Xtr with crap shifters
I put an XTR rear dérailleur on my ironhorse. It came with shimano lever and shifter combos on it with no model number. Now I only have 4 gears. It just wont pull the dérailleur far enough out. Do i need a stronger shifter?
I may be drunk, Miss, but in the morning I will be sober and you will still be ugly.
Something else is wrong with your setup.
It sounds like you didn't pull on the cable end, and then click the shifter , to let the cable out as far as it will go, before you tightened the cable clamp on the dérailleur.
You also may not have one or more of the limit screws set properly and it's keeping the dérailleur from moving through it's full range.
You may not have turned the crank once or twice, to let the dérailleur move to it's normal relaxed position. (do that with the cable detached).
The normal position will be the small cog if it's "high normal" or the big cog if it's "low normal".
"I thought of that while riding my bike."
Albert Einstein, on the theory of relativity.
Peace and Long Rides...
The model number of Shimano shifter/brake combo levers are usually stamped on the underside of the handlebar clamps. Older ones had it stamped on the handlebar clamps opposite the side where you insert the allen key. The ez-fire models have it on a sticker on the under side of the pod.
Regarding the reduced pull - did you forget to unscrew the limit screws on the rear derailleur to readjust them?
The procedure for replacing shifters is:
1) Click the finger trigger all the way to the end.
2) Fully screw in the tension adjuster on the shifter and back off 1-2 turns.
3) Feed the gear inner cable through the shifter, gear outers and rear derailleur.
4) Fully screw in the tension adjuster on the derailleur and back off 1-2 turns (not applicable to XTR 960, 970 series).
5) Clamp the gear inner cable to the derailleur making sure that the cable is seated in the small groove under the clamp bolt.
6) Find an exposed section of gear inner cable, grab carefully and pull hard for about 10secs. If the cable system is sealed (Nokon, Gore Ride-on, Alligator iLinks etc), then loosen the clamp bolt and pull hard from the end of the gear inner cable using a pair of pliers. This action properly seats the ferrules onto the gear outers and into the cable stops, it also pre-stretches the cable.
7) Now adjust the derailleur limit screws so that the upper pulley wheel is in vertical alignment with the biggest cassette sprocket; and slightly off centre (about 2-3mm) to the right of the smallest sprocket (so that the chain runs slightly off centre towards the drive-side chainstay). Simulate movement of the derailleur up and down the cassette by pushing or pulling it as required.
8). Pull taut the gear inner cable to remove the slack caused by the pre-stretching and clamp it down.
9) Put the chain onto the smallest front chainring and spin the cranks as if you were pedalling and thumb click the shifter to change gear. If it doen't change (ie chain does not move smoothly onto the next sprocket), then add tension to the gear cable by using one of the tension adjusters (I use the one on the derailleur first myself). Adjust only a little at a time.
10) Keep spinning the cranks and click the finger trigger to see if it will change back to its original position. If it doesn't, then add a little slack until it does.
11) Thumb click to change gear again. From here, see if you can continue changing onto the next sprocket one at a time until you reach the end. Add or remove cable tension as required. Then repeat going the other way.
12) Now repeat the gear changes up and down the cassette for the biggest chainring.
13) Check the adjustments using the middle chainring. If you have found the optimum point where the gear changes work for the smallest and biggest chainring, then it will work for the middle.
14) Trim the excess gear cable and put an end crimp onto the end of the cable to prevent it from fraying. Use a spot of super glue if you haven't got an end crimp.