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  1. #76
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    Yes I'm in the us

  2. #77
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    Thanks everyone for your help

  3. #78
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    what size cage RD did everyone use and what size cassette, im thinking small cage 9 speed, what size cassette can i use with that
    Last edited by snipes1; 05-18-2013 at 10:04 PM.

  4. #79
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    I believe i am getting x9 hubs and sun cr-18. What kind of SPOKES are recommended
    Last edited by snipes1; 05-19-2013 at 02:26 AM.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    what size cage RD did everyone use and what size cassette, im thinking small cage 9 speed, what size cassette can i use with that
    Any, if you have a single front ring. If I was building again, I would use the same setup as on my light bike - front SS ring with no guards (waiting on wide/narrow Raceface, but even current Salsa does not drop chains) and Zee short cage derailleur with 11-36 cassette and Saint shifter (it has longer levers, much easier to shift) - ordered from Germany they are cheaper than 9sp stuff...

  6. #81
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    Will anyone give me thoughts on a single ring crankset. How is the sinz in 140 and which one specifically

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Will anyone give me thoughts on a single ring crankset. How is the sinz in 140 and which one specifically
    I use Sinz with Rennen 34t single speed ring. It has deep tooth profile - chain did not jump without any guard. Now there are those narrow/wide rings that may be even better - Wolf tooth components and Race Face just came out. Not sure what they have for 5 bolts. Wolf tooth makes a 30t one, with spacer that fits 104mm middle.

    Apparently Rennen comes in 33t as well: Rennen BMX Pentacle Chainring at Danscomp

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Will anyone give me thoughts on a single ring crankset. How is the sinz in 140 and which one specifically
    I used a sinz 140mm on my sons Marin. Pay attention to the seating depths of the various cranks you can buy which could affect chainline. For my sons 1x8, I use a BBG Superlight Bashguard.

    superlights

    To prevent the chain from dropping off on the inside, I use a front derailluer with the limit screws set close to the chain. He's never dropped a chain in this configuration.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    I don't know how to lace a wheel. Any body know where I can just buy a set of 20 inch disk wheels for my boys spark.
    I bought my XT hubs off Amazon and had them sent to Dan's Comp. They laced them up with the Envy Lites.



    I running the Kenda SB8's now though. My son noticed an increase in grip after the change.

    Here is what it looks like now.


  10. #85
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    Which sinz crankset is it and did you use 140

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    Which sinz crankset is it and did you use 140
    Sinz expert 140mm w/ square taper. Table below shows weights I took while building my sons bike;


  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by stom_m3 View Post
    I running the Kenda SB8's now though. My son noticed an increase in grip after the change.

    Here is what it looks like now.

    I believe you're in San Diego County? A lot of people seem to like Small Block Eights here. I put 2.1/1.95s on my son's Marin Hidden Canyon and they dropped 195g/290g respectively per wheel compared to the original Kendas on it.

  13. #88
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    I have found an mcs 34t 5bolt 110bcd on ebay for 15.00 has anyone heard of these. what is your impression, will it work for 9 speed

  14. #89
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    I did a custom wheel build from Universal Cycles a couple months ago. They let you send in your own hubs - including used ones if they are in good shape. I sent in a used rear Sun-Ringle 32h disc hub that was laying around in my garage. Went with the Sun CR18 rims (20" x 1.5" x 32h, 406 ISO), SRAM X.7 front disc hub, Wheelsmith butted (1.7-2.0) spokes and alloy nipples. Total cost: $203. Now I just need time to put everything on my son's Spark 20...

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    I have found an mcs 34t 5bolt 110bcd on ebay for 15.00 has anyone heard of these. what is your impression, will it work for 9 speed
    I use both MCS and Sinz on my sons BMX and MTN bike. You can get them from Dan's Comp or JR Bicycles for the same price. He's currently running a SRAM 870, 8spd chain and the chain/sprocket/cogs work well. I have not tried the sprockets on a 9 spd chain.

  16. #91
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    Hi guys

    i have recently ordered the 2014 Scott spark JR 20 (exactly the same as the previous models it seems) yet more expensive.. although i got 40% discount as my friend works for wheelies.com

    my build is geared more towards downhill, so weight isn't so much of an issue in one sense, but is in others, i need my lad to be able to throw it about a bit, and so i really need to keep it under 22 to be satisfied, once the better forks are on.

    New Scott Spark JR 20" Modifications?-full66984.jpgNew Scott Spark JR 20" Modifications?-1085147_152678524934144_95636751_o.jpg

    I too want to upgrade virtually everything on it to save weight.

    options Ive looked into are:

    White bros RC80 20" forks with 80mm travel
    rear shock????
    Kore 20" rims bespoke with HOPE pro 2 hubs
    A2Z Rear Disc Brake Mount
    A self shortened Ultegra Crankset and upgraded Deore XT Rear Mech with 10 speed XT Cassette

    Hydrolic disc brakes probably HOPE or cheaper..

    Can i ask if the A2z rear disc mount fits out the box or does it need adjusting? as i don't have the bike here to check as it's not arrived yet? and did anybody sort the shock replacement apart from the OP

    cheers guys

    ps i'm pretty sure i can get this to fit with a bit of effort

    New Scott Spark JR 20" Modifications?-w6jt.jpg

    if i have to i will make the lower brackets and adjust the top bar width, it WILL go in there, i too will be chewing of the cable stopper

  17. #92
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    A2z fits right out of box

  18. #93
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    The WB fork and Fox shock should make for an excellent suspension package. You may want to re-valve the shock to a low/soft compression tune. As your going for more of a DH set-up, hopefully the fork will also raise the headtube some.
    Get an Uno lightweight stem, used carbon bar and a Thompson Elite 26.8mm seatpost. I ended up using a 27.2 Elite on my son's Spark RC. I only had to mill 0.25mm off the seatpost as Thompson's are often undersize, sure enough it was 27.11mm and the seattube on the frame was oversize at 26.85mm. Fit perfect. I also replaced the top cradle with KCNC yokes and Ti bolts to make a nice lightweight post.

  19. #94
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    And I can not get the brake tabs to come out of frame

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by snipes1 View Post
    A2z fits right out of box
    That's good news, i will order one today off ebay

    i must admit that by the time Ive done the upgrades i probably wont be far off the price of a lil' shredder bike, however, i think every father that enjoys the slopes or any form of riding can take pride and excitement in building his kids bike, as it's maybe something we wish our parents did, although when i was 6 we didn't have anything like this about.

    the Rc80's will raise a little on the front, but from what i have seen it's marginal. great ideas on the stem and seat post I will investigate further, i may not put a 10 ring cassette on the back, its just i thought it would be good for normal rides as and when. it looks a bit funny with one on there from pictures Ive seen.

  21. #96
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    Hi from the UK

    I appreciate it's been a while since anyone posted on this thread but it's been a really useful source of info as I build a decent Scott Spark 20 Junior for my oldest daughter.

    I managed to pick up a second hand bike as a starting point and I've been picking up parts for a month or so now. Given the (poor) condition of the starting point, I think everything bar the frame will be replaced.

    I've got 2 questions for you all though:

    - Has anyone been able to remove the v brake bosses?

    - I need to get the lower swing arm off the main triangle so I can check / replace the bearings and get the frame off to the powder coaters but I can't work out how to get the pivot hardware out of the frame.

    Removing a thin plastic dust cover on the pivot reveals (on each side of the bike) what looks like two round tubes of metal that have been pressed into the swingarm / main frame connection point. There is a 6mm allen bolt on one side...and this seems to tie these 2 bits of round metal together. Removing this bolt reveals a 10mm allen key style "hole" on the opposite side. Putting an allen key in this and turning either way results in nothing visibly happening.

    There doesn't seem to be much of a gap between these metal pieces to allow you to tap them out from opposite sides and I'm a bit stumped.

    I can email photos to anyone if that would help.

    Scott UK aren't being any help at all. If anyone has a phone number for Scott USA that would be appreciated.

    Thanks all

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