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  1. #1
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    Stuck Bottom Bracket

    my square taper BB is stuck in the shell, and as hard is i wrench i cant break it free. it either seized up in there, or something. for the drive side cup thing, its right to loosen right? eitehr way i turn it it wont budge. any help on freeing this thing is much appreciated.

    im thinking that the builder (not me, the LBS) put way too much loctite on.

  2. #2
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    I have the same problem right now on my octalink splined BB. the left side has a plastic cup and came right off, the drive side is metal and won't budge.

    One trick to try is to mount the BB tool in a vise facing up, then set the BB on the tool, if its a hollow BB try to secure the tool to the BB using a long bolt and nut or a scewer or something. Then use the frame itself as the leverage. Turn the whole frame around the BB tool, this gives much more leverage but gotta be careful to keep the tool in place with the BB.

    I never worked on a square tapered BB so maybe some of this doesn't apply, sorry.

    ....yeah the drive side is often left hand threaded so turn clockwise to loosen. At least on my bike.

  3. #3
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    i'll try that tomorrow, thanks.

    i heard another trick, is to use a soldering iron, touch it to the cup for like 15seconds, and it should come off. i think thats to melt the loctite that might be there.

    and for me, i gotta remove the drive side first, to gain access to the non drive, cuz the spincle is a bit long.

  4. #4
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    Idea! Give this a try.

    Okay, this might sound crazy, but it works. Get one of buddies to help. And yes your
    turning the right way. Do the soddering gun thing first, but move it around so as not to
    over heat one spot. Then [here comes the crazy part].
    Tap litely [hammer] on the non-drive side and turn on the drive side. The key word is tap.

    Good luck.

    Jake Pay, tap lite Here.

  5. #5
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    Increased leverage does wonders, if you don't have a vice for the frame to be a lever, try and put an extension on the end of your wrench like a piece of pipe or similar...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  6. #6
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    believe it or not, the specialized rep said to remove the non driveside cup first. but guess what? the tool wont FIT onto the nondrive side. so now what?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANdRewLIu6294
    believe it or not, the specialized rep said to remove the non driveside cup first. but guess what? the tool wont FIT onto the nondrive side. so now what?
    can u post a pic of both sides?

  8. #8
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    i got a different bb tool, its fits now, but the damn non drive one is stuck too...

    ...im soaking the cup in wd40 overnight, see if that'll free it, if it doesnt, i'll try the solder trick on the nondrive side, and if that doesnt work im all outta ideas.

    and i would post a pic, but my camera is outta batteries. i'll post em ASAP

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANdRewLIu6294
    i got a different bb tool, its fits now, but the damn non drive one is stuck too...

    ...im soaking the cup in wd40 overnight, see if that'll free it, if it doesnt, i'll try the solder trick on the nondrive side, and if that doesnt work im all outta ideas.

    and i would post a pic, but my camera is outta batteries. i'll post em ASAP

    I just got mine off using a breaker bar over the end of the ratchet handle. took a lot of umph and I had to place the frame on the ground and stand over it to get some leverage, but it finally came loose.

  10. #10
    Ebo
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    Keep working on the non drive side. Use some penetrating oil instead of WD40. Counter clockwise(regular thread) to loosen that side as you probably know. EatDrinkRide is spot on about using a breakerbar. Good luck.

  11. #11
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    Some of the later generation Shimano square tapers I use came with plastic cups on the non-drive side and fitting the tool can be problematic. Sounds like yours is metal, tho...or is it? If it's plastic sometimes you just gotta force the tool in...and I didn't really understand why you needed to start with the drive side in any case, it's normal to start with the non-drive side for removal...
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikinfoolferlife
    Some of the later generation Shimano square tapers I use came with plastic cups on the non-drive side and fitting the tool can be problematic. Sounds like yours is metal, tho...or is it? If it's plastic sometimes you just gotta force the tool in...and I didn't really understand why you needed to start with the drive side in any case, it's normal to start with the non-drive side for removal...
    If it's one of the shimano sealed unit square taper BB than defiantly start by removing the non drive side. It is a cup that slips over the sealed unit that was threaded into the drive side. It holds the unit by friction and needs to be removed first. The same Shimano BB tool should work on either side. The non drive side loosens counter clockwise like regular threads. It may be frozen or bonded to the frame. This happens alot with aluminum frames and steel parts. Heat and penetrating oil are good ideas but leverage is the most important concept. Find away to lengthen the arm of the wrench. If using a ratchet slip a pipe over it to make the handle longer (be careful this can break the ratchet). Putting the BB tool in a vise and using the bike frame as the lever is also a good tool. Just be real careful not to let the BB tool slip.

  13. #13
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    it came off!

    i got a bigass pipe to put on the end of the wrench, and ended up removing the drive side first, even though its kinda like a shimano unit, sealed by friction. the nondriveside wouldnt budge even with the pipe, and i started to strip the bb thread pattern, so i stopped. then my friend suggested i try the pipe on the drive side, and lo and behold it came off, with some force.
    then the nondrive side would come off alot easier. the spec rep was backwards. so its all done and good now.

  14. #14
    pronounced may-duh
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    Awesome thats great. Leaverage wins again

  15. #15
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    Now that the BB is out, what do you all use on the threads for installation to help prevend bonding?

    1) teflon tape only?
    2) Anti sieze compound?
    3) grease?
    4) some combination? Although I would think not.

  16. #16
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    I use grease generally and torque to spec; on occasion one frame/bb combo might need a little teflon tape, too.
    "...the people get the government they deserve..."
    suum quique

  17. #17
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    I'm a firm believer in antiseize.

  18. #18
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    teflon tape on the cups and grease on the shell. it works pretty well

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