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  1. #51
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    You guys must have defective ones. I've had a Spinner 24 on my son bike for almost year now. Not a single problem, Where as the RST First that came on my Daughters Cannondale, the lock out hasn't worked since day one.
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  2. #52
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    Same here. Went riding today. Spinner air 24 works well, just wish it got full travel.

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    You guys must have defective ones. I've had a Spinner 24 on my son bike for almost year now. Not a single problem, Where as the RST First that came on my Daughters Cannondale, the lock out hasn't worked since day one.
    Only boring people get bored.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamm3 View Post
    Well I talked to Brian (Demo9) about this and he really stepped up and sent a complete new fork. Thanks for the great customer support on this. Once I pull the old one off I will throw calipers at it to see what is really wrong.
    Adamm, any update on the new fork? Would love to hear if the 2nd one is better than the original, as I may try and order another one too.

    Thanks - BS

  4. #54
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    New fork is much better. I still have not measured the old one.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post

    I can neither tighten nor loosen the bolt. Its almost like it was cross thread at the factory or seized since........

    I'm stumped on this one.

    Had a fork do this once, I drilled the head off the bolt, then once the assembly was out, lathed up a collet to hold the shaft and was able to remove the remaining bolt shank. Chase threads to clean up afterwards.

  6. #56
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    Anyone have recent experience with the Spinner Air forks?
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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    Anyone have recent experience with the Spinner Air forks?

    Also interested in this. I might buy a KTM 20" full suspension for my son.

  8. #58
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    Can anyone tell me how fast is the preset rebound? Is it more on the fast side or more on the slow side? I contacted the EU distributer and can get one for about 100 euros shipped. The RST F1st 20 costs about twice that with shipping but also has compression and rebound control.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swissam View Post
    Can anyone tell me how fast is the preset rebound? Is it more on the fast side or more on the slow side? I contacted the EU distributer and can get one for about 100 euros shipped. The RST F1st 20 costs about twice that with shipping but also has compression and rebound control.
    Id say the Spinner is more on the fast side.
    To be honest any fork for a kid is difficult to tune rebound and compression as its personal to the rider and they need to know what they are feeling in order to communicate it and get it set up.
    For a kid they are not that bothered its more about cushioning the bumps a little in order to ride suffer stuff without being bucked around.

    Ive got a Spinner20 & RST 24.
    The RST is better in every way (IMHO) and I dialled it in using a video camera so I could see what was happening on the trail.

    The upside with the Spinner is you can increase the travel if you can get the thing a part (see previous threads). I haven't opened the RST up yet to see what can be done nor have I seen any posts that suggest its travel can be increased.
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  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    Good call. I will move the plastic piece. My son has been using the fork on his Dj bike. I would have to say so far its a pretty good fork.
    I picked up one of these forks for my son's bike and also noticed the reduced travel. I'm trying to move the plastic stopper piece to the next higher hole (mine only has one hole, btw, at the 3rd hole position in the OPs pic for some reason), but I just can't get the securing pin(?) out. I thought it was an Allen inset screw, but it's not. I tried to drill it out, but can't get a grip on it to drill through. I tried pushing it out, but it just won't budge.

    How did you get yours out?

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    Wanted: Ritchey P-20,21,22,23 in Team colors, 18-inch, '92-99, Ritchey Logic fork (threadless); NEW Rock Shox Judy Decal Sets

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanus View Post
    I picked up one of these forks for my son's bike and also noticed the reduced travel. I'm trying to move the plastic stopper piece to the next higher hole (mine only has one hole, btw, at the 3rd hole position in the OPs pic for some reason), but I just can't get the securing pin(?) out. I thought it was an Allen inset screw, but it's not. I tried to drill it out, but can't get a grip on it to drill through. I tried pushing it out, but it just won't budge.

    How did you get yours out?

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    It's probably just a spring pin. Did you try using a punch?

  12. #62
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    It's a roll pin you have to drive it out with a punch.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    It's a roll pin you have to drive it out with a punch.
    I admit that I don't have a proper punch set, but I did try tapping it out with a similarly-sized hex key that I had cut off. I didn't hit it too hard in fear of cracking the plastic piece, though. My stopgap was to just cut the spring in half. It's a very high-tension spring as it is; even at half the length it serves its purpose as a top-out bumper just fine, plus it added ~10-15mm of travel, or a total of ~50mm. My son is under 50lbs currently, so once he is heavier and needs higher psi in the air spring, I can look into attempting remval of the pin again and putting back in a longer spring (my local Ace has plenty of suitable options; they have everything!). Thanks for your help.
    Wanted: Ritchey P-20,21,22,23 in Team colors, 18-inch, '92-99, Ritchey Logic fork (threadless); NEW Rock Shox Judy Decal Sets

  14. #64
    try driving your car less
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    Thanks for that update!

    Quote Originally Posted by bryanus View Post
    I admit that I don't have a proper punch set, but I did try tapping it out with a similarly-sized hex key that I had cut off. I didn't hit it too hard in fear of cracking the plastic piece, though. My stopgap was to just cut the spring in half. It's a very high-tension spring as it is; even at half the length it serves its purpose as a top-out bumper just fine, plus it added ~10-15mm of travel, or a total of ~50mm. My son is under 50lbs currently, so once he is heavier and needs higher psi in the air spring, I can look into attempting remval of the pin again and putting back in a longer spring (my local Ace has plenty of suitable options; they have everything!). Thanks for your help.
    Only boring people get bored.

  15. #65
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    Where can I get my hands on the 20" spinner? Anyone recently get one new?

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanus View Post
    I picked up one of these forks for my son's bike and also noticed the reduced travel. I'm trying to move the plastic stopper piece to the next higher hole (mine only has one hole, btw, at the 3rd hole position in the OPs pic for some reason), but I just can't get the securing pin(?) out. I thought it was an Allen inset screw, but it's not. I tried to drill it out, but can't get a grip on it to drill through. I tried pushing it out, but it just won't budge.

    How did you get yours out?

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    Hey man, can you give me a lead on where you got the spinner air 20? I can't seem to track one down.

  17. #67
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    I bought mine from the guy who owns Spawn Cycles. PM him. Sweet bikes. Check him out.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by stom_m3 View Post
    I bought mine from the guy who owns Spawn Cycles. PM him. Sweet bikes. Check him out.
    Thanks for the info,however I already contacted them, and they aren't selling the 155mm anymore. Apparently they are coming out with something "exciting" in March that would fit my needs. Maybe I'll hold off on the 24" for now, although that trailcraft snw looks pretty killer.

  19. #69
    Royalston Mass
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    Has anyone gotten their Spinner Air to work properly? Mine has an enormous amount of initial Stiction and my 40 # son can even compress the fork, even with 10# of air in it
    Don't argue with idiots...they will take you down to their level and beat you with experience

  20. #70
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    I've successfully serviced my 20" Spinner Grind Air fork and I thought I should follow up as some of you may find it helpful.

    The fork came off of a Spawn Cycles Savage 2.0. It has worked ok, but as others have posted it did not get full travel, suffered from terrible stiction, and had a loose bolt on the air side that could not be tightened or removed.

    I tried to follow Demo9's breakdown instructions, but could not remove the bold on the air side. Turning the bolt in any direction just spun the air piston.

    Spinning piston

    I reached out to Spinner a year ago regarding the issues and for service instructions. Eventually they posted a service guide on their facebook page.

    Spinner Grind Air OS 20" Service

    This motivated me to give it another go. Here is what I did to finally successfully break it down and improve its performance (I did not follow all steps outlined in the Spinner service guide). Sorry I did not stop to take photos.

    Step 1: Remove the fork from the bike, let the air out, and remove the air chamber cap.

    Step 2: Remove the hex bolt from the bottom of the damper side.

    Step 3: Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to clean out the top of the air chamber, making sure to clean the top of the air piston.

    Step 4: Compress the fork so the top of the air piston is just below the top cap threads.

    Step 5: Take an old inner-tube and cut it in half, clean about 6" of the cut end with rubbing alcohol, roll it up a bit and stuff it into the top of the air chamber. Stuff it in as tight as possible and try to pile it up out of the top of the fork leg.

    Step 6: Hold the fork parallel to the ground and press the stuffed inner-tube that is sticking out of the air chamber against the edge of a solid workbench. The idea is to stop the air piston from rotating using the grip of the rubber. Now hold the fork lower in one hand and the hex key in the other and push as hard as you can against the work bench while undoing the bolt. Mine loosened rather easily.

    Step 7: Now with both lower bolts removed remove the inner-tube and separate the lowers from the stanchions.

    Step 8: Pour a little fork oil into the top of the air chamber and slowly press the air piston rod from the bottom up past the threads and out the top (the fork oil is to protect the piston seal from being damaged by the air cap threads as it passes through).

    Step 9: Remove the lower rubber washer, plastic collar and top out spring from the air piston rod and clean with alcohol.

    ***Top-out spring position and holes in the piston rod*** The piston rod in my fork did not have as many holes as shown in Demo9's photos. It only had one additional hole about 4" up from where the top plastic collar was already secured. The fork featured in the Spinner facebook service guide is the 80mm version and shows the top plastic collar in the upper position. I'm not sure if moving the plastic collar to the upper position on my fork would increase the travel to 80mm. I don't know if the damper cartridge is long enough or if the stanchions are log enough, so I decided not to use the upper position. In addition I do not have a drill press so I was not about to try to drill an additional hole in the air piston rod as Demo9 did (1/4" up from the original lower hole). I decided to go another route as described below...

    Step 10: Make an elastomer top-out bumper to replace the spring. I salvaged an elastomer spring from an old RockShox Quadra fork. I cleaned it, cut it to be 1/2 the length of the original top out spring and drilled out a hole down the middle so that I could slide it onto a drill driver bit. I then put the bit with the bumper on it into a drill and used it as a lathe to sand down the diameter of the elastomer bumper to match the diameter of the spring. Finally I drilled out the centre of the bumper to match the diameter of the air piston rod. I'm sure most any rubber bumper you can make will work. Before I found the old fork I was going to use soft skateboard truck bushings. Just don't use rubber that will breakdown in oil or crumble to bits.

    Step 11: Lightly coat the air piston, new elastomer bumper, plastic collars with fork oil (I used fox float oil on the air seal).

    Step 12: Place the new bumper, bottom plastic collar and rubber washer onto the bottom of the air piston rod.

    Step 13: Lightly coat the inside of the air chamber with fork oil especially the threads at the top.

    Step 14: Place the air piston rod back into the top of the air chamber stanchion, carefully pressing the air seal past the threads.

    Step 15: Clean out the fork lowers/seals with alcohol and paper towels, then coat the inside with a thin layer of fork oil.

    Step 16: Place the fork lowers back onto the stanchions.

    Step 17: Replace the lower hex bolt on the damper side.

    Step: 18: Press the air piston down far enough to loosely thread in the bottom hex bolt on the air side.

    Step 19: Now to tighten the air side lower hex bolt you will have to follow the procedure in steps 3-6 (clean, stuff inner-tube, press on bench, tighten bolt).

    Step 20: Replace air chamber top cap and inflate to 50psi. Finally re-install on bike.

    We now have full, almost stiction-free travel. I've tried to test out the top-out bumper by compressing the fork and pulling up quickly. It does feel different from the original spring, but is not harsh or noisy. I would be reluctant to run this set-up at higher air pressures as the rebound could have significantly more force.

    My 7yo son has been riding his bike for a week since we completed this service. We reduced the air pressure to 48psi and the fork is performing awesome. Before the fork would not extend all the way after being compressed. Now even at the lower pressure it consistently returns to full length.

    Spinner Air 20" Fork-lucas.jpg

    I'll open it up after a few weeks to check on things.

    Thanks

  21. #71
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    This is awesome. Thanks for the instructions. I tried to take the fork apart but also had the spinning bolt issue. I'll try your method.

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