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Truvative Stylo Carbon & GXP BB Help needed

943 views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  drindiana 
#1 ·
Just putting the finishing touches to my new steed, a Turner Flux and have come up with a couple of issues. I am not sure what to do next.
I purchased off eBay a pair of Sylo Carbon cranks (look like OEM) which came with a GXP BB. Turns out the GXP BB supplied has 2 drive side bearings but with the right seals for the drive and non drive sides. Are there 2 types and are the internal diameters different for the bearings on each side? I have some slight play of the cranks in the bearings (not the crank arm) even after pulling up the cranks to slightly rub the seals on the non drive side as per instructions. Is this normal for this setup?

The other issue I have is that the flux has a 73mm width BB. According to the GXP BB instructions I do not need the spacers. Only thing is that I cannot get the non drive crank to pull up close enough to rub the seal. The only way to get it to fit with the right torque is to use a spacer. Am thinking a washer is missing from the self extracting bolt arrangement but on the carbon you cant remove it. Am I missing something?

thanks
 
#2 ·
My GXP CS/BB (though mine is a Sram Rival road crankset) uses a reducer on the non-drive side which is a press fit in to the inner race of the bearing. I would say if your crankset was supposed to be like that then you'd know about it as you'd have *loads* of axel slop.
As for adjustment, I had to apply huge amounts of force to the NDS crank bolt to get rid of the bearing play in the BB. The NDS crank arm would keep loosening off during the first 5 or so rides, so I'd have to check and re-tighten after every ride. It now finally seems to have settled down and stays tight. Might be an idea to loctite it.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Nyquist,
This is very helpful information. Just checked the Enduro website http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id182.html and found the shim and picture in the linked pdf document for bearing replacement. I certainly do not have this. Considering it sits out a mm or 2 from the bearing outer face it explains some of my dilemma.
I need to resolve this first but am thinking the 2.5mm spacer I need to be able to get the crank arm close to the bearing face is still an issue.
You worry me when you say "huge amounts of force" to get rid of bearing play. Thanks again.
 
#4 ·
I replaced my GXP bearings with the Enduro about 6 mos ago. I believe that shim is only needed with the Enduro bearings.

However, the non-drive side has an aluminum sleeve on the I.D. of the bearing to reduce the size so it is a slight interference fit with the spindle. If you don't have this sleeve then it will be very easy to push the spindle through the non-drive bearing and it will have lots of slop.

The BB spacer is not the right thing to get rid of the slop. If you did in fact need a BB spacer and didn't use one, then the drive side would just stick out a little further but you could still get the non-drive side to come together correctly.
 
#5 ·
Thanks Presslab,
I used a spacer to get the crank arm to pull up against the NDS bearing seal as no matter how many times I tried to get the crank arm to pull up a close it would not. I have read a number of threads where guys had stripped out threads on the crank arm or the spindle trying to get it close enough. I used pretty heavy force and did not want to go further.
The Flux has a 73mm BB and should not need any spacers. This is as frustrating as the incorrect bearing being supplied. A new GXP is now being sent and I hope it works out OK but I have a bad feeling the cranks will fit nice in the bearings but will be able to move horizontally as I will not be able to get the NDS crank kissing the NDS seal.
Anyway will find out.
 
#7 ·
Yes and greased them well. Installed, loosened, reinstalled but I can only get it to a mm or 2. Which will mean (horizontally) floating crankarms, not good. It seems like I have run out of thread internal to the spindle. It does not feel like it can move in any closer without doing some serious thread damage. When I look at the SRAM website the closest instructions are for non carbon Stylos. There is only mention of the Carbon Rouleur. The instructions detail for stylos preparing the crankarm self extracting bolts. This is not possible with the Carbon Stylo as it is press fitted and not user adjustable. I will persist. The Flux's BB is exactly 73mm so that is right.
 
#8 ·
I have a set of the Truvative FireX with GXP on my current ride, it came OEM but I too have a 73mm BB shell - it appears that there is a spacer on the non-drive side.
 
#9 ·
Interesting thanks GreenLightGo. The SRAM instructions say no spacers for a 73mmBB but like you mention I cant see how it could work otherwise right now. The issue I will have when the new BB turns up will be that the self extracting bolt wont be able to be torqued up enough to stay tight without loctite. To get the torque spec'd, it will end up crushing the bearing seal rather than just brush it.
Thanks
 
#10 ·
Just fitted the NDS bearing. Yep it has a smaller ID and this forces the spindle almost float on the drive side. The NDS crank pulled up perfectly and did not need a spacer just as SRAM detailed. As the spindle sits in the NDS bearing it holds the crank side slightly out meaning an adjustment of the front derailluer. Just wish the cranks were supplied with the right bearings. Anyway thanks for the replies and advice. All good here.
 
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