Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 26 to 44 of 44
  1. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: tyrebyter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    309
    A three pound fork heavy? Am I missing something?

  2. #27
    Wēk Ss
    Reputation: IAmHolland's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    2,433
    Quote Originally Posted by tyrebyter View Post
    A three pound fork heavy? Am I missing something?
    Yes, you're missing something. There's just a comparison to the coil fork version.

    The air fork is 3.3lbs. The coil fork is 1900+g. The kid's forks that come with the bikes are coil and heavy.

    Also 1500g is the weight of my 26" RockShox SID fork. One would hope that a 20" fork is lighter, being smaller and less material. I don't think it's a big deal though, maybe 0.5lb?

  3. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    107
    I don't think your 26" RockShox SID comes stock on a $400 bike, though.

  4. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    176
    Demo 9 - have you ordered these yet? Any ETA's when you will recieve them?

  5. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    34
    What's the verdict on this fork? Has anyone had a chance to use one?

  6. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,348
    Any updates on this fork?

  7. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    309
    ny updates on this fork or comparable forks and where to buy? Thanks Bill

  8. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    3,007
    Quote Originally Posted by Billinsd View Post
    ny updates on this fork or comparable forks and where to buy? Thanks Bill
    PM the OP or email him at Home Page.

    I bought one of the 24 inch ones and I'm really happy with it.
    13 Lenz Lunchbox punkass
    12 TallboyC Frame for Sale-Large

  9. #34
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,039
    Did this work? You just moved the top out spring up one hole? Was it pretty easy? I took apart my RS REBA... is this pretty much the same? Let out the air, unscrew the top covers, unscrew the nuts from the bottom of the fork, compress it to get the damper out... move spring and reassemble? Did a bunch of oil spill out of either side? If so, do you know the weight and quantity?
    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    Good call. I will move the plastic piece. My son has been using the fork on his Dj bike. I would have to say so far its a pretty good fork.
    Only boring people get bored.

  10. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    193
    Yes, it worked great. Some of the forks are not drilled so I drilled a new hole a 1/4" up the shaft. This allowed for 50mm of travel with only 50psi of air in the fork.

  11. #36
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,039
    Did you have to totally disassemble? Or could I just remove the top caps and compress to access the spring? Avoid dumping the oil...
    Sorry, I am just not that experienced in working on forks. Your pictures are helpful but I could use a little guidance to give me some confidence. Maybe a quick summary might help me and others? No need for pics. Thanks.... I did buy the fork from you so thanks for that! It's great. Weather is warming up and I am looking forward to more rides with my son.


    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    Yes, it worked great. Some of the forks are not drilled so I drilled a new hole a 1/4" up the shaft. This allowed for 50mm of travel with only 50psi of air in the fork.
    Only boring people get bored.

  12. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: string's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,509
    Quote Originally Posted by Demo9 View Post
    Yes, it worked great. Some of the forks are not drilled so I drilled a new hole a 1/4" up the shaft. This allowed for 50mm of travel with only 50psi of air in the fork.
    Any tips on getting the air side shaft out. I can remove the drive side (lock out cartridge) with no problem but can not get the plunger on the air side above the fork crown and the hex bolt at the bottom just turns the entire assembly. It neither loosens or tightens it. It comes as close as the bottom of the threads on the crown.

    Mine gets about 30mm of travel but has another 10mm of negative travel that is too notchy to get into. (unless you pull down). Hoping to move the top out bumper up to add some travel.

  13. #38
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,039
    I am planning on doing this next time I get a chance to my son's spinner air 24.
    Did any oil spill out of either side?
    I would wait until someone else with experience chimes in, but on some forks you bang the air side rod up out of the lowers with a rubber mallet. It is stuck in there to provide a good air seal. Be careful not to lose or mess up any o-rings.

    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    Any tips on getting the air side shaft out. I can remove the drive side (lock out cartridge) with no problem but can not get the plunger on the air side above the fork crown and the hex bolt at the bottom just turns the entire assembly. It neither loosens or tightens it. It comes as close as the bottom of the threads on the crown.

    Mine gets about 30mm of travel but has another 10mm of negative travel that is too notchy to get into. (unless you pull down). Hoping to move the top out bumper up to add some travel.
    Only boring people get bored.

  14. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: string's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,509
    There was few ml's of oil in the top of the air (non drive) side. None in the lock out side. There is no porting for the oil so I am assuming its more a lubricant than suspension fluid (hence no rebound control). I did replace with 5 wt sram oil hoping it would provide the needed lubricant and as little additional dampening as possible . I keep a large beaker for fork oil changes and planned on catching what came out (as much as possible at least). I was surprised how little came out.

    I was pressed for time and had the fork still on the bike. I think pulling the fork and banging the the lowers may be the right approach. The lower bolt is slightly loose and I am worried the fork will eventually develop play, wear the seals, and start loosing air if any air gets below the plunger. I also think there could be a bit of air in the bottom chamber acting essentially as a negative spring pulling the fork down 10mm.

    The fork has promise but seems like a little more work by Spinner (and maybe an extra $20-$50) could have really added to the forks potential. Ditch the lock out, replace with rebound, and reconfigure the top out spring.

  15. #40
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,039
    If you let out the air and remove the cap on the air side, then compress the fork, does the rod pop out the top far enough to access the spring to move it? That is what I was planning on doing. I figure it should since it limits the travel. I was just not sure if I could get it reinstalled back on the other hole with this approach.

    I agree that this fork could much better with just a little more effort. But it is much better than the fork that came on the bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    There was few ml's of oil in the top of the air (non drive) side. None in the lock out side. There is no porting for the oil so I am assuming its more a lubricant than suspension fluid (hence no rebound control). I did replace with 5 wt sram oil hoping it would provide the needed lubricant and as little additional dampening as possible . I keep a large beaker for fork oil changes and planned on catching what came out (as much as possible at least). I was surprised how little came out.

    I was pressed for time and had the fork still on the bike. I think pulling the fork and banging the the lowers may be the right approach. The lower bolt is slightly loose and I am worried the fork will eventually develop play, wear the seals, and start loosing air if any air gets below the plunger. I also think there could be a bit of air in the bottom chamber acting essentially as a negative spring pulling the fork down 10mm.

    The fork has promise but seems like a little more work by Spinner (and maybe an extra $20-$50) could have really added to the forks potential. Ditch the lock out, replace with rebound, and reconfigure the top out spring.
    Only boring people get bored.

  16. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: string's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,509
    I could not get the air side to pop out enough to grab. Having the fork on the bike with the bike on the repair stand added some flex to the equation but I compressed it pretty hard. I think I will have to pull the fork when I try again in hopes of getting more leverage and a more solid working environment.

    Looking at the pictures again in this thread it looks like the OP pulled the top assembly off with out taking out the internals. I was approaching like a typical fork where you essentially have to open up the top first, remover the dampening and springs (air or coil), then remove the bottom. I am still concerned that I can neither tighten nor loosen the air side bottom bolt.

  17. #42
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,039
    try using a ratchet strap around the lower arch and the top tube to compress the fork. if you don't have the strap, just use a belt or something.
    i am hoping you figure it out so the job is easy for me!

    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    I could not get the air side to pop out enough to grab. Having the fork on the bike with the bike on the repair stand added some flex to the equation but I compressed it pretty hard. I think I will have to pull the fork when I try again in hopes of getting more leverage and a more solid working environment.

    Looking at the pictures again in this thread it looks like the OP pulled the top assembly off with out taking out the internals. I was approaching like a typical fork where you essentially have to open up the top first, remover the dampening and springs (air or coil), then remove the bottom. I am still concerned that I can neither tighten nor loosen the air side bottom bolt.
    Only boring people get bored.

  18. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: string's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,509
    Quote Originally Posted by jh_on_the_cape View Post
    try using a ratchet strap around the lower arch and the top tube to compress the fork. if you don't have the strap, just use a belt or something.
    i am hoping you figure it out so the job is easy for me!
    Good idea on the strap.

    I will probably try this weekend again. Worst case I can always use as an excuse to go for the MRP/Whitebrothers fork. I will take some pics this time.

  19. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,348
    I'm not familiar with the design, but generally when the air rod on an air fork spins in the lowers, I put the air cap back on and re-inflate the air piston (make sure you've also got the cartridge installed to prevent the fork from flying apart). With some pressure in the air piston, it should stop the piston rod from turning and you should be able to remove the lower bolt.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •