Results 1 to 52 of 52
  1. #1
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR

    finally completed the build and it fits my good boy real fine...

    shout out to xc71 for inspiration!


    Scott Spark JR 24
    X-Fusion 02 shock
    RockShox SID - carbon crown - 28mm stanchions

    RaceFace Sixc carbon cranks - 170mm
    XTR 24t ring
    XTR rapid fire plus rear shifter
    XTR shadow rear derailleur
    XTR 9-speed cassette - 11-34t
    KMC X10SL chain - gold nitride
    BBG superlight bash guard
    AEST pedals - ti axle magnesium platform

    XTR hydro brake lever set - BL-M975
    XTR front + rear brakes - BR-M975
    Ashima Ai2 rotors - 160mm front - 140mm rear
    Ashima aluminum rotor bolts

    Alex Ace20 rims
    Circus Monkey HDW2 hubs
    Circus Monkey ti skewers
    ti spokes
    Schwalbe Rocket Ron - 24x2.1 - front
    Schwalbe Mo Joe - 24x1.85 - rear

    RaceFace Next SL - low rise carbon bar
    Specialized Enduro Grips
    RH+O stem
    Box zero stem spacers
    Box helix quick release seatclamp
    RaceFace seatpost
    stock seat

    sub 22lbs

    he's not the aggressive rider of that 8yr old pack... this little machine sure stepped him up... charging the trails!


    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2194.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2187.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2177.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2163.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2189.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2173.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2191.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2172.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2160.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2181.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2180.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2185.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2166.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2171.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2196.jpg

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_2169.jpg

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,479
    Looks great, very nice.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    374
    Bling??? You ain't kidding!
    Very nice!
    I see you have the bashguard and the chainring mounted on the backside of the crank spider. Is there spacers between the two, or how did you do it?
    I think I may look into those pedals for my daughter. Look pretty light!

  4. #4
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    got my uber bike mechanic extraordinare Steve @ Atomic to do the build.

    not sure on the bashgaurd have to take a look / ask him... think he further ground down the old purple chainring bolts i had laying about.

    Toronto Cycles is the best place for the pedals. they were out when i got them. TC is the least expensive i've seen them and they even can anodize the spindles now!

    the pedals are sharp with the little grip bolts - potential shin scrap there - but uber light, great grip and perfectly sized for those little-big feet.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    374
    She's got some Sinz pedals with the metal posts and so far hasn't had any shin/pedal incidents. They probably are much heavier than those though.
    I think I found them listed at 80mm x 80mm. Is that actually what they measure? If so, they are 10m smaller each way than these Sinz, which wouldn't be a bad thing.

  6. #6
    Heads up Flyboy!!
    Reputation: mountaingoatepics's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,158
    Nice build!
    How long are you boys legs though running 170mm cranks?
    I just put my daughter (9yo) on a 24" bike. I noticed with a 25% bend at the knee full extension her knees were still coming up to her chest when the crank was at the 12 noon posistion with 152mm cranks. Got some 135mm cranks for her and she and I both have noticed a dramatic increase in her power and speed as well as a normal bend in the knee at 12 noon. She has a 24 inch inseam for reference. It can vary depending on preference but leg length in inches x 5.48 produces a fairly accurate crank length in mm.

  7. #7
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    i think they're about that. (don't have them at my fingertips to measure). was happy with the eyeball size. wanted as big a contact area as possible though they seem just right for a youngster.

    you definitely won't find a lighter pedal and the price point is great for the weight. i saved something like 200gr with the switch - ie nearly half a pound!

  8. #8
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    The crank length was a concern. My son is all leg (like me). We've only had 2 quick rides and i haven't gone over all the ergonomics but the setup as is looked like it was made for him. I'll scrutinize with him aboard tomorrow.

    It came with 152mm (which i thought was 160mm) and when i discovered we went up a full 18mm i thought f@#$ [hey can you swear on the family forum]? But then wasn't too concerned because the used Sixc cranks would always work on his next bike.

    The other concern was ground clearance & litteraly would his toe be hitting front wheel?. But this looks good. The 26" fork mounted to the 24" frame makes for a bit of a cool laid back geometry and does raise the bb height. Don't think he'll be doing any crazy rock gardens, nor will severe pedal strikes be a concern.

    I'll measure and do the 5.48 calculation tomorrow (:

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    344
    You can look at the Utah Trikes cranks or Thorn cranks from Sjscycles. Both come as low as 150mm iirc and they are fairly light.

    Otherwise, that is an awesome build. It's better equipped than my own ride!

  10. #10
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,103
    Wow. That's pretty awesome. I wish you lived nearby so my kid could swing a leg over it! Enjoy some happy trails with your little one!
    Only boring people get bored.

  11. #11
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    went out with him again today... and though the cranks are long, he wasn't quite eating his knee caps. pretty sure these are going to work.
    Last edited by biobike; 06-18-2014 at 02:26 PM.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    674
    cranks do see pretty big for a kid - I use 165mm cranks lol

    what is his leg length, about 80-85cm

    watch out for the rear freehub on the HDW2's they are not the most reliable.

    I've got the thorn cranks on my boys bike who is 9, 150mm ones.


    edit - how wide are the bars?

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Clicker1's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    195
    There goes the college fund!

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    380
    nice rig, i just got my sona stock Trek superfly 24 and its around 23-24 pounds - HT of course, not a FS like yours. Funny i ended up getting the same rocket ron as you up front. its been a GREAT tire. Not many choices for good 24 inch tires, i think that is the best out there. BTW Trek (Bontrager) makes a really nice light tire that came stock with this build, i didnt like it up front but left it in the back. Its really light and nice rolling resistance. Traction is ok for the light kids

    For all those parents with 20 inch bikes wanting to go to 26, the jump can be too much. Kids dont want to all of a sudden be 6 inches higher off the ground, which happens on 26 inch bikes especially on 26 FS bikes. I have a sweet 26 FS rig waiting for my boy from his older brother but he likes his low to the ground Trek superfly disk 24 for now. Go figure i would have bet the house he would have liked the FS bike better

  15. #15
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    nice on the stock Trek tire... light 24" not an easy find and the most important upgrade we parents can do for our children's cycling enjoyment. ie. lessen rotational weight - it's a moral obligation

    and agreed on the necessary 24" graduation to a 26"... a too big bike is counter productive to a little one garnering the required skills for the sport.

    buying a good used pimped out 24" isn't as big a cash layout as it appears. resell will recoup much of the investment. i bought a virtually new used Scott... took a bunch of parts laying around / off of my other bikes... scoured Pinkbike... hit up ebay Taiwan... and with the help of my uber bike mechanic Steve... created a machine that really hooked my kid and has helped him really enjoy the sport. nb. my guy wasn't that into biking, nor the strenuous nature of it all... this steed has him engaged and getting out there, sweaty and off his iPad!

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    5
    Hi, could I ask the shock length and is it longer than the stock shock? Any issues with this? Also I assume the fork is for a 26" wheel set?

  17. #17
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    think the SID is a 4"... we've got it under inflated to keep it supple for a smaller persons weight and ability which makes it ride a little lower. and yes its meant for a 26" wheel but works real nice on a 24" setup. it's fantastic. you can find the SID carbons in the $250-300 range on ebay, etc.

    we actually were out today... our new home backs on to Cypress Mtn in West Vancouver and just started to explore the hood. wow. we're talking bike in bike out. and that bike is great for my 9 year old boy! definitely find the shock out there and mount it up. it's super light and pretty supple for an air shock. you'll be able to sell it for what you paid.

  18. #18
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    oh... and check out mtbr member "xc71" he deserves all credit for first doing up a high end Scott Spark Jr build. he's got an excellent thread on the subject.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    5
    Thanks for the info, I am also interested in the length of the rear shock and where you bought it, I can't seem to find the x-fusion in the smaller size? Cheers.

  20. #20
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    i believe the shock was specifically made for the Scott Spark RC Jr (which was fazed out in 2010 i think). it wasn't an aftermarket product. i upgraded my stock Jr to the RC spec'd X-Fusion. don't think there's any other option worth trying out there.

    call Brian @ Renegade 250-483-6677 - they're the Canadian / West Cdn distributors of X-Fusion if i remember it right. he had like 3 left or something when i called last year. shipped to me it was $220 and change. the US distributer has been drained of stock for quite a while. if that doesn't work get back ahold of me... i was given some number for a contact in Belgium that might have something - part# 210325 (Europe side?).

    ? 75mm stroke ? - 125mm eye-to-eye ? but might be off on those numbers

    its a good little shock - though the brackets that hold it on the Scott tend to over tighten causing it to bind. i just leave the bolts holding it to the frame finger tight and it does the job. xc71 did some ti-bolt washer thing with his or something like that... either way it makes for a real full suspension mtn bike. all the spring shocks for that size are fake-believe.

    only other 24" full suspension frame i've seen that could be built up xc/am capable is the...

    Lil Shredder Bikes

    really nicely done but'll cost a bit more to bring up to a worth build. pretty new on the market probably not many used for sale out there.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,479
    Like Biobike mentioned the older Sid carbon 80mm, 26" forks are an excellent upgrade on the 24" Spark/Scales. You have 3 benefits 1) approx. 1 lbs. lighter than 24" spring and air forks. 2) Being able to set rider sag and excellent suspension action. 3) Improves the Geo on the spark/Scales. By raising the headtube the bike steers better esp on faster corners. Much more stable on downhills, rockgardens, park features, etc.
    My son could climb some really steep hills and said there was no neg effects of the 26" climbing, he loved the fork mod. Keep in mind comparing the A to C on the stock 24" fork to the 26" Sid is not accurate due to fact that you will have rider sag on the Sid and most 24" spring forks barley move.
    Biobike is correct that the X-Fushion was stock on the Spark RC 24. 125mm length, 20mm stroke, 75mm travel.
    To get the rear suspension to function properly you need to do one of the following.


    "There is an issue with the shock bolts causing massive stichion. I bought Ti bolts from torontocycles. You have to make sure the shoulder (none threaded part ) of the bolt is correct. To get the correct shoulder length the bolt length will be way to long - simply cut off the extra threads to the correct length. You will also need the Ti low profile nylon locknuts for the bolt ends, this of course allows you to leave the bolts slightly loose with no chance of the nuts backing off. Check the rear end for any play/knocking from time to time. If there is, just turn the locknuts 1/8 of a turn and it will eliminate it.
    Another option is to apply a small amount of red locktite to the stock bolts so they don't back off."
    These pics show the low profile nylon Ti locknuts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_0330_1.jpg  

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_0328_1.jpg  


  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    Awesome looking builds on here! "Santa" just brought my 8 yr old son a 3-4 year old Spark RC Jr 24 and I've been inspired to do some upgrades by what I've seen on the forum. I've got a light SID coming this week but can't get my head around the custom modifications needed for the rim brake. I've seen the 700 to 26" adapters, but can anyone share photos or a more detailed description of how they made rim breaks work with 24" wheels and a 26" SID? Thanks in advance!

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,479
    This one was CNC machined but there are easier/cheaper versions out there.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-v%2520brake%2520adator%2520slots%2520r1.jpg  

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_0316_1.jpg  

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_0319_1.jpg  

    Scott Spark 24 * bling build JR-img_0332_1.jpg  


  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    That is absolutely beautiful. I read with envy your account of getting those made up with a friend's CNC machine (I think it was your post...). Alas, no access to CNC router here. Will have to resort to a lower tech option or something commercially available. My back up plan is to put a disc brake up front, but I'd prefer to stay w/ rim if possible. Thanks for posting the photos. Anyone have a commercially available option? or backyard mod?

  25. #25

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1,479
    Wonder how much actual oil damping they have if any. Not having external rebound damping is not ideal as they could be pogo sticks.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    22

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    22

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    Hi Biobike- do you know what length spokes you used with the Alex Ace 20 and Circus Monkey HDW2? I'm thinking about doing the front wheel for my son's bike, so I can run a disc brake on the SID fork. The whole rim brake adapter thing for running a 24" rim in a 26" fork has given me a head cramp, and I think it is going to be easier/cheaper to build a new wheel and go disc. Any spoke advice would be appreciated! Love your build, you and XC71 have been great resources, appreciate all your posts and photos.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    158
    Hey -

    What size X-Fusion shock did you use - eye-2-eye & stroke?

    Thanks,

    Stephen Walters

  31. #31
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    if you look back in the thread you'll see where i found the last of 3 of the OEM X-Fusion shock for this ride and how to order it up. also check out XC71's knowledgeable comment on the shock.

    there really is no other aftermarket shock that fits this that i could find.

    let me know if that doesn't pan out for you.

  32. #32
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    there are a couple of aftermarket versions listed back in the thread... maybe?

    i'd just go with the real meal deal below if you can get it. and watch out how you mount it. one dude on another thread mounted it upside down and the frame shock mounts punctured the shock's canister. and that'd suck.


    Quote Originally Posted by biobike View Post
    i believe the shock was specifically made for the Scott Spark RC Jr (which was fazed out in 2010 i think). it wasn't an aftermarket product. i upgraded my stock Jr to the RC spec'd X-Fusion. don't think there's any other option worth trying out there.

    call Brian @ Renegade 250-483-6677 - they're the Canadian / West Cdn distributors of X-Fusion if i remember it right. he had like 3 left or something when i called last year. shipped to me it was $220 and change. the US distributer has been drained of stock for quite a while. if that doesn't work get back ahold of me... i was given some number for a contact in Belgium that might have something - part# 210325 (Europe side?).

    ? 75mm stroke ? - 125mm eye-to-eye ? but might be off on those numbers

    its a good little shock - though the brackets that hold it on the Scott tend to over tighten causing it to bind. i just leave the bolts holding it to the frame finger tight and it does the job. xc71 did some ti-bolt washer thing with his or something like that... either way it makes for a real full suspension mtn bike. all the spring shocks for that size are fake-believe.

    only other 24" full suspension frame i've seen that could be built up xc/am capable is the...

    Lil Shredder Bikes

    really nicely done but'll cost a bit more to bring up to a worth build. pretty new on the market probably not many used for sale out there.

  33. #33
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    apologies for the late reply (and to anyone else i've missed in being too busy)...

    had my uber-bike mechanic build up the wheels and he had the ti-spokes cut to length. (which was an ordeal in itself as no one wants to cut ti spokes and ruin their spoke cutter machine). i could ask him next i'm about his shop.

    it's a great combo the Alex and Circus Monkey. and the SID shock for a 26" wheel raises the front end and makes the head angle a little more slack... which is nice for the descents.

    at $2.5k into it with much searching for good new and used pieces... throwing in a bunch of parts i had laying about... all that time energy and coin was worth it. really has my boy at the top of his little game. and if you look at what a descent new bike costs for an adult! this thing is worth much more $. resale will recoup your costs and someone will get a deal at that price.

    cheers,
    T

    Quote Originally Posted by FreeHeelFreeRide View Post
    Hi Biobike- do you know what length spokes you used with the Alex Ace 20 and Circus Monkey HDW2? I'm thinking about doing the front wheel for my son's bike, so I can run a disc brake on the SID fork. The whole rim brake adapter thing for running a 24" rim in a 26" fork has given me a head cramp, and I think it is going to be easier/cheaper to build a new wheel and go disc. Any spoke advice would be appreciated! Love your build, you and XC71 have been great resources, appreciate all your posts and photos.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    thanks Biobike, no need to ask your uber-mechanic about the spoke lengths unless you are in there for something else. I've got the front Circus Monkey disc hub and Alex rim sitting in my kitchen, and several web pages book marked on how to calculate spoke lengths. The snow is finally melting around here so I better sit down and figure this out. The rest of the bike overhaul is done- with disc calipers zip tied to fork waiting on the wheel. Our build doesn't have half the bling, but maybe I'll post some pics up here after I get the wheel done just for fun. Thanks for your collective help- these forums are truly priceless.

  35. #35
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    i text-reached out to him and it was written down somewhere in his last years notebook.

    then he reminded me i have a couple of spares. they're buried in a box in a box in my garage (recently moved). if you can wait, i should be able to dig in this weekend and could measure and snap a couple of pics.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    wow- that would be great. any photos/measurements would be helpful. I haven't pulled the trigger on any spokes yet, and am confusing myself more by considering TigWorld's paired spoke lacing using half the 32 holes. One way or the other I'd like to get it sorted out this weekend and buy the supplies.

  37. #37
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    i'll check the spoke count for my boy's rims - i don't think they're ? 32 ? - and dig those spares out.

    contact me again by sunday if i've got sidelined and haven't relayed the lowdown.

    cheers,
    bb

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    ahhh... you are right. Looking at your photos, it looks like you have 24 hole. I've got 32. I guess that will mean different spoke lengths.... bummer. I was looking forward to confirming my calculations with your measurements. Oh well, I'll just have to give it a whirl. Thanks for all your help biobike.

  39. #39
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    are you cutting your already pre-bought spokes yourself?

    otherwise i'd bring your hub and rim into your favourite LBS and purchase some spokes. they should be able to line you up and advise as to stringing-them-up-options.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,774
    Quote Originally Posted by FreeHeelFreeRide View Post
    ... I was looking forward to confirming my calculations with your measurements...
    What's the ERD on those ACE20 rims? Let me know and I'll do some calculations and we'll see if my results match yours. I've got all the relevant dimensions for the Circus Monkey front hub when I did my paired spoke build (and a subsequent 26" build once the 24" wheels were outgrown). I shortened the Ti spokes myself. The Ti spokes are no harder on the spoke cutter/thread roller than ordinary stainless spokes.

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    Biobike, yeah, taking to LBS would be the smart thing to do. I'm a little stubborn and want to figure this out... plus we live in a rural area and the closest bike shops are 45-60 minutes away. I'm not even sure they are open yet- may still be focused on ski equipment. I still might have to go that route, we'll see.

    TigWorld, thanks for your offer. I probably won't get a chance to measure ERD on the Ace20 until the weekend, but I'll let you know what I find out. The Circus Monkey website has the hub dimensions, but the image quality is super poor once you zoom in to read them. I'll try and measure actual hub this weekend too, and compare to what I *think* I see online. Appreciate your help!

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    Ok, using a metric tape measure and ruler... no special measuring rods:
    ERD of Ace20=500mm

    Circus Monkey 32 hole, HDW2-F Hub as I measured it:
    Left (disc side) hub flange = 56mm
    Right hub flange = 36mm
    Hub Center to Left (disc side) flange = 22mm
    Hub Center to Right flange = 35mm

    Using Don Rinard's spocalc.xls with 1.25x I got Left Spoke 225.6 and Right Spoke 235.7

    Circus Monkey's website has a diagram, but zooming into see measurement is hard- gets pretty blurry. I think they list:
    Left Flange 58mm
    Right Flange 38mm
    Center to Left 21
    Center to Right 34.5

    Using these with 1.25x I get 224.6 for left, and 234.8 for right

    I've never done these measurements, or built a wheel before- so I'm not feeling too confident here. Any feed back is appreciated.
    Last edited by FreeHeelFreeRide; 04-17-2015 at 02:07 PM. Reason: added more info

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    1,774
    The ERD is the most critical measurement. If you're off my 1mm then the spokes will be off by almost that amount. Accordingly, you need a more accurate way to measure it than a tape measure as you can't tell where the nipples rest within the rim cavity. I use the two old spokes method.

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    Ok, thanks TigWorld. Looks like I'll have to buy some nipples and spokes to get a solid ERD. Appreciate your help, the learning curve on this wheel has been pretty steep!!!

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    508
    hey nice build. my wife used to have a scott spark rc jr years ago. when we had it, she hated the fork on it. i couldnt find anything to change it out to because it was a 1" head tube.

    unless i am missing something, how did you get a SID fork under that bike?

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,052
    Quote Originally Posted by hobiesmith View Post
    hey nice build. my wife used to have a scott spark rc jr years ago. when we had it, she hated the fork on it. i couldnt find anything to change it out to because it was a 1" head tube.

    unless i am missing something, how did you get a SID fork under that bike?
    I would be surprised if scott had not moved to 1-1/8 " headtube in more recent years if only for compatibility reasons, very few options out there for 1" headtubes.

    One way that you can upgrade a 1" headtube bike is by using an early 1" RS judy crown with removable stanchion tubes, these used pinch bolts instead of pressed-in stanchions. Then, you start with a RS SID fork (these only came with pressed in stanchion tubes but use same 28mm dia stanchions and spacing as Judy). Sacrifice the SID crown, cut it apart to remove the SID stanchions from the crown and then you can easily transplant them (and the SID lowers) lowers onto the 1" judy crown.

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    51
    Ok, using the two old spoke method ERD = 493mm, not the 500mm I'd previously reported. Operator error seems to be the biggest issue. Once I put the spokes/nipples in the rim I realized I'd been applying the tape measure to the wrong spot on the rim. Doh. So it was a GREAT suggestion from TigWorld, well worth finding some old spokes and nipples. So plugging new ERD of 493mm into Spocalc, with the measurements off the Circus Monkey website, I'm getting 222.1mm for left spoke and 232.2 for right spoke. Do I dare shop for some spokes? This has been one of those "two steps forward, one step back" kind of projects, and it usually takes a day or two to realized I've gone backwards somewhere! Definitely gaining an appreciation for the art/science of wheel building.


    Quote Originally Posted by TigWorld View Post
    The ERD is the most critical measurement. If you're off my 1mm then the spokes will be off by almost that amount. Accordingly, you need a more accurate way to measure it than a tape measure as you can't tell where the nipples rest within the rim cavity. I use the two old spokes method.

  48. #48
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245

    time to sell the Scott Spark 24 bling build...

    think it's come that time to sell the Scott Spark 24 complete with bling build and all stock parts included. the little man has grown up.

    if you or anyone you know is interested...

    - looking for $2000 firm
    - X-Fusion shock purchased brand new
    - Carbon SID came to me with new rebuild / seals
    - ti-spoke wheel set was a brand new build with rare and difficult find parts
    - laced up by best wheel builder in town
    - only pedals have changed from original build
    - prefer to sell local Vancouver lower mainland area


    we'd be lucky if my kid had 35 rides on it and he was a very cautious, non-aggressive rider. bike is in fine shape. it is a great, super light bike that really up'd his game. was super fun.

    cheers,
    biobike

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    674
    if split the parts more likely to
    get the cash you want.

  50. #50
    pedal up
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    245
    Quote Originally Posted by POAH View Post
    if split the parts more likely to
    get the cash you want.
    ya, i could definitely keep a bunch / part out the rest of the build and return the Scott to it's former tank-like glory.

    though the custom build will attract the right parent. i live on The Shore... the mtn bike mecca. an enthusiast mom/dad will know it's value, appreciate what a bike of this calibre will do for their little one, and understand there's a resale in it when their young one is ready to move on and forward in the sport.

    some people see the price of such a bike and it doesn't compute. others get it. most of us adults are all on like $5k and up rides. it's reasonable when put in perspective to the sport we all love.

  51. #51
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    674
    ah so you live in an area populated with rich stupid people, I live in an area with poor stupid people

  52. #52
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,069
    Quote Originally Posted by biobike View Post
    ya, i could definitely keep a bunch / part out the rest of the build and return the Scott to it's former tank-like glory.

    though the custom build will attract the right parent. i live on The Shore... the mtn bike mecca. an enthusiast mom/dad will know it's value, appreciate what a bike of this calibre will do for their little one, and understand there's a resale in it when their young one is ready to move on and forward in the sport.

    some people see the price of such a bike and it doesn't compute. others get it. most of us adults are all on like $5k and up rides. it's reasonable when put in perspective to the sport we all love.
    I think it is priced reasonable for the work and mods in it. This bike is a deal at $2000.00 and sub-22 pounds considering other 24" FS bikes are $1700.00+ new+ taxes and 29+ pounds in bone stock form.

Similar Threads

  1. 2013 Scott Spark 900 RC cool electronic build
    By pumaking in forum Scott Sports
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 08-30-2013, 09:45 PM
  2. Replies: 15
    Last Post: 05-10-2013, 03:53 PM
  3. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-24-2013, 07:04 PM
  4. My 2010 Scott Spark LTD new XX build
    By adib72 in forum Weight Weenies
    Replies: 54
    Last Post: 11-02-2011, 02:28 PM
  5. 2012 Scott Spark RC 29er Build Project
    By rickm in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 10-03-2011, 02:09 PM

Members who have read this thread: 4

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •