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  1. #1
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    Enduro racing 3x10 vs 2x10

    Want to start endure racing, was wondering if most of the endure racers out there ride with a 3x10 or 2x10. Why?

  2. #2
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    I would be surprised to hear if many riders are going 3x10. With the advent of 10 speed, 2x10 is more than enough gear range, even for monster climbs like we have here in Colorado. One could even make the argument for 1x10 or 1x11.
    Last edited by gbug; 10-27-2013 at 10:30 AM.
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  3. #3
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    1x10. No worry about the front gears, no noise against the front derailleur, less weight, less worry. I will never have a front derailleur on any of my bikes again. Still easy to push up hills even more so if you have 1x11. Never ran out of gears down a hill either.

  4. #4
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    Enduro racing 3x10 vs 2x10

    Have not seen a lot of 3x10..... Mostly 2x10 or 1x10 or 1x11. 3 up front is way over the top. I still use 2x9 and love my granny as it keeps my knees alive on long transfers. 1x11 could work but it's costly. Personally I don't have any issues with my front derailleur, but a single ring up front does look very clean.

  5. #5
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    1x10 here, in the BME, we spend most of our time on DH courses... typically not a ton of seated pedaling anyways with some exceptions.

  6. #6
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    1x10 or 1x11 dominates these races. Of the 8 runs I tried with 2x10 XTR+clutch RD I lost the chain on 4 of them. These were not the roughest courses either. Compare that to my regular riding where I never once lost a chain in 5 months of riding much rougher trails.

  7. #7
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    Salespuke does the problem with chain drop on a 2x10 seem to be the general consensus with most enduro riders? Is this the biggest reason most go with a 1x10?

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    Vast majority of people racing to do well, ie not doing it for the experience or just fun with friends, are on a 1x something rig. There's a few exceptions depending on the individual race, but a 1x with guide is as fool-proof as you get. Losing a race because of a lost chain sucks.

  9. #9
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    I don't think chain drop on 2x9/10 is such a big problem.At least not with some decent chain retention.At least I didn't notice it in races I've been to.

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  10. #10
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    To answer your question from my experience running the most trouble free set-up is the best way to go! I lost my chain twice on the last run of the last race I did and that was running 2x10 XT with a brand new Shadow XT RD. Thinking that I might have to run a guide in the future for race day!

  11. #11
    lidless ascender
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    Obviously, one ring & chainguide in the front is something the majority of pros use.A lot of it has to do with max chain security with lower weight being a nice side benefit, but you need to factor in the fitness these riders have, too.

    Btw, a clutch derrailleur on a 2x9/10 system doesn't count as chain retention, a dual ring chainguide and/or a bashring (or at least a Bionicon-type chainguide), on the other hand, will do the trick.

    Marko
    I asked God for a bike, but I know God doesn't work that way. So I stole a bike and asked for forgiveness.

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  12. #12
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    1x10 or 1x11.

    IMO 3xanything on bike is a thing of the past.

    2x10 is nice for some xc epics. although a 1x11 with a 10-42 rear cassette and 32 chainring would also suffice.

    i'll change my front chainring depending on where i'm riding. 1x9/10/11 does require stronger legs.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlf.ski.bike.sail View Post
    IMO 3xanything on bike is a thing of the past.
    Very true. When I had 3 chainrings up front, I never used the 3rd one whatsoever. For me, a 2x10 setup works well. I have no issues with dropped chain.

  14. #14
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    I am sold on 2x10.
    38 gives me plenty of gear on the downhills and the 24 is great for the up hills.

    I did have 3x10 on there at the start of the season (22/32/42) and I found myself in the 32 most of the time and used the 42 more than the 22, agree 3x10 is not needed.

    I have an XT shadow + and did 5 enduros and 3 Super D's, all were pretty rough and I can only think of one time I lost my chain. A couple of times I bumped the shifter with my thumb and it went to the 24, that was just a change in shifter location.

    1x11 appears to work, but I would need a few days on to see if it is for me.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnyolo View Post
    Salespuke does the problem with chain drop on a 2x10 seem to be the general consensus with most enduro riders? Is this the biggest reason most go with a 1x10?
    Yep, that is exactly it. Even if it only happens once it is one time too many. If you are fighting for podiums and have to give up 20 seconds to get the chain back on you might as well cruise the rest of the day. That time is the difference between being on the box and 15th place.

  16. #16
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    Who wants to swap me for my XT 3x10 crankset? Never knew I was the only one still running 3x10. We have some brutal hill climbs down here in SoCal.

  17. #17
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    1x9 is all I need.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by batts65 View Post
    I am sold on 2x10.
    38 gives me plenty of gear on the downhills and the 24 is great for the up hills.

    I did have 3x10 on there at the start of the season (22/32/42) and I found myself in the 32 most of the time and used the 42 more than the 22, agree 3x10 is not needed.

    I have an XT shadow + and did 5 enduros and 3 Super D's, all were pretty rough and I can only think of one time I lost my chain. A couple of times I bumped the shifter with my thumb and it went to the 24, that was just a change in shifter location.

    1x11 appears to work, but I would need a few days on to see if it is for me.
    Yep.

    If riders are spinning out on a 38t front ring something is wrong with the course.

    I'd even take a 36t up front.

    I've been on 29" and 275s for the last ten years though, but can't recall it being that different on a 26".

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