Results 1 to 40 of 40
  1. #1
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,267

    Best Crank set for Pugs!

    I am having a hard time deciding on a crank set for my Pugs. Right now I have a Hussefelt on it now but would like to get away from the proprietary BB. I can get a Mr. Whirly and E*13 for about $260 but I believe the E*13 uses their own bearings as well (I think). Also the Race Face Atlas FR has crossed my mind but the price is higher. A lot of people talk about the Phil Wood BB but that whole system confuses me a bit and still uses proprietary bearings as well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks......Bob

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,139
    I'd say go with Phil Wood and Middleburn cranks. I don't think the bearings are proprietary, I could certainly be wrong though. My old Kleins use standard Phil spindles in the press in bottom brackets and they use a standard cartridge bearing available at any bearing store. Even though square taper bb's are old technology they work at least as well as the first generation of replacements and there are all sorts of crank choices still available on E Bay.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    101
    I think Mr. Whirly is the way to go. Just buy cheap bearings and replace as needed.

  4. #4
    Ride = Life
    Reputation: racerxti's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    193
    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak
    I'd say go with Phil Wood and Middleburn cranks. I don't think the bearings are proprietary, I could certainly be wrong though. My old Kleins use standard Phil spindles in the press in bottom brackets and they use a standard cartridge bearing available at any bearing store. Even though square taper bb's are old technology they work at least as well as the first generation of replacements and there are all sorts of crank choices still available on E Bay.
    I went the phil's route. I lov the BB, and that company is awesome. However, i hate the lack of selection for cranks. Middleburn cranks seem to always be out of stock looks to be the way to go. Weight is very nice, and bearings shouldnt be that hard to service or replace.
    "Riding is about rhythm and flow. It's the wind in your face and the challenge of hammering up a long hill…" - Gary Klein

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    6,970
    Can the Mr Whirly cranks be removed without special tools?
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,139
    Quote Originally Posted by racerxti
    I went the phil's route. I lov the BB, and that company is awesome. However, i hate the lack of selection for cranks. Middleburn cranks seem to always be out of stock looks to be the way to go. Weight is very nice, and bearings shouldnt be that hard to service or replace.
    On E Bay you can get cranks by Race Face, Cook Bros., Kooka, Middleburn, Shimano, FSA, Ritchey, etc.........With even a moderate amount of searching you should be able to come up with something in just about any price/weight range. Just type in square taper crank, or square taper and see what comes up.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,667
    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike
    Can the Mr Whirly cranks be removed without special tools?
    Yes.

  8. #8
    bicycle dreamer
    Reputation: That Geo Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    133
    I picked up e.13 Hive crankset ... it's absolutely amazing. Big fan.
    Moving the soul with two wheels.
    I have a slight cycling addiction.

    Now living in Nagoya City, Japan!

  9. #9
    How much does it weigh?
    Reputation: Borgschulze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,169
    I paid $240 from CRC for my Atlas FR cranks.

    I'd say they're a good deal.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    67
    Atlas or Whirly with Chris King BB is the only way IMHO. The CK bb is like spinning on butter and you can repack with light weight grease whenever you feel the need.
    I don't like cheap bearings in my bb. I feel the bb is one of the most important moving points on the bike. Cheap bearings may spin nice enough in the stand, but get them under load and they do rob power. I can't say enough about CK's or Phil's outboard bearings.

    E13's bearings are the same as BB30, but in a removable cup set...I believe. I think you can get Phil bearings for them if needed.

  11. #11
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,267
    Quote Originally Posted by sevenpedaler
    Atlas or Whirly with Chris King BB is the only way IMHO. The CK bb is like spinning on butter and you can repack with light weight grease whenever you feel the need.
    I don't like cheap bearings in my bb. I feel the bb is one of the most important moving points on the bike. Cheap bearings may spin nice enough in the stand, but get them under load and they do rob power. I can't say enough about CK's or Phil's outboard bearings.

    E13's bearings are the same as BB30, but in a removable cup set...I believe. I think you can get Phil bearings for them if needed.
    That might be the way I would go (e*13) if I knew for sure replacement bearings would always be available. The set would cost me about $60 more the the Phil BB alone.

  12. #12
    MTB aficionado
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,022

    Surly

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee
    That might be the way I would go (e*13) if I knew for sure replacement bearings would always be available. The set would cost me about $60 more the the Phil BB alone.
    The surly is great for several of reasons. 1) you can get any size and combination of 5 arm chain-rings you desire... the e13... not. 2) BB bearings are standard issue and are easily up-gradeable with Enduro ceramics or hybrid ceramics... which are on par if not better than those found in a CK BB. 3) No proprietary tools necessary / simple pinch bolt design. I have a friend who's having a struggle with is e13 having the non-driveside crank arm coming loose. I've never have this problem with the surly crank.

    Regards,

    EndUser
    My advice and $3 will buy you nothing more than a tunafish sandwich

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Steve Balogh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    803
    Quote Originally Posted by racerxti
    I went the phil's route. I lov the BB, and that company is awesome. However, i hate the lack of selection for cranks. Middleburn cranks seem to always be out of stock looks to be the way to go. Weight is very nice, and bearings shouldnt be that hard to service or replace.

    For getting Middleburn's in the US I've had really good luck with MTB Tandems getting replacement parts for mine. I seriously damaged the rings earlier this year, but the cranks held up fine. I also use the Phil Wood BB.

  14. #14
    Lighten up.
    Reputation: mangoman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,089
    Another vote for Hive stuff. I bought the Fatback version of Hive/FifteenG's triple crankset for my Pugsley and love it. Sold the Pugs and kept the crankset for the upcoming Fatback frame.

  15. #15
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,590
    Running a Mr. Whirly on my Big Dummy, works great. Yes to all that has been said, chainring spider options is the coolest one though.

    Running a Race Face on my Pug, just what you'd expect, big beefy, solid, good looks, and modern.

    Planning on running a Phil/RF Turbine LP 110/74 on my Form Fatty when it shows. What others have said on this is true too. The Phil will be a long lasting player. It will likely outlast crank sets. The bearings are commonly available as far as size goes, but getting the Phil ones will offer longer life it seems.

    You can run any square taper crank you like, so while you may spend for the BB, you have just about infinite options for cranks, just hit eBay. XT, XTR, Race Face, Sugino (they still make one to this day in 110/74 FYI) Kooka, whatever. I just got to the EZ Off oven cleaner party (a bit late.....), but any set of beat up, ano'ed cranks can be freshened up to bright silver with a bit of elbow grease and a can of that stuff....

    Lot's of options, all good, express yourself!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  16. #16
    Witty McWitterson
    Reputation: ~martini~'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    5,025
    Surly's are super nice. Stiff. Versatile. You can move them from bike to bike, with a simple spindle change. Problem with them? they're heavy. Granted, the Pugs isn't exactly light, but still. I've also had problems with bending and twisting the spider/rings I ran.

    The standard Phil/square taper set up is as bomb proof and simple as they come. As many here know, it ain't cheap though.

    Race Face is always good. No problems there.

    Personally, I'm a huge fan of the e13's. They're light, stiff, and reasonably priced. while the whole chainring issue USED to be an issue when the 104 pattern was release, there are plenty of options out there now. Unless you want freaky gearing that is. But there are guys out there that make nice custom stuff. I've had the e13's for a bit over a year now with no issues. Bearings are just fine, and like has been said, if you want to replace them with something higher quality, that's easy.
    Just a regular guy.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,604
    I destroyed 2 Phils on my Rando / Long distance road bike. Mud, rain, dirt roads, etc. I know they are 'bomb proof' - I guess I'm just more than a bomb.

    I'm got the Whirly on my SS. Will move it to my Pugs when time comes to let the stock crank go... and I feel like buying a spindle.

    I like the 94 bcd, matches another bike - so I can use various ring combos throughout...

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: davesauvageau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,047
    Okay, Pugs has 100mm BB. E*13 cranks don't work with the BB width. The cranks look beautiful, but won't work on a Pugs. I have Truvativ Holzfeller cranks with the Howitzer BB on mine and I love them!
    My motorcycle runs on infant blood

  19. #19
    bicycle dreamer
    Reputation: That Geo Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by davesauvageau
    Okay, Pugs has 100mm BB. E*13 cranks don't work with the BB width. The cranks look beautiful, but won't work on a Pugs. I have Truvativ Holzfeller cranks with the Howitzer BB on mine and I love them!

    e.13 makes a 100mm wide snowbike crank. Do some searching - it's beautiful!
    Moving the soul with two wheels.
    I have a slight cycling addiction.

    Now living in Nagoya City, Japan!

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,139
    Quote Originally Posted by davesauvageau
    Okay, Pugs has 100mm BB. E*13 cranks don't work with the BB width. The cranks look beautiful, but won't work on a Pugs. I have Truvativ Holzfeller cranks with the Howitzer BB on mine and I love them!
    Dave, You need to look closer at the E 13 website. They talk about a 145 mm spindle for Snowbikes. Unless that is something they have discontinued while leaving it on the website it should work on a Pugs or any other bike with a 100mm bottom bracket.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: davesauvageau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,047
    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak
    Dave, You need to look closer at the E 13 website. They talk about a 145 mm spindle for Snowbikes. Unless that is something they have discontinued while leaving it on the website it should work on a Pugs or any other bike with a 100mm bottom bracket.
    Did not see that! I usually just look at catalogs at work such as QBP and BTI, sometimes they do not include all of the options. Thanks for the info, I plan on using the standard crankset with my Karate Monkey soon. I love that the new ones come without rings and with bottom bracket too, it makes more sense to me!
    My motorcycle runs on infant blood

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    70
    I have the FSA DH style cranks. works great. FSA also has a cheaper price.

  23. #23
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,267
    You guys are going to think I'm nuts but I am going to have a Shimano external bb crankset spindle made wider by a local machine shop. We will see what happens.

  24. #24
    How much does it weigh?
    Reputation: Borgschulze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,169
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee
    You guys are going to think I'm nuts but I am going to have a Shimano external bb crankset spindle made wider by a local machine shop. We will see what happens.
    I'd rock XTR cranks on my Fatbike.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    4,667
    The E*13 cranks are lighter, but the Q-factor is the same as the Mr Whirleys. If they were narrower I'd get a pair, but to save some grams I guess it just isn't worth it. I'd rather spend it on wheels.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    6,970
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee
    You guys are going to think I'm nuts but I am going to have a Shimano external bb crankset spindle made wider by a local machine shop. We will see what happens.
    I like your thinking.

    I was contemplating getting an ISIS axle widened and machined so I could continue to use my nice light Middleburn ISIS cranks with an external BB setup too.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  27. #27
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,267
    Quote Originally Posted by Velobike
    I like your thinking.

    I was contemplating getting an ISIS axle widened and machined so I could continue to use my nice light Middleburn ISIS cranks with an external BB setup too.
    I will keep you posted but I first need to find a decent crankset at a cheap price. I'm thinking maybe a Race Face Ride XC or similar. Something to sacifice for the cause

  28. #28
    Frt Range, CO
    Reputation: pursuiter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    2,577
    I was think about doing this to a Shimano LX crank, Jenson has 'em on sale for $90. Might have to machine a internal sleeve that fits inside the cut spindle, then weld it.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,139
    Quote Originally Posted by pursuiter
    I was think about doing this to a Shimano LX crank, Jenson has 'em on sale for $90. Might have to machine a internal sleeve that fits inside the cut spindle, then weld it.
    I extended a square taper Ti spindle for my wifes bike. I cut the spindle, sleeved it and glued and pinned the two together. I used West G Flex epoxy. She hasn't ridden it enough for a definitive report on how it holds up. I'll report if it breaks or not after some more miles.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bobbotron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,305
    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak
    I extended a square taper Ti spindle for my wifes bike. I cut the spindle, sleeved it and glued and pinned the two together. I used West G Flex epoxy. She hasn't ridden it enough for a definitive report on how it holds up. I'll report if it breaks or not after some more miles.
    That's brilliant.

  31. #31
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,267
    I like the responses I thought everyone would think I was nuts. I was thinking if I did an internal sleeve for a hollow spindle I would turn it down so it is close to fitting then put it in liquid co2 (I think) to get it to shrink and insert. It should swell up and be really tight, then weld it in.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Velobike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    6,970
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee
    I like the responses I thought everyone would think I was nuts...
    I think that's the norm for this forum
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 57º36' Highlands, Scotland

  33. #33
    A Surly Maverick
    Reputation: Dr Feelygood !'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2,614
    [QUOTE=bdundee]I like the responses I thought everyone would think I was nuts.

    Not much chance of that on this forum

    WE all love messing around with stuff
    Life IS a Beach and then you Corrode

  34. #34
    R.I.P. Pugsley.
    Reputation: Rabies010's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    1,706
    Someone already advised me on a warm jacket, only i see difficulties when it comes to steering....
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  35. #35
    Frt Range, CO
    Reputation: pursuiter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    2,577
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee
    ...I would turn it down so it is close to fitting then put it in liquid co2 (I think) to get it to shrink and insert. It should swell up and be really tight, then weld it in.
    OK, that's nuts It's not a F-111 wing bearing, it's a 1hp spindle (on a good day).

  36. #36
    R.I.P. Pugsley.
    Reputation: Rabies010's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    1,706
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee
    I like the responses I thought everyone would think I was nuts. I was thinking if I did an internal sleeve for a hollow spindle I would turn it down so it is close to fitting then put it in liquid co2 (I think) to get it to shrink and insert. It should swell up and be really tight, then weld it in.
    I think the liquid CO2 is a bit "over the top".
    (and maybe even a bit dangerous and possibly can alter and/or damage the moleculair structure of the metal)
    But a few hours in the freezer at -18c will do the trick as well, especialy when you heat up the hollow spindle a bit with a torch or just plain and simple over the stove.
    Then you can slide them together with almost no effort.

  37. #37
    aka bOb
    Reputation: bdundee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8,267
    Quote Originally Posted by Rabies010
    I think the liquid CO2 is a bit "over the top".
    (and maybe even a bit dangerous and possibly can alter and/or damage the moleculair structure of the metal)
    But a few hours in the freezer at -18c will do the trick as well, especialy when you heat up the hollow spindle a bit with a torch or just plain and simple over the stove.
    Then you can slide them together with almost no effort.
    Yeah that is a little over the top! And I was thinking nitrogen. My wife is a science teacher and I have access to it but your right a freezer would do the job.
    Last edited by bdundee; 02-18-2011 at 10:32 PM.

  38. #38
    R.I.P. Pugsley.
    Reputation: Rabies010's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    1,706
    When i was orund 16/17 i followed metalshop at school.
    And they had an old freezer in the corner just for things like this.
    It was an old toploader so they could hoist bigger things in there as well.
    And it worked pretty well.

    *Edit.
    Clean the surface very welll and put a thin coat of grease on it before you put it in the freezer.
    This will prevent condensation/ice crystals from forming on it.
    Last edited by Rabies010; 02-18-2011 at 07:52 AM.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    494
    I had FSA and 175 RF North Shore cranks on my Pugs. I thought they were pretty good, until I got a Phil, and 180 Middleburns. Now I know why Phil and Middleburn are so highly regarded. I didn't know the meaning of smooooth, but now I do. They're a terrific combination, that I can't recommend highly enough to anyone wishing to achieve Zen.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: lancelot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    996
    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee
    That might be the way I would go (e*13) if I knew for sure replacement bearings would always be available. The set would cost me about $60 more the the Phil BB alone.

    Zipp makes a BB that is compatible with the E13 crankset if you would like to upgrade to ceramic.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

mtbr.com and the ConsumerReview Network are business units of Invenda Corporation

(C) Copyright 1996-2018. All Rights Reserved.