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  1. #1
    jlh
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    SRAM XX1 chain length

    anyone have experience with correct chain length for the xx1. the directions that came with the chain are brief and pretty much SUCK. the best i've come up with in my search is: "Proper chain sizing is critical to the performance of XX1. When sizing SRAM chains, the general rule of thumb is towrap the chain around the big ring and biggest rear cog (without routing the chain through the rear derailleur) and add two links. In the case of XX1, SRAM’s engineers recommend adding four links to accommodate the cassette’s wide range and to allow for a bit of chain growth, which is common in many full suspension designs and can affect shift accuracy if not taken into account."

    --so, is that 4 links + the powerlock (making it 5 extra links) or 3 links + powerlock (making it 4 extra links?

  2. #2
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    4 links total. The other thing to keep in mind is how often you'll be changing your front ring. If you think you might go from the smallest to the biggest chainring you might give it another link or two. Too many is better than not enough.

  3. #3
    jlh
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    thx for the info!

  4. #4
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    What about XX1 Crank on a 1x10? Thoughts on the following: Pro Tips: Chain Length and Rear Derailleur Setup - YouTube

  5. #5
    JNG
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    SRAM's instructions that come with the XX1 parts do not mention 4 links. Do you still add four links if you have compressed your rear suspension to max travel while measuring the length?

    I did that and added what worked out to be 2.5 links and it shifts flawlessly. The problem I have is a creaking/clicking sound from my XX1 derailleur. This happens most noticeably when the chain is on the smaller cogs so I don't imagine it is because of a chain that is too short.

    Any thoughts?

  6. #6
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    the instructions do mention 4 links.....
    SRAM XX1 chain length-image.jpg

  7. #7
    JNG
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    ban, according to Zinn And The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance a complete chain link "consists of an inner and outer pair of plates". By that definition, the instructions are showing 2 complete links not 4.

  8. #8
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    Is that not one link of overlap in the diagram, not two or four? It would be 1.5 with the powerlink included.

  9. #9
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    Is there any particular chain pin that needs to be used when breaking/sizing the XX1 chain, or will a normal 9/10 speed pin work fine?

  10. #10
    JNG
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    Is there any particular chain pin that needs to be used when breaking/sizing the XX1 chain, or will a normal 9/10 speed pin work fine?
    The only thing you can use is a single use link made by SRAM that is specifically for their 11sp XX1 chain. I think it's called an 11speed SRAM Powerlock master link.

  11. #11
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    Yes, but you have to cut your chain to the correct size/length using a chain tool before you connect with the master link you are referring to. I am asking if you need a narrower pin (than a normal 9 or 10 speed pin) in the chain tool when you break it?

  12. #12
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    perfect thread, cutting first 1 x 11 chain as well. yeah the tech docs lack, mine looked like wrap chain big cog + chainring, not through derailleur, cut chain and add the power lock & presto. thanks for saving the headache
    Go that way really fast......if anything gets in your way turn.

  13. #13
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    is there a front and back of an xx1 chain?
    Go that way really fast......if anything gets in your way turn.

  14. #14
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    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Db...and_chains.pdf

    That link shows what to do. If you are running a full suspension bike you should wrap around two big cogs (not through derailleur) and add FOUR (4) links.

  15. #15
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    I don't know guys... The SRAM chain instructions tell you to put the chain around the largest cassette ring and the crank ring, and then add 2 links + powerlink. It's regardless of rear suspension. If you have a full suspension, the instructions have you compress the rear shock so that the rear axle is farthest from the BB (in many cases you won't need to do this because your rear axle is already furthest away from the BB, and when you compress the rear, the axle moves towards the BB). Why would they mention full suspension and then not say to add 4 links instead of 2 for handtails? I have a race full suspension frame so I initially compromised and went with adding 3 links instead of 4. When the chain was on the 10 tooth cassette ring (w/ 32T chainring), there was way too much slack in the chain. I had to go with 2 links + powerlink. You might get away with not using the smallest cassette ring when you have a double or triple crank, but when you have just 11 gears, you really need to make sure that you can effectively use all of your gears. My 2 cents.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlkovacs View Post
    I don't know guys... The SRAM chain instructions tell you to put the chain around the largest cassette ring and the crank ring, and then add 2 links + powerlink. It's regardless of rear suspension. If you have a full suspension, the instructions have you compress the rear shock so that the rear axle is farthest from the BB (in many cases you won't need to do this because your rear axle is already furthest away from the BB, and when you compress the rear, the axle moves towards the BB). Why would they mention full suspension and then not say to add 4 links instead of 2 for handtails? I have a race full suspension frame so I initially compromised and went with adding 3 links instead of 4. When the chain was on the 10 tooth cassette ring (w/ 32T chainring), there was way too much slack in the chain. I had to go with 2 links + powerlink. You might get away with not using the smallest cassette ring when you have a double or triple crank, but when you have just 11 gears, you really need to make sure that you can effectively use all of your gears. My 2 cents.
    What does #4 at this SRAM link indicate? http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Db...and_chains.pdf

  17. #17
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    Depends on what you consider a link? I consider a complete link an outer link plus an inner link. Regardless, I went with exactly what the diagram illustrated and it works! Reading earlier posts, I thought that SRAM suggested doubling the links from 2 to 4 if you have a full suspension. epiphreddy...you're right...just do what #4 shows you. I read into things too much...

  18. #18
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    I think one link is just that, one piece of the chain whether inner or outer, it is ONE link. I will have to say that SRAM does not have good instructions at all with the XX1 kits. I have converted 2 bikes now and the actual paper instructions that come with the kits suck. And to find the instructions (such as the ones I posted) is no easy task. I have a friend that claims he too read wrap and add 2 links. I think 2 or 4 will work fine, but if you switch out chainrings, say 30 to 32 you might want to add 4 links to make sure your chain will be long enough for the swap depending on the course/race you might be doing.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    I think 2 or 4 will work fine, but if you switch out chainrings, say 30 to 32 you might want to add 4 links to make sure your chain will be long enough for the swap depending on the course/race you might be doing.
    ...Bump! Conversely, if I'm going 32 to 30, is that enough to warrant taking links out?
    - -benja- -

  20. #20
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    I wouldn't. Unless when you are in the 10 ring and the chain rubs itself I would not worry about it. Better too long than too short.

  21. #21
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    My Chain (arrived 7/28/2014) came with even weaker images/instructions.

    I went with the consensus here of +4 links (each "link/plate" counted as one, so in=1, and then the out=1) and on my Yeti SB95C it works perfect.

    In my 34x42 the cage is not pulled too far.

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