounds like a loose headset...but the headset is tight
    Wondering if it's something loose in the fork.
    Or...is the carbon frame amplifying a rattle from somewhere else

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Hmmm....I got my first real ride in. I have some sort of rattleup front.
    Sounds like a loose headset...but the headset is tight
    Wondering if it's something loose in the fork.
    Or...is the carbon frame amplifying a rattle from somewhere else
    loose maxle? brake caliper?
    Read my BLOG!

    just a guy who loves bikes and exploring

  51. #151
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    Oh and SlowerThenSnot you where spot on with getting rid of that red grease crap and using slick honey, so much smoother now!!

  52. #152
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    Where do you apply the Slick Honey? I assume to just the piston on the air shaft but I'm not sure. Thanks.

  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coneheadthebarbituit View Post
    Where do you apply the Slick Honey? I assume to just the piston on the air shaft but I'm not sure. Thanks.
    I lubed up the whole air shaft, the piston, and just a little on top of the piston for good measures

  54. #154
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    Ok boys - I put the XX hydro lockout damper on - loving it! Feels a bit better

    Is there an upgraded rebound damper available as well?

    Would I just order the 2014 SID rebound damper or will that be the same part? 26" or the 27/29"?

  55. #155
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    I contacted my LBS about doing this mod to my Bluto, parts & labor quote is $225.

    I am considering DIY, but I have never taken a fork apart, ever. So I'm more than a bit apprehensive about screwing it up. Fair price or do you think I should give it a shot?

    Any special tools required?

  56. #156
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    Lu-Max, Exactly what mods were quoted at your LBS. This thread has mentioned several. Thank you

  57. #157
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    Not sure why you guys are running such low pressure

    I'm 120mm with 1 token - 175lbs - running 110psi with 15% sag and using 90% of my travel on a single track ride with no jumps

    I also have an XX remote lockout on it which may help as the cartridge is different even in open mode - I checked my oil levels and they were to spec

    I set my air pressure to 80psi at the start since I read here people were having issues - and I could bottom it out in my driveway - this fork is using the same air pressure as my SID WC

    After some slick honey on the seals - this fork is buttery smooth - smoother than my SID

  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by broadwayline View Post
    Not sure why you guys are running such low pressure

    I'm 120mm with 1 token - 175lbs - running 110psi with 15% sag and using 90% of my travel on a single track ride with no jumps
    About the same as I was running (120 psi @ 185# and 10% sag) I would use all my travel on jumps but the small bump compliance sucked poo so I tried lowering it as well and it didn't work for me either. Since the new compression, rebound damper, and the slick honey same psi but the sag went to 20%, still no real trail time but initial tests are good.

  59. #159
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    Oh now I am confused on what to get - the XX remote lockout damper or the RCT3? I have the RCT3 damper already in my Amazon cart but now I am thinking XX???

    I am 240# and want to add a couple tokens to my 120mm Bluto also.

  60. #160
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    I'm not a big remote lockout fan. I like having the ability to add a few clicks of damping over full open or full lock. I'm on the stock RL and I'll lock it out on the pavement, run it in the middle for rolling terrain and go full open on the rougher stuff.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  61. #161
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    Swapping to 7.5wt oil tonight in my 120mm with RCT3 compression damper - will report back how much it helps

  62. #162
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    When I first did the swap I put 20cc less oil but have since went back to stock height while using the 7.5........... I really like the change

  63. #163
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    -5 degrees celcius and can feel my SID rct 3 stiffening up both slow compression/ rebound. I put my money on Bluto not working when temps dip below -30 without fluid mods

  64. #164
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    7.5wt made a huge difference for me - had to add 1 click of rebound to account for it but its smooth as butter in -1*C

    Small bump compliance improved a lot

  65. #165
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    It was the best change I made........better than RCT3 even .....now play with the amount of tokens

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    Perhaps these forks valving work totally different than snowmobile shocks (which I am very familiar with as far as tuning) but normally in a snowmobile shock a change to the weight of the oil only has a noticeable feel difference to the rebound as shock speeds are much less during the rebound stroke. Is this the type of change you noticed Fat907? Also, I read somewhere that Salsa doesn't advise changing from the 100mm to the 120mm. Why would this be? I'm new to all this bike suspension stuff. Thanks.

  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    It was the best change I made........better than RCT3 even .....now play with the amount of tokens
    Did you ever get the lockout to work?

  68. #168
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    Lockout works....but not a true lockout,it still moves about 4 or 5mm...it got noticeably smoother with the 7.5, it goes thru the travel more easily..but that could be from the slick honey....I did both mods at the same time.....RCT3 was the first mod other than changing to the 80mm SID air shaft...rebound is quicker but not boingy ...I'm 3 clicks out and 4 tokens.......230lbs

  69. #169
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    I am going to hold off on ordering the RCT3 damper - the bike budget is pretty well toasted until next year if I don't want to end up a 40something single. ;-)

    I did order a set of bottomless tokens. I got to ride my Bluto tonight and I didn't have any problems with it. Granted the biggest bump I hit was off a curb (riding in parking lot at work - my Sturgis Bullet came today!).

  70. #170
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    Just did the air shaft last night, moving mine from 100 to 120. I did the RCT3 Damper a week or two ago, but I'm currently without cranks, so I haven't had it out. When doing the air shaft last night, I opted for 10wt oil- heard some of you doing 7.5, and they recommended 15, so I split the difference . Now, I'm wondering, you guys are talking about 7.5 in the upper with the damper, aren't you? I was surprised that it's only 5ml of fluid in both lowers and would be amazed if the weight of the fluid made much of a difference down there. Also used Slick Honey instead of the military grease. I'm 175 kitted up and couldn't get the fork to sag much (looking for about 20+%) without dropping it to below 100psi. Still, it will be a bit before I get the bike back together, and now it's cold, so I imagine I won't be able to pick up on subtle changes much other than how it affects geometry.

    One of the easiest forks I've ever worked on.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  71. #171
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    I've never had any type of suspension before and am looking at a Bluto for a friend. He's 230#, 6'3" and it's going on a 20" Chinese carbon frame.

    Which Bluto would you recommend? After reading this thread it looks as if most folks are having success by switching dampers, adding magical tokens, stealing Poo's honey, and lowering viscosity. I'll suggest those fixes later if he doesn't like the performance. Until then, for his body size, what's gonna be best for him (80, 100, or 120)?

  72. #172
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    Recommended is 106ml of 5wt in the uppers and 10ml of 15wt in the bottom........we are changing to 7.5 instead of the 5wt....bottom stays the same

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat907 View Post
    Recommended is 106ml of 5wt in the uppers and 10ml of 15wt in the bottom........we are changing to 7.5 instead of the 5wt....bottom stays the same
    The chart actually says 5ml 15wt in each lower or are you just saying total?

  74. #174
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    Total.....my bad

  75. #175
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    Huh. I guess I figured you guys were going to lower viscosity, not higher. When I swapped out my damper to the RCT3, I used the 106ml of 5wt that was recommended. In the lowers, 5ml of 10wt (instead of 15wt). Slick Honey on the lowers and on the air shaft instead of the red military grease. It's been super cold, so hard to know exactly how it will feel in warmer temps, but so far, it feels WAY better than it did at 100/ stock setup. I also pulled out the one token that was in there, but may end up putting that back in to keep the psi a little lower and small bump sensitivity up, while not blowing through travel on bigger hits.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  76. #176
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    Rode my 21lb Jet9 RDO ther other night - the Bluto with RCT3 / 7.5wt at 120mm is SO MUCH SMOOTHER than my WC SID at 100mm

    It made my Jet that is normally super cushy feel like a buck board in comparison

    Big difference over the stock Bluto as you can imagine - small bump is super cushy

    Next thing is replace the stock red air shaft grease with some slick honey

  77. #177
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    I ended up with a new fork, changed out to the nicer damper and it felt better, but still had the feeling it was way too stiff when I pumped it up to a pressure where it wouldn't bottom out. Added 2 tokens for a total of 4 and that made a huge difference. Can run it at 85 psi and no bottom out.

    I have no real conclusion on the best way to tune this fork, but I think I would start with adding tokens and additional lube to the lowers before dropping the money on the damper.

  78. #178
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    How's everyone doing with temps below freezing?

    My fork seems to be getting stuck down on the cold rides...

  79. #179
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    Slick honey..........works like magic

  80. #180
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    Do you have to remove the lowers to add tokens and replace the red grease with Slick-Honey on the air side or can you just do it from the top of the air side?

    If just doing these, Does the travel stay the same (120)

    Thanks

  81. #181
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    Not to add tokens but yes for the grease.....no travel change

  82. #182
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    Drain off air and unscrew non-drive side top to add/remove token (24 mm socket, quick & easy). Change of damper is the same except its the drive side top that simply needs to be unscrewed (24mm socket, quick & easy)

    You'll need to disassemble fork to get to air shaft (non drive side) and clean military grease off air shaft & piston. You'll need to disassemble fork to get to any rebound damping changes (drive side).

  83. #183
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    I have a 120mm Bluto which came with a lockout lever. I have replaced the cable three times as it slips on me mid ride and the little set screw has crushed the cable. Its weird that if you release the cable it spins to locked out instead of wide open.

    Anyway, my question is can I get the simpler blue compression adjuster knob instead and lose the silly lockout lever and drive side top cap altogether? anyone know the part number?

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRALPH View Post
    I have a 120mm Bluto which came with a lockout lever. I have replaced the cable three times as it slips on me mid ride and the little set screw has crushed the cable. Its weird that if you release the cable it spins to locked out instead of wide open.

    Anyway, my question is can I get the simpler blue compression adjuster knob instead and lose the silly lockout lever and drive side top cap altogether? anyone know the part number?
    I do not know the part numbers, but you could get the upgraded damper listed above - the part numbers are listed. Or I could swap you mine- I have two Bluto forks and kind of want to try the remote lockout on one, but given the problems you are having maybe I don't want to try it. :-)

    Three bottomless tokens seems to be right for me - at 122or so PSI I am really liking the way it rides. I have some slick honey but will probably wait to do that until I do my spring tear down. I may do it sooner if I have any problems with it sticking in the cold but did 30 miles of single track this weekend in sub freezing temps and had no problems at all (other than cold toes). :-)

  85. #185
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    Lockout question

    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    I do not know the part numbers, but you could get the upgraded damper listed above - the part numbers are listed. Or I could swap you mine- I have two Bluto forks and kind of want to try the remote lockout on one, but given the problems you are having maybe I don't want to try it. :-)

    Three bottomless tokens seems to be right for me - at 122or so PSI I am really liking the way it rides. I have some slick honey but will probably wait to do that until I do my spring tear down. I may do it sooner if I have any problems with it sticking in the cold but did 30 miles of single track this weekend in sub freezing temps and had no problems at all (other than cold toes). :-)
    Do any of you guys with the remote lockout have an issue with it not quite locking out completely? When mine is locked, with cable disconnected(lockout knob sprung to locked position)it out it still moves quite a bit, 30mm just with my weight(180lbs)seated. Air pressure is correct. Maybe they are just this way?

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by prebonked View Post
    Do any of you guys with the remote lockout have an issue with it not quite locking out completely? When mine is locked, with cable disconnected(lockout knob sprung to locked position)it out it still moves quite a bit, 30mm just with my weight(180lbs)seated. Air pressure is correct. Maybe they are just this way?
    If you have that much movement....the first thing I would check is oil levels.

  87. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    If you have that much movement....the first thing I would check is oil levels.
    Yup this ^^^^ on the damper side.

  88. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Yup this ^^^^ on the damper side.
    I think ^^^this guy^^^^ gives good details earlier in the thread.
    Or maybe it was a different thread. I'm too lazy to look.

  89. #189
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    Just for posterity's sake, I'm running my Bluto at 120 with the RCT3 damper, Slick Honey and NO air tokens inside. I'm about 175 kitted up and I have it set at factory psi (can't remember right now). I have the compression dialed all the way back/ open and rebound up 3/4 way (towards fast), and when the lockout is open, I just about get full travel and the fork feels quite good (for what it is).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  90. #190
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    Which is the right setting to use for oil? The oil level height or the amount used?

  91. #191
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    Quick question/test for Bluto owners.

    Do you hear a click when you compress/uncompress your fork?

    The test:
    -get off the bike
    -compress the front fork by pressing on the handlebars
    -let the fork rebound and listen for a click once the fork is completely uncompressed

    It might be easier to reproduce with the rebound speed set to the fastest setting. My fork makes an audible 'click' sound every time. I'm wondering what the clicking is and if it's a problem that I should have checked out.

    Thanks.

    EDIT: WAS THE STEM. FALSE ALARM.
    Last edited by Aceldama; 12-19-2014 at 03:29 PM. Reason: Updated information

  92. #192
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    Adding a quick and crappy video of the clicking sound:


  93. #193
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    I'm loving my Bluto so far, but I really hope Rockshox releases a "Pluto" fork. A Bluto but with Pike size stanchions and internals!
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  94. #194
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    Bluto Tuning Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Aceldama View Post
    Quick question/test for Bluto owners.

    Do you hear a click when you compress/uncompress your fork?

    The test:
    -get off the bike
    -compress the front fork by pressing on the handlebars
    -let the fork rebound and listen for a click once the fork is completely uncompressed

    It might be easier to reproduce with the rebound speed set to the fastest setting. My fork makes an audible 'click' sound every time. I'm wondering what the clicking is and if it's a problem that I should have checked out.

    Thanks.
    I don't have that click. Been riding BLUTO since July.

  95. #195
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    I called my shop and they're going to contact SRAM about it and get back to me.

  96. #196
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    Update to my 'issue'. It was the stem, I'm an idiot... carry on...

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aceldama View Post
    Update to my 'issue'. It was the stem, I'm an idiot... carry on...
    This is why I drink, it gives me a good reason for being a screw up.

  98. #198
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    Good idea...

  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    This is why I drink, it gives me a good reason for being a screw up.
    Better a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy......
    The bike is never to heavy, you are just to WEAK!

  100. #200
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    anyone got an extra token or two they want to sell me? pm if so..

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