# Thread: Scott Scale JR 24 geometry?

1. ## Scott Scale JR 24 geometry?

I'm leaning towards a 13, hotrock 24 bike for my daughter in the next year or so. She has a scott scale junior 20 and it is a good bike. I want to consider the scott scale jr 24. I want to compare the geometry of both bikes. Specifically I want to know which bike she will outgrow last, the hotrock or scott, which is bigger. Thanks Bill

2. So..........does anyone have a Scott Scale Junior 24 or Scott Scale Junior RC 24 that they could measure the following:

1) Bottom Bracket Height
2) Stack Height-height of seat fully extended to limit line from the ground
3) Top Tube length
4) Stand Over Height
5) Reach-distance from front edge of seat to the centerline of handlebars

Thanks
Bill

3. And for fun would someone measure their Hotrock 13 inch, 24, 21 speed bike:
1) Bottom Bracket Height
2) Stack Height
3) Top Tube Length
4) Stand Over Height
5) Reach

Thanks
Bill

4. Thanks, but it does not list stack height or reach. Bill

5. Originally Posted by Billinsd
So..........does anyone have a Scott Scale Junior 24 or Scott Scale Junior RC 24 that they could measure the following:

1) Bottom Bracket Height
2) Stack Height-height of seat fully extended to limit line from the ground
3) Top Tube length
4) Stand Over Height
5) Reach-distance from front edge of seat to the centerline of handlebars

Thanks
Bill
I'll measure my son's Scott Scale RC Jr for you and post the measurements.

Cheers.

6. Awesome!! Thanks!!!

7. 1) Bottom Bracket Height: 11.25" floor to center of BB
2) Stack Height-height of seat fully extended to limit line from the ground: 33.5"
3) Top Tube length: actual sloping TT is 19.5" c-c, virtual is 17.4" c-c.
4) Stand Over Height: sloping top tube so I'll give you three points. 29.5" at head tube at 25.25" midpoint 21.5" at seat tube. All measurement are from floor to top of TT.
5) Reach-distance from front edge of seat to the centerline of handlebars: 17.125" ( the seat can move forward or back to change this measurement by +/- .5 to .75 of an inch.)
These measurements are from a 2012 Scott Scale RC Jr. Please let me know if I can be of any further help.

8. Thanks a lot!!!

Would you mind measuring:
1) distance from the ground to the top of the top head tube?
2) horizontal distance of centerline of bb to top of headtube centerline?
3) crank length?

Thanks
Bill

9. Hotrock 13 inch, 24, 21 speed bike:
1) Bottom Bracket Height-10.7"
2) Stack Height-
3) Top Tube Length effective-20.9
4) Stand Over Height-25.2" measured by LBS
5) Reach-16.1" measured by LBS
6) Height of top of seat fully extended from ground-35.0" measured by LBS

Both bikes have real similar measurements. The Hotrock looks like it can accomodate a little longer inseam. I think either bike would be great. Just depends on components, price and which LBS I want to use.

Thanks
Bill

10. Originally Posted by Billinsd
Thanks a lot!!!

Would you mind measuring:
1) distance from the ground to the top of the top head tube?
2) horizontal distance of centerline of bb to top of headtube centerline?
3) crank length?

Thanks
Bill
Not sure what you mean with number 2. Please elaborate.

11. This diagram shows what I mean, thanks! Reach and Stack mountain bike mtb sizing and geometry
Bill

12. Originally Posted by gmather
Not sure what you mean with number 2. Please elaborate.
1) 30.5 inches.
2) I don't feel I can attest to this measurement as the theoretical right angle in space plays too much of a variable.
3) check the specs but my measuremntsto be between 155-160mm.

13. Thanks Bill

14. Anyone know where I could pick up a used scott scale jr 24 for my 8 year old? I have been looking for months and have not been able to find one.

15. Your local Scott dealer should have access to a Scale Jr 24"....it's the Scale Jr RC that is much, much tougher to find. Not sure which one you're looking for but if it's not the rc then call some dealers and you should be able to easily find one.

16. Hi,

I have a 2011 Scott Scale Jr 24, that I picked up new, here in Wellington mid 2012 for my now 9 year old daughter (we just missed out on the last Scott 24 FS model!) This bike has a very good weight and seems made really well. However the front fork - an RST is pretty plush. The top of the stanchion dial adjuster works semi OK - it does do something but not a lot. Daughter is rapidly learning riding Easy graded (2-3) single tracks around our hills - Makara Peak and Wainuiomata Trails Project so far, took a clinic with the MTB Skills Clinic people and is moving head fast on this bike.
So I am thinking that the 2013 Kona Stinky 24 looks like a fine bit of kit however I know nothing about them, there are no dealers in NZ and the weight of the bike ready to go is not easily found. The 2012 model seems same with different paint but the 2013 looks like the go as it is a logical step up from the very good Scott.
I have read articles about hardtail vs FS but for me, she has the confidence and basic skills and a great head space for single tracks already and our track networks suit a FS bike. She also complains about the brakes as not being so easy to hang onto for long periods DH (yes we set up the angles and lever play etc to suit her body and style) , and the Stinky 24 has hydraulics which would be a breeze for her to use.
This is not a case of old school vs new toys, but rather time and technology. The Kona Stinky 24 looks like it has the right mix of standover height and running gear so it is more a case of figuring if the weight is OK or not. Have looked around at other 24 inch FS bikes and hardtails but many like the Cannondale is not suitable for my daugther as they are directed specifically at boys with the obvious standover geometry of the Cannondale (for instance).
So has anyone have any insights onto the current 2012-13 FS model range for 24 inchers and particularly, the Kona Stinky 24 ?
thanks so much for your help

17. Do you want to sell your RC Jr?

18. Cmprobert,
I think the RC Jr will still fit my son thur this summer. Some of my local riding buddies have expressed interest in it for their kids, but I can let you know if it becomes available. I wish Scott made more of these lightweight RC versions as it really does help make a kid's riding experience much more fun. I realize the price point is high, but it is an obvious impediment to learning and fun when a kids 20" or 24" hardtail mtn bike weighs more than their father's XXL 29" full suspension bike.

19. Originally Posted by cmprobert
Do you want to sell your RC Jr?
I have one for sale in SC. My son has outgrown it. It is very lightly used since he prefers going downhill and has a different bike for that.

Edit: sold to a friend in Greenville

20. Originally Posted by falc
So has anyone have any insights onto the current 2012-13 FS model range for 24 inchers and particularly, the Kona Stinky 24 ?
thanks so much for your help
Full suspension 24" bikes are tough to find. I had my son on a Kona Stinky 24 for lift assist bike park riding. It is very heavy, and frankly the coil spring suspension is too stiff for most kids that fit the frame. I ended up upgrading the fork to a DJ1 so I could take the spring out and run air only, and I went to an air rear shock too. All for less than one year of use because the head tube angle, brakes and 100mm travel are not sufficient for high speed or steep DH riding.

Again - the Kona Stinky 24 is too heavy for anything other than lift or shuttle DH riding.

I ended up custom building an SX Trail small frame for him.

21. My thoughts with my own boy and my friend's boys/girls: DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY WITH 24" AND GO STRAIGHT TO 26"

1.cost to weight ratio
2.cost to parts outfit
3.easier/cheaper to upgrade due to parts availability
4.resale value, it's not a "kids" bike
5.they will outgrow that 24" in no time and you're here back to sq 1
6.did you ditch 26" for 29" same concept applies here.

just gotta find a girls/women frame to fit. kid will get used to spinning the bigger wheel and will have a much easier time climbing and moving at speed.

22. Originally Posted by hozzerr1
My thoughts with my own boy and my friend's boys/girls: DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY WITH 24" AND GO STRAIGHT TO 26"

1.cost to weight ratio
2.cost to parts outfit
3.easier/cheaper to upgrade due to parts availability
4.resale value, it's not a "kids" bike
5.they will outgrow that 24" in no time and you're here back to sq 1
6.did you ditch 26" for 29" same concept applies here.

just gotta find a girls/women frame to fit. kid will get used to spinning the bigger wheel and will have a much easier time climbing and moving at speed.
That's your opinion, but I'll disagree. My son was too big for his 20 inch and not big enough for a 26er. I know, I had a XS 26er frame, even had 24 inch wheels build for it- still too big.
I find it funny that most adults on here when stuck between sizes are advised to go smaller since makes the bike easier to handle, yet for kids the push is to go bigger.

Glad it worked for you kids, never would have worked for my son. He still likes getting on his sisters 20 inch every once in awhile when he feels like trying to learn a new trick.

I disagree on the adults making the move to a 29er is the same concept, proportionately the change for a child to go from 20 to 26 is much bigger than an adult to go from 26 to 29. Combine that with the fact I already knew how bunnyhop wheelie, manual etc... I'll be the first to say it took some getting used and I wouldn't have wanted to learn it on a 29er. When we went to the pump track, I had a lot more fun riding my sons 24inch bike on it vs. my 29er.

23. ## Right-sized bike Proponent!

Originally Posted by hozzerr1
My thoughts with my own boy and my friend's boys/girls: DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY WITH 24" AND GO STRAIGHT TO 26"

1.cost to weight ratio
2.cost to parts outfit
3.easier/cheaper to upgrade due to parts availability
4.resale value, it's not a "kids" bike
5.they will outgrow that 24" in no time and you're here back to sq 1
6.did you ditch 26" for 29" same concept applies here.

just gotta find a girls/women frame to fit. kid will get used to spinning the bigger wheel and will have a much easier time climbing and moving at speed.
I disagree. I think getting a right 'sized' bike is absolutely worth the money. And size is a combination of many elements of frame geometry and wheel size. You make a good point that there is a limited amount of options for 24" wheel-specific forks, rims and tires - but other than that I think all of your points are debatable. Providing the right "size" bike for someone has many variables. Trying to simplify the subject, I think getting optimal center of gravity and providing the ability to move around between your pedals, grips, and seat is what we are after for choosing MTB frame size. This is justified in good books like Lee McCormack writes. I'm not a shop owner, sponsored rider, and don't even own a Scott bike anymore.

I think 'reach' is one of the most important conventional measurements to get right. It determines how much movement the rider can have fore/aft over the BB and ultimately where their weight is relative to the front/rear tires. Youth Bikes generally have shorter reach than all adult bikes and offer the opportunity for the kids to move back and forth effectively getting their weight where they need it. Another element of the bike geo that is important is Seat tube angle and total length. This affects where you can put the seat in order to give the rider the best balance between a decent seated riding position and having space to move around when riding conditions offer fun opportunities to pump, jump' rail turns, etc. Youth bikes have short legs taken in to consideration and generally provide better ability to set seat position where a small rider can have room to move.

On getting the Center of Gravity lower: The total height the handle bar is above the ground along with BB height affect how the rider feels about balance. 24" wheels have big advantage in lowering both the BB height by 1" and the handle bar height by at least 2". Compare any properly built 24" kids bike like the Scott Scale RC Jr to an adult bike on these measurements and you will see how big the difference is.

On wheel diameter: Everyone knows that once you are rolling, bigger tires maintain speed better. We also know if you like to sit on your seat and smash over things - a bigger wheel is better. But if your 'youth rider' is an active, energetic off-road rider less than 5' tall - go for 24" wheels. I think the transition from 24" wheels to 26" wheels should be somewhere between 58" - 60" depending on body type.

Disclaimer: if all you're going to do is sit down and ride double-track and beginner trails then take Hozzerr's advice, save some money and get a 26" bike as soon as they can tolerate the stand over.

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