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  1. #1
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    '12 Mukluk 1x10 What do I need?

    Hi guys, I have a bone stock 2012 Mukluk 2 in need of some upgrades. I've spent the last hour trying to search for info on the e13 bottom bracket issues I remember reading about, but I can't seem to find anything. I have a nasty creak in the bb and I think it is due to the spacers all being on one side, but I also remember seeing something about bearing failures on the e13 bb. I want to go 1x10 and take care of these issues at the same time, but I have no idea what I need to do this. Can I keep the cranks and replace just the bearings or bottom bracket? What else do I need? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    You can just replace your bearings and make sure everything else is working properly and keep it stock. Switching to 1x won't fix any problems. Assuming all is well after BB maintenance, you need a front ring (Race Face makes some nice 1x rings with alternating teeth) of your size choice, maybe a outer bash ring and an inner chain keeper like a Deda dog fang or N-gear jump stop, but those are not absolutely needed. Shorten your chain appropriately, remove your front shifter and deraillier and you are done.

  3. #3
    Karma Vampire
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    '12 Mukluk 1x10 What do I need?

    BB is mostly a separate issue from going 1x10. You can get a alternative BB to the E.13 BB from Real World Cycling that uses Enduro bearings. I had my e.13 BB rebuilt with Phil Wood bearings. Also swap out the stock 5mm thick plastic spacers for the alloy spacers. Before installing the BB cups, put two on the DS and one on the NDS. The spacer setup is the recommended e.13 setup per e.13. Also, use anti-seize paste on the threads. Consider having your BB shell drilled for a drain hole before reinstalling then BB.
    ____________________

    You will need to do/buy the following for the 1x10 change:

    Remove front derailleur shifter, front derailleur and cable.

    Remove the 9-spd chain.

    Remove all your chain rings from the e.13 crankset, you will need to remove the crank arms to do it.

    Buy new chainring bolts for attaching a single chainring.

    Buy a new 10-spd chain.

    Buy a new WolfTooth or Race Face chain ring with the latest and greatest "narrow wide teeth". The BCD is 104mm for your current cranks. Be conservative on the number of teeth. Need this new tooth design if you want to run without a chain guide. When you reinstall the crank arms follow the directions carefully, a little extra torque is ok. Check the torque after a short ride.

    Buy a 10-spd RD with a clutch, Shimano shadow plus or SRAM Type 2 (edit: must match shifter brand). Need the clutch if you want to run without a chain guide. You should be able to use a medium length cage derailleur. Long would be more flexible, if you change your mind about the 1x10.

    Buy a 10-speed rear shifter from Shimano or SRAM. Likely it comes with a shift cable but you will need a full run of housing to match your current setup. You will need tie straps to fix the housing to the bike.

    You will likely need new grips. Grip-Shift 10 comes with grips, the paddles from SRAM and Shimano don't.

    Remove your 9-spd cassette and replace with a Shimano or SRAM 11-36 cassette. Good time to check that the rear derailleur is straight using the Park alignment tool.

    You likely could spend less by going another route, but from your post this might be easiest to get working. Oh, I suggest you have a shop do all the work, again based on your original post details. Going 1x11 would require a new rear wheel to start down that road.

    My 3 cents. Good luck with your '12 Muk. Typos courtesy of a bad education and an iPhone.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. Apparently I'm a little slow, I thought I had a 10 speed cassette, hence the 1x10 thread title. I do not use anything but the middle ring, so I want to go 1x in the front, but I don't want to change anything out back, unless I have to. Since the bottom bracket needs work anyway, I figured I would take care of everything at the same time.

  5. #5
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    A 1x9 will do very well for you- there is no need to change your chain, cassette, rear deraillier and shifter just to pick up one more gear. A 12/36 9 speed has the same high and low ratio as a 12/36 10 speed. If you try it and really like it, you can eventually switch to 10 speed stuff, but for now, a single ring up front is all you need.

  6. #6
    ...big and slow
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    Here is what I did to make my '12 Muk2 1X9.

    1x9 conversion completed...finally
    Chromey

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys! I ordered a Race Face narrow and wide 32t chainring and a bashguard. I think I'm going to try it without a chain guide for now. While I was at it, I ordered some speed dial 7 brake levers so I can ditch the sh*tty stock ones.

    I still haven't figured out the bottom bracket/ bearing problem though. I emailed Chris at Real World Cycles, and he recommended replacing the bottom bracket with one of these EXTERNAL CUP BB30 BOTTOM BRACKETS FROM REAL WORLD CYCLING. Is this a good way to go? Do I need to spend $50 on a tool I'll use once, or do you think my lbs can install this? What is the reason to get the ceramic bearings?
    Last edited by White & Nerdy; 07-31-2013 at 08:56 PM. Reason: typos

  8. #8
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    Nice bearings and pretty cups, but wow, that's pricey. Personally, I've never use ceramic bearings and see no need for it. It looks like you can use a Shimano style BB cup tool instead of that one, but it might gouge up the cups. Have you checked with e13 about new bearings?

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