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  1. #1
    Professional Crastinator
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    Are your cranks centered? Does it matter?

    I hope this gets noticed here.

    With all the aftermarket 1x and 2x conversions, are people moving their cranks - just 2 or 3mm this way or that - to get the right chainline?

    It seems like you only get a few washers/spacers, and they really only go 1 way, esp. if you have a regular cartridge bottom bracket.

    Is the priority to get the best chainline, or can you get that AND be symmetrical?

    Does it even matter in the realm of biomechanics?

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  2. #2
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    Are your cranks centered? Does it matter?

    I centered my crank ring on my cassette on my 1x10 and it lost the back pedal 42 tooth chain drop.... But then the chain rubbed my tire. This is on a fatbike tho.

    Moved the bb and crank shaft spacers to the non drive side.
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  3. #3
    since 4/10/2009
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    depends on the crank/bb setup you've got. a lot of them don't give you the ability to shift them to one side or the other by a couple mm.

    I have Race Face Turbine CINCH cranks, and I CAN fiddle with the chainline by shuffling spacers. Mine are centered, though. Especially with 1x drivetrains, you definitely see chainring choice is how most folks adjust chainline. For example, RF's CINCH DM ring lets you flip it to fine tune chainline. You can do 1x with a spider, which gives you further chainline options. You can buy a chainring from a different manufacturer, which allows further chainline options.

  4. #4
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    If you are running flat pedals I don't see that centered matters. Even with clipless, I don't see that the 2.5 mm that you can typically adjust a crank is going to make a difference. For that matter, some bikes are built asymmetrically. I get a good chainline and don't worry about it/

  5. #5
    damned rocks...
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    My cranks are symmetrical, and I can't change them, even if I could I wouldn't.

    To adjust my chainline I shim my chainring, easier, safer, faster and gives you a greater range of adjustment, You can even try to shim your cassette if your dropouts have enough clearance.

  6. #6
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    My HT has a threaded BB. I put the crank set spacer on the non-drive side when I converted the crank to 1X to improve the chain line. The fact that the crank arm on the non-drive side is sticking out 1-2mm further from the frame is not noticeable at all.

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