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  1. #1
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    Stripped 2 cranks now, what am I doing wrong?

    That's two cranks where I've ripped the aluminum right out.
    It feels like the same amount of torque to remove the crank arm then the threads just give.

    I've done this 4 times now and 2 of those 4 times Im ripping threads.

    I've tried the nashbar crank remover and the pedro's tool and both have done this too me.
    My only guess is the very end of each tool has the ability to pivot at the end of the tool so it's possible its actually slightly catching the crank arm and not the spindle.

    Why would they make a tool like this?
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  2. #2
    thecentralscrutinizer
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    Got any pictures of the cranks. SOunds like you're not removing something.
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  3. #3
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    They're just simple square taper cranks.

    You remove the center bolt and thread in your crank removel tool then just turn the crank remover until the crank pops off.
    Each time this has been on the non-drive side and I've threaded the tool all the way as far it can go before I start the removal process.
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  4. #4
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    Washer

    Quote Originally Posted by mopartodd
    Got any pictures of the cranks. SOunds like you're not removing something.
    Are you sure there's not a washer in there that you're not removing before you're threading your crank puller into the crank arm? Sone bolt for square taper cranks have an integrated washer, but not all.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MillerSHO
    They're just simple square taper cranks.

    You remove the center bolt and thread in your crank removel tool then just turn the crank remover until the crank pops off.
    Each time this has been on the non-drive side and I've threaded the tool all the way as far it can go before I start the removal process.
    This might sound silly, but like you say they are just simple square taper....

    Do you have the remover part of the tool screwed all the way out before you screw the actual tool into the crank arm? If it isn't all the way out, you don't get as many threads holding the actual tool in the arm. I'm sure you know that, but thought I would mention it anyway.

  6. #6
    thecentralscrutinizer
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    A square taper puller is a bit different from a ISIS/Octalink puller too. You might be resting the puller on the crank itself rather than the BB shaft.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nater
    Are you sure there's not a washer in there that you're not removing before you're threading your crank puller into the crank arm? Sone bolt for square taper cranks have an integrated washer, but not all.
    No washer.
    I'm looking directly at the inner crank taper and the spindle on the BB when I take off that first bolt that covers the area I just described.
    Trek 4300 2006
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29Colossus
    This might sound silly, but like you say they are just simple square taper....

    Do you have the remover part of the tool screwed all the way out before you screw the actual tool into the crank arm? If it isn't all the way out, you don't get as many threads holding the actual tool in the arm. I'm sure you know that, but thought I would mention it anyway.
    Yes its all the way out.
    I actually take that part of the tool off before installing the threaded piece of the tool.
    Trek 4300 2006
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mopartodd
    A square taper puller is a bit different from a ISIS/Octalink puller too. You might be resting the puller on the crank itself rather than the BB shaft.
    That's my guess also.
    As I mentioned both tools have a pivoting piece at the end.

    That's really one of my questions.
    Why are they making these tools like that?

    I thought a solid piece of metal with a perfect bore axis throughout the tool to the spindle is what I was PAYING FOR but I guess not.
    I mean, if the bike is stand up vertically while I'm working on it the tip at the end of the tool is naturally going to dip downwards into the crank and not perfectly into the spindle area.
    Man I'm pretty heated right now.
    Trek 4300 2006
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  10. #10
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    are you tightening the tool too hard into the arm causing the integrity of the threads to be comprimised.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MillerSHO
    That's my guess also.
    As I mentioned both tools have a pivoting piece at the end.

    That's really one of my questions.
    Why are they making these tools like that?

    I thought a solid piece of metal with a perfect bore axis throughout the tool to the spindle is what I was PAYING FOR but I guess not.
    I mean, if the bike is stand up vertically while I'm working on it the tip at the end of the tool is naturally going to dip downwards into the crank and not perfectly into the spindle area.
    Man I'm pretty heated right now.
    Are you sure you are using a square taper puller? The two types are not interchangeable. An Octalink/ISIS puller will do exactly what is happening to you. The square taper puller tip is smaller diameter.

    The pivoting tip is a good thing. Prevents damage to the end of the spindle.
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  12. #12
    thecentralscrutinizer
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    Quote Originally Posted by MillerSHO
    That's my guess also.
    As I mentioned both tools have a pivoting piece at the end.

    That's really one of my questions.
    Why are they making these tools like that?

    I thought a solid piece of metal with a perfect bore axis throughout the tool to the spindle is what I was PAYING FOR but I guess not.
    I mean, if the bike is stand up vertically while I'm working on it the tip at the end of the tool is naturally going to dip downwards into the crank and not perfectly into the spindle area.
    Man I'm pretty heated right now.
    I just looked at my pullers and the numbers on them are CCP-1 for the sq taper puller and CCP-4 for the other. They are Park Toll pullers.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy
    Are you sure you are using a square taper puller? The two types are not interchangeable. An Octalink/ISIS puller will do exactly what is happening to you. The square taper puller tip is smaller diameter.

    The pivoting tip is a good thing. Prevents damage to the end of the spindle.
    Yes I know for a fact the correct end is on the tool.
    I pulled off the same crank arm without any issues not more then 2 months ago to clean.

    I don't even know where the ISIS end is at.
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  14. #14
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    I just pulled a square taper off that was pretty rusted. I had to put some crazy torque on the tool to get it off. I made sure I was completely threaded into the crank. Also, the end of the puller had mushroomed some after a lot of use and was pushing on the crank. I filed it down to the correct shape and that made all the difference.

    Try putting your puller center piece against the end of the BB spindle and make sure it completely clears the crank. Look at the threads you've stripped. If you had it completely threaded, it should have pulled them almost to the bottom of the hole. If not, you may be able to get enough threads engaged to pull the crank.

    Spray some WD-40 or other rust release into the spindle to make sure you're not pulling extra hard.
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  15. #15
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    I just pulled off the drive side no issues.

    I have a small amount of thread on ONE side.
    If I try pulling to hard the tool goes cock-eyed due to there being threads on one side and no threads on the other.

    Crazy stuff, I really believe it's rusted on and that's what I'm fighting right now.

    Just put some super duper penetrating oil on the spindle/crank area.
    If this doesn't work I'm going to have to beat the crank arm off and probably start all over again with cranks.

    At least I'm dealing with cheap parts but its that much more off my new bike fund.

    I assume the newer style of cranks/BB don't have these kind of disassembly/re-assembly issues?
    Trek 4300 2006
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MillerSHO
    Crazy stuff, I really believe it's rusted on and that's what I'm fighting right now.
    Time for a pickle fork.


  17. #17
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    Isn't a pickle fork used to get ball joints off of cars?
    I've been trying to come up with ways to get this off.

    Wouldn't a crank gear puller from a car work also?

    There has to be another tool to use to get this off.
    Trek 4300 2006
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  18. #18
    Ride Responsibly
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    put the bolt back in but leave it backed off a few turns, ride the bike around the block or up and down the street until the arm comes loose

  19. #19
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    I went to pull the chainring crank off my low-end Iron Horse (suntour cranks) and used my trusty Park CCP-2 crank arm puller. The tool was screwed all the way in, everything was A-OK. When I applied some torque to the wrench, the threads just came right out of the arm! The other arm came out, no probs.

    Butter-soft aluminum was the culprit, combined with a crank that was installed hella-tight in the first place.

    With a Dremel, I was able to remove a bit of material from the ID of the crank (where the threads once were) and screwed the opposite (and bigger) end of the Park tool into the hole, effectively cutting new threads.

    I've since replaced those cranks with LX units

  20. #20
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    That's exactly what's happen to me on 2 different cranks.

    Those aluminum threads are so weak that the crank arm can mend itself to the spindle more then the threads can handle!
    Trek 4300 2006
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