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  1. #1
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Truvativ Stylo Crankset Bearings

    First off, I'd like to say I have a '06 Enduro Expert. Shortly after buying the bike used, I noticed a clicking. Well after further dissasembly, I realized the spacer on the crank was put on backwards! This must be a factory thing, considering I had to press, yes press, off the spacer, that should normally just slide on. The person I bought it from was a mechanic at Solano Cyclery. Plus, from the factory they have power wrenches and such, so they probably wouldn't feel the resistance of the spacer being jammed onto the shaft. Because of this "mishap," the bearing on the non-drive side is bad so both bearings were pressed out of the cups. Where do I get new bearings? I noticed on the Enduro Fork Seals site, they have bearing replacements, but a smaller ID? How will this work with the spacer? The dimensions of the bearing itself is 24mm ID X 37mm OD X 8mm thick with 13 balls that measure about 4mm. I can update with pictures if needed. Any ideas? Thanks for reading my long post. lol

  2. #2
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    Smile Ceramic bearing 25x37x6 from Boca Bearing shortly

    Correction - Ceramic bearing 24x37x6 from Boca Bearing shortly

    Can you recheck the bearing size. Boca bearing would have an Hybrid Ceramic bearing 24x37x6 in next 4 to 6 weeks - this size shd do the trick.

    Boca Bearing have ABEC # 5 bike bearings avail for Bottom Bracket, Hubs...

    Also they have extensive cross reference where you can search by manufacturer & model nos.

  3. #3
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    Save your money and get regular bearing. Cranks don't spin fast enough for you to notice the difference between ceramic and good metal bearings. I personally would just buy a new GXP BB instead of pressing the bearings in and out. It's only 50 bucks from Jenson.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearing_man
    Correction - Ceramic bearing 24x37x6 from Boca Bearing shortly

    Can you recheck the bearing size. Boca bearing would have an Hybrid Ceramic bearing 24x37x6 in next 4 to 6 weeks - this size shd do the trick.

    Boca Bearing have ABEC # 5 bike bearings avail for Bottom Bracket, Hubs...

    Also they have extensive cross reference where you can search by manufacturer & model nos.
    Thank you, that was very informative. I tried searching at McMaster Carr and they didn't have a bearing of that 24mm ID. The one thing I'm confused is that, do I have to use the spacer on the shaft? Would I get a new/separate spacer to accomadate the 6mm thick vs. 8mm thick bearing? The bearing I have does seem to be 8mm thick, but I could be mistaken. daniyarm, call me cheap, but I just can't justify spending $50 on bearings and cups when the cups are still good and bearings could be had for <$20. Plus, I like rebuilding things.

  5. #5
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    sounds like the crank/bb were installed improperly because that spacer should not come off. that is part of the inner race of the bearing. if the replacement bearings are only 6mm thick it won't work, the bearings are not the same size on both sides and i have yet to see or hear of anybody that make a non-drive side bearing that is compatable.

  6. #6
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    Bearing 24x37x6 from Boca Bearing shortly

    www.bocabearings.com

    pls note that this would be a regular cartridge ball bearing (inner/outer rings/retainer/balls).

    id 24 od 37 width 6 -

    in case you just want to change the balls only, you need to measure the diameter of the ball & order the number of balls you need. They also have balls in stainless steel and ceramic.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by brakejunky
    sounds like the crank/bb were installed improperly because that spacer should not come off. that is part of the inner race of the bearing. if the replacement bearings are only 6mm thick it won't work, the bearings are not the same size on both sides and i have yet to see or hear of anybody that make a non-drive side bearing that is compatable.
    So you're saying that the alum. spacer should be pressed into the bearing? Will these: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id101.html replace my current bearings? I just don't know where to get the spacer...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearing_man
    www.bocabearings.com

    pls note that this would be a regular cartridge ball bearing (inner/outer rings/retainer/balls).

    id 24 od 37 width 6 -

    in case you just want to change the balls only, you need to measure the diameter of the ball & order the number of balls you need. They also have balls in stainless steel and ceramic.
    This bearing size has NOTHING to do with what the original poster is talking about. The bearing size you are trying to push on him is used on Campy and on the new XTR. The GXP system is completely different. You have to know exactly how the spacers work on the GXP because the bearing has a very important shim on the non-drive side. This shim reduces the ID to 22mm. It also has a very specific thickness that controls the distance between the crank arm and the step in the shaft. A 24 x 37 x 7 is fine for this application, but the factory bearing shim must be re-used.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2rideride2live
    So you're saying that the alum. spacer should be pressed into the bearing? Will these: http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id101.html replace my current bearings? I just don't know where to get the spacer...
    You will have to have the spacer pictured below. If you do not have it any longer, then you will have to buy a new non drive cup. The pic below shows the spacer before it's pressed into the bearing:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
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    Ques - by using a 24x37x7 - would it still be short by 1 mm compared to the OE bearing?
    What about the dimension for the bearing on the drive side?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris2fur
    This bearing size has NOTHING to do with what the original poster is talking about. The bearing size you are trying to push on him is used on Campy and on the new XTR. The GXP system is completely different. You have to know exactly how the spacers work on the GXP because the bearing has a very important shim on the non-drive side. This shim reduces the ID to 22mm. It also has a very specific thickness that controls the distance between the crank arm and the step in the shaft. A 24 x 37 x 7 is fine for this application, but the factory bearing shim must be re-used.
    Thank you...the only problem is that the factory bearing shim must have been installed improperly because it had to be pressed off the BB shaft...In the picture you took, is the beveled edge of that shim facing towards the drive side when on the BB shaft? I can use your bearings but I need the shim...do you sell a shim also? Thanks.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bearing_man
    Ques - by using a 24x37x7 - would it still be short by 1 mm compared to the OE bearing?
    What about the dimension for the bearing on the drive side?
    The actual width of the bearing doesn't matter. It's the width of the shim that controls seal and bearing tension (the shim is sandwiched between the step in the axle and the non-drive crank arm). The dimension of the drive side bearing is not critical. 7mm wide bearings work fine. The drive side is technically "free floating" with the GXP system because the non-drive side is what locks everything in place.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2rideride2live
    Thank you...the only problem is that the factory bearing shim must have been installed improperly because it had to be pressed off the BB shaft...In the picture you took, is the beveled edge of that shim facing towards the drive side when on the BB shaft? I can use your bearings but I need the shim...do you sell a shim also? Thanks.
    The "fat" side of the shim faces inward and gets pressed up against the step in the axle. We don't currently sell the individual shims because they can usually be re-used. Too bad yours got trashed. Maybe we should make some. It won't be any time soon, though.

  14. #14
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    In that case a 24x37x6 would also work along with the shim. The best, of course, would be a 24x37x8 if you can lay your hands on it.

  15. #15
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    Thanks everyone for the ideas. SRAM was nice enough to warranty it. They went above and beyond and sent out a whole new crankshaft too! Thanks SRAM and Trailhead Cyclery.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2rideride2live
    Thanks everyone for the ideas. SRAM was nice enough to warranty it. They went above and beyond and sent out a whole new crankshaft too! Thanks SRAM and Trailhead Cyclery.
    I don't know if they told you, but it was a manufacturing defect. They warranty it by sending a whole new crankset. I had the exact same problem. The bearing race from the BB was seized to the crank shaft. I took it to the bike shop and let them hammer away at it. The race didn't move one bit but the plastic sleeve on the inside of the shell got trashed.

    Truvativ sent the LBS a whole new crankset but it was the wrong size, 170mm. They were out of stock on the 175's. When the new crankset arrives, I am going to pull the rings off and sell them on ebay. I already purchased a SS ring, bash ring, and jumpstop to convert my bike to a 1x9.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lumbee1
    I don't know if they told you, but it was a manufacturing defect. They warranty it by sending a whole new crankset. I had the exact same problem. The bearing race from the BB was seized to the crank shaft. I took it to the bike shop and let them hammer away at it. The race didn't move one bit but the plastic sleeve on the inside of the shell got trashed.

    Truvativ sent the LBS a whole new crankset but it was the wrong size, 170mm. They were out of stock on the 175's. When the new crankset arrives, I am going to pull the rings off and sell them on ebay. I already purchased a SS ring, bash ring, and jumpstop to convert my bike to a 1x9.
    Yep, that basically summarizes what I had to go through. The seized shim and the trashed GXP shell. I was tempted to do something different like just the middle ring in the front (32T)...but I don't want to torture myself.

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