Has anyone tried either the beer components or the problem solver's PF30 EBB in a carbon frame (Specialized Stumpjumper carbon 29) What were the results? Did it slip? Crush the carbon?? Neither company will endorse the use in a carbon frame & say ask the frame manufacturer. Thanks!! SM

Having a hard time choosing. Which one will be a better choice for SS. Aesthetics play a part because I am trying to keep all the components black on this frame up build.

FSA Afterburner: Afterburner Double STC MegaExo Crankset
Cons: I will have to replace the chainring to a more reasonable 32

RaceFace ride SS: Race Face Ride Single Speed Cranks 2013 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
Cons: Not sure of the weight but don't think it's far off from the rest
Pros: no need to buy chainring

Sram X7: Sram X7 2X10 GXP Crankset '11 > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
Cons: Once again need new chainring
Pros: Can be spiderless

Shimano Zee M640: Shimano M640 Zee Crankset > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
Cons: new chainring needed
Pros: single front ring specific

Another reason I am looking at these specifically is price. They all fall into a good price point. I have the ability to pro deal and don't want to spend an arm and leg. I am still on a budget for this build.

Thanks for the input!

I've got a SS bike with track ends and I run redline chain tensioners to get everything nice and snug. The problem is over the course of a 20 mile ride, it seems like the chain tension goes down. I've checked and the lock nut on the tensions are not moving, so my first thought is chain stretch. How much stretch should their be? I've got about 250 miles on the chain, so I would think it should be done stretching by now?

The other issue I have is a tight spot in my chain as I rotate the cranks through. I've isolated it to the rear hub as it seems to occur once per hub revolution and is indifferent to the chainring centering. I've also tried several cogs from cheap stamped steel to a nice surly cog. It's a pretty cheap rear hub, so is it possible that it is not completely round? Should I just tear the free hub apart to make sure its not a bearing or some other issue?

Any advice is appreciated.