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  1. #1
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    17 braze on bolts on Muk3 removed

    I've been looking at these unused bolts for 7 months now so I took them off and thinking of a good substitute to cover the holes, clear caulk maybe? I use a camelback so until my next expedition, I want to leave them off.
    It seems to be a half pound of weight in bolts there. Can someone do me a solid and weigh one braze bolt from their muk? Weight Info on Internet is conflicting at best.
    17 braze on bolts on Muk3 removed-imageuploadedbytapatalk1370725224.302575.jpg

  2. #2
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Here is what I think is a good solution. They are plastic buttons from Ace Hardware that have barbs that prevent them from coming out. I'm ridden a lot of miles and they have worked great.


  3. #3
    web-footed pedaler
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    Personally, I think you're far better off just leaving the bolts in place. That way you're sure that the threads are clean and you know where the bolts are when you want to attach something to the bike. If weight is an issue, there are many other areas that would be far more beneficial to concern yourself with than the braze-on bolts.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
    will rant for food
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    I had a parts bin handy and found a similar length / thread / head bolt. 6 grams. By 17 is 102 grams, or 0.23 pounds.
    Latitude: 44.93 N

  6. #6
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    My muk has had them empty from the get go and she rolls just fine.
    Whatever floats your bike, dude

  7. #7
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    You can find aluminum M5 hardware anodized in different colors on eBay. It's much lighter and will bring some bling to the bike. As said, though, I would leave the bolts in. It's nice to not get dirt or corrosion in your frame holes. If .23 of a pound is a worry, take a sh*t before you ride and you'll be even lighter than that.

  8. #8
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ant-Eater View Post
    Personally, I think you're far better off just leaving the bolts in place. That way you're sure that the threads are clean and you know where the bolts are when you want to attach something to the bike. If weight is an issue, there are many other areas that would be far more beneficial to concern yourself with than the braze-on bolts.
    There are a lot of options to keep the threads clean and those bolts are easily replaceable if lost. It's an easy place to get rid of unneeded weight.

  9. #9
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    The plug ends from cheap ballpoint pens may fit.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
    Latitude: 5736' Highlands, Scotland

  10. #10
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    17 braze on bolts on Muk3 removed

    At first, I put bolts in the holes. Then when I started to get mass obsessed, I removed them and smeared some bearing grease in the hole. Been thinking it would be nice find some caps.

  11. #11
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    17 braze on bolts on Muk3 removed

    Thx Drew for getting an official weight for the 17 bolts, maybe I should be on the weight weenie forum with this, but a 1/4 pound less is a nice, free way to lightening the tractor up
    I gotta "hole out" the rims next.

  12. #12
    Elitest thrill junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrhz06 View Post
    That's what I was going to suggest. Perfectly functional and a fraction of the weight of metal. Need to pick up two for my water bottle mounts.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbmattcor View Post
    Thx Drew for getting an official weight for the 17 bolts, maybe I should be on the weight weenie forum with this, but a 1/4 pound less is a nice, free way to lightening the tractor up
    I gotta "hole out" the rims next.
    Consider also nylon fabric + duct tape rim strips instead of plastic one (if you still got them). That is also a cheap way to drop another 1/4 pounds I recall that two Surly rim strips for RD weighed approximately 180 g/0,4 pounds, whereas two of these weigh in at 68 g/0,15 pounds



    edit: unless you have gone tubeless, of course

    Sorry OT, but weight weenies was mentioned, and I could not resist

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrhz06 View Post
    Replace with nylon bolts.
    +1, except that I couldn't find the correct size on the page you linked to.

    I get black nylon cap screws from McMaster-Carr in the M5x12mm size. They're light, about a dime each, and keep the threads as clean as a whistle. Be sure to grease them a bit when installing.

    Found at the bottom of this page:

    Cap Screws

  15. #15
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    That's a great website, MauricioB. Thanks. McMaster-Carr carbon fiber McMaster-Carr hole saws McMaster-Carr de-bur tools

  16. #16
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    Why are you all ignoring the plastic buttons from ACE? This thread should have stopped right at the plastic buttons.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traktor View Post
    Why are you all ignoring the plastic buttons from ACE? This thread should have stopped right at the plastic buttons.
    Do you or Alphazz care to share the actual description of said buttons for those of us that don't have a local Ace Hardware?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traktor View Post
    Why are you all ignoring the plastic buttons from ACE? This thread should have stopped right at the plastic buttons.
    We're not ignoring you, these are just other suggestions. I bought the nylon cap screws long, long before this thread was started.

    That said, do you know exactly what Ace calls those or what to ask for specifically? I'd kinda like to get some larger ones to fill the canti post holes on a couple of my older Surlys. The M10x1.0 thread pitch they use is almost impossible to find in nylon...

  19. #19
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    Pretty sure those are referred to as panel fasteners, they come in a number of shapes and sizes. They are cosmetic only and would need help to seal out the elements if that is what you are after.
    Whatever floats your bike, dude

  20. #20
    Laramie, Wyoming
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin Mustangs View Post
    Pretty sure those are referred to as panel fasteners, they come in a number of shapes and sizes. They are cosmetic only and would need help to seal out the elements if that is what you are after.
    I disagree with the "cosmetic only" statement. But if you are floating your bike down a river, then yes, you will need to take some special measures. Mine have stayed very tight with a lot of winter, spring, and now summer trail riding. I will try to get more information on what they are actually called and proper size.

  21. #21
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    If you are not riding your fat bike down or across creeks and rivers you should really give it a go. Seriously.
    Whatever floats your bike, dude

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