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  1. #1
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    Aluminum fat fork for dyno hub (100mm)?

    The use for this build is a fatbike and packraft expedition. Because of extended fresh and saltwater exposure, I don't want to use steel (corrosion). Unfortunately, dyno hubs only come in 100mm widths.

    Is there a 100mm aluminum fatty fork out there that I'm missing?

    At this point, my only non-steel option seems to be the Black Sheep Ti fork, but I'm not in any hurry to pony up $550 for a fork.
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  2. #2
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    If you are worried about the fork rusting all to pieces how are you going to keep the dynohub corrosion free? You can framesaver a steel fork which should get it to last for the length of the trip.
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  3. #3
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    Frank the Welder might build you a custom fork, I know he's built some aluminum forks in the past. The only production aluminum fat fork I know of is the 135 mm 907 (in fact, it's the only aluminum fat fork that I know of at all).

  4. #4
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    I agree... for some components, there is no perfect solution. All I can do is minimize overall risk on a per-component basis.

    Thank you for the suggestion. After living on a boat with a bike for almost 4 years, I've developed an increased skepticism form films and coatings. Despite the added expense, the Ti fork better fits my risk tolerance.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    I agree... for some components, there is no perfect solution. All I can do is minimize overall risk on a per-component basis.

    Thank you for the suggestion. After living on a boat with a bike for almost 4 years, I've developed an increased skepticism form films and coatings. Despite the added expense, the Ti fork better fits my risk tolerance.
    I guess where I was coming from is that the fork is a very robust item. If it is starting out new it will most likely last the length of the trip even without coating. The Dynohub is a more delicate item. One dunking when on the raft and it could be toast. I am only speculating here since I don't have one. Maybe it is very easy to clean out. If you"ve used one in the type of conditions you will face and are confident in it's ability to handle the conditions then go for it. You might talk to Billy at Arctic Cycles as he uses Dynohubs on fatbikes. Arctic Cycles - Home Page
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  6. #6
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    Spend $70 on a Pugs fork. If you're really starting in late March, it's still going to be months until the fork sees salt *water*. It'll way outlast the trip, and with the money saved (vs the ti fork) you can afford to buy 7 more of them to replace this one when it dies in a few years.

  7. #7
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    FWIW Fatback has a 135 aluminum fork.


    Quote Originally Posted by Andy FitzGibbon View Post
    The only production aluminum fat fork I know of is the 135 mm 907 (in fact, it's the only aluminum fat fork that I know of at all).
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  8. #8
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    Southern route Iditarod trail from Shageluk to Knik in the summer????

  9. #9
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    Swampy Impossible Slog...

    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    Southern route Iditarod trail from Shageluk to Knik in the summer????
    That map isn't totally accurate, but yeah... that section is definitely my biggest concern route-wise. It's like a gnawing black hole in my brain actually. I'm looking for a better way to connect from the Yukon River back east, and am happy to entertain suggestions.
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  10. #10
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    Sorry a little off topic but.....DUDE YOUR NUTS!. Actually very excited to see how this turns out, good luck and best wishes.

    Oh yeah Mikesee is spot on!

  11. #11
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    Is paddling up the Yukon an option? Ruby to Mcgrath would a less impossible route from the Yukon to the Kusko. McGrath to Nikolai would be upriver as well, unless you could somehow piece together an overland route. I've heard the Nikolai locals travel at least part of the way through the farewell burn in the summer, so that should be manageable. It'll be difficult to get from Rohn to Puntilla, but theoretically doable. The water all flows downhill at varying rates from there.

  12. #12
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    Fatback has a carbon fork too…expensive but robust. Why don't you use a good quality grease for the hubs and change it out immediately your done your trip? Either way the hub is gonna be exposed to some harsh elements

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Sorry a little off topic but.....DUDE YOUR NUTS!. Actually very excited to see how this turns out, good luck and best wishes.

    Oh yeah Mikesee is spot on!
    I can't disagree. Thanks!

    No worries about being off-topic at this point. I'm pretty sure the answer to the original question about 100mm AL fatty forks is no. That's fine, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing one.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesilversurfer View Post
    Fatback has a carbon fork too…expensive but robust.
    My interpretation is that Fatback pretty much has a 170mm rear, 135mm front philosophy. I don't think they make their fork in anything but 135. I suspect that it also has steel inserts at the dropouts; in which case it wouldn't be a big improvement over the Pugs fork functionally (in this context at least).
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  15. #15
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    FWIW, you can see a good portion of the trail, in summer, from Shageluk toward Iditarod, on google maps sattelite imagery. Bear in mind that looking at it from space and seeing it on the ground are two very different things.

  16. #16
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    ...there are a couple of portages between the Yukon and Kuskokwim, but I believe they are much further down river from where you are looking to cross...the portages (from my understanding) are sections of wooden "rails" with "trolleys" that connect the ponds on the overland routes...these allowed those inclined to trolly their boats from pond to pond thereby getting overland from river to river...My understanding is they were built by the feds back in maybe the 60's or 70"s? and some sections have been burned...the only ones that I know of that might be any use to you is somewhere in the vicinity of Kalskag or maybe one near Aniak...
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  17. #17
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    I read somewhere that there were some pre-hippies that actually started building a railroad toward Iditarod from the Holy Cross area in the first half of the last century. That's all I know about it, but I would love to someday see the remnants, if any exist. I have a few structures and what appear to be old roads mapped out on google earth in the area east of Holy Cross/Shageluk that I think would be sweet to check out one day.

  18. #18
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    What is your route between the Yukon/NWT? It looks like the Nahanni Range Road on your map, unless you were thinking of trying the Canol Road?

  19. #19
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    Anybody know of a Black Sheep Ti 100mm (fat) for sale? 907 has no stock on 100s.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnitman View Post
    ...there are a couple of portages between the Yukon and Kuskokwim, but I believe they are much further down river from where you are looking to cross... somewhere in the vicinity of Kalskag or maybe one near Aniak...
    Indeed. One of the maps shows a portage from the Yukon to Aniak. I think it's a USGS topo that may be somewhat dated. In any case, yeah... that puts me way too far south and west to get back across the Alaska range.
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  21. #21
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    Like MC said, I'd just go with the Surly fork. It's not going anywhere. The water will probably kill dyno hub long before the fork even starts to think about it's demise.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearbait View Post
    Like MC said, I'd just go with the Surly fork. It's not going anywhere. The water will probably kill dyno hub long before the fork even starts to think about it's demise.
    This wasn't my initial concern, but it appears the Pugs fork is a non-trivial full pound heavier. I'm not a fan of shaving grams and compromising structural integrity, or paying 5x as much for titanium to save 20% in weight. But when we're talking a 500 gram (45%) difference in one component, you have my attention.

    Unless something magically changes, this is a moot point since I can't get a Black Sheep fork anyway.

    Unlike other fat bike components where fatter/heavier = better, there appears to be nothing in the positive column for the Pugs fork other than price/availability. Well... I guess some Surly steel might boost my hipster cred at coffee shops across Portland, but I already have a beard, flannel, and PBR...
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    are you doing solar backup? While I hear what you are saying (on the kickstarter page), for most of your trip, the sun will be up well past 12 hours, and despite the lower angle is very reliable. In looking at the project, it looks like you put a lot of faith in the hub making the trip, and that is the element I would have serious concerns over.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombinate View Post
    are you doing solar backup? While I hear what you are saying (on the kickstarter page), for most of your trip, the sun will be up well past 12 hours, and despite the lower angle is very reliable. In looking at the project, it looks like you put a lot of faith in the hub making the trip, and that is the element I would have serious concerns over.
    Yup, I have some Goal Zero solar stuff. It's good to hear that it's reliable, but I still have some concerns about the power output for the sat phone. I'm still experimenting with charging it, and don't have all the numbers hammered out yet.

    I hear what multiple people have said about the hub. Unfortunately, this isn't an upgrade this or that situation; it's an upgrade everything situation. All potential points of failure are probabilistic in nature, and reducing the probability of failure on each component reduces the probability in aggregate. By all accounts the SON28 hub is the most bulletproof dynohub out there. The new Supernova stuff might be good, but it's still vaporware afaik. Even when it does come out, it will be a wild card until a bunch of people have had months to beat up on it. There is no potential hub upgrade or I'd consider it. It is what it is.

    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    ... for some components, there is no perfect solution. All I can do is minimize overall risk on a per-component basis.
    Last edited by 77Zero; 03-04-2012 at 10:54 AM.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    This wasn't my initial concern, but it appears the Pugs fork is a non-trivial full pound heavier. I'm not a fan of shaving grams and compromising structural integrity, or paying 5x as much for titanium to save 20% in weight. But when we're talking a 500 gram (45%) difference in one component, you have my attention.

    Unless something magically changes, this is a moot point since I can't get a Black Sheep fork anyway.

    Unlike other fat bike components where fatter/heavier = better, there appears to be nothing in the positive column for the Pugs fork other than price/availability. Well... I guess some Surly steel might boost my hipster cred at coffee shops across Portland, but I already have a beard, flannel, and PBR...
    Worried about a pound?

    Ditch the silly dyno hub and all the BS that goes with it. Replace with a flat panel solar charger.

    No one's suggested anything better than the Pugs fork because there isn't anything better unless you want custom. Want custom? Super--all you gotta do is pay for it.

    Taking potshots (like the hipster you are?) at those whom are sincerely attempting to suggest solutions to you is probably not the cleanest line. Especially when you're trying to get others to pay for your vacation.

    Don't want to hear answers that don't fit with your MO?

    Stop asking out loud.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Worried about a pound?

    Ditch the silly dyno hub and all the BS that goes with it. Replace with a flat panel solar charger.

    No one's suggested anything better than the Pugs fork because there isn't anything better unless you want custom. Want custom? Super--all you gotta do is pay for it.

    Taking potshots (like the hipster you are?) at those whom are sincerely attempting to suggest solutions to you is probably not the cleanest line. Especially when you're trying to get others to pay for your vacation.

    Don't want to hear answers that don't fit with your MO?

    Stop asking out loud.
    Mike, I appreciated your perspective at first. But with all due respect, I didn't ask out loud if I should use the Puglsey fork. I didn't ask if I should use a dynohub. I didn't ask if anyone approved of my MO. I didn't ask if the expedition is smart or reasonable or possible. In the OP I simply and specifically said I didn't want to use the Pugsley fork -- for completely logical reasons.

    Q: I have parameters X and Y. What can I use that isn't the Puglesy fork?
    A: The Pugsley fork.

    What kind of bizarro world is this where you're getting defensive because you've answered a question I didn't ask, and then tell me not to ask the question you answered without me having asked it? I can't answer that, but you essentially advising me to stfu while using words like "silly" and "vacation" might be a hint that it has nothing to do with metallurgy.

    Nobody has offered a single reason why the Black Sheep fork is not technically a better option than the Puglsey fork across multiple axes. Other than the recent news that availability is a problem, down-selling to the Surly fork is irrational except from a simple cost perspective.

    Pay for my vacation? I'm sorry, but you really don't get it, and I find this animosity strange.

    Ah come on, man. The hipster thing was a harmless joke... a self-deprecating one at that. Even if you didn't think it was funny, there's no reason to make it into something it's not by twisting it into a "pot shot".

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    Last edited by 77Zero; 03-04-2012 at 10:48 AM.
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  27. #27
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    77Zero your first post was I don't want to use a steel fork due to corrosion issues, when people said why that was sort of your only option and that corrosion shouldn't really be that big a deal you just kept saying but I don't want to use a Pugsley fork without stating any other reasons. That is certainly your right but since you didn't bring up weight till sort of late in the conversation I can understand why some off us got a little surly.
    All that said give Speedway a call they have a box of takeoff forks in the back room. A couple of months ago they had some 100mm steel (I know bad) Switchblade forks that are way lighter than a Pugs fork. They may have even had an old 100mm Ti fork. They might have something that will work for you.
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  28. #28
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    Triton Bikes, a Russian company, can and will build you a ti fork. They've got a fairly solid reputation in the biketrials community last I checked.

    Triton Bikes - f.a.q.

    Does your sat phone have a usb charging option? These work well in a pinch, and the flashlight is actually pretty bright. Solid construction.

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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    give Speedway a call they have a box of takeoff forks in the back room... They may have even had an old 100mm Ti fork. They might have something that will work for you.
    Thank you. Will do.

    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    Triton Bikes, a Russian company, can and will build you a ti fork. They've got a fairly solid reputation in the biketrials community last I checked.

    Triton Bikes - f.a.q.
    Cool. Their prices are relatively reasonable. This prevents me from using them, but I'll consider them in the future: "Update: Due to inflow of orders and the temporary lack of raw materials the current wait time is 3-4 months."

    Quote Originally Posted by sean salach View Post
    Does your sat phone have a usb charging option? These work well in a pinch, and the flashlight is actually pretty bright. Solid construction.

    Product Card
    It doesn't. It has a USB connector that can be connected for data transfer, but doesn't seem to have charging capability through the port. Unless their engineers were just asleep that day, I'd guess the batteries require juice above the USB spec. I don't have it in my hands yet, and I'm having a hard time finding the actual charging spec. That could mean it requires something like 8V, but not at particularly high current; in which case it would be fine with a bit of conversion. It has a 12V adapter, but I'm not sure what the actual amperage needs to be once the Watt/Volt equation is resolved.

    The Goal Zero Guide 10 states a .5A max output from the batteries. The max output straight off the panel at 100% sunlight is 1A.

    The dynohub throws off about .9A @ 25 km/h and 1.2A @ 30 km/h.

    I have no solid data on how much power the 7V Goal Zero panel is going to crank out at high latitudes.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Aluminum fat fork for dyno hub (100mm)?-iridium-base.png  

    Last edited by 77Zero; 03-15-2012 at 11:45 AM. Reason: math problem problem
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    ...you just kept saying but I don't want to use a Pugsley fork without stating any other reasons...
    Perhaps I was remiss in not addressing this some weeks ago, but it didn't seem important to debate at the time. The question of corrosion in this environment over this duration is an empirical one. That's sort of a good thing, but it's not an experiment I want to subject myself to and come out on the wrong side of if I can avoid it. I have not been sufficiently convinced that corrosion is a non-issue in this context.

    Having lived on a boat with a bike since 2008, and riding in coastal areas regularly, I am not at all confident in steel. I'm not being arbitrarily capricious. Every steel component seems to start disintegrating in about two weeks... sometimes sooner. Despite images of the Arctic that many people imagine, saltwater will be in liquid form for a significant part of the trip. Not counting my departure from a coastal town, it's not unlikely that six months will pass between the first and last time I'll be exposed to liquid sea water. I'll be exposed to a combination of fresh water and wet, salty roads from day 1 to the end.

    It's probable that I'll be stuck with steel at this point. Input saying I probably won't have significant problems with steel is reassuring, but I still don't consider it an optimal solution.
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  31. #31
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    I have two SON dynos and neither has flinched though they have lived outside in Bethel for three years...now comfortably resting in the downstairs living room of my house off Lake Otis...my biggest concern would not be the durability, but truly the usability...if riding, even at slow speeds, totally usable...but at slow walking speeds...honestly a bit less suitable, especially if bushwackin...even an E3 pro flickers a bit when pushing supersoft (i.e. super slow SLOW) trails...
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnitman View Post
    I have two SON dynos and neither has flinched though they have lived outside in Bethel for three years...now comfortably resting in the downstairs living room of my house off Lake Otis...my biggest concern would not be the durability, but truly the usability...if riding, even at slow speeds, totally usable...but at slow walking speeds...honestly a bit less suitable, especially if bushwackin...
    Good points. And I'm sure I'll be pushing a lot more than I'd like.

    Looks like the Supernova Infinity 8 is due to hit the market in 10-14 days.

    The unwanted drag when the generator is running idle can be mechanically switched off by twisting the waterproof and easy-to-use dial wheel on its side. Simply release the power of the hub whenever you need it. This saves pedalling power by transforming the dynamo into a smoothly-running front hub.
    In addition to the zero resistance mode, it looks pretty well thought out for getting wet:
    • *Salt water resistant protective anodization
    • *Corrosion resistant gold-plated connectors
    • *Aluminum axle


    This will be worth a serious look. Since it was so far over the horizon when I first started this process, I didn't look closely enough at it to notice all of the water-friendly design features. If it came in a 135 width, it might be the fatbike dynamo holy grail.
    Last edited by 77Zero; 03-04-2012 at 09:38 PM.
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    IRD makes a dynamo hub with a clutch as well. Don't know how the sealing, ect. is though.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    "Update: Due to inflow of orders and the temporary lack of raw materials the current wait time is 3-4 months."

    Ooops, I have just updated that. We now have the tubes in stock:
    Triton Bikes - The tubing arrived! YESSS

    But the wait time is still about 3-4 months.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    It doesn't. It has a USB connector that can be connected for data transfer, but doesn't seem to have charging capability through the port. Unless their engineers were just asleep that day, I'd guess the batteries require juice above the USB spec. I don't have it in my hands yet, and I'm having a hard time finding the actual charging spec. That could mean it requires something like 8V, but not at particularly high current; in which case it would be fine with a bit of conversion. It has a 12V adapter, but I'm not sure what the actual amperage needs to be once the Watt/Volt equation is resolved.

    The Goal Zero Guide 10 states a .5A max output from the batteries. The max output straight off the panel at 100% sunlight is 1A.

    The dynohub throws off about .9A @ 25 km/h and 1.2A @ 30 km/h.

    If the sat phone batteries only require .5A, I should be good charging off solar, and the dynohub as low as 9 km/h. If it's closer to the 1A range, I'm gonna have some serious limitations. I have no solid data on how much power the 7V Goal Zero panel is going to crank out at high latitudes.
    Want to charge USB devices when the sun isn't shining? Perhaps consider something like the BioLite stove (assuming it turns out to be a reliable technology.)

    Back to the original topic, it's unclear to me whether you have any experience with what can happen when a dynohub fails. Not only might you lose power generation capability, but you could also lose the capacity for forward motion. The armature is securely fastened to the axle, and if it self-destructs, there is a chance that the hub will just stop moving freely. Not a big deal in the urban environment for which these hubs were designed, but I don't see much in the way of urban areas on your map. As much as I love, love, love dynohubs (and I have four of them), I'd be very reluctant to use one on an expedition-type ride like you are planning.

    If you're dead set on mechanical generation, I'd be more inclined to go with something that could be disengaged from the drivetrain...bottle, bottom bracket or one of those Farraday types that attaches to the spokes.

    Now if you'll excuse me, my Cross Check and I have an appointment with some PBR.

  36. #36
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    Dammitman hints at another question - will the dyno still give you juice to charge your stuff at pushing speeds (2mph)?
    or more optimistically, gravel bar riding speed (4ish mph)
    Once you leave the Beaufort I think that's all it's going to see.

  37. #37
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    With between 12-24 hours of daylight, depending on the month and latitude, it seems to me that solar makes a hell of a lot more sense.

    Some friends of mine did a greenland expedition and they charged GPS, sat phone, PDA, still and video cameras off solar. Whatever technology you're trying to power I'm sure it can be done.

  38. #38
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    The general idea is to use solar as much as possible, and supplement with dyno. There are some parts that include long stretches of road/trail riding where solar will not be optimal due to tree cover and winding roads that will drop its efficiency below minimum charging thresholds for any of the gear.

    Choosing between dyno and solar does not get me where I need to be for the variety of places I'll be. Solar may be better generally speaking, but it's not a universal solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by anthony.delorenzo View Post
    friends of mine did a greenland expedition and they charged GPS, sat phone, PDA, still and video cameras off solar. Whatever technology you're trying to power I'm sure it can be done.
    The solar panel they used is 26W compared to what I can carry at about 7W. That array has 4x as many individual panels (and commensurate power output), and measures 21.5" x 37.5" when unfolded. That's great if you have the space and time to spread it out, and multiple people to distribute group gear.

    There is a compromise between the two that I have considered. It's exactly double what I currently have: Goal Zero Nomad 13.5. If my tests fail with the current setup, I may upgrade. The smaller version works great for everything else, and there's no sense doubling the solar for one piece of gear unless I absolutely have to.

    This is the 4 panel version (imagine the brunton 8 panel on a pack). More panels sounds great, but in this configuration, efficiency is going to be significantly reduced in any panel that isn't at a perfect angle. Just having the additional surface area isn't good enough, you have to be able to use it in such a way to take advantage enough to offset the extra weight.
    Last edited by 77Zero; 03-15-2012 at 11:31 AM. Reason: math problem problem
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearbait View Post
    will the dyno still give you juice to charge your stuff at pushing speeds (2mph)?
    or more optimistically, gravel bar riding speed (4ish mph)
    Once you leave the Beaufort I think that's all it's going to see.
    at 2 there will probably be nothing. at 4 it might trickle charge some AAs. since they're only 1.5V individually, they're a little easier to charge than 5V li-on stuff that charges via USB.

    This wouldn't be hard to test if I had a fork that I could fit my tire in.

    (Pugs forks are delayed by QBP/Surly to LBS, and Speedway isn't open yet today.)
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  40. #40
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    If you are planning to use a dynohub, you might consider going with a Schmidt, which have a reputation as being the most reliable. In particular, I would avoid the Shimano hubs, which tend to fail at a higher rate. Check out this thread from the RBW list about a failing DH-72:

    The failures begin with what sounds like "Chunk." The hubs are not "completely" serviceable, the inside component can be removed from the hub if the adjustable bearings on the one side are removed. In the hubs that I have had fail, the cause has seemed to be the magnets of the core coming in contact with the shell somehow. Once it seems to occur, the hubs disintegrate rather quickly. It's not a catastrophic failure, the wheel continues to roll (with significant increase in resistance) and makes A LOT of noise.
    A "significant increase in resistance" doesn't sound like something I'd like to have on a long wilderness ride.

    How much you want to bet that corrosion in the armature winding pushes the magnets into the shell?

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MauricioB View Post
    If you are planning to use a dynohub, you might consider going with a Schmidt, which have a reputation as being the most reliable.
    Yeah, I have a Schmidt... the "new" SON28.

  42. #42
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    No dice w/ Speedway. Said they're pretty much an all 135mm operation at this point.

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    Tested: The Iridium Extreme sat phone charges fine with the Goal Zero 7W panel.

    Phone charger - Output: 6V / 850mA (5.1W). It looks like the USB charging spec maxes out at about 2.5W, which probably explains why the mini USB port doesn't have charging capabilities.

    No such luck with the Iridium AxcessPoint (WiFi hotspot).

    AxcessPoint charger - Output: 5V / 3A (15W). Even the next size up in solar panels (13.5W) wouldn't cut it unless the input on the device isn't picky.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 77Zero View Post
    ...AxcessPoint charger - Output: 5V / 3A (15W). Even the next size up in solar panels (13.5W) wouldn't cut it unless the input on the device isn't picky.
    The input power doesn't have to be the maximum allowed, if the panel is 1/3 of max allowed input power, expect a 3x charging time. Just be sure the voltage is the same.

    Official USB spec is 5V/500mA but the wall warts with USB jack are usually 5V/1A. Today in the lab my customer's IBM labtop was good for 850mA, we were surprised, USB spec says if 500mA is exceed the USB port should shut down.

  45. #45
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    the resolution to the fork question is in my main build thread. que sera.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by pursuiter View Post
    Today in the lab my customer's IBM labtop was good for 850mA, we were surprised, USB spec says if 500mA is exceed the USB port should shut down.
    I think the updated USB spec allows for 1000mA. There may also be a specific "charging only" spec that I may be confusing that with.
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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnitman View Post
    ...my biggest concern would not be the durability, but truly the usability...if riding, even at slow speeds, totally usable...but at slow walking speeds...honestly a bit less suitable, especially if bushwackin...even an E3 pro flickers a bit when pushing supersoft (i.e. super slow SLOW) trails...
    i can't feel any SON28 resistance in the hub at all even when pushing super slow on flat ground and paying close attention. the only times i can sense any resistance are when trying to turn the axle by hand, and when spinning the wheel in the air with no other friction -- even then it's only noticeable right before the wheel stops spinning...something like .2 mph.
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  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by donkey View Post
    Well.....anyone know how this is going for him......he should be roughly a month and a half into his journey at this point.

    B
    massive delays. chaos. the timeline for the route is extra double with whip cream on top jammed up now. i'm pretty much packed up. plan is to leave tomorrow morning.

    the show channel hasn't been redone yet, but i'm doing a web series for the expedition with PBS. the episodes will have about a 3 week delay from shooting, but it will be another way to keep tabs for those not into twitter.
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  49. #49
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    Well.....anyone know how this is going for him......he should be roughly a month and a half into his journey at this point.

    B
    www.thepathbikeshop.com

  50. #50
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    was just wondering if you have tried to get someone to lay up a carbon fork with ti dropouts, would seem with all the carbon stuff on the market today someone could make just what you want in a short period of time?

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