Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 28
  1. #1
    jlh
    jlh is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    5

    SRAM XX1 chain length

    anyone have experience with correct chain length for the xx1. the directions that came with the chain are brief and pretty much SUCK. the best i've come up with in my search is: "Proper chain sizing is critical to the performance of XX1. When sizing SRAM chains, the general rule of thumb is towrap the chain around the big ring and biggest rear cog (without routing the chain through the rear derailleur) and add two links. In the case of XX1, SRAM’s engineers recommend adding four links to accommodate the cassette’s wide range and to allow for a bit of chain growth, which is common in many full suspension designs and can affect shift accuracy if not taken into account."

    --so, is that 4 links + the powerlock (making it 5 extra links) or 3 links + powerlock (making it 4 extra links?

  2. #2
    Plays with tools
    Reputation: customfab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,315
    4 links total. The other thing to keep in mind is how often you'll be changing your front ring. If you think you might go from the smallest to the biggest chainring you might give it another link or two. Too many is better than not enough.

  3. #3
    jlh
    jlh is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    5
    thx for the info!

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    1
    What about XX1 Crank on a 1x10? Thoughts on the following: Pro Tips: Chain Length and Rear Derailleur Setup - YouTube

  5. #5
    JNG
    JNG is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    93
    SRAM's instructions that come with the XX1 parts do not mention 4 links. Do you still add four links if you have compressed your rear suspension to max travel while measuring the length?

    I did that and added what worked out to be 2.5 links and it shifts flawlessly. The problem I have is a creaking/clicking sound from my XX1 derailleur. This happens most noticeably when the chain is on the smaller cogs so I don't imagine it is because of a chain that is too short.

    Any thoughts?

  6. #6
    ban
    ban is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    1,317
    the instructions do mention 4 links.....
    SRAM XX1 chain length-image.jpg

  7. #7
    JNG
    JNG is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    93
    ban, according to Zinn And The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance a complete chain link "consists of an inner and outer pair of plates". By that definition, the instructions are showing 2 complete links not 4.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    13
    Is that not one link of overlap in the diagram, not two or four? It would be 1.5 with the powerlink included.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    Is there any particular chain pin that needs to be used when breaking/sizing the XX1 chain, or will a normal 9/10 speed pin work fine?

  10. #10
    JNG
    JNG is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    93
    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    Is there any particular chain pin that needs to be used when breaking/sizing the XX1 chain, or will a normal 9/10 speed pin work fine?
    The only thing you can use is a single use link made by SRAM that is specifically for their 11sp XX1 chain. I think it's called an 11speed SRAM Powerlock master link.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    Yes, but you have to cut your chain to the correct size/length using a chain tool before you connect with the master link you are referring to. I am asking if you need a narrower pin (than a normal 9 or 10 speed pin) in the chain tool when you break it?

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    80
    perfect thread, cutting first 1 x 11 chain as well. yeah the tech docs lack, mine looked like wrap chain big cog + chainring, not through derailleur, cut chain and add the power lock & presto. thanks for saving the headache
    Go that way really fast......if anything gets in your way turn.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    80
    is there a front and back of an xx1 chain?
    Go that way really fast......if anything gets in your way turn.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Db...and_chains.pdf

    That link shows what to do. If you are running a full suspension bike you should wrap around two big cogs (not through derailleur) and add FOUR (4) links.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    6
    I don't know guys... The SRAM chain instructions tell you to put the chain around the largest cassette ring and the crank ring, and then add 2 links + powerlink. It's regardless of rear suspension. If you have a full suspension, the instructions have you compress the rear shock so that the rear axle is farthest from the BB (in many cases you won't need to do this because your rear axle is already furthest away from the BB, and when you compress the rear, the axle moves towards the BB). Why would they mention full suspension and then not say to add 4 links instead of 2 for handtails? I have a race full suspension frame so I initially compromised and went with adding 3 links instead of 4. When the chain was on the 10 tooth cassette ring (w/ 32T chainring), there was way too much slack in the chain. I had to go with 2 links + powerlink. You might get away with not using the smallest cassette ring when you have a double or triple crank, but when you have just 11 gears, you really need to make sure that you can effectively use all of your gears. My 2 cents.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    Quote Originally Posted by mlkovacs View Post
    I don't know guys... The SRAM chain instructions tell you to put the chain around the largest cassette ring and the crank ring, and then add 2 links + powerlink. It's regardless of rear suspension. If you have a full suspension, the instructions have you compress the rear shock so that the rear axle is farthest from the BB (in many cases you won't need to do this because your rear axle is already furthest away from the BB, and when you compress the rear, the axle moves towards the BB). Why would they mention full suspension and then not say to add 4 links instead of 2 for handtails? I have a race full suspension frame so I initially compromised and went with adding 3 links instead of 4. When the chain was on the 10 tooth cassette ring (w/ 32T chainring), there was way too much slack in the chain. I had to go with 2 links + powerlink. You might get away with not using the smallest cassette ring when you have a double or triple crank, but when you have just 11 gears, you really need to make sure that you can effectively use all of your gears. My 2 cents.
    What does #4 at this SRAM link indicate? http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Db...and_chains.pdf

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    6
    Depends on what you consider a link? I consider a complete link an outer link plus an inner link. Regardless, I went with exactly what the diagram illustrated and it works! Reading earlier posts, I thought that SRAM suggested doubling the links from 2 to 4 if you have a full suspension. epiphreddy...you're right...just do what #4 shows you. I read into things too much...

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    I think one link is just that, one piece of the chain whether inner or outer, it is ONE link. I will have to say that SRAM does not have good instructions at all with the XX1 kits. I have converted 2 bikes now and the actual paper instructions that come with the kits suck. And to find the instructions (such as the ones I posted) is no easy task. I have a friend that claims he too read wrap and add 2 links. I think 2 or 4 will work fine, but if you switch out chainrings, say 30 to 32 you might want to add 4 links to make sure your chain will be long enough for the swap depending on the course/race you might be doing.

  19. #19
    Too Much Fun
    Reputation: benja55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    2,096
    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    I think 2 or 4 will work fine, but if you switch out chainrings, say 30 to 32 you might want to add 4 links to make sure your chain will be long enough for the swap depending on the course/race you might be doing.
    ...Bump! Conversely, if I'm going 32 to 30, is that enough to warrant taking links out?
    - -benja- -

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    I wouldn't. Unless when you are in the 10 ring and the chain rubs itself I would not worry about it. Better too long than too short.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2
    My Chain (arrived 7/28/2014) came with even weaker images/instructions.

    I went with the consensus here of +4 links (each "link/plate" counted as one, so in=1, and then the out=1) and on my Yeti SB95C it works perfect.

    In my 34x42 the cage is not pulled too far.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    109
    I followed SRAM tech instructions to add one inch when sizing. Works out to two link sections. (Hard tail )

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBBPnOFgCRI

    When I was trying to set up low end (small pulley) the cable guide was hitting the cage, thus interfering with full travel, not allowing chain to hit the lineup with small pulley.
    I *thought* that by removing another link it would allow the derailleur body to stay further forward, keeping the cage from hitting the cable guard. The guard I'm referring to is the little halfround last turn before the cable clamp screw. The derailleur is an XX1.
    Well yep it worked as I predicted and I was able to set the outboard travel . But now the chain is too short (tight) to get on the large sprocket. (Cage pivots as far forward as chain will let it).And the brand new chain is too short (trashed). I may patch the chain with an extra powerlink just to get the shifter working, but can someone check to see how close their cable guide comes to the cage when on the small sprocket ? My setup is all XX1, 32 tooth front, 10 X 42 rear.
    I can't see what else I may be doing wrong here.
    Help needed.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    Quote Originally Posted by DIABLO-V View Post
    I followed SRAM tech instructions to add one inch when sizing. Works out to two link sections. (Hard tail )

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBBPnOFgCRI

    When I was trying to set up low end (small pulley) the cable guide was hitting the cage, thus interfering with full travel, not allowing chain to hit the lineup with small pulley.
    I *thought* that by removing another link it would allow the derailleur body to stay further forward, keeping the cage from hitting the cable guard. The guard I'm referring to is the little halfround last turn before the cable clamp screw. The derailleur is an XX1.
    Well yep it worked as I predicted and I was able to set the outboard travel . But now the chain is too short (tight) to get on the large sprocket. (Cage pivots as far forward as chain will let it).And the brand new chain is too short (trashed). I may patch the chain with an extra powerlink just to get the shifter working, but can someone check to see how close their cable guide comes to the cage when on the small sprocket ? My setup is all XX1, 32 tooth front, 10 X 42 rear.
    I can't see what else I may be doing wrong here.
    Help needed.
    Did you ignore all previous discussion above with correct Sram links/tech info? The video you looked at is before XX1 was in production and is for 8/9/10 speed chains, NOT XX1. You cut your chain too short because you should have added 4 links as discussed above. Now you will need to add links back in with a new powerlink. Once you do that, you need to tighten your "B" screw on your derailleur and that should fix your issue I believe.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    109
    Thanks, I did not realize how old the video was. I did not have a spare 11 spd power link so I used a chain tool to push a hollow pin in place to add two links (one set of male and female, or one actual link, depending who you ask).
    This got me going again although I will not ride that chain. I'm just using it on the stand.
    BTW, I didn't ignore anything. I just went with the two link camp. SRAM says 4 links for FS bikes. They don't say anything about hard tails. Had I stuck with the original 2.5 links (two plus powerlink) and not tried my "experiment" I would have been fine. Adding the links back gets me in full shifting. The original problem still exists in that the cable guide contacts the cage at 10 tooth cog position (H) making the high stop inconsistent (mushy).
    The derailleur is brand new with springs that seem weak (or linkages stiff) combined with a new cable that springs out of its' groove when cable tension drops (10 t cog).
    I soaked the linkages down with Triflow and worked it up and down shifts. Much better and hits all gears but inconsistent shifts. My B stop was set to 12 mm (from large cog) but had to open it to about 14 to be happy at both ends of shift range. Once the stiff cable gets broken in I think it will improve.
    Again- the stiff cable , when relaxed, wants to spring out of its groove and when it does, it "pushes" against the cage, slightly interfering with the H stop. Once the cable is broken in I think small tension tweaks will cure the inconsistent shifts. Everything is brand new - chain, derailleur, trigger shift, crankset, all XX1.
    I removed new X1 parts from this bike and sold them, but I measured the chain before I shipped it - 54 1/4 ". Since the chain ring is same size as the X1 that I sold, when I get the new chain on hand I will measure and know if that 54 1/4 amounts to 4 links added or not, but whatever it is, that's what the TREK factory sized the chain to.
    I will post a photo tomorrow showing the cable /guide against the cage as I tried to describe Thanks

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    740
    It is confusing and SRAM should do a better job of explaining this. I still say this link says 4 links (a link being pin to pin).

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Db...and_chains.pdf

    What the instructions say regarding FS frames is: To size the chain,
    compress the rear shock to the point in the travel where the rear axle is farthest from the bottom bracket. What they don't say is to then add 4 links. Something else they don't say is you have to make sure to have 2 male ends showing to connect the power link to. This might end up being more or less than 4 links once you add in the power link. And then if it is too long, then you will have to remove 2 links to get the next male connector.
    If your cable and housing is tensioned properly it should not be popping out of the derailleur housing hole. Have you got a derailleur end cap on the housing?

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Help with chain-ring size vs. chain length...
    By firstRWD in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-20-2013, 10:33 PM
  2. 2012 S-Works Epic proper chain length. (new chain)
    By EpicFSR in forum Specialized
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-26-2012, 02:53 AM
  3. Sram XO Chain length problem
    By tucsonrider in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-25-2012, 11:26 AM
  4. Sram 2x10 recommended chain length feels a little short
    By Procter in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-12-2012, 12:48 PM
  5. Old components on new frame .2" shorter chain stay - chain length reduction?
    By DPDISXR4Ti in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 12-14-2011, 03:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •