East coast race wheels
The wheels on my one bike are 26" Flows. They're fine, but I'm thinking about picking up a second set to give me some lighter, faster options, mostly for enduro racing. I could still choose the Flows if the course is gnarly enough, but I think I could get by with less burly wheels most of the time, even on rocky, rooty East Coast courses. My fitness could use all the help it can get.
I'm about 180# (82 kg) geared up. I'm pretty easy on gear. I rarely need to true wheels. But I'm no pro. (I've been running 2.35 Hans Dampf trailstar tubeless front and back, but I'm going to try out 2.35 Hans Dampf pacestar front and 2.25 Nobby Nic gatestar back, tubeless.)
Am thinking about Crest in front and Arch EX or Crest in back.
The rear wheel is my biggest question; I'm reasonably sure a Crest in front is worth a try. But for the rear, I wonder if a Crest would be strong enough, while I wonder if an Arch EX would make enough of a difference vs the Flow I have to be worth the $$ and the slightly narrower profile.
Advertised rim weights:
400g Arch EX
22.8 mm Flow
21.0 mm Arch EX
21.0 mm Crest
I'd suggest looking at the 30mm wide Chinese carbon AM rims.
Yeah, I'm considering that route too. Thread here. Stiffer, wider, lighter (~360 g or 400g), somewhat more expensive ($150 per rim, plus shipping, plus I'd be paying to build them up).
Last edited by OldManBike; 10-27-2012 at 10:50 AM.
Just a thought, consider the width of the front rim so you have a decent profile on the Hans. I would much rather have the front end tracking, and if things are going to push/drift, have that happen in the rear.
I prefer the sticky (trailstar) hans up front always, and to have both hard and soft compound rears on hand for the course. We're sponsored by Schwalbe so we always have other tires on hand. That being said, for the majority of races here in CO/Utah/NM, I could probably get away with a sticky up front, and a hard NN in the rear. It obviously depends on track, conditions, and riding style.
I'm not a big fan of the Stan's rims, they feel flexy to me. More so on races where its predominantly a jump line with high speed/walled chicanes or high speed off camber on loose stuff where you really are weighting the outside pedal for all its worth.
Rims are a tough subject! Trying to get the characteristics you like in a wheel, without having it weigh 100lbs is the age long issue I think.
This being said, I rallied Velocity blunts 26" this season on hope hubs. They were decent enough on all but the jump line stages. I went through 2 rims this season, and will be trying something else for next season. At the Snowmass enduro, the rear was buzzing the seat stay in the fast bermed chicanes and that was with the wheels being up to tension. And the Slayer frame isn't really a flexy chassis at all fyi.
Rim wise, for next season i'm going carbon. The team director is trying to work out something with Enve and I hope it happens to any degree, even if its just ambassador pricing. The cheap carbon rims are tempting though. But again, a mechanical with a wheel in a race usually results in a DNF or a last place, and possibly missing the next stage start. If you're racing as a privateer, maybe this isn't so much a big deal, but on a team, racing in pro/open or cat 1 equivalent, people expect you finish and do well ( goes without saying ).
None of this is probably helpful, but its something on the minds of many Enduro/SD racers this fall I imagine. Everyone will have differing feedback of course, and maybe its worth while spending some time in the Wheel building/AM forums, as well as talking to other racers.
No, very helpful response. +rep.
Originally Posted by rodeoj
Are you saying you think going from 22.8 to 21 would make a difference? I figured they were close enough not to matter, but that's not based on experience.
Originally Posted by rodeoj
I hadn't actually looked at the inner widths of the rims you were thinking of, it was just a general item with regards to inner rim width and tire profile to keep in mind so I thought I would share it. : )
I have Arch rims (ZTR version) on the rear with (Tubeless) Trail Kings. I ride aggressive trail/all mountain and thinking of getting into amateur Eduro as well. I
Iím consistently getting blow-offs on 5ft drops...Arch rims are just to narrow and the Stanís hook for the bead is not as meaty as others (I was considering replacing the Arch with Flow but changed my mind due to this factor). I am getting WTB i23 built up, inner width is 23mm...you can find several positive reviews...here's a couple WTB Frequency I23 Team Custom Wheelset Review - BikeRadar
Pinkbike Product Picks - Pinkbike
FYI price and weight wise are less than Stan's Flows.
Hope this helps and provides options to your decision.
I'd consider Arches perhaps, but probably not Crests. Turns out that a mechanical costs you a lot more time than the lighter wheels will save you and an Arch EX wheelset is really quite light. Honestly for that matter I'd skip the Arches too and keep running your Flows, but make sure I was on an optimal tire for each event. You can buy 2-3 sets of tires and still not have spent as much as you would for the wheelset, but they'll make a bigger difference to your times.
Crests are an XC rim for lighter guys.
They don't belong anywhere near an enduro/Super D bike.
-A dude who weighs a buck fourty-five and is primarily an XC racer.
Yeah. The more I think about it, the more Chinese carbon rims seem like the best of all worlds.