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SRAM type 2 derailleur issues

62K views 145 replies 70 participants last post by  RS VR6 
#1 ·
Hey All:

I've been running an X9 type 2 derailleur for around 3 weeks now. Everything you've read is true: chain slap is nearly eliminated and the frequency of dropped chains is reduced (at least compared to a SRAM xx 2x10 rear der.) BUT, I've developed a strange and irritating issue:

The clutch seems to have fallen out of tune or something. It takes a significant force to overcome the clutch at this point. When the cage finally moves forward I hear a fairly loud click. I hear this click every time I cycle past 40% travel in the rear. I can also feel this force in the suspension travel. I've been riding primarily dusty terrain. I was caught in a biblical rain storm about a week ago. Anyone else discover similar issues? Is the clutch adjustable (i don't think so)?
 
#2 ·
It seems you aren't the only one having issues with the type 2 derailleur! I had issues with my clutch being way to tight keeping the bike from shifting correctly. For the time being i think the type 2 is a flop. i sent mine in for warranty. I am now using Shimano Zee derailleur and saint shifter. The clutch is not adjustable.

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...ks/x-9-type-2-derailleur-problems-807541.html
 
#4 ·
I would wait. My bike shifts fine and it is much quieter but the very slight hesitation I feel/hear in my suspension travel is really troubling. I think the source of my issues may have been a really intense rainstorm. I spoke to SRAM today. They are looking into it. Also of note - I'm not an anal mtb owner. I ride a lot and I do an average amount of maintenance. I'm accustomed to some occasional noise from my ride.
 
#5 ·
Damn, I'm really interested in one of these derailleurs. Amazon has em for a decent price too. Prime shipping, no tax - was just bout to pull the trig when I decided i should do a few searches first. Guess this is the price of being an early adopter. Hope they work out these issues quick!
 
#8 ·
joe_soma:

Thanks for the BikeRadar link!

My type 2 is having the exact same issue after 2 weeks in dusty condistions. It started out with a slight knock. Then it progressed to a louder knock and could be felt everytime the suspension moved. I took the shock off and cycled the suspension... it didn't matter which gear or at what point the susp was cycled. On initial up movement, every gear produced the knock/ clunk.

SRAM customer service had very different answers from Friday to today... The first rep I talked to said it was obviously an issue. The rep today would only discuss through a bike shop mechanic and they tried to imply that the new derailleur has a different cage length capacity than previous SRAM derailleurs.

Even worse: I have XTR Shadow Plus in its place now that performs flawlessly! I like the SRAM lever action, but the clutch does not seem ready for "primetime." Early adoption strikes again :madman:
 
#9 ·
Hmm.... I was ready to get the X9 also as I have X7 triggers already. Can I still get an XT Shadow and run the X7 triggers?... or will I need to go all Shimano? Looking to just set it up as a 1 x 10 for the rear using the short cage. 34T Bling ring with a 12/36 cassette. :madman:
 
#14 ·
Glad I found this thread too. I was waiting for the silver/black colorways on the Type 2 (due Nov FYI) and now I'm glad I waited.

I've come to really love the feel of SRAM XO shifting but really would like to go roller clutch rear der. Hope they get this sorted ASAP. It's clear Shimano put the work in on Shadow Plus. Everyone raves about it.
 
#15 ·
Yup, just confirming after having more time to look into it. I can definitely feel the clutch threshold through my pedals when the rear suspension activates. Depending on which gear I am in on the cassette (due to chain tension) I can feel the notch at a varying point during the suspension travel. Sometimes I don't feel it at all, if the suspension isn't moving enough to reach the threshold to activate the clutch. Nonetheless I do notice it on occasion. Under riding conditions it is harder to detect, as truthfully I am paying more attention to the trail - but when I do notice while riding, it does kind of irk me. Hoping the clutch breaks in a bit and it becomes less noticeable. I don't want to outlay any cash to swap derailleurs or anything so at this point, I'm just saying F- it and riding the bike.
 
#16 ·
I just installed a medium cage type 2 X0 in place of a medium cage XX. 2x10 setup. Setting proper chain length for the small chain ring and small cog results in inadequate chain length for large chain ring and large cassette cogs. With 10 as the largest, when I shift to 8, the chain jams because there is not enough slack chain to lift onto the cog. If I then add a link, when I run small chain ring and small (#1) cassette cog, the chain/upper jockey wheel contacts moving chain. There is no chain length that works! How is this possible?
 
#20 ·
I also have the knocking noise (X0 Type 2, medium cage). Exactly as joe_soma described: it's quite audible once you hit about 40% rear travel.
I spoke with Sram today and (after initially claiming to be unaware of the problem) the rep said it is only noise and a) does not affect the suspension and b) will not harm the derailleur.
Anyone have any further thoughts?
 
#21 ·
I have some thoughts, though my thoughts don't usually amount to much. I am curious however, there seem to be no reports of this behavior affecting users of Shimano's clutch system so I wonder what is different mechanically about them. I know shimano's is user-adjustable to an extent but beyond that haven't seen one or felt one even.
 
#23 ·
My one month old Type2 medium cage is clicking now! You cant test yours by siting on your bike and and bouncing up and down to compress the rear suspension. I tried lubing all the pivot points on the Type2, no luck. Mine was initially quiet, so it's gotta be related to dusty trail riding, washing the bike or wear on the sealed clutch mechanism, Sram has got to be aware of this issue.
 
#28 ·
My knocking/creaking issues were because the chain was too short. It seems that these derailleurs are more sensitive to a shorter chain. My bike (Trek Remedy) has lots of chain growth and I was measuring chain length without having the suspension compressed. 2 chain links extra at full compression ends up being almost 5 chain links extra at static height.

Now that I've got proper chain length it's quiet as a mouse and has amazing shifting.

-Tom
 
#32 ·
My knocking/creaking issues were because the chain was too short. It seems that these derailleurs are more sensitive to a shorter chain. My bike (Trek Remedy) has lots of chain growth and I was measuring chain length without having the suspension compressed. 2 chain links extra at full compression ends up being almost 5 chain links extra at static height.

Now that I've got proper chain length it's quiet as a mouse and has amazing shifting.

-Tom
Same here. My x9 type 2 was knocking on my spider 29 and adding a set of links cured the knock issue. It seems the derailleur just doesn't like the cage that far forward in the stroke.
 
#29 ·
FWIW, I'm running a X9 type II, running for just over a month & have zero noise or issues. Running a mid cage with a 36t cog, no problems.

Actually, found this thread b/c I was going to start a thread about how great I thought the Type II is . . . I personally really, really like this RD!! Shifting is extremely smooth & the difference in noise is just profound. The only way I can get noise out of the chain is when you hit a bunch of stutter bumps or decent-sized roots at speed. Jumps, drops, etc are all silent. I will note that I've dropped the chain off the middle ring (I have a 2/10 setup) several times, so the Type II does not seem to work as advertised in that respect. The button that locks the cage forward for wheel changes needs to be on every RD made. Great idea.

As to b-screw setup, I use the following, extremely scientific & mechanically sound adjustment method: tweak the cage really close to the cogs & adjust it outward slowly until it no longer hangs up during shifts to bigger cogs.

As some others have mentioned, I added a link to my chain & it seems a bit happier. The link was added due to a trail repair to a broken chain, not because of any problem I was having. The broken chain was my own fault, as I had to add a link to the chain after I cut it b/c forgot that I went from a 34 big cog to a 36, which weakens the rivet on the added link. I didn't have a replacement rivet, so just re-used the one I knocked out.

YMMV, but my experience has been very positive.
 
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