Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    26

    Thinking about converting 3x10 to 1x10 - Confused

    I've searched and found some threads on this but I'm confused on the advice given, and how to actually go about converting a 3x10 to a 1x10.

    I've got a 2011 X-Cal and I'm thinking about going 1x10, basically for simplicty and the fact that I have yet to use either of my outer rings on the trails I ride. I don't race, just ride for fun at my local trails, so I doubt I would miss the outer rings.

    I understand what I would need to remove for a 1x10, but where I'm confused is what I need to adjust/add.

    For example, If I add a bashguard will I also need a chainguide? What If I don't add a bashguard? Will I need to remove some links from my chain?

    Any reccomendations on specific products would be helpful as well. I don't necessarily have my heart set on making the conversion, but if it's fairly simple and inexpensive I may give it a try. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    118
    Remove inner and outer chain rings, so you will just a 32t (or so) middle ring. Install BBG inner and outer bashguard. I ended up also installing a Blackspire Stinger to limit the chain clap, but never ran into issues without (except noise).

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cackalacky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    515
    For better results, add a short cage rear derailleur and remove some chain links.
    Should keep your chain tighter and less prone to falling off the front ring...

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Icey101 View Post
    Remove inner and outer chain rings, so you will just a 32t (or so) middle ring. Install BBG inner and outer bashguard. I ended up also installing a Blackspire Stinger to limit the chain clap, but never ran into issues without (except noise).
    Have you run into any problems with the chain falling off using the double bashguard method?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,214
    Quote Originally Posted by SpecialJ View Post
    I don't race, just ride for fun at my local trails, so I doubt I would miss the outer rings.
    I assume by outer rings you mean keep the middle ring - probably the 32?
    When you say outer rings, that could mean keeping the granny.

    Take the left shifter, cables, the two chainrings and the front derailleur off. You will need to shorten the chainring nuts or buy short ones. I use a belt sander. Shorten the chain.
    Someday you will want to replace the rear derailleur with a medium cage.
    You will need some sort of chain retention. I've had good luck with running a single speed chainring and outside bash guard on two bikes. I also have one setup with a BBG bashwich. Both ways have been bulletproof for me. I've never dropped a chain on either setup - the bashwich used to be full rigid so worst case and so is one of the single speed ring setups.

    Before the bashwich I couldn't keep the chain on for any rough section.
    Last edited by Slash5; 09-17-2012 at 01:50 PM.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by Slash5 View Post
    I assume by outer rings you mean keep the middle ring - probably the 32?
    Yes I meant keeping the 32t. It seems like going the double bash route is the easiest/most cost effective, especially with the $20 Race Face guards on sale at Jenson right now.

    I've never had to shorten a chain before, roughly how many links should I anticipate removing?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,214
    BBG is the cheapest. You will need room on the inside for the bashring, on some bikes the chainstay is too tight. I had to bend the inside bashring very slightly.
    Home

    Shortening the chain is easy - remove the chain and run it over the two largest sprockets without going through the derailleur. Add two links and break it. Then run back through the derailleur and join it using the quick link.
    I always chicken out and don't count the quick link.
    Take a look at the SRAM manual.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BXCc's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    244
    There is a cheaper way.

    1) remove cable and left/front shifter
    2) remove small and large rings. Use a washer from a 5/16 bolt in place of the large ring.
    3) use adjusting screw on FD to position FD in optimal spot to keep chain on
    4) remove necessary chain links. If nervous, start with 2 and go from there. (shortening the chain is not necessary, just keeps chain slap and throwing chains to a minimum.)

    When removing links, remember to fully compress rear suspension if running a dual suspension bike.

    I slid my FD down on the tube some and used it as a guide until I was sure I like the 1x idea. It rubs minimally when I am in the 11t and the 34t sprockets in the back.

    If you decide you truly like the 1x setup, then spend the $$$ on guides and such. A chain ring that is not ramped or pinned will also help in the chain throwing department.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jesspal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    129
    Is it neccessary to remove links from chain, if i am using same amount of teeth in front and same derailler? I know it is a few weeks old but i figured i would ask here.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •