Wheels Mfg Deralleur hanger....Too Short?
I hope you folks can help me out....I'm having trouble with drive train on my Trek Liquid 30...It will shift OK going to a smaller cog but when shifting to a larger cog, it will starting riding with the edge of the chain on the teeth of the cogs. It will settle in sometimes when I go 1 or 2 past where I need to be and then come back down. The derailleur is a 2003 XTR m952 Top Normal that came on the bike as original equipment.
I have a new cable and housing.....I just replaced the cassette, chain and middle chain ring...I have been thru 3 derailleur hangers. Two stock Trek hangers and a wheels manufacturing.....Dropout-6. The Wheels Mfg one is actually a few mm shorter so I took it off and straightened the original Trek Hanger. Just not sure that it is 100% straight since I have been told that the problem I am having is very common with a bent hanger....I'm attempting to post a pic of the hangers for comparison.....
Any advice is greatly appreciated...
Get the hanger aligned!
Originally Posted by jmaynard11
The shorter hanger is likely to have more of a problem ("road" hangers are shorter than "mtb/touring" hangers). You may be able to improve the shifting by running the B-screw further in.
The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common
Did you already try tensioning the cable with the barrel adjuster? Shifting down (into smaller cog) fine but having trouble shifting up into a larger cog is typical of too little cable tension.
Also, if you changed der hangers or cables it would be wise to reset the high and low limit first before doing anything else.
thanks for the responses....Shiggy. the current hanger is the original hanger that has been straightened and aligned by Roswell bikes here in ATL.....
Kristatos, thanks for the in-put on the cable tension. I have been thru the limit adjustments and the barrel adjusters....what is the best way to establish the proper tension on the cable....That may be the fix I need. cheers
Not being tongue in cheek here, but the proper tension is when you don't get chatter in any of the gears and it shifts flawlessly up and down. If you have hesitant shifts to a larger cog, you need to back away the barrel adjuster on your shifter (that is, unscrew) a quarter turn until it shifts without hesitation, and stays without chattering. If you are having issues the other way, screw the adjuster in by quarter turns until it shifts down the cassette without issues.
You can also get shifting issues from your B adjust (either a 3mm hex or a screw, depending on manufacturer) pushing your derailleur too far away from the cogs. Again, depending on the manufacturer, screw it in or out until the top pulley is resting about 6mm or so from the bottom of the cog it is shifted too. You will experience much faster, crisper shifts like this. The B adjust is the only other adjustable screw aside from your limits.
Of course, before you do any of that, you should check your limits, and if after all of this, you are still having issues, your hanger or your derailleur is bent. There really isn't any excuse for not bending a hanger back 100%, unless it breaks...I have had hangers that have had close to 45 degree bends in them that I have bent back to completely functional.
All right.....So I think everything is good now....I'm a little embarrassed that I missed this but I thought I would post this so it would help someone else AND make me remember this and not forgot to do this the next time around......
I bought new housing and a cable and installed it and things seemed to have gotten worse. The skipping was now on the 2 biggest cogs on the cassette so I broke down and took it to Northstar Bikes just north of where I live. I had called before hand and explained what was going on and they were waiting for me.
He put it up on the stand and checked the tension of the cable....then he cranked down the bolt holding the cable on the RD and ran the gears.........He then grabs the RD cable where it is exposed by the Top Tube and just starts pulling and yanking on it.....Then a few adjustments of the barrel adjusters and all is good.....
He laughed at my reaction and asked me how many bikes I had tuned this week so don't feel bad.... 10 bucks and it is working like a charm.....
I hadn't set the new housing and ferrules so they were moving (I guess)...Thanks Northstar Bikes and I hope my 10 bucks helps someone out down the road....Cheers....joe
Hah, glad it was something simple. New cables & housings can sometimes take a ride or two to seat properly & stay where they need to be. As the mechanic did, sometimes a little manual pulling will seat things tightly.
I had a trek liquid 20 (2003 I believe?), ended up with a cracked rear chainstay, be sure to check your frame thoroughly, as that could cause weird issues sometimes too if things start to flex.