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  1. #1
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    Aluminum fat fork for dyno hub (100mm)?

    The use for this build is a fatbike and packraft expedition. Because of extended fresh and saltwater exposure, I don't want to use steel (corrosion). Unfortunately, dyno hubs only come in 100mm widths.

    Is there a 100mm aluminum fatty fork out there that I'm missing?

    At this point, my only non-steel option seems to be the Black Sheep Ti fork, but I'm not in any hurry to pony up $550 for a fork.
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  2. #2
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    If you are worried about the fork rusting all to pieces how are you going to keep the dynohub corrosion free? You can framesaver a steel fork which should get it to last for the length of the trip.
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  3. #3
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    Frank the Welder might build you a custom fork, I know he's built some aluminum forks in the past. The only production aluminum fat fork I know of is the 135 mm 907 (in fact, it's the only aluminum fat fork that I know of at all).

  4. #4
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    I agree... for some components, there is no perfect solution. All I can do is minimize overall risk on a per-component basis.

    Thank you for the suggestion. After living on a boat with a bike for almost 4 years, I've developed an increased skepticism form films and coatings. Despite the added expense, the Ti fork better fits my risk tolerance.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    I agree... for some components, there is no perfect solution. All I can do is minimize overall risk on a per-component basis.

    Thank you for the suggestion. After living on a boat with a bike for almost 4 years, I've developed an increased skepticism form films and coatings. Despite the added expense, the Ti fork better fits my risk tolerance.
    I guess where I was coming from is that the fork is a very robust item. If it is starting out new it will most likely last the length of the trip even without coating. The Dynohub is a more delicate item. One dunking when on the raft and it could be toast. I am only speculating here since I don't have one. Maybe it is very easy to clean out. If you"ve used one in the type of conditions you will face and are confident in it's ability to handle the conditions then go for it. You might talk to Billy at Arctic Cycles as he uses Dynohubs on fatbikes. Arctic Cycles - Home Page
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  6. #6
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    Spend $70 on a Pugs fork. If you're really starting in late March, it's still going to be months until the fork sees salt *water*. It'll way outlast the trip, and with the money saved (vs the ti fork) you can afford to buy 7 more of them to replace this one when it dies in a few years.

  7. #7
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    FWIW Fatback has a 135 aluminum fork.


    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    The only production aluminum fat fork I know of is the 135 mm 907 (in fact, it's the only aluminum fat fork that I know of at all).
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  8. #8
    is buachail foighneach me
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    Southern route Iditarod trail from Shageluk to Knik in the summer????

  9. #9
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    Swampy Impossible Slog...

    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    Southern route Iditarod trail from Shageluk to Knik in the summer????
    That map isn't totally accurate, but yeah... that section is definitely my biggest concern route-wise. It's like a gnawing black hole in my brain actually. I'm looking for a better way to connect from the Yukon River back east, and am happy to entertain suggestions.
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  10. #10
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    Sorry a little off topic but.....DUDE YOUR NUTS!. Actually very excited to see how this turns out, good luck and best wishes.

    Oh yeah Mikesee is spot on!
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  11. #11
    is buachail foighneach me
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    Is paddling up the Yukon an option? Ruby to Mcgrath would a less impossible route from the Yukon to the Kusko. McGrath to Nikolai would be upriver as well, unless you could somehow piece together an overland route. I've heard the Nikolai locals travel at least part of the way through the farewell burn in the summer, so that should be manageable. It'll be difficult to get from Rohn to Puntilla, but theoretically doable. The water all flows downhill at varying rates from there.

  12. #12
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    Fatback has a carbon fork too…expensive but robust. Why don't you use a good quality grease for the hubs and change it out immediately your done your trip? Either way the hub is gonna be exposed to some harsh elements

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Sorry a little off topic but.....DUDE YOUR NUTS!. Actually very excited to see how this turns out, good luck and best wishes.

    Oh yeah Mikesee is spot on!
    I can't disagree. Thanks!

    No worries about being off-topic at this point. I'm pretty sure the answer to the original question about 100mm AL fatty forks is no. That's fine, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing one.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesilversurfer View Post
    Fatback has a carbon fork too…expensive but robust.
    My interpretation is that Fatback pretty much has a 170mm rear, 135mm front philosophy. I don't think they make their fork in anything but 135. I suspect that it also has steel inserts at the dropouts; in which case it wouldn't be a big improvement over the Pugs fork functionally (in this context at least).
    Global Zero Fuel Expeditions. Sail. Bike. Paddle. Hike. 77Zero.

  15. #15
    is buachail foighneach me
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    FWIW, you can see a good portion of the trail, in summer, from Shageluk toward Iditarod, on google maps sattelite imagery. Bear in mind that looking at it from space and seeing it on the ground are two very different things.

  16. #16
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    ...there are a couple of portages between the Yukon and Kuskokwim, but I believe they are much further down river from where you are looking to cross...the portages (from my understanding) are sections of wooden "rails" with "trolleys" that connect the ponds on the overland routes...these allowed those inclined to trolly their boats from pond to pond thereby getting overland from river to river...My understanding is they were built by the feds back in maybe the 60's or 70"s? and some sections have been burned...the only ones that I know of that might be any use to you is somewhere in the vicinity of Kalskag or maybe one near Aniak...
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  17. #17
    is buachail foighneach me
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    I read somewhere that there were some pre-hippies that actually started building a railroad toward Iditarod from the Holy Cross area in the first half of the last century. That's all I know about it, but I would love to someday see the remnants, if any exist. I have a few structures and what appear to be old roads mapped out on google earth in the area east of Holy Cross/Shageluk that I think would be sweet to check out one day.

  18. #18
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    What is your route between the Yukon/NWT? It looks like the Nahanni Range Road on your map, unless you were thinking of trying the Canol Road?

  19. #19
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    Anybody know of a Black Sheep Ti 100mm (fat) for sale? 907 has no stock on 100s.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnitman View Post
    ...there are a couple of portages between the Yukon and Kuskokwim, but I believe they are much further down river from where you are looking to cross... somewhere in the vicinity of Kalskag or maybe one near Aniak...
    Indeed. One of the maps shows a portage from the Yukon to Aniak. I think it's a USGS topo that may be somewhat dated. In any case, yeah... that puts me way too far south and west to get back across the Alaska range.
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  21. #21
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    Like MC said, I'd just go with the Surly fork. It's not going anywhere. The water will probably kill dyno hub long before the fork even starts to think about it's demise.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearbait View Post
    Like MC said, I'd just go with the Surly fork. It's not going anywhere. The water will probably kill dyno hub long before the fork even starts to think about it's demise.
    This wasn't my initial concern, but it appears the Pugs fork is a non-trivial full pound heavier. I'm not a fan of shaving grams and compromising structural integrity, or paying 5x as much for titanium to save 20% in weight. But when we're talking a 500 gram (45%) difference in one component, you have my attention.

    Unless something magically changes, this is a moot point since I can't get a Black Sheep fork anyway.

    Unlike other fat bike components where fatter/heavier = better, there appears to be nothing in the positive column for the Pugs fork other than price/availability. Well... I guess some Surly steel might boost my hipster cred at coffee shops across Portland, but I already have a beard, flannel, and PBR...
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  23. #23
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    are you doing solar backup? While I hear what you are saying (on the kickstarter page), for most of your trip, the sun will be up well past 12 hours, and despite the lower angle is very reliable. In looking at the project, it looks like you put a lot of faith in the hub making the trip, and that is the element I would have serious concerns over.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombinate View Post
    are you doing solar backup? While I hear what you are saying (on the kickstarter page), for most of your trip, the sun will be up well past 12 hours, and despite the lower angle is very reliable. In looking at the project, it looks like you put a lot of faith in the hub making the trip, and that is the element I would have serious concerns over.
    Yup, I have some Goal Zero solar stuff. It's good to hear that it's reliable, but I still have some concerns about the power output for the sat phone. I'm still experimenting with charging it, and don't have all the numbers hammered out yet.

    I hear what multiple people have said about the hub. Unfortunately, this isn't an upgrade this or that situation; it's an upgrade everything situation. All potential points of failure are probabilistic in nature, and reducing the probability of failure on each component reduces the probability in aggregate. By all accounts the SON28 hub is the most bulletproof dynohub out there. The new Supernova stuff might be good, but it's still vaporware afaik. Even when it does come out, it will be a wild card until a bunch of people have had months to beat up on it. There is no potential hub upgrade or I'd consider it. It is what it is.

    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    ... for some components, there is no perfect solution. All I can do is minimize overall risk on a per-component basis.
    Last edited by 77Zero; 03-04-2012 at 11:54 AM.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    This wasn't my initial concern, but it appears the Pugs fork is a non-trivial full pound heavier. I'm not a fan of shaving grams and compromising structural integrity, or paying 5x as much for titanium to save 20% in weight. But when we're talking a 500 gram (45%) difference in one component, you have my attention.

    Unless something magically changes, this is a moot point since I can't get a Black Sheep fork anyway.

    Unlike other fat bike components where fatter/heavier = better, there appears to be nothing in the positive column for the Pugs fork other than price/availability. Well... I guess some Surly steel might boost my hipster cred at coffee shops across Portland, but I already have a beard, flannel, and PBR...
    Worried about a pound?

    Ditch the silly dyno hub and all the BS that goes with it. Replace with a flat panel solar charger.

    No one's suggested anything better than the Pugs fork because there isn't anything better unless you want custom. Want custom? Super--all you gotta do is pay for it.

    Taking potshots (like the hipster you are?) at those whom are sincerely attempting to suggest solutions to you is probably not the cleanest line. Especially when you're trying to get others to pay for your vacation.

    Don't want to hear answers that don't fit with your MO?

    Stop asking out loud.

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