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  1. #26
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    A three pound fork heavy? Am I missing something?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by tyrebyter View Post
    A three pound fork heavy? Am I missing something?
    Yes, you're missing something. There's just a comparison to the coil fork version.

    The air fork is 3.3lbs. The coil fork is 1900+g. The kid's forks that come with the bikes are coil and heavy.

    Also 1500g is the weight of my 26" RockShox SID fork. One would hope that a 20" fork is lighter, being smaller and less material. I don't think it's a big deal though, maybe 0.5lb?

  3. #28
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    I don't think your 26" RockShox SID comes stock on a $400 bike, though.

  4. #29
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    Demo 9 - have you ordered these yet? Any ETA's when you will recieve them?

  5. #30
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    What's the verdict on this fork? Has anyone had a chance to use one?

  6. #31
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    Any updates on this fork?

  7. #32
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    ny updates on this fork or comparable forks and where to buy? Thanks Bill

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billinsd View Post
    ny updates on this fork or comparable forks and where to buy? Thanks Bill
    PM the OP or email him at Home Page.

    I bought one of the 24 inch ones and I'm really happy with it.
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass

  9. #34
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    Did this work? You just moved the top out spring up one hole? Was it pretty easy? I took apart my RS REBA... is this pretty much the same? Let out the air, unscrew the top covers, unscrew the nuts from the bottom of the fork, compress it to get the damper out... move spring and reassemble? Did a bunch of oil spill out of either side? If so, do you know the weight and quantity?
    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    Good call. I will move the plastic piece. My son has been using the fork on his Dj bike. I would have to say so far its a pretty good fork.
    Only boring people get bored.

  10. #35
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    Yes, it worked great. Some of the forks are not drilled so I drilled a new hole a 1/4" up the shaft. This allowed for 50mm of travel with only 50psi of air in the fork.

  11. #36
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    Did you have to totally disassemble? Or could I just remove the top caps and compress to access the spring? Avoid dumping the oil...
    Sorry, I am just not that experienced in working on forks. Your pictures are helpful but I could use a little guidance to give me some confidence. Maybe a quick summary might help me and others? No need for pics. Thanks.... I did buy the fork from you so thanks for that! It's great. Weather is warming up and I am looking forward to more rides with my son.


    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    Yes, it worked great. Some of the forks are not drilled so I drilled a new hole a 1/4" up the shaft. This allowed for 50mm of travel with only 50psi of air in the fork.
    Only boring people get bored.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    Yes, it worked great. Some of the forks are not drilled so I drilled a new hole a 1/4" up the shaft. This allowed for 50mm of travel with only 50psi of air in the fork.
    Any tips on getting the air side shaft out. I can remove the drive side (lock out cartridge) with no problem but can not get the plunger on the air side above the fork crown and the hex bolt at the bottom just turns the entire assembly. It neither loosens or tightens it. It comes as close as the bottom of the threads on the crown.

    Mine gets about 30mm of travel but has another 10mm of negative travel that is too notchy to get into. (unless you pull down). Hoping to move the top out bumper up to add some travel.

  13. #38
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    I am planning on doing this next time I get a chance to my son's spinner air 24.
    Did any oil spill out of either side?
    I would wait until someone else with experience chimes in, but on some forks you bang the air side rod up out of the lowers with a rubber mallet. It is stuck in there to provide a good air seal. Be careful not to lose or mess up any o-rings.

    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    Any tips on getting the air side shaft out. I can remove the drive side (lock out cartridge) with no problem but can not get the plunger on the air side above the fork crown and the hex bolt at the bottom just turns the entire assembly. It neither loosens or tightens it. It comes as close as the bottom of the threads on the crown.

    Mine gets about 30mm of travel but has another 10mm of negative travel that is too notchy to get into. (unless you pull down). Hoping to move the top out bumper up to add some travel.
    Only boring people get bored.

  14. #39
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    There was few ml's of oil in the top of the air (non drive) side. None in the lock out side. There is no porting for the oil so I am assuming its more a lubricant than suspension fluid (hence no rebound control). I did replace with 5 wt sram oil hoping it would provide the needed lubricant and as little additional dampening as possible . I keep a large beaker for fork oil changes and planned on catching what came out (as much as possible at least). I was surprised how little came out.

    I was pressed for time and had the fork still on the bike. I think pulling the fork and banging the the lowers may be the right approach. The lower bolt is slightly loose and I am worried the fork will eventually develop play, wear the seals, and start loosing air if any air gets below the plunger. I also think there could be a bit of air in the bottom chamber acting essentially as a negative spring pulling the fork down 10mm.

    The fork has promise but seems like a little more work by Spinner (and maybe an extra $20-$50) could have really added to the forks potential. Ditch the lock out, replace with rebound, and reconfigure the top out spring.

  15. #40
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    If you let out the air and remove the cap on the air side, then compress the fork, does the rod pop out the top far enough to access the spring to move it? That is what I was planning on doing. I figure it should since it limits the travel. I was just not sure if I could get it reinstalled back on the other hole with this approach.

    I agree that this fork could much better with just a little more effort. But it is much better than the fork that came on the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    There was few ml's of oil in the top of the air (non drive) side. None in the lock out side. There is no porting for the oil so I am assuming its more a lubricant than suspension fluid (hence no rebound control). I did replace with 5 wt sram oil hoping it would provide the needed lubricant and as little additional dampening as possible . I keep a large beaker for fork oil changes and planned on catching what came out (as much as possible at least). I was surprised how little came out.

    I was pressed for time and had the fork still on the bike. I think pulling the fork and banging the the lowers may be the right approach. The lower bolt is slightly loose and I am worried the fork will eventually develop play, wear the seals, and start loosing air if any air gets below the plunger. I also think there could be a bit of air in the bottom chamber acting essentially as a negative spring pulling the fork down 10mm.

    The fork has promise but seems like a little more work by Spinner (and maybe an extra $20-$50) could have really added to the forks potential. Ditch the lock out, replace with rebound, and reconfigure the top out spring.
    Only boring people get bored.

  16. #41
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    I could not get the air side to pop out enough to grab. Having the fork on the bike with the bike on the repair stand added some flex to the equation but I compressed it pretty hard. I think I will have to pull the fork when I try again in hopes of getting more leverage and a more solid working environment.

    Looking at the pictures again in this thread it looks like the OP pulled the top assembly off with out taking out the internals. I was approaching like a typical fork where you essentially have to open up the top first, remover the dampening and springs (air or coil), then remove the bottom. I am still concerned that I can neither tighten nor loosen the air side bottom bolt.

  17. #42
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    try using a ratchet strap around the lower arch and the top tube to compress the fork. if you don't have the strap, just use a belt or something.
    i am hoping you figure it out so the job is easy for me!

    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    I could not get the air side to pop out enough to grab. Having the fork on the bike with the bike on the repair stand added some flex to the equation but I compressed it pretty hard. I think I will have to pull the fork when I try again in hopes of getting more leverage and a more solid working environment.

    Looking at the pictures again in this thread it looks like the OP pulled the top assembly off with out taking out the internals. I was approaching like a typical fork where you essentially have to open up the top first, remover the dampening and springs (air or coil), then remove the bottom. I am still concerned that I can neither tighten nor loosen the air side bottom bolt.
    Only boring people get bored.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by jh_on_the_cape View Post
    try using a ratchet strap around the lower arch and the top tube to compress the fork. if you don't have the strap, just use a belt or something.
    i am hoping you figure it out so the job is easy for me!
    Good idea on the strap.

    I will probably try this weekend again. Worst case I can always use as an excuse to go for the MRP/Whitebrothers fork. I will take some pics this time.

  19. #44
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    I'm not familiar with the design, but generally when the air rod on an air fork spins in the lowers, I put the air cap back on and re-inflate the air piston (make sure you've also got the cartridge installed to prevent the fork from flying apart). With some pressure in the air piston, it should stop the piston rod from turning and you should be able to remove the lower bolt.

  20. #45
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    Took another stab at getting the air piston out with no luck. Tried everything could think of including:

    1-airing up to 100 PSI (max recommended)
    2- ratchet strap - the piston will not pop above the threads despite a pretty solid force
    3-using a drill with a 6mm chuck. Was hoping I could spin the bolt faster than the piston but no luck.
    4-tried removing the lowers with out loosening the tops and tried the reverse

    I can neither tighten nor loosen the bolt. Its almost like it was cross thread at the factory or seized since.

    Seems like the only option is to come up with something to press against the flat plastic top of the piston to keep it from spinning. I think it will take a fair amount of force and I don't want to damage the piston or seals. I assume getting parts would be very tough. It is looking like I will be living with the fork in stock mode for the time being.

    I'm stumped on this one.

  21. #46
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    I bought one of these from Demo9 over a year ago and from day one it did not work all that well. I took it apart and lubed it up. Still not that great of action, but I just chalked it up to cheap fork and kept in on the bike. Recently just bought a new Spawn 20" which came with the same fork. I was amazed at how well this one works. Smooth action with only 50psi. It worked so well i took the older one back apart and found spiral scoring in the left lower. I thought this could be the stiction issue, but decided to run a few tests before i put the lowers back on. I inserted ONLY the right lower onto the right upper and it slides very nice. Did the same with the left side and also slides really nice despite the scoring. Its when both legs are inserted the fork becomes super sticky. Its does not slide easy even with no air.

    I am not a novice mechanic and have rebuilt many forks, but I am stuck on this one. It seems that maybe something is out of alignment. With no US representation for Spinner, I am not sure where to turn next.

    Any ideas?

    adam

  22. #47
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    measure with calipers to determine if the stanchions are parallel, you might be able to tweak the alignment with a bit of force. Also possible that the lowers are not aligned with eachother side-to-side. Perhaps try swaping lowers/uppers with your good fork to isolate the problem.

  23. #48
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    Well I talked to Brian (Demo9) about this and he really stepped up and sent a complete new fork. Thanks for the great customer support on this. Once I pull the old one off I will throw calipers at it to see what is really wrong.

  24. #49
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    Adamm3, that sounds like my exact feelings toward the Spinner Air 20" fork too. Brian sent me a new modified air ram that basically increased the volume of the air spring, so that I could drop the pressure down from 100 to 50 psi, but that didn't do much. If I put the pressure any lower than that, it doesn't come back up to the full height after compressing. I have to put a decent amount of force into it to make it budge, as it seems to have a lot of friction in it's travel. The only time my daughter gets anything out of it, is when she is going off a 6" or bigger step/rock/curb. So definitely anxious to hear what you can find, and have hopes I can make this POS fork useable for it's intended use.

  25. #50
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    We got the spinner air out for its first trail ride yesterday. It held 60 psi for a week in the garage but half a mile in would not rebound & appeared to have no air. Pumped back to 60 & bled off again in a couple hundred yards. Repumped to 75-80 & seemed to hold this time. Finished the ride. (Fwiw was 52 lb rider)

    This fork really stumps me. Wishing I had opted for the white brothers at this point. Just now sure how reliable the spinner is going to be.

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