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  1. #1
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    Is the Epi's sweet spot a 130mm fork??

    I have been tinking with my 07 Talas fork with different settings and feel that I am still searching for that sweet spot for handling corners and flowing singletrack.

    At 140mm I feel as if the bike is a little high up (I like running my rear suspension a bit stiff for more pedaling efficiency) and can be a bit tricky on steep downside switchbacks. At 120mm the bike rolls the singletrack with precision, if not a bit of oversteer. In that mode, if I don't that the fork locked out or with a high air pressure, the fork can dive in rougher stuff and I sometimes get some washout. The steering gets sketchy of course due to the steep HA.

    So, I am wondering about those who have an Epi with a 130mm travel fork and what they may have experienced with their setups. Any info would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

  2. #2
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    You also need to take in effect your riser bar, headset spacers and stem length/rise. Those things also greatly affect your bikes handling. Do you have a picture of said Epi? If not, can you give the stats on the equipment I listed? Oh yeah, tires can also play a part. The taller tire designs will be felt in the handling too.
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  3. #3
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    I have an 07 Epi built up with a 06 Float RLC with 130mm travel. I purposely built it with an 06 Float because the newer forks had 140mm travel. My Epi is set up as a XC / lightweight trail bike. I find the 130 a perfect balance and opted not to have adjustable travel as I didn't feel it was needed with so little travel. So, I would agree that around 130 is probably a sweet spot for the Epi. My Moment, on the other hand, is setup with a 160mm travel 36 TALAS, so being able to dial down the travel is key for climbs.
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  4. #4
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    When I demoed this bike in 06 the demo crew said that 120 was the sweet spot of the bike. As long as the geo has not changed, this is probably still true - 5" or thereabout.

  5. #5
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    I dont know if you have read many of the past posts on this forum, but i have made numerous comments regarding fork choice on the Epi. I will try to sum up:

    There are different schools of thought out there, some like the handling best with a longer travel fork (eg. 140 mm), but i believe that the majority of Epi riders out there find that longer travel makes the bike feel 'stilty' and thus prefer less travel.

    I have experimented with 3 different Fox Vanilla forks, and 02 125, an 06 130 and an 07 140. Of these 3, i hands-down preferred the handling of the 125 but it Is an old fork and needed to be replaced. I specifically went after an 06 because it most closely matched the older fork, and found 'the last one in Canada'. The handling was not quite as nice, but i felt like it was at the top end of the sweet spot. It was actually cobbled together from spare parts by the old Fox service center and had a number of problems with it. Eventually it was replaced, under warranty, with an 07 Vanilla. And for 07, travel was no longer internally adjustable. I rode it for a couple of months, but it pretty much killed the awesome trailbike handling that i had come to know and love with the Epi. Eventually i replaced it with an 05 U-turn coil Pike. The Pike has about a 9mm longer axel-to-crown (a-c), so to compensate i set the travel at just under 120mm. I love the Pike, its an awesome fork. I occasionally use the u-turn travel adjust feature to lower the front end on those super steep climbs (that i really seem get a kick out of) that take 3 or 4 tries to clean. Another added bonus is the Maxle 20mm thru-axle makes the front end waaay stiffer, and in my opinion, is actually simpler to use than a regular QR.

    I have also spent a few months riding an 07 TALAS on a Titus Motolite and found the same 'stilty' feeling at 140 so i kept that fork at 120 almost all the time (except for those steep climbs). I did not like the travel of that fork though. I set it up with 25% sag to get the small bump sensitivity, but same as you, it would dive severely under some conditions (eg. heavy braking, steep downhill, large impacts).

    The beauty of the u-turn Rockshox forks (Revelation and Pike) is that there is infinite travel adjustability, so you can really hone in on that sweet spot.

    remember that either of these RS forks have almost 10 mm higher a-c so a 130 mm Fox is the same as a 120mm RS.
    Good luck

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsocal
    You also need to take in effect your riser bar, headset spacers and stem length/rise. Those things also greatly affect your bikes handling. Do you have a picture of said Epi? If not, can you give the stats on the equipment I listed? Oh yeah, tires can also play a part. The taller tire designs will be felt in the handling too.

    My setup is a 90mm x 10* stem with a 20mm spacer underneath it. I have a low rise bar on it.

  7. #7
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    pike+ epi

    There are three riders in my wednesday group who tried my epi with pike 454 uturn.Now we all own them set at 125.So if your in socal and see a blue,smoke or black epi all with pikes Feel free to give it a try. We had 07 talas,06 talas pushed nothing worked as well as pike.07 talas was smooth but 120 felt wrong as did 140.

  8. #8
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    I started on the TALAS and I too discovered after spending some time on it, neither 120 nor 140 were optimum settings for the Epi. The 120 setting was ok for tight single track and moderatley steep climbs but, wasn't enough for the steep descents. Conversely,140 was great for the downhills but, pushed way too much on tight single track and flopped around on steep climbs. I also didn't like the linear feel of the TALAS. In addition, I experienced two mechanical issues with the TALAS cartridge, which required sending the fork back to FOX.

    At this point, I was through with the TALAS. I decided to send the fork to PUSH and have them yank the TALAS cartridge and drop in a fixed 130mm RLC cartridge, along with doing a PUSH mod. Turns out, this is what I should've done from the start. It finally gave me what I felt what was the ultimate travel/A-C height for the Epi. It put the bike in the so called "sweet spot" and provided an ultimate balance for all types of terrain. I'm a set it and forget it kind of guy anyway, so the fixed travel was an added bonus. Of course there are times I wish had more or less travel but, for the utimate well rounded set-up, the Pushed 130 is hard to beat.




  9. #9
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    "At this point, I was through with the TALAS. I decided to send the fork to PUSH and have them yank the TALAS cartridge and drop in a fixed 130mm RLC cartridge, along with doing a PUSH mod"

    This sounds like a great idea. As i understand it, the 07 Float still had internally adjustable travel, just not the Vanilla, so you could probably put a 10 mm spacer in the damper cartridge (instead of the regular 20mm) and swap the spring side from TALAS to an 06 Float (prolly already set up for 130) and presto! You've turned your 07 TALAS into an 06 Float with 130 mm travel.

    Too bad it'll prolly cost you half the price of a new fork

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbies
    "At this point, I was through with the TALAS. I decided to send the fork to PUSH and have them yank the TALAS cartridge and drop in a fixed 130mm RLC cartridge, along with doing a PUSH mod"

    This sounds like a great idea. As i understand it, the 07 Float still had internally adjustable travel, just not the Vanilla, so you could probably put a 10 mm spacer in the damper cartridge (instead of the regular 20mm) and swap the spring side from TALAS to an 06 Float (prolly already set up for 130) and presto! You've turned your 07 TALAS into an 06 Float with 130 mm travel.

    Too bad it'll prolly cost you half the price of a new fork

    Nah, the 130mm RLC cartridge from PUSH was actually pretty cheap. Definatley cheap enough not to go through the hassles you reccomend. In addition, I was going to do the PUSH Factory Fork mod anyway, so it made perfect sense to have the cartridge swapped at that time. The PUSH tuning mod(which was the majority of the cost)was worth every penny too, btw.

  11. #11
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    I realized something yesterday regarding this problem. My handlebar was about 2.5 inches below my saddle.( I recently increased my saddle position higher to maximize pedaling). Well, I added another 20mm spacer below my existing stem stack and took it for a test ride. This solved ALOT of my problems with fork dive and handling. I was able to keep it in 120mm mode and was able to rip up the trail with alot of control. Oversteer was gone due to less weight on the front end. My riding position is higher and I am more comfy, but I am also faster due to the handling being right on. I just settled in behind the saddle on downhill turns and it just stuck the turns without any real attention to body positon.

    I can't believe how such a little change could go a long way, I also reduced my preload on the Fox Fork from 90psi to 75psi due to me previously combating fork dive and that improved the handling even more!!

    Thanks a ton for all of the info on this. Hopefully, I can dial this in even more, but for now it is SOOO much better.

    peace

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