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  1. #1
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    Reputation: Appendage's Avatar
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    It worked perfectly until I fixed it!

    The moral of the story is, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

    My drivetrain was working perfectly. But because the chain was stretched and the cogs and rings were worn, like an idiot, I replaced the chain, cassette and chainrings.

    Stupid stupid stupid!! Now, with the new parts, it's not perfect anymore. Specifically, when I hit the bumps, the chain falls off the middle ring onto the little ring. Occaisionally, it falls all the way onto the frame. It never used to do that! I've got the chain as short as possible, and I've checked the FD position and alignment.

    What gives?
    I dreamed I ate a 10 lb marshmallow. When I awoke, my pillow was gone.

  2. #2
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    Obviously it should "work"

    So it must be something in the assembly or adjustment.

    Are the shainring on true, (dirt crap betwwen the chainring and the spider arm).

    Did you adjust the FD for the new set-up.

  3. #3
    My gloves stink
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    I did tweak the FD, and that helped a little. Same crankset, different rings. I went from a Blackspire middle ring to a Shimano. Dirt between the spider and the rings...hmm, I'll have to check into that.
    I dreamed I ate a 10 lb marshmallow. When I awoke, my pillow was gone.

  4. #4
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    I have a Blackspire middle ring right now with good luck, some of their middle rings are thicker than the shimano rings, this helps keep the chain on the chainring better.

    I did have a Ti middle ring once that was narrower than the stock one and it had a harder time catching the chain coming down from the big ring.

    Oh, new chain, did you remove the packing grease, sometimes there can be a stiffish link in a new chain. I clean the chain then lube it, seems to shift better.

  5. #5
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    make sure your FD is aligned. When it is even with the big ring, it should be parallel. If it isn't you will have slow shifting, problems like you mention etc. Also, as the outside of the FD passes the big ring, you should have about a MM of clearance. The further away, the worse the performance and other funky problems.
    Oh sh!+ just force upgraded to cat1. Now what?
    Best thing about an ultra marathon? I just get to ride my bike for X hours!

  6. #6
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    here is the set up procedure

    only tools needed i- 5 mm allen an a small flathead or phillips

    The height and positioning of the der should be that it is high enough to just barely swing over/past the big ring and paralell to the chainrings. Swing it out above the rings by hand to make sure it is one or two mm above the new teeth of the chainringalong a full rotation of the cranks. The long thin edge on the botton of the der is what neeems to be paralell.

    loosen the cable on the front der while in smallest gear

    screw in adjusting knob on the lever so that it is three full turns out from fully screwed in

    put chain on small chainring by hand and largest in back, use shifter to get the back gear up

    Ajust the inner limit screw so that the cage is really close to touching the chain, do a rotation of the cranks as there will be some closer links

    Shift front shifter to smallest front gear, or where it would be if it were connected

    Pull cable tight and tighten it back to the front der. Super tight is not necessary as it will be ajusted later. Tight is good.

    While rotating cranks in a forward motion as all other rotations should have been (either with an upside down bike of in a stand) shift to middle ring. If it does not go up right away ajust the barrel on the shifter counterclockwise until when you shift it happens immediatly Shift up/down many times small to middle. Find the perfect balance between going up and down using the barrel adjuster on the shifter. If there is not enough adjustment there, re-tighten the cable with the adjuster screwed in further at the start

    Next shift to the small in the back.

    Shift to the largest ring in the front

    set the outer limit screw so that the cage is only 1-2mm past the chain when in the big ring. rotate to check for rub.

    Next shift between middle and large and adjust with barrell as before but while remembering what you needed for small to middle. Beginning riders need more small -middle reliability and better riders need middle-big reliability

    the only rub should happen in small r- big f diagonals and big r-small f diagonals sometimes in big and small and the middle if the cage is not wide.

    Shift alot and try every combination t get the best compromise. Then ride the bike since when under tension it will need to be fine tuned with the adjuster.

    While you at it do the same with the rear gears and only adjust the B- screw if the der rubs the cogs.

    I think thats it please ask anything you need. Two minute process thirty minute write up

    replacing with stock stuff is the best way to get it right. Aftermarket is almost always more finnicky and meant for the highly mechanical rider.
    Last edited by baltistyle; 11-08-2007 at 03:55 PM.

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