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Thread: 170mm v 190mm

  1. #1
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    170mm v 190mm

    Which is better? It looks like the main difference is 190's ability to fit the Lou tire. Is that good enough for a whole new size? Any thoughts?
    --Peace

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    Just ordered a 190......

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    190, Mine is on it's way!

  4. #4
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    I think 190mm is the future regardless of choosing to run 4 or 5 inch tires, why shortchange your purchasing decision if you ever get to urge to run 5 inch tires.

  5. #5
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    I flipped my 170mm frame before I attached a single part to it. My 190mm frame is on it's way.
    I like turtles

  6. #6
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    I've got a 165 Ti Fatback and I'm not buying anything till the dust settles
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    As I was choosing my first fatty - it seemed a no brainer to go 190 since I want to play in the snow and have as many wheel size options as possible. Waiting on a 9zero7

  8. #8
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    My next fatbike will be 190mm.
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  9. #9
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    Seems like it's going to be 135/135 or 135/190 from here on out.

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    190 on the way. 9 zero 7

  11. #11
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    Sold my 170mm to buy a 190mm.
    The LPG

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    Fat and Fatter

    I like both 170 and 190. 190 for maximum float and 170 for maximum speed. Were I live there are lots of rock's, root's and off camber section on the trails and the wider bb and rear end of a 190 bike is a handicap for three season riding.

    Steven
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoo View Post
    I like both 170 and 190. 190 for maximum float and 170 for maximum speed. Were I live there are lots of rock's, root's and off camber section on the trails and the wider bb and rear end of a 190 bike is a handicap for three season riding.

    Steven
    You think? It's only 20mm difference in the rear.
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  14. #14
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    ...Isn't the C-BG 142/190?

    edit- from 2014 Beargrease XX1 | Bikes | Salsa Cycles
    "142mm Fork Spacing
    Equivalent to 135mm front spacing, but with convenient hub catches that make wheel removal/installation easier"

    ...not quite sure what that "Equivalent" means, but I'm guessing the two are not interchangeable...
    Last edited by damnitman; 09-19-2013 at 12:43 AM.
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    190 is rapidly becoming the new industry standard. We've got 350g 190mm hubs in the works now, so all our models, possibly including the new 24'' models will be 190mm for MY14.
    Espen Wethe
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    I know, it is only 10mm per side but in my experience it can be a problem. Traveling at speed on a narrow rock strewn off camber trail on the side of a steep hill, one pedal strike could send you careening down the hill in the wrong direction.

    Put the pedal in the down position, lean the bike over on flat ground and look at the lean angle were the pedal strikes the ground, then do the same thing with the bike in a 4" deep single-track groove. The grooves are between 8" and 12" wide and that puts your pedal near the top of the berm. I was able to knock 10mm off the total Q factor on my second bike and it made a noticeable difference.

    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    You think? It's only 20mm difference in the rear.
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  17. #17
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    170mm v 190mm-img_20130823_123004_983.jpg

    What about traveling with the fatty??.....(I'm talking flying or shipping in a hard shell case).

    My 135 9zero7 fits quite snugly into a thule hard shell travel case with RD rear, ML front, lefty etc.

    Not sure a 190mm wide frame would fit ??....might have to rearrange the case who knows.

  18. #18
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    how does the chainline measure up? do you have to run an offset crank in order to get the best from the 190mm? does that matter? (im sure some googling would inform me...!)

  19. #19
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    Im 170mm, run buds front and rear, they are massive for what i do. Love them on singletrack though could run 3.7/4" quite easily... im with the dust settling comment but i get itchy feet. Wont be getting rid of this one anytime soon but would definately be a 190mm if i did.

    I have often used the word's "future proofing" but there is no standards anymore, there is no proofing (is there a future) ... its like getting a bigger TV "just because we can"

    I wouldnt get rid of a 170mm frame for a 190mm but if you are buying and have a choice right now, go 190mm.... just because you can.
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  20. #20
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    At this point in (FAT), time I believe we are in the middle of the fastest changing segment of biking! Don't purchase any thing yet if you have to have the latest, greatest unless you have very deep pockets because you will be changing bikes a couple times a year.

  21. #21
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    I'm perfectly content with 170mm, so long as I'll be able to purchase decent hubs for the next few years.

    Maybe I'm just not as passionate about bikes as many of you are. I love riding but it's still a hobby to me, and not inclined to spend money to keep up with the latest trend and standards.

    Not suggesting that's wrong (your money, you decide how you spend it), it's just not my thing. I guess I'm the same way with everything else - I still drive a 22-year old car, got a flip-up phone, 26" AM and DJ bikes, etc. Maybe I'm just a retro grouch in the making

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katz View Post
    Maybe I'm just not as passionate about bikes as many of you are. I love riding but it's still a hobby to me, and not inclined to spend money to keep up with the latest trend and standards.
    It's not passion...it's addiction haha
    I agree though, gotta have $$ if you want to keep up with the latest & greatest, and you will be buying new crap every year.

  23. #23
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    so in doing some googling: chainline on a 100mm bb fatty at front is ~65/66mm? a 190mm rear chainline will be ~75mm? where as a 170mm rear will be ~65mm,,ie: better shifting if you are not using an offset crank/chainring

    so - i reckon there is space for both 170 and 190 rears, depending on whether you need the clearance for the 5"ers on 100m rims or not...

    :-)~

  24. #24
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    I was shopping for fat bikes early this year (February-April). Which at the time I was reading about 190mm bikes to released later this year, or early in '14. So now my dilemma was 135, 170, or wait for 190... Then I learned about IGH. It was something I really wanted to try and with fat bikes rapidly evolving I didn't want to buy the latest and greatest when the 135's seem to do most of what people want, plus they get the option of IGH. I figured I still have many uses for my current fat bike even if it doesn't have enough flotation for some of my outings.

    If I find I need wider wheels and tires for snow and I find myself riding frequently in the snow, then I could justify buying a 190 (or bigger if available by then). To me 190 is an upgraded 170, but I don't think the 135's will be replaced (at least I hope not!).

    So I think if a person does not have a fat bike and did not want/need IGH, then 190 is the way to go. If somebody already has a 170, probably not worth getting rid of the bike just to get a 190.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    so in doing some googling: chainline on a 100mm bb fatty at front is ~65/66mm? a 190mm rear chainline will be ~75mm? where as a 170mm rear will be ~65mm,,ie: better shifting if you are not using an offset crank/chainring

    so - i reckon there is space for both 170 and 190 rears, depending on whether you need the clearance for the 5"ers on 100m rims or not...

    :-)~
    I couldn't agree more, dRjOn. I feel that there is definitely room for both 170mm and 190mm. I really hope that 170mm is not phased out. I've been riding my Fatback year round. In the summer I'm using 47mm Schlick rims. They've been great thus far. I love riding technical trails with 3.8's on 47mm rims. I feel that 4.8s on 100mm rims would be overkill in the summer in my neck of the woods.

    Where I live in VA, I feel that 70-90mm rims are more than adequate in the winter. If I lived somewhere that sees a very long winter with huge amounts of snow, then I would see more of a need for the larger tires.

    Shoo, I've gotta back-up what you stated about wider sometimes being somewhat of a handicap. Even with my 170mm rear end, I've found numerous rock moves that are impossible due to having a wider stance/q-factor. I would think this problem would be potentially exacerbated by having an even wider rear end.

  26. #26
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    I'm also curious about the potential for "heel strikes" on a 190 frame. I've read in a few places that some riders don't care for the 190 frames because they tend to hit their heels on the rear of the frame when wearing boots in the winter. I would love for someone with loads of time on both 170 and 190 frames to comment about this topic. Maybe it's BS, maybe not...

    I've gotta say that all the new 190 frames have peaked my interest. I'm just happy right now with my 170, and I'm not convinced that I need a 190...yet.

  27. #27
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    How about 180mm? It would be the best of both worlds, just like 27.5" wheels are!!

  28. #28
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    the other fly in the ointment for the super fatties is weight, i suppose. the 5" and 100mm rims (if they arent carbon... ) must weigh a good bit more than the 4" on say a 65mm...

    for rough/rock/no major sand/deep snow applications the 'compromise point' i suspect favors the smaller tyre, hence no NEED for the 190....if you're doing sand/deep fluffy snow, the compromise might well go the other way....

    i doubt 170mm will go away, esp as there are probably quite a few existing 170 frames out there, and the hubs are currently in production from lots of manufacturers...

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JYB View Post
    I'm also curious about the potential for "heel strikes" on a 190 frame.
    I don't have big calves at all but i rub my calves on the seat stays as it is. 10mm is negligible... can't see it being too much more of a problem but is not going to get any better.
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  30. #30
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    170 is not going anywhere. The prophecy is coming true, the Fatbike genre will separate into factions, the fat snow bike, and the fat trail bike.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    the other fly in the ointment for the super fatties is weight, i suppose. the 5" and 100mm rims (if they arent carbon... ) must weigh a good bit more than the 4" on say a 65mm...

    for rough/rock/no major sand/deep snow applications the 'compromise point' i suspect favors the smaller tyre, hence no NEED for the 190....if you're doing sand/deep fluffy snow, the compromise might well go the other way....

    i doubt 170mm will go away, esp as there are probably quite a few existing 170 frames out there, and the hubs are currently in production from lots of manufacturers...
    Agreed! There's no way that I would have wanted to lug around 4.8s on 100mm rims in the 100miler I did a couple weeks ago.

  32. #32
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    Okay, so I am thinking of having a custom frame made with 170mm spacing but the width and length for a Lou. I'd lose some gears in the rear when I had that Lou mounted, but I'd have great flexibility. I could keep my 4 existing wheel sets and also fit a Lou for when the snow was really flying. Thoughts?
    --Peace

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    just build an off-set the frame with 15-20 mm...you may need to rebuild your wheelsets, but at least you'd only be in that for the cost of spokes, nipples and the build...way cheaper than new hubs too...you might be able to do the majority of the wheel work yourself and just pay Zane to true them...he did a great job on a hub swap for me last week...
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    How many people have really put any real ride time in on a 190? 907's are not out yet. Fatboy's are not out yet. Borealis has just started shipping the Yampa. Not sure about the status of Fatback?
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    Quote Originally Posted by damnitman View Post
    just build an off-set the frame with 15-20 mm...you may need to rebuild your wheelsets, but at least you'd only be in that for the cost of spokes, nipples and the build...way cheaper than new hubs too...you might be able to do the majority of the wheel work yourself and just pay Zane to true them...he did a great job on a hub swap for me last week...
    I think the offset would be 10mm to equal 190mm symmetrical. But here is a thought--I could go with 5mm offset, which would almost surely not require a re-lace (just bit of tightening of the spokes on one side while loosening the other) and would likely allow me to use all but maybe one gear on a standard cassette. It would also probably allow me to use a Bob trailer which I enjoy using sometimes in the summer. (Bob's don't work with Pugs and Moonlanders due to the highly offset wheel hitting the non-offset BOB frame.) And there'd be less likelihood of heal strikes than with a full 10mm offset.

    Successful design is choosing the best compromise.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    How many people have really put any real ride time in on a 190? 907's are not out yet. Fatboy's are not out yet. Borealis has just started shipping the Yampa. Not sure about the status of Fatback?
    Fatbacks 190mm frames where raced last winter and they have been available for a couple of weeks now. Must not be a lot of takers yet, maybe people are just waiting for the dust to settle.

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    ...yeah, you could probably get it done with 10...I think Wildfire used 12mm(?),maybe 13.5(?)...also, FWIW, BOB will work with the Pugs, apparently you have to tweak the yoke to account for the offset...
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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozzybmx View Post
    I don't have big calves at all but i rub my calves on the seat stays as it is. 10mm is negligible... can't see it being too much more of a problem but is not going to get any better.
    Unless Q-factor or BB width grow by the same amount, 190mm will definitely put limits on how short chain stays can be designed. On my fatty with shortish 420mm stays, 10mm is about the clearance I got.

    Quote Originally Posted by Francis Cebedo, MTBR
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Fatbacks 190mm frames where raced last winter and they have been available for a couple of weeks now. Must not be a lot of takers yet, maybe people are just waiting for the dust to settle.
    Fatback just doesn't seem to really push their product or at least the Alu 190 frames. Really surprised that if they have been out for awhile we haven't seen any new build threads or pics. Are they even making 170 frames anymore or just selling old stock?
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    I'm happy with 170, could live with 135 too. Winter trails here are on scooters tracks and 4"wheel on 80mm rim's are more than enough. Not yet to find a spot to lack float on my Fatty..

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    We need 190 rears for all those 5+" tires that are out at Interbike now In the meantime, '13 Mukluks and all Moonlanders can run BFL's and Bud/Lou with 2x9 or 2x10 no problem, so it is within the frame builders ability to make it work with a 170. It seems like a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.

  42. #42
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    Depends on where you ride. Over here, we had 7 months of consecutive powder riding last winter, so our new rim is 103mm. We made the new studable Vee Snowshoe in 4.7'' in order to fit our Mk2 bikes (20mm offset and 135mm), otherwise, it would have been 5''+. We have tested 183mm symmetric prototypes, but that was just for fun, no need to have a custom standard. Our Mk3s will have 190mm symmetric frames as that will provide space for the next tire that we will make with Vee-Rubber. For powder, it is all about flotation, so what we are going to see is brands adapting standards depending on where the bulk of their bikes will be used. We are basically Scandinavia only, at least for now, we might export some of our upcoming sub $2400 model that will be in the 23-25lb range, depending on what rim we settle on. Plan was 25lbs with 103mm rims and clearance for 5.0+, but things are happening so fast in the rim world right now, so we might do a change.
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  43. #43
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    A good frame builder can build you a custom 170mm frame to take the biggest tires with zero offset if you do not mind loosing a few gears. The Fatback/FSA crank has a good q factor for clearing chain-stays that will clear Bud and Lou on Fatback 90mm rims.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    Okay, so I am thinking of having a custom frame made with 170mm spacing but the width and length for a Lou. I'd lose some gears in the rear when I had that Lou mounted, but I'd have great flexibility. I could keep my 4 existing wheel sets and also fit a Lou for when the snow was really flying. Thoughts?
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    Quote Originally Posted by deuxdiesel View Post
    We need 190 rears for all those 5+" tires that are out at Interbike now In the meantime, '13 Mukluks and all Moonlanders can run BFL's and Bud/Lou with 2x9 or 2x10 no problem, so it is within the frame builders ability to make it work with a 170. It seems like a solution for a problem that doesn't exist.
    I'm not a frame builder so this is just a guess, first take the ML out of the equation but any 170mm frame built properly and setting cs clearance aside should be able to use the same gear config for the exact same rim and tire combo. Chainstay and seatstay clearance should have no influence on how many gears one can run. It just strikes me funny when one person says they can run full gears on their Muk but another person says they can't do it with the same combo on their 907, it has to be other variances than the frame like the drivetrain, wheel dish, or it's not built straight. But like I said I'm not a frame builder so I could be completely wrong.

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    I can comment on heal strikes. I have been on the prototype 186mm frame from 9zero7 since last fall. I can report at no time have I had a heal strike. That includes riding with 45Nrth boots all winter and railing it all summer. This weekend will be my third 100+ mile race on the bike for the year. I have not needed the added tire clearance yet, but I could tell no difference between 170 and 190 on the trail. Mind you, it does give open up drivetrain options that are not possible with the big meats and 170 rears.

    As a side note, I have a chance to get insight on the thought process at times with 9zero7. They pushed hard to get a standard for the bigger hub size, so you can at least partially thank them that there is only the 170 and 190 hubs.
    I proudly ride for these guys.

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    Just curious if a 1x10/1x11 on a 170 frame allows the fattest rim/tire combo without chain/tire interference?

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    I don't know of anyone that has run a bud/Lou on cs on 170mm. I think on a red may be possible, but mud/snow clearance becomes an issue.

    If you don't ride in mud or snow, then you are barking up the wrong tree with regards to bud and Lou.

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    170mm v 190mm

    It would seem that way Bob but there is a little more to it. Not a frame builder here either but I have quite a bit of experience assembling bikes.

    The crank set bottom bracket combination affects chain-line quite a bit. It is easy to have a full ring or more difference from one brand to another. The FSA will clear a much bigger tire than the E13. If the bikes have the same crank set and bottom bracket combination then in theory they should fit the same but in reality they do not. Most mass produced bike frames can vary several mm's in many directions. You can assemble two identical frames with the same crank/ BB combination and the driveline can easily be 2 or 3 mm different. That is one of the reasons Bottom brackets come with spacers, so we can fine tune the chain line.

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I'm not a frame builder so this is just a guess, first take the ML out of the equation but any 170mm frame built properly and setting cs clearance aside should be able to use the same gear config for the exact same rim and tire combo. Chainstay and seatstay clearance should have no influence on how many gears one can run. It just strikes me funny when one person says they can run full gears on their Muk but another person says they can't do it with the same combo on their 907, it has to be other variances than the frame like the drivetrain, wheel dish, or it's not built straight. But like I said I'm not a frame builder so I could be completely wrong.
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  49. #49
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    I was having slight chain rub running a BFL on my 170mm 907 with a 1x10 setup. It wasn't horrible until snow or mud built up on the tire at which point I couldn't use the largest couple gears out back. I was never a fan of the BFL so I started running Nates which helped but I still feel like I needed bigger tires since I mostly ride my fattie in snow and sand and I'm not the smallest guy on the trail. This is the main reason I sold it to go 190. I just want to run a Bud/Lou and have a bit of clearance in the frame and the chain. I personally feel fine with the Q-Factor on my fat bike and I dare to say that I wish my three other bikes had a wider Q similar to my fattie.
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  50. #50
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    Thanks for the info Logantri!

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    +1 on this

    Quote Originally Posted by JAGI410 View Post
    170 is not going anywhere. The prophecy is coming true, the Fatbike genre will separate into factions, the fat snow bike, and the fat trail bike.

  52. #52
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    Is anyone even selling 190 hubs yet?

    at this point 190 is just too far down the exotic/hard to find/limited availability rabbit hole for me.

    Say what you will about 135, hubs are easy to find.

  53. #53
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    borealis, 9:zero7, fatback has hadley 190s, and soon if not already the hope 190mm

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by shoo View Post
    It would seem that way Bob but there is a little more to it. Not a frame builder here either but I have quite a bit of experience assembling bikes.

    The crank set bottom bracket combination affects chain-line quite a bit. It is easy to have a full ring or more difference from one brand to another. The FSA will clear a much bigger tire than the E13. If the bikes have the same crank set and bottom bracket combination then in theory they should fit the same but in reality they do not. Most mass produced bike frames can vary several mm's in many directions. You can assemble two identical frames with the same crank/ BB combination and the driveline can easily be 2 or 3 mm different. That is one of the reasons Bottom brackets come with spacers, so we can fine tune the chain line.
    Ahh I didn't realize production bikes could vary that much within the same brand from frame to frame. Thanks for explaining that! I just always contributed the variances people where having stemmed from differences in drive train and wheels dish.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Espen W View Post
    ... we might export some of our upcoming sub $2400 model that will be in the 23-25lb range, depending on what rim we settle on. ...
    Is that going to be a 'trail bike' with short chainstays and slack front end (Salsa Beargrease, Singular Puffin, Schlick APe etc...)? Tubeless, I assume?

    Either way, I suspect a sub 25lb, sub $2400 complete fatbike would sell as fast as you could make them. Nobody else is offering anything close to that.

  56. #56
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    I built a home brewed mukluk II with a 190 hub, a clown shoe with a lou tubeless. Also a 1x10 that has a 42x13 cassette with a 30 tooth chain ring on a modified E13 crank. I have ran this setup from about mid-winter last year and also I do ride it a lot in the wet muddy time all year long. I would guess I have at least 500 to 600 miles on this set up. Before I did the 190 setup I had a lot of miles with the 170 hub, rolling Darrell and a lou which I rode for over a year. I had to drop a couple of cassette rings for that setup and still had chain rub on the large cassette ring.
    If you like or need a lou I think the 190 will works out well. I do not see a down side to it. I do not have any trouble with heel strikes. I have about 3mm of chain clearance from my tire. Also the 1x10 with a 42 tooth cassette works great, although it would be nice to have the higher gear that the xx1 gives you. If I had that I think I would run a 28 chain ring up front. The 42 tooth cassette with a 30 tooth chain ring upfront can be a little too much on long tough rides.
    So with that said my next fat bike will be a 190.

  57. #57
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    If you don't want heel strikes just wear tiny shoes and use 165mm cranks.

    another option is to modify your cleats to sit at an angle and ride pidgen toed.

  58. #58
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    Or you could get a BionX e-Bike Systems and not worry about pedaling.
    If Huffy made an airplane, would you fly in it?

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by TooSteep View Post
    Is that going to be a 'trail bike' with short chainstays and slack front end (Salsa Beargrease, Singular Puffin, Schlick APe etc...)? Tubeless, I assume?

    Either way, I suspect a sub 25lb, sub $2400 complete fatbike would sell as fast as you could make them. Nobody else is offering anything close to that.
    The first sample was 26lbs, but that was with 1000g+ rims and 1420g Vee Missions. If Stan can get the new rims out super quick, we might be able to use them for production, and that would mean around 23.6lbs if the rim stays at 500g. The bike would ship with tubes installed, but we would include Notubes valves and Notubes solution with the bike, so the shop could quickly set it up tubeless. We do this on a number of high end models. If the rims won't be available by January, their first use will be on the Mk4 model that will hit shops in September next year. In that case (most likely), the Mk3s will sta with our new 103mm wide rims that weigh in right at 900g, so good weight for a 103mm. I have tested 850g protos, but they didn't pass the pull through test (nipples pulled out at a lower tension than spec)
    The new crop of tubeless rims are super nice, as they not only save weight by the rim itself, but the heavy (70-115g) rimstrip is replaced by one or two strips of yellow tape (5/10g) as well as replacing the tube with a 5g valve and 55g of solution (some will want to use more, of course).
    Exiting times.
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  60. #60
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    I'm suscribe this post. To see what could be the replacement for my current fatbike...

  61. #61
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    How many 1000's of fat bikes have already been made for 170mm? Their hubs will go out sooner or later. 170 hubs arn't going away.

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    I've got a lot of miles on both 190 and 170 frames. IMO the frame spacing is negligible compared to tire/wheel selection. Since the 190 frame will run smaller wheel setups just fine, and still run the 100's/Bud/Lou with a full drivetrain, but the 170 frame won't...there isn't a lot of argument against 190.

    Doesn't mean that a 170 frame won't completely satisfy *your* needs. Doesn't mean that all those 170 frames are obsolete. What it does mean is that it doesn't make much sense for a MFG to offer both sizes; or for a consumer to look at a 170 frame as a new rig unless you are just looking to swap everything over to a new frame AND know for sure that you don't want to run 4.8's. Ever.

    Probably worth noting that virtually all of my miles on both rigs was on snow. I don't spend a lot of time on dirt with the fatties.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by joatley View Post
    I've got a lot of miles on both 190 and 170 frames. IMO the frame spacing is negligible compared to tire/wheel selection. Since the 190 frame will run smaller wheel setups just fine, and still run the 100's/Bud/Lou with a full drivetrain, but the 170 frame won't...there isn't a lot of argument against 190.

    Doesn't mean that a 170 frame won't completely satisfy *your* needs. Doesn't mean that all those 170 frames are obsolete. What it does mean is that it doesn't make much sense for a MFG to offer both sizes; or for a consumer to look at a 170 frame as a new rig unless you are just looking to swap everything over to a new frame AND know for sure that you don't want to run 4.8's. Ever.

    Probably worth noting that virtually all of my miles on both rigs was on snow. I don't spend a lot of time on dirt with the fatties.
    I couldn't agree more, a 190 frame doesn't force you to run 100mm rims with bud/lou you can lace up whatever you want. With that setup you will always have the option to choose whatever you want down the road.

  64. #64
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    Plenty of 190mm hubs in the works these days. Availability will be better than for 170mm hubs within a fairly short amount of time.
    Espen Wethe
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    https://fat-bike.com/2016/06/diamant...an-pennington/

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by joatley View Post
    I've got a lot of miles on both 190 and 170 frames. IMO the frame spacing is negligible compared to tire/wheel selection. Since the 190 frame will run smaller wheel setups just fine, and still run the 100's/Bud/Lou with a full drivetrain, but the 170 frame won't...there isn't a lot of argument against 190.

    Doesn't mean that a 170 frame won't completely satisfy *your* needs. Doesn't mean that all those 170 frames are obsolete. What it does mean is that it doesn't make much sense for a MFG to offer both sizes; or for a consumer to look at a 170 frame as a new rig unless you are just looking to swap everything over to a new frame AND know for sure that you don't want to run 4.8's. Ever.

    Probably worth noting that virtually all of my miles on both rigs was on snow. I don't spend a lot of time on dirt with the fatties.
    Thanks for your thoughts. I am a larger rider (about 195 pounds) who is dipping my foot into more remote riding this year, including the revived 100k Iditasport. Do you think I'll need the 4.8 tires or do you think I can get away with speedway's (new) 4.25 tires on 100mm rims? How much of a difference do you think the 4.8 tires will make for someone my size? I already have a mukluk with a 170mm rear end, so the question is: should I upgrade now or wait and see how how things go?
    --Peace

  66. #66
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    That's the big question. You just never know what the snow conditions will be until you get out there. That area gets a lot of snowmachine traffic and can have some really nice trails. Most (MOST!) of the time you could ride that course very fast with a smaller tire/wheel setup and probably a bit slower with a 100/Bud setup. I usually race at around 185 lbs and if I was racing it I'd have my 70/Stirling's.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by joatley View Post
    That's the big question. You just never know what the snow conditions will be until you get out there. That area gets a lot of snowmachine traffic and can have some really nice trails. Most (MOST!) of the time you could ride that course very fast with a smaller tire/wheel setup and probably a bit slower with a 100/Bud setup. I usually race at around 185 lbs and if I was racing it I'd have my 70/Stirling's.
    So, I think I have my answer. Stick with the 170 setup this year, hope for good conditions, and if I want to do some more remote stuff next year, upgrade then. Perfect--now I just have to hope the conditions will cooperate!!!
    Last edited by Lars_D; 09-26-2013 at 08:16 PM.
    --Peace

  68. #68
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    Plus, if it comes down to a sprint, the 70's are just a tad faster than the 100's.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by joatley View Post
    That's the big question. You just never know what the snow conditions will be until you get out there. That area gets a lot of snowmachine traffic and can have some really nice trails. Most (MOST!) of the time you could ride that course very fast with a smaller tire/wheel setup and probably a bit slower with a 100/Bud setup. I usually race at around 185 lbs and if I was racing it I'd have my 70/Stirling's.
    Quote Originally Posted by TBerntson View Post
    Plus, if it comes down to a sprint, the 70's are just a tad faster than the 100's.
    So let me guess Kevin B was on 70's and somebody else wasn't

    Wow right from the horse..s mouths!! Good luck this winter guys, I'll be watching the leaderboards for ya.

    Oh and I wonder how the climbing grip in Snow is going to be on the Stirlings compared to like the Nates?

  70. #70
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    Well that didn't come out so good... having enough heel clearance is important, and problems aren't limited to any particular hub width or brand. I have a standard SS mtb I built up last spring I strike my heels on. It is something we try to maximize.
    I need more clearance between me and that 18yr old bottle of scotch they brought by last night.
    Last edited by thirstywork; 09-27-2013 at 12:27 PM.
    Speedway Cycles owner http://fatbackbikes.com

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by thirstywork View Post
    Heel strikes on chain stays-it's a common problem the new 190 players frames, but not Fatbacks. We have worked overtime to have the most heel clearance as well as calf clearnance (on the chain stays) in the business. Our 190 frames are second to none in clearance, and it's one of the reasons we haven't just thrown product on the market like our competitors. It's a real challenge trying to put it all together, giving maximum tire clearance while still giving maximum heel clearance, but we have it down.
    I have been on a 9zero7 prototype for almost a year now. I have had problems with heel strikes and calf rubbing on previous bikes (like my old Trek Superfly 100's), I also tend to rub cranks raw with my heel. I have hundreds if not thousands of snow miles, and thousands of off road riding and racing with no problems what so ever except getting the grin off my face.
    I proudly ride for these guys.

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  72. #72
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    My heel clearance is bigger than yours!

  73. #73
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    Retracted!!
    thanks.
    Last edited by gcappy; 09-27-2013 at 12:53 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TBerntson View Post
    Plus, if it comes down to a sprint, the 70's are just a tad faster than the 100's.
    Ouch...

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    So let me guess Kevin B was on 70's and somebody else wasn't

    Wow right from the horse..s mouths!! Good luck this winter guys, I'll be watching the leaderboards for ya.

    Oh and I wonder how the climbing grip in Snow is going to be on the Stirlings compared to like the Nates?
    KB beat me straight up. Same bikes and same wheels. I think it was a Dr. Pepper, or maybe some Reeses he had up his sleeve.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBerntson View Post
    KB beat me straight up. Same bikes and same wheels. I think it was a Dr. Pepper, or maybe some Reeses he had up his sleeve.
    But what if you or he had a 190 with Bud and Lou on clown shoes?
    --Peace

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars_D View Post
    But what if you or he had a 190 with Bud and Lou on clown shoes?
    I don't think it would've made it any faster, besides, the Bud's are a very slow rolling tire. I, and I think KB, probably would have been better off dropping tire pressure a bit. I did ride two Lou's on a 190 Fatback for a couple months last winter. Worked great, but I like a slightly narrower combo for most of the riding I do here. For certain occasions it would be great to have the option of larger tires and rims. If I was buying a new bike, which I am, I'd buy the 190 hub for the ability to go wider. I will not be buying 100's, Bud's or Lou's at this time.

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    Re: 170mm v 190mm

    They both suck compared to 135 offset.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultraspontane View Post
    They both suck compared to 135 offset.
    Or they are both better than 135 offset. To each their own. I'll go symmetrical

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