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  1. #1
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    Wide range cassette for 1x10.

    I'm running a single 36t chain ring and Shimano HG-81, 11-34 cassette.

    I'd like a little more top speed but most importantly I'd like a bit more climbing ability.

    Are there cassettes that have a wider difference between the high/low gears?

    I'm quite new to this 1x10 malarky, but think I'm correct in assuming that if I want to alter both high and low performance then its the cassette I need to pay attention to, not the ring.

  2. #2
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    For a 10 speed cassette, you won't find anything smaller than an 11 tooth cog (top end). The largest cog on a stock cassette is 36 teeth. This will give you a slightly lower climbing gear than what you currently have. Is it enough? That's up to you.

    The other option is XX1.

  3. #3
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    11-36

  4. #4
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    2 x 10.

  5. #5
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    Wide range cassette for 1x10.

    Old enough to know better. And old enough not to care. Best age to be.

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys, shall give 11-36 a go, if not I'll opt for 2x10.

    Like the look of the 11-40 adapter but more expense than cassette alone.

  7. #7
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    Wide range cassette for 1x10.

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulClift View Post

    Like the look of the 11-40 adapter but more expense than cassette alone.
    Agreed. Would be very welcome for 1X10, if I could justify paying for it
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  8. #8
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    Ebay has 36-41 tooth machined cogs for $35. Search 38 tooth cog.

    38 tooth stainless steel rear cog for use with Shimano and SRAM cassettes. This is a custom made cog designed to fit behind 8, 9 or 10 speed, 5 arm or flat cog rear cassettes. Laser cut for a very precise fit at the spline. Compatible with modern Shimano and SRAM 8, 9 or 10 speed cassettes and driveshells. Simple bolt on installation with existing components and minor adjustments. No cutting, grinding or drilling. Instructions and spacers are included. It has been tested with Sram and Shimano high and low normal, long and short caged, derailleurs.

    Installation requires the removal of one of the smaller ( higher gear ) cogs. This can result in a minor ratio gap due to a larger than normal tooth differential. This can be avoided easily by replacing your first position cog with a 13 or 14t cog.
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  9. #9
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    Wide range cassette for 1x10.

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Ebay has 36-41 tooth machined cogs for $35. Search 38 tooth cog.

    38 tooth stainless steel rear cog for use with Shimano and SRAM cassettes. This is a custom made cog designed to fit behind 8, 9 or 10 speed, 5 arm or flat cog rear cassettes. Laser cut for a very precise fit at the spline. Compatible with modern Shimano and SRAM 8, 9 or 10 speed cassettes and driveshells. Simple bolt on installation with existing components and minor adjustments. No cutting, grinding or drilling. Instructions and spacers are included. It has been tested with Sram and Shimano high and low normal, long and short caged, derailleurs.

    Installation requires the removal of one of the smaller ( higher gear ) cogs. This can result in a minor ratio gap due to a larger than normal tooth differential. This can be avoided easily by replacing your first position cog with a 13 or 14t cog.
    Since I run a small 30T chainring on my 650b , I need my 11T cog for some semblance of a high gear. So if I want a super low 40T cog, as of now the only option is the spendy General Lee 11-40 adapter.

    Maybe wide range 10 speed cassette options will start becoming more popular to bring the prices down. Being "forced" to go 11 speed is not on my list of options. General Lee still way less expensive and complicated than that
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  10. #10
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    If the OP is looking for more top speed...
    Why is every one suggesting a bigger cog set?

  11. #11
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    go try a 11-36 cassette first. if it doesn't work then it means you're either not biking enough or using a front chainring too big for your endurance. try a 34T front chainring. In my case I use a 34T x 11-36 and it allows me to climb everything I need. I do not suggest a 2x10. A 1x is the way to go, it makes everything simple and you don't get redundant gear ratios.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    If the OP is looking for more top speed...
    Why is every one suggesting a bigger cog set?
    Because he said this...

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulClift View Post

    I'd like a little more top speed but most importantly I'd like a bit more climbing ability.

    and for that reason, I mostly agree with this...

    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    2 x 10.
    You can't gain ratios on both ends of the range with a 1x10.

  13. #13
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    there is always the canfield bros 9t microdrive rear hub paired with a 36t cassette. you'll get both a little more high and low.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by literally View Post
    there is always the canfield bros 9t microdrive rear hub paired with a 36t cassette. you'll get both a little more high and low.
    This. Canfield makes the 9 tooth capreo hub to do exactly what you want. You can go down to a 32 tooth chain ring and keep about the same effective gearing as a 2x10. Everybody wins.
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  15. #15
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    It you can get cranks compatible with direct mount chain rings. I am doing that now with a 28t in front, and an 11-36 in the rear. I list a tad of top end pedaling but honestly I don't miss it anymore. I can still pedal well on fast trails
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  16. #16
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    DSC02620 | Flickr - Photo Sharing! build your own you only need to buy 1 large cog.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by charging_rhinos View Post
    This. Canfield makes the 9 tooth capreo hub to do exactly what you want. You can go down to a 32 tooth chain ring and keep about the same effective gearing as a 2x10. Everybody wins.
    Related question....

    My low gear combo is currently 26 (chain ring) and 32 (cassette). That is a difference of 6 teeth. This is on a 2X9

    If I want to go 1X9 or 1X10 with a 30 tooth chain ring, would a 36 tooth low gear effectively give me the same low end climbing grunt since this is also a 6 tooth difference?
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Related question....

    My low gear combo is currently 26 (chain ring) and 32 (cassette). That is a difference of 6 teeth. This is on a 2X9

    If I want to go 1X9 or 1X10 with a 30 tooth chain ring, would a 36 tooth low gear effectively give me the same low end climbing grunt since this is also a 6 tooth difference?
    I don't think gear inches and gain ratios work that way. Using a few online calculators shows that it's close but you'll still have a little less gear inches and gain ratio using 26x32. not much but a bit.

    26x32 = 21.21 gear inches
    1.692 metres of development

    30x36 = 21.75 gear inches
    1.736 metres of development

    Using this : Bicycle gear inch calculator and a 26x2.35 tire.

    Others i tried were all pretty close.

  19. #19
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    Being somewhat of a weight weenie, I did the math for weight savings on a 1X10 vs. my current 2X9. Only about 225 grams. I thought it would be more. I have to say that I'm a bit shocked at the approximate weight of the XX1 crank set in 32 tooth with 175mm arms. It weighs the same as my XTR M980 26/38 crank set. WHY SO HEAVY?
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Being somewhat of a weight weenie, I did the math for weight savings on a 1X10 vs. my current 2X9. Only about 225 grams. I thought it would be more. I have to say that I'm a bit shocked at the approximate weight of the XX1 crank set in 32 tooth with 175mm arms. It weighs the same as my XTR M980 26/38 crank set. WHY SO HEAVY?
    Well 175mm crank arms are longer, meaning more material due to both length and required thickness due to the increased torque moment. 1x10 is not really a good method of shaving tons of weight, like buying a lighter wheelset. It is a more simple and less wasteful drivetrain that gets rid of clutter and nullifies the overlap in gear ratios. It also allows the use of short cage derailleurs, which are generally considered to be faster at shifting and have better clearance.

    But that being said, 225 grams is about half a pound. Not too shabby, considering you get rid of unnecessary hardware and gain clearance and simplicity. It is all a matter of what ratios you choose. As was alluded to, ratios are not linear. A 6 tooth difference is not always the same in pedaling effort. It depends on the overall size of the gears. A 6 tooth change in a 11 tooth ring is a massive difference (over 50 percent increase). A 6 tooth change in a theoretical 472 tooth ring is pretty much negligible. That's why gain ratios are calculated.

    I would really suggest looking into direct mount cranks and a 28 tooth ring. You usually can't get less than a 32 tooth chain ring on a normal 104 bcd crank. A direct mount chain ring is the only way you will get a climb ratio similar to your current setup, and still allow you to pedal through fast sections of trail without getting a new hub or frankencogs on the rear.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by charging_rhinos View Post
    Well 175mm crank arms are longer, meaning more material due to both length and required thickness due to the increased torque moment. 1x10 is not really a good method of shaving tons of weight, like buying a lighter wheelset. It is a more simple and less wasteful drivetrain that gets rid of clutter and nullifies the overlap in gear ratios. It also allows the use of short cage derailleurs, which are generally considered to be faster at shifting and have better clearance.

    But that being said, 225 grams is about half a pound. Not too shabby, considering you get rid of unnecessary hardware and gain clearance and simplicity. It is all a matter of what ratios you choose. As was alluded to, ratios are not linear. A 6 tooth difference is not always the same in pedaling effort. It depends on the overall size of the gears. A 6 tooth change in a 11 tooth ring is a massive difference (over 50 percent increase). A 6 tooth change in a theoretical 472 tooth ring is pretty much negligible. That's why gain ratios are calculated.

    I would really suggest looking into direct mount cranks and a 28 tooth ring. You usually can't get less than a 32 tooth chain ring on a normal 104 bcd crank. A direct mount chain ring is the only way you will get a climb ratio similar to your current setup, and still allow you to pedal through fast sections of trail without getting a new hub or frankencogs on the rear.
    wolftooth and race face are both making offset 30t rings for 104 bcd cranks, also with the thick/thin tooth pattern. not sure how the chainline is but it's something the OP could look into if 30t gets him what he wants as far as gain ratio's go.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by charging_rhinos View Post
    Well 175mm crank arms are longer, meaning more material due to both length and required thickness due to the increased torque moment. 1x10 is not really a good method of shaving tons of weight, like buying a lighter wheelset. It is a more simple and less wasteful drivetrain that gets rid of clutter and nullifies the overlap in gear ratios. It also allows the use of short cage derailleurs, which are generally considered to be faster at shifting and have better clearance.

    But that being said, 225 grams is about half a pound. Not too shabby, considering you get rid of unnecessary hardware and gain clearance and simplicity. It is all a matter of what ratios you choose. As was alluded to, ratios are not linear. A 6 tooth difference is not always the same in pedaling effort. It depends on the overall size of the gears. A 6 tooth change in a 11 tooth ring is a massive difference (over 50 percent increase). A 6 tooth change in a theoretical 472 tooth ring is pretty much negligible. That's why gain ratios are calculated.

    I would really suggest looking into direct mount cranks and a 28 tooth ring. You usually can't get less than a 32 tooth chain ring on a normal 104 bcd crank. A direct mount chain ring is the only way you will get a climb ratio similar to your current setup, and still allow you to pedal through fast sections of trail without getting a new hub or frankencogs on the rear.
    Thanks for your reply. Of I realize the idea behind going to a 1X set up is to simplify. I felt that wasn't even necessary to mention. I mentioned the weight savings because it was an added plus to the whole idea. But I'm not trying to shave anymore weight of my bike specifically.

    I won't go the 1X route until Shimano has their own version out. I'm a Shimano guy.

    Just trying to educate myself up until then and your guy's replies are very helpful. Thanks!
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  23. #23
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    Wide range cassette for 1x10.

    I'm a huge shimano guy but wolftooth us make a great product . You won't be disappointed, check out the thread on here.
    And I would rather have all my climbing gears and sacrifice done down hill gears. But that's just me

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  24. #24
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    Re: Wide range cassette for 1x10.

    I run MRP 36t with sram PG 1050 cassette, 12-36t. It's good. Sram X0 cranks, derailleur, shifter, 1091 chain.

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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by charging_rhinos View Post
    This. Canfield makes the 9 tooth capreo hub to do exactly what you want. You can go down to a 32 tooth chain ring and keep about the same effective gearing as a 2x10. Everybody wins.
    Going with a Canfield 9T rear hub gets the taller gearing your looking for. It works out to be about a 7 tooth gain so a 32 tooth ring will feel like a 39 tooth. I had a 32 x 9-36 cassette and felt like the light gears are too tall. So I switched to a 28 tooth and rode Stevens Pass last weekend, it's too easy for lift serve. I think a 30 tooth is going to be just right for enduro and dh riding. I'm sure someone here will post up a ratio comparison.
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