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  1. #1
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    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!

    Ever wonder what the best treatment for the insides of your chromoly steel frame would be?

    Were about to find out!

    Special thanks to Walt, Waltworks Custom Bicycles Bikes, recipes and ranting for sending me the chromoly tubing for this project.

    Products tested include the following

    product 1: Corrosion X HD

    product 2: Frame Saver

    product 3: WD-40 specialist long term corrosion inhibitor

    product 4: Boeshield T-9

    product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector

    Product 6: Fluid Film


    All products were bought with my own money. I am not affiliated with any of these companies.

    Note: All products were applied throughly. First coat allowed to cure 24hrs. 2nd coat allowed to cure another 24 hrs.
    All tubes were polished with a wire wheel and cleaned with alcohol before products were applied.

    I will be spraying tubes with a saltwater solution and posting images of the mayhem as regularly as I can.

    Which product do you think will be the winner?

    Tune in to find out!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1695.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    You should maybe pee on each once or twice too, to simulate real-world conditions...

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    I'm really hoping Frame Saver kicks ass as that's what's in all my frames.

    How often will they get sprayed with salt water?
    Are those little tubes behind the cans what your testing?
    What steel tubing is being used? Are they all the same?
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  4. #4
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    Hey OneSpeed


    They will be evenly sprayed down once daily
    All the tubes 1-6 are in order from left to right
    Corresponding treatments a shown above
    I will check with Walt on the tubing manuf.

    Lol Mike

    Yes peeing on them would really add to the excitement
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  5. #5
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    Let the mayhem begin: Day 1

    Day 1


    product 1: Corrosion X HD

    product 2: Frame Saver

    product 3: WD-40 specialist long term corrosion inhibitor

    product 4: Boeshield T-9

    product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector

    Product 6: Fluid Film
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1696.jpg  

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  6. #6
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    No doubt Walt uses a wide variety of tubing. Many of those could have very different corrosion resistance.

    I'm afraid if you can't be sure they are all the exact same material, this will all have to be taken with a grain of salt.
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  7. #7
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    I hope J.P. WEIGLE (FRAMESAVER) wins, 1, because my Waltworks has a lot of it in there and 2, because it cost me a fortune to get hold of! 

    Subscribed Mikee, looking forward to the results...

  8. #8
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    I hope the Framesaver works as well, but I am very curious to see the results of this.

    Also, +1 on the pee!


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  9. #9
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    I don’t see Boeshield loosing.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    You should maybe pee on each once or twice too, to simulate real-world conditions...
    That's for derailleur testing...
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  11. #11
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    May I suggest adding two / three things?

    (1) An example of mild steel, as it will rust more easily than the bicycle tubing. A common nail should work.

    Would doing so, provide a base line?

    (2) A hot parifin-minerial oil application. We went through this a short while ago in referance to chain lubes; a creative mind could come up with a method to apply the mix in a seat tube.

    What is unknown...are all of the tubing examples of the same type? If not, it invalidates the experiment. If so...it needs to be stated to be sure we are comparing apples to apples.

    Walt?

    (3) Subject each example to a 'naked' salt exposure? While not necessary, it would point out just how effective each application substance is over none at all.

    If these suggestions come a little late...not all is lost; for under the 'unknowns' the experiment still is pointing the reader in the right direction.

    The effort is to be applauded!

    @VB; you know under the temps Mike rides, he has to, from time to time, pee on his chain and derailleur to brake them free, adding a little salt, lowers the temp at which freezing will do so again; and you know, at freezing temps, his aim is not precise!

    Well...that is an assumption made from personal experience...if...I can find it!
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  12. #12
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    Yes, I totally should have put an untreated piece up there...

    Fwiw I did an experiment similar to this using roughly 20 different treatment methods, and i did use an untreated control piece in that test.

    The best product from my first test however were unacceptable for use for bicycle frame tubing because the products would not spread once sprayed into a tube.

    For example:
    One of the leading products in my first test was called “5th wheel lube” nasty black stuff. I tried spraying it into a piece of pvc pipe to see what it would do.
    It was so thick/gummy it just stuck right to where it was sprayed. So not ideal for bikes.

    Sidenote: Considering what I learned from the first round of testing, I wanted to use products that were not “solvents”
    Think firearms lube/cleaners
    I wanted something that would coat tubes internally and then stay put!

    My plan after discovering the winner is to flush out the tubes every 6-12 months with some sort of solvent/alcohol and then reapply the winning product. #healthytubes

  13. #13
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    Just leave it in there! No?

    My vote goes to Fluid Film. I have had good results with it except on epdm gasket
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  14. #14
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    CorrosionX HD. My Surly frames are full of CorrosionX Marine which I believe is similar. I've been using it for years on ocean going offshore boats. Stuff is straight up good! A number of years ago, I saw a similar test done under similar conditions but with plate steel. There are a few new products out since but Boeshield was around as was the CorrosionX. They used standard WD40 back then and amazingly, it was very near the top of the list when it was all over.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADDLE TRAMP View Post
    ...@VB; you know under the temps Mike rides, he has to, from time to time, pee on his chain and derailleur to brake them free, adding a little salt, lowers the temp at which freezing will do so again; and you know, at freezing temps, his aim is not precise! ...
    At those temps, I'd be lucky to find something to aim with...
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  16. #16
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    One could get their frame galvanized. It may not look attractive, but it should hold up fairly well.

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    product 5: Amsoil Heavy duty metal protector
    That's my guess/hunch.
    Never had a steel frame rust out. Just jet it with water to wash crap out. pull the seetpost to let dry and spray some crap in the vent holes now and again. Pulling the seat post often is probably the best, bb likes that also.

  18. #18
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    Hey Surly I Ride,

    Yeah, galvanizing is a concept for sure.
    I galvanized a set of motorcycle fenders years ago. I could be wrong but there may be certain challenges in galvanizing varieties of objects and shapes. It might be a good idea to consult with a pro on this one. Would be cool to send an old frame to get galvanized just for the hell of it.

    Fwiw my Harley fenders, although now more corrosion resistant seemed weaker. This could have just been me though. Take this with a grain of salt.

    Sidenote: In my first round of testing the number one product in corrosion prevention was POWDERCOAT.

    Hands down!

    All the other steel pieces were destroyed by corrosion and the powdered pieces looked good as new!

    This may help readers of this thread torn between an old school paint job or a powdercoat.

    I used multiple different enamel paints.
    Waxed paints... Greased paints etc.

    POWDERCOAT is KING

  19. #19
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    A few spots forming on No. 4, all the others have zero signs of rust

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1752.jpg
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeetheviking View Post
    Hey Surly I Ride,

    Yeah, galvanizing is a concept for sure.
    I galvanized a set of motorcycle fenders years ago. I could be wrong but there may be certain challenges in galvanizing varieties of objects and shapes. It might be a good idea to consult with a pro on this one. Would be cool to send an old frame to get galvanized just for the hell of it.

    Fwiw my Harley fenders, although now more corrosion resistant seemed weaker. This could have just been me though. Take this with a grain of salt.

    Sidenote: In my first round of testing the number one product in corrosion prevention was POWDERCOAT.

    Hands down!

    All the other steel pieces were destroyed by corrosion and the powdered pieces looked good as new!

    This may help readers of this thread torn between an old school paint job or a powdercoat.

    I used multiple different enamel paints.
    Waxed paints... Greased paints etc.

    POWDERCOAT is KING
    Powder coat I have also found to be generally superior for corrosion resistance. Exception, on sharp edges it doesn't perform well as sides of tube & plate.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeetheviking View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nooooo...
    Latitude 61

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADDLE TRAMP View Post
    May I suggest adding two / three things?

    (1) An example of mild steel, as it will rust more easily than the bicycle tubing. A common nail should work.

    Would doing so, provide a base line?

    (2) A hot parifin-minerial oil application. We went through this a short while ago in referance to chain lubes; a creative mind could come up with a method to apply the mix in a seat tube.

    What is unknown...are all of the tubing examples of the same type? If not, it invalidates the experiment. If so...it needs to be stated to be sure we are comparing apples to apples.

    Walt?

    (3) Subject each example to a 'naked' salt exposure? While not necessary, it would point out just how effective each application substance is over none at all.

    If these suggestions come a little late...not all is lost; for under the 'unknowns' the experiment still is pointing the reader in the right direction.

    The effort is to be applauded!

    @VB; you know under the temps Mike rides, he has to, from time to time, pee on his chain and derailleur to brake them free, adding a little salt, lowers the temp at which freezing will do so again; and you know, at freezing temps, his aim is not precise!

    Well...that is an assumption made from personal experience...if...I can find it!
    Follow on - how about testing untreated tube vs treated tube with alu seat post - how long until galvanic corrosion sets in? And... will peeing on it break it loose? (Not that I've ever fused a seat post to a steel frame before... )

  23. #23
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    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1762.jpgAnti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1763.jpg

    Per Walt,

    All tubes are 4130 True Temper

    Today we have 2 products allowing rust to form

    Product 2:Framesaver

    and Product 4:Boeshield T-9

    All others are rust-free at the moment.

    Kinda makes me sad about the boeshield, because it is one of my favorite drivetrain lubes
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  24. #24
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    My Pipedream Moxie. "All of our frames are have ED (Electrophoretic Deposition) treatment. This covers every surface, inside and out, with a uniform non-porous layer which protects the frame from corrosion. The frames are then painted."

    Moxie Enduro Hardtail | 27.5/27.5+/29er Compatible
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  25. #25
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    I didn't think I'd like this thread...but I'm liking this thread. A few baseless and bold predictions with wagers would have cemented the suspense but the rising action delivers.

  26. #26
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    Hey Travis,

    Where can a frame be sent for ED coatings?
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    My Pipedream Moxie. "All of our frames are have ED (Electrophoretic Deposition) treatment. This covers every surface, inside and out, with a uniform non-porous layer which protects the frame from corrosion. The frames are then painted."
    Surly and a few others use the same process from the factory, which I love. It's interesting to me that Surly also still recommends Frame Saver as the best preventative measure, in addition to the factory coating.

    OP thanks for clarifying we are testing the same tubing for all products, that could have potentially made a big difference.

    I'm pretty surprised to see rust on the Frame saver piece. Granted this is some rough testing conditions (not even a rinse cycle, which I'm totally on board with) but with two coats I would have expected it to hold up better/longer.
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  28. #28
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    I don't think either of my Karate Monkeys have ED. In fact, they are both quite rigid.

  29. #29
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    Are we missing a contendor here? ACF-50??

  30. #30
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    Just saw this. Cool test! I'm guessing Fuidfilm continues to perform well. That's what I've settled on for my cars here in the rustbelt. After a year or so with some road grime mixed in it becomes extremely sticky and effective. Only place it isn't fantastic is in the wheel wells where it gets hit with a direct shot of spray from the tires. Pretty much disappears after about 100 miles.

  31. #31
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    Where's the one with boiled linseed oil? That's inside my Karate Monkey. With a little care, a steel bike should last quite a long time.

  32. #32
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    This is a funny thread to me, I don’t keep a bike long enough for it to corrode much

    Carbon and Ti are corrosion resistant

    I’m more concerned about corrosion on my vehicle...

  33. #33
    Anytime. Anywhere.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeetheviking View Post
    Hey Travis,

    Where can a frame be sent for ED coatings?
    No idea, Pipedream shipped the frame from the factory in Taiwan. They don't make a fat bike though.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    This is a funny thread to me, I don’t keep a bike long enough for it to corrode much

    Carbon and Ti are corrosion resistant

    I’m more concerned about corrosion on my vehicle...
    You can apply the winning "protectant" to your vehicle too. Unless of course it's made of Ti and carbon!

    Yes, it's a little funny but why not preserve the bike as long as possible so some one somewhere can enjoy the bike too. Imagine your old whatever mtb ending up who knows where changing the life of some soul who could really use it. They'd be stoked!
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  35. #35
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    Been a few days, what's the updated list/pictures?

  36. #36
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    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1824.jpgAnti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1823.jpgAnti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1822.jpg

    Hey Jason Rides Bikes, forgive my delay.

    Product 4: Boeshield is doing very poorly "the worst so far"

    Next one with corrosion still spreading is product 2: Framesaver

    Product 5: Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector has a teeny weeny bit of corrosion forming

    All others are corrosion free
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  37. #37
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    Go Fluid Film!
    "Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway" John Wayne

  38. #38
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    Wow, makes me question if I should order that frame saver from Q like I was thinking about doing.
    Is there a control piece that hasn't been treated? I wonder if the frame saver/others that are developing rust are just creating a layer between the metal and the rust isn't actually getting to the tubing?

    I'm glad you are testing this! I do (finally) plan on actually keeping the bikes I have now (Jones Plus, Pugsley) so have been thinking of what to treat the frames with.
    Deflated - buy parts to sell parts to buy more parts.. bikes are my drug of choice

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  39. #39
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    Hey Jason Rides Bikes,

    Yeah, it appears there is something better out there than Surly's recommended framesaver and boeshield that we've been using all these years.

    I can't wait to see who the top 2 finalists are

    FWIW this is my second round of testing and boeshield and framesaver performed quite poorly. Part of the reason I am investigating better solutions.

    I totally forgot to do a control piece.

    However I did use a control piece on my first test and as you can imagine the speed at which the corrosion spread was significantly faster then all other test pieces.
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  40. #40
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    I imagine within a month there will be quite the colorization. I may hold off another week or two. I did see that wd40 has a rust inhibitor when I was picking up some tools at HD

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    After the rust has settled, will there be a test on rust neutralizer?

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Rides Bikes View Post
    Wow, makes me question if I should order that frame saver from Q like I was thinking about doing.
    Do you also plan on spraying the inside of your frame with salt water every day? If not, Frame Saver is a great product for protecting the inside of your frame.

    It won't increase the tolerances inside your seat tube, or gum up the threads of your BSA BB, and it's been successfully used by thousands for many years. Many frame manufacturers even recommend it by name.

    Some of these other products may also work inside a bike frame, but there are some unknowns for sure. Use at your own risk.
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  43. #43
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    Does anyone have experience with a quality frame developing rust to the point of failure or where you were no longer comfortable that it was safe? My understanding is that rust is looked at a little differently now-a-days, that if it is good quality steel, it can form a protective coat of rust just on the surface that does not spread through the interior and weaken the metal. I see a lot of pedestrian bridges that have a rust coat from the day they are installed.

    Powder coat is definitely a great protection but I question if it can effectively be applied inside a tube. I can see that being an issue with a lot of products.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Does anyone have experience with a quality frame developing rust to the point of failure or where you were no longer comfortable that it was safe?
    One of the steel frames I broke a couple years ago broke the chainstay on the drive side clean through. It happened right at the vent hole near the dropout which was also in the heat effected zone from welding so I can't say for sure what the problem was. I bought the frame used and don't know how it was treated before I owned it, but I could see some light rust in there. That was a Reynolds 520 frame.
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  45. #45
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    Ya know, there are already plenty of examples of this type of protection in use, for example steel tubing that is shipped and stored for long periods of time; they use a heavy grease/oil. I’m sure a wax based product would “stick” to steel quite well.

    A thick oil with a rust inhibitor, heated, poured into a frame, swirled and dumped, that’d be a fair choice.

    I still don’t see that rust is a big deal, lots of old steel frames out there that are fine years after being built without any internal protection.

    If I was riding in salty conditions, I’d ride something that is corrosion resistant.

    I’d be curious about a corrosion resistance comparison between steel and aluminum frames, using actual frames, with stress testing. A couple broken frames, use the head tube or B.B. sections.

    K don’t keep bikes long enough for rust to develop

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    A thick oil with a rust inhibitor, heated, poured into a frame, swirled and dumped, that’d be a fair choice.
    The CorrosionX product I have used for years is sort of like that. It's a pretty sticky gooey substance that cures in place and as we're seeing in this test, it works incredibly well. Like I mentioned above, my '15 Karate Monkey got the full treatment of CorrosionX Marine and the items I have sprayed it on for years on several offshore boats I run are proving the stuff completely effective.

  47. #47
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    Products 2 and 4 are still spiraling downward

    Product 5 has a very small spot of corrosion beginning to form

    Products 1, 3 and 6 remain unscathed

    Note: I am VERY impressed with the corrosion resistance of chromoly steel compared to mild steel

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1889.jpgAnti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1890.jpgAnti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1891.jpg
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  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazpat View Post
    Does anyone have experience with a quality frame developing rust to the point of failure or where you were no longer comfortable that it was safe?


    I took my untreated Pugs to the Baja and camped on the beach a firsbee's throw from the ocean for a combined total of at least 6 months over several trips. I rode through the area the waves would crash onto the beach so the tires were spraying saltwater at times. I never washed the bike or at least so infrequently it might have been 1/year. At home I rode it through typical Canadian winters with road salt and such.



    I didn't submerge it in the ocean or ride right into the ocean. Mostly because that seemed dumb.

    It developed some minor surface rust. After about 4yrs I took the bike apart, sandblasted the frame and refinished it. The bike is now 10yrs old and a friend is still riding it.

    After that I stopped worrying about rustproofing the inside of my steel frames despite living in the PNWet now. If I cared about the finish I should have washed it weekly in Baja with fresh water to get the salt off. I don't worry about any threat to structural integrity due to normal use in snow or rain.

    I would ensure my steel bikes had a drain hole in the bottom of the BB. For my proper "rain bikes" I use full fenders to keep wheel spray at bay.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    My Pipedream Moxie. "All of our frames are have ED (Electrophoretic Deposition) treatment. This covers every surface, inside and out, with a uniform non-porous layer which protects the frame from corrosion. The frames are then painted."

    Moxie Enduro Hardtail | 27.5/27.5+/29er Compatible
    My newest Surly frame came with ED coating as well. I didn't bother with any additional rustproofing.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  50. #50
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    interesting....

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    ... I’m sure a wax based product would “stick” to steel quite well...
    Like Waxoyl?
    With cars, it's Hardwax for underbody, 'soft wax' for inside panels, and Topwax for protecting paint for storage (or harsh environments).
    Friend had his '84 Golf treated with the Hardwax. Where treated, it was still good 24 years later when the vehicle went to someone else.
    After checking it out when a friend kept an '84 Golf good (where we salt roads) for 24 years before it went to someone else, I got some hardwax and softwax for my car. So I give a shot of 'soft wax' into steel bike tubes for protection; good so far.
    I haven't tried Topwax.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  52. #52
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    Test Update:

    Product 1,3 and 6 still immaculate


    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_1934.jpg
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  53. #53
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    I had faith in #1 based on experience. I'm glad that I filled my Karate Monkey frame with it when bought new. Not that I'll benefit from it but maybe in a hundred years it'll end up in a museum!

  54. #54
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    Would be interesting to also test boiled linseed oil.
    It was the rust inhibitor of choice for centuries.

    I've used it on most of my pre-ED coated steel frames. I now use it annually (or close) to protect my Land Rover Defenders' frame and bulkhead.

    It polymerizes into a elastic rubbery layer, very sturdy

  55. #55
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    First complete failure

    My beloved drivetrain lube is the first to completely fail.

    This test has already paid of in my eyes.

    Because I was about to use Boeshield in a brand new Waltworks.

    If any Surly reps are reading this, or anyone who can forward this to Surly.
    Surly may want to re-consider recommending the use of Boeshield inside their frames.

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2229.jpgAnti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2230.jpg
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  56. #56
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    Not to despair. Perhaps as a lube, your beloved Boeshield may still be useful. I certainly wouldn't be squirting into my frame, though!

  57. #57
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    Hey Oh My Sack!

    Yeah, I will keep using it on the drivetrain.

    Speaking of drivetrain lubes...

    Anyone have a preference? and why?
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    Thanks for doing this test, Mikee! Thanks to your test results, the rust scales have fallen from my eyes! I sprayed Boeshield inside the frame of my Pugs that I ride on the beach and in the dunes. I do rinse my bike after every beach ride using a gentle spray from my garden hose. But I now may have to get one of the better products for inside my frames. (This bike sports the "full dress" Big-O fenders, which are simply awesome for keeping sand from the tires from getting flung onto the frame and chain)

    I use galvanized KMC Rustbuster chains, and since I run Shimano A-8 IGH hubs, the Boeshield seems to stay on my chains fairly well. I am still using my first KMC Rustbuster chain, which has been in service for 4 years and easily has 1,000 miles on it. I haven't lubed it for over a month, now (I only average about 60 miles/month on this bike). The links still function smoothly. I guess I should wonder about "chain stretch".

  59. #59
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    Hey PlutonicPlague!

    Never heard of the rustbuster chain before! Looks great for the beach!

    Thanks for the tip!

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeetheviking View Post
    .....drivetrain lubes... Anyone have a preference? and why?
    Squirt lube..... wax based dry lube, keeps the drivetrain clean and sand free.... cant remember the last time I used a chain cleaner on my bike.

  61. #61
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    Testing update:

    The next candidate showing signs of weakness is Framesaver

    Note: Look at the salt deposits forming on the Amsoil treated piece
    None of the other pieces are allowing formations of this sort.

    There are still 3 pieces that are immaculate. I have been raining on these guys the past few weeks trying harder to speed corrosion and some pieces simply will not begin to corrode.

    I am BEYOND impressed!

    I want a CHAMPION already

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2329.jpg
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  62. #62
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    What three are still in the running?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  63. #63
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    Top 3 performers right now are:

    Fluid Film
    Corrosion X
    WD-40 long term corrosion inhibitor

  64. #64
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    Even without a steel frame, it's an interesting test and intriguing that some of the favourite lubes are struggling. Whilst the lowly brother of the often maligned WD-40 is holding up

  65. #65
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    Update:

    The Framesaver treated tube is covered 1/4 with corrosion but still hanging tough.

    While Framesave does not appear to be the best choice overall, it is certainly a GREAT product!

    Sidenote: I have built a little “sweat box” to create a super humid environment. It has been sitting out in the sun and the tubes have been sprayed down multiple times per day.

    Last night i sprayed some battery acid on them, simply because it is taking a lifetime for the leading products to fail.

    This should get interesting #evillaugh

  66. #66
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    2nd update of the day

    Just got home to inspect the tubes after roughly 24hrs of battery acid treatment and HOLY MOTHER! HIGHLY CORROSIVE!

    Enjoy some close up shots of Framesaver fighting to the bitter end!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2461.jpg  

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2460.jpg  

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  67. #67
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    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2463.jpgUpdate #3 today Corrosion X after 24 hours of Battery Acid!
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  68. #68
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    Close up of WD-40 "long term corrosion inhibitor" after 24hrs of battery acid treatment!Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2464-2.jpg
    Mikee Likes It!
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  69. #69
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    Close Up of Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector #5 and Fluid Film #6 after 24 hrs of battery acid treatment


    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2465.jpg
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  70. #70
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    So it looks like Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, Corrosion X HD, and Fluid Film are in the running for the win!

    At this rate we should have a winning product after a few days!
    Mikee Likes It!
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  71. #71
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    Battery acid idea was great! After 2 months of your hard work...you are/have gone beyond any call of duty.

    Spray them down again.

    You should be nominited as poster of the year.

    Thanks.
    "Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway" John Wayne

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADDLE TRAMP View Post
    Battery acid idea was great! After 2 months of your hard work...you are/have gone beyond any call of duty.

    Spray them down again.

    You should be nominited as poster of the year.

    Thanks.
    + 1

  73. #73
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    Ha Thanks Saddle Tramp and PurpleMtnSlayer,

    Long live Chromoly!

  74. #74
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    LPS..used in aviation for decades...
    ..lps spray lube#2 or #3


    https://2ncda71rblfr1j9gym207l85-wpe...06.380.500.jpg


    LPS Labs

  75. #75
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    Thanks FASTFAT!

    Will have to look into this for the 2019 shootout!

  76. #76
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    Framesaver: Today, you have died a graceful death

    48hrs of battery acid

    RIP Framesaver

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2471.jpg
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  77. #77
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    The Final Four!

    CorrosionX HD
    WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor
    Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector
    Fluid Film

    Deathmatch!

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2472.jpg
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  78. #78
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    Very cool seeing the photographic evidence in this little experiment!
    I ride a 26'er with tubes and rim brakes.
    Yeah, I'm basically living in the stone age.

  79. #79
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    Thanks bucksaw87!

    Glad you are enjoying this!

    If anyone has any product recommendations for a 2019 shootout
    do share!

  80. #80
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    3 Days of battery acid

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2490.jpg
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  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeetheviking View Post
    Thanks bucksaw87!

    Glad you are enjoying this!

    If anyone has any product recommendations for a 2019 shootout
    do share!
    I've taken quite an interest in synthetic oils and greases lately, but I'm not sure on the feasibility of studying those like this...If you're interested, I'll share some notes with you on comparisons I've done (as it pertains to Phil Wood vs. a light zinc-based grease...then I've recently begun looking into ceramic and other grease materials)
    I ride a 26'er with tubes and rim brakes.
    Yeah, I'm basically living in the stone age.

  82. #82
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    Hey bucksaw87,

    Yes I am interested in those notes.

    I did do Synthetic vs Conventional oil and grease corrosion testing earlier this year. The results were nearly identical.
    Nothing to write home about. Not what I expected.

  83. #83
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    I did a casual check on youtbube, and the only thing I saw that degraded Fluid Film protection was repeated pressure washing, and the protection was still good, just degraded some.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  84. #84
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    Good to know Canoe!

    Things are still relatively similar with the final four.

    Nothing noteworthy or photoworthy to report this weekend.

  85. #85
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    Note to self: don't ride bikes through battery acid.

    Thanks for taking the time to do this, Mike. It's been interesting and informative.
    There are two types of people in this world:
    1) Those who can extrapolate from incomplete data

  86. #86
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    Ha Thanks chazpat!

    You are welcome!

    Right now I’d be content using any of the “final four” here

    When you order Corrosion X HD and Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal protector the products come in MUCH LARGER aerosol cans in comparison to the other products

    Quantity and Quality

  87. #87
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    Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector, today you have died a graceful death.

    R.I.P.

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2615.jpg
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  88. #88
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    3 can keep a secret if 2 are dead

    The Final Three



    1. Corrosion X HD
    2. WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor
    3. Fluid Film

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2616.jpg
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  89. #89
    Mr. Buck E. Fikes
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    My 2 Karate Monkeys will be around for hundreds of years thanks to the CorrosionX treatment I gave them. I just knew that stuff would be at the top of the list after using it for so many years in extremely inhospitable salty marine environments. No surprises.

    It's been a great test! Fun to watch.

  90. #90
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    Today, Corrosion X HD

    You have died a graceful death

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2671.jpg
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  91. #91
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    Ok guys,

    This is it....

    Our deathmatch has commenced

    Who will survive to tell the tale?

    (shown right)Product #3 WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor

    vs

    (shown left)Product #6 Fluid Film

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2672.jpg
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  92. #92
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    These pics make me glad my main bike is stainless steel.
    You change your own flats? Support your LBS and pay them to instead.

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Volsung View Post
    These pics make me glad my main bike is stainless steel.
    And glad I stopped dipping mine in battery acid...
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  94. #94
    Mr. Buck E. Fikes
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    I call foul. It ain't over till it topples over!

  95. #95
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    Today you, WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor have died a most gracious death. Well done. Well done.

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2683.jpg
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  96. #96
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    Ladies & Gentlemen

    I give to you, the winner of the 2018 Anti-Corrosion Product Shootout

    Product#6

    Fluid Film

    Anti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2685.jpgAnti-Corrosion product shootout!-img_2684.jpg
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  97. #97
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    Final thoughts,

    The Surly recommended Boeshield T-9 or Framesaver are the last products I would choose to treat a frame.

    Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector and Corrosion X HD are the "best bang for the buck" Sold in BIG cans

    WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor and Fluid film are sold in small cans. Maybe they offer larger cans?
    But these 2 products outshine the rest

    I was surprised by every outcome of this project.

    I will be treating my new Waltworks frame with Fluid Film!

  98. #98
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    EPIC thread.

    Good work OP

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeetheviking View Post
    Final thoughts,

    The Surly recommended Boeshield T-9 or Framesaver are the last products I would choose to treat a frame.

    Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector and Corrosion X HD are the "best bang for the buck" Sold in BIG cans

    WD-40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor and Fluid film are sold in small cans. Maybe they offer larger cans?
    But these 2 products outshines the rest

    I was surprised by every outcome of this project.

    I will be treating my new Waltworks frame with Fluid Film!
    Question for you about that Boeshield:
    My favorite LPTS (local power tool store) sells Boeshield T-9 right alongside the tablesaws, drill presses, miter saws, and circular saws for use as a protectant on the sliding surfaces of each tool. They've always extolled the virtues of T-9 as leaving a light film, but not messing with the wood you're working on. Have you tried any of your products on power tools at all? Do they work as well as T-9 is purported to in that setting?
    I ride a 26'er with tubes and rim brakes.
    Yeah, I'm basically living in the stone age.

  100. #100
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    Hey Bucksaw87,

    I cannot speak to these applications.

    However I do see Boeshield being ideal for this and countless other applications.

    Boeshield is a very “clean to work with product”

    I will continue to buy and use Boeshield.

    Just won’t use it in a frame

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